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This is some smooth, fast, defined bass, I would have liked something with sustained low bass or organ to see if there was any cone flap or even Tracey Chapman Crossroads, there are several tracks on this that will test a subwoofer
@@staceymangham Due to the sensitivity and size of the driver there is very little movement of the driver for the bass created. I’d say at listening levels with bass pumping the drive is moving 1/8” or less. Maybe getting close to 1/4”…. No baffle slap to be found.
Yea the Forte II are really only effective down to about 45-50hz, shut the sub down and the room thins out immensely. I’ll do a comparison video soon. Good call.
Ok you sold me on this brother for the open baffle subwoofer I gave a crown amp I can us what woofers you recommend and do you recommend the same cabinet design with that slot loading ?
The 18" bass driver specs are on the La Dolce Audio website. Also our discord is full of frequency sweeps on the 18" bass driver. Basically pretty flat down to 27 hz
Damn I just upgraded my sub..... I would have totally went this direction and built 2 for the same price I got 1. Damn. These with a Dayton 500w dsp plate amp or crown for dual would be awesome
@@mcjonner There’s always next time!! PS, these bass drivers are 97db sensitive you’ll get all that bass off a little 50 watt amp. 500 would instantly destroy the drivers if turned up. 😂😂😂👌
@@abxaudiophiles"500 would instantly destroy the drivers if turned up", From the website "500w RMS power handling", so... this is not an accurate spec?
I assume you mean Quad electrostatics, the only way you will get cone movement quicker is buy using multiple high efficiency so pro drivers for the low end bass and using DSP. but I don't think you have this correct, the lower frequencies don't need to have "quick" drivers as you say. The most important factor for bass is the volume of air moved and the motor BL. So air volume to BL ratio. Bassically (excuse the pun) you want to move vast amounts of air the lower the frequency, but you need motor strength to do it. Your electrostatics will increase in efficiency as the frequency goes up, because you will be moving less air, hence why you don't turn them up, but if you cross to a sub you will find the volume knob being able to go higher with you electrostatics.
@@shanerorko8076 Have you heard of the moving magnet subs used in pro gear? Produce 5 to 30 Hz and can handle lots of power since the coils are mounted on the speaker frame which act as heat sinks. No flex wires to fail as well. Not very efficient, but would do great for pro sound stuff. I think what people perceive as quick bass is the attack and decay. Especially the attack, the first pressure wave of air that hits you.
@@zulumax1 I have seen those subs, they are for very big areas. for a smaller room, eight six inch speakers or twelve six inch speakers could pressurize the room sufficiently. But low frequency requires slow coupling to the air as the air can't couple any faster at the low frequencies. So as long as you have enough cone area, you then require cone speed which, increases in the total BL will help.
Try Bela Fleck & Edgar Meyer in "Music For Two". I run Goldwood 1858s in H-Frames in the bottoms of my OB two ways and that album never fails to impress friends and family with the bass.
@@mikerick6955 - Literally covered what they were crossed over at, and It is a damn plate amp with variable crossover and phase.. Make it what ya want.. Not sure what else to say
@@abxaudiophiles I’m sorry but you didn’t. Maybe it got edited out or something but I’ve watched the video three times and there’s no mention of crossover level or high passing the Fortes. Don’t get me wrong, I’m intrigued by OB mains and subs, just curious same as @jungtarcph
Please, this is not slotloading. Its just restriction of the areal. Have been done in all hornspeakers for more than 60 years to get the horn to get a little lower. But sound good though😆
@@abxaudiophiles I may be wacked, but I kinda like slightly hollow and tame sounding speakers/systems. O-B speakers just might give that old fashion sound I've been looking for. I wish I had the funds to come out and listen to the system you and your friends have built. Sux to be bankrupt!
Open baffle implies the front and rear of the driver is open and allow propagation of the sound waves. Slot loading the front of the baffle is essentially a mechanical inductor that adjusts the QTs, sensitivity, and bass response slightly. Think of it as more of a mechanical crossover vs a bunch of capacitors and resistors. It’s 100% an open baffle.
@@abxaudiophileswhat you mention here is a big point of interest for me! I'll be really grateful if you'd share some experience. The slot definitely affects speaker parameters but how? I assume it slightly lowers the fs, rises qts, lowers sensitivity a bit (thats a question since we deal with front-back cancellation). Also I think it alters directivity pattern making it somewhat cardioidish. Am I right?
I’ve watched this video several times now and nowhere is it mentioned where the sub crossover is at or if you’re high passing the Fortes, which themselves are very capable down to 38hz and even lower with room gain.
All good. I’ve ran REW sweeps on the Forte II. Effective bass down to 50hz really and at 45hz it’s dropping off way fast. The sub woofer is pretty flat down to 30hz and about -3db at 27hz. If you were in room with me and we shut the sub off, you would say WTH… 😆😆👌👌
@@abxaudiophiles I got my HD25's on, and I get deeper bass from this recording of the 3.5" Fostex speaker, than from this subwoofer. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE--U3XW6TV9zI.htmlsi=CQvZEIY1EGDbu6b-&t=82
@@juststuff5216 TL Speakers. Small room. Mic in a bass heavy area. That bass sounds not as clean, quick, or textured. But yea, TL speakers can do good bass, I just built a pair of Neil Blanchard Designs MLTL-6 and they're great!
@@juststuff5216 - The bass in the clip you shared sounds bloated and boomy. Sounds over done for that room and space. When I refer to quick, textured and detailed, here is what I am referring too - ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-W_sfI1IVnKk.html
@@JensenTech - Sure. There’s a lot on our website and links to where we get our drivers. It basically just the lower section of our DIY baffles. Think of our big baffle and just cut the speaker in half. Same slot loading etc… Then we just screwed a plate amp to the side and rocked out. 👌👌 But yea. Check the ABX Website as well as La Dolce Audio. Lots of shared stuff there. Our Discord houses it all as well. Cheers. 🍻
How do you technically justify blocking most of the element regd. the sub? I goes against the piston "setup" all normal elements are made to perform. Also with no backbox to increase pressure forward I am assuming this is very hard to drive to any meaningful high level.
There's another bass driver I found that would be good for this use, I don't know if they're available in the US, but I can get them here in Australia cheaper than the LaDolce ones. SB Audience - 18" BIANCO Subwoofer - BIANCO-18SW450
Any measurements or guesstimate as to the in room response ? My room can do/fit a half 30 Hz sound wave I expect that you are getting in that range and it sounds great on low Fi RU-vid
Why not get some cheap but good crown XLS power amps? As they are great sounding/reliable power amps and perfect for sub woofers and highly adjustable?
@@humanitech We do that too. Running the new 2502 currently. Put the plate amps are simple, full range crossover and variable phase. I like the versatility of the plate amps. Both great options tho.
