For Sony users. The Jupiter 12 works great on Sony mirrorless cameras since the size of the adapter puts the protruding rear element far enough away from the sensor to not damage it. Looks pretty nice on an a7x body.
Great review I have the Jupiter 12 on my fuji xe-3 which is mirror less. I have read everywhere that it wouldn’t fit, but I discovered when trying it in a shop that it fit perfectly on my adapter. However I have a love hate relationship with it. I’d say it’s rather limited in use. Useless for landscape mainly due to the blurry edges, but for indoors photos it is sharp in the center and bags of character!
Hey Judith, thanks for stopping by! Good to hear it work on your Fuji, yes it is more of a character lens I think. I will try to do a full review at some point. Your edges might be soft because of the camera. (It's a RF lens as you know so probably works better on the Leica M or vintage screw mount cameras). I'll try to make a video thi spring.
I am nuts about my 35mm f2.4 asph summarit,i adore its rendition of skin tones and its colours in landscape and night city lights pics[on my m262]..its also small,,,i never get bored of it,,,great passionate video by the way.
Hi Matt you can mod indy 22 and Fed 5 cm etc for close focus on mirrorless by removing the short infinity stop and putting the tall close focus post there instead - also try the m42 indy 50-2 -- it goes to .65 m
@@MattOsborne-MrLeicaCom Very easy -- just use the correct driver -- remove both stops and put the tall one where the short infinity stop was -- store the short one safely if you want to return it to stock ...
@@MattOsborne-MrLeicaCom Here you go -- let me know if you succeed with your indy 22 -- have fun ! ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-5zMhJtkqMK8.html&lc=UgxNNi7lfZuJiYwvKvR4AaABAg
Hi Matt, Slowly working my way through the 34 Leica orientated videos you have. Like you I have a lot of Leica and other MF lenses. I think a great idea for a video would be to tip you top 5 lenses (with photos) that give a very distinct character. i.e. shooting with a pre ASPH 50 Lux gives a beautiful spherical background which is hard to do in post. Or a 90mm Summicron Version 1 or 2 that gives sharp frames when stopped down to 5.6 but wide open it give the smoothest Bokeh around. Basically because you have such amazing lenses and you are a top photographer, I am sure people would love the opportunity to see the difference between some of your favourite lenses. Plus I expect you already have the photos ; ) Thanks for the videos
Thanks Chris, great suggestion. I need to do my second lens series first then once all done then i'll do a round up of the best of the best.. I say this partly as i'm still testing some of them! :) Thanks for checking out the videos. I'm now on Patreon too if you want to see more videos (haha if you have time to watch any more!) mrleica.com/mrleica-patreon/ (different video style on there - more on location/ BTS /uncut 'real' footage.. hopefully a bit more fun and entertaining). :)
Matt. Have several m39 Leica lenses. Could I use them on a Lumix G3 with the correct adapter ? Any guidance would be much appreciated. Love all your videos - so interesting. Cheers, Paul.
Hi Matt, new to all of this! just got a m6 payed a lot for A1 condition £3k and it does look in top con! my thinking was, i'd rather pay for one that looks brand new than say £2500 and looks well used, and wear the camera in myself! Took a week or so looking for a lens, but after watching your vid on the canon ltm lenses i picked the 50mm f1,4 got a clean one from Japan, took a while to get an adaptor, as everywhere seemed to be out of stock, or would have to wait weeks/months to get from China, anyway ended up cancelling the fotodiox from amazon, as just failed to hit delivery time and couldn't let me know when it would be delivered! Found one on the Gobe site in stock now so got 3 of them 28mm 35mm and 50mm the canon 50mm f1,4 works great with the adaptor on the M6! but i also ordered, a industar 50mm f3,5 on ebay got it yesterday, nice clean lens with case, caps, receipt from 1968, only this lens, does not fit correctly, with the adaptor! Very close, but just will not tighten fully! Seems the the focus tab, is hitting the lens release button, before the screw mount has chance to fully tighten on the m6, leaving it slightly loose? And the lens wont reach infinity stopping just short as it hits the release button, on cam before it can? So have you ever had this happen to you ? Or is there an adaptor that works better with this industar lens? Hahaha long winded for a short question Matt, but just wanted to explain, cheers, Paul
Thanks Paul! Ha my first thought is contact me via my Patreon platform if you need help before more purchases! Onto your question yes the little Industar clones will hit many Leica bodies. I need to do video on this lens still so I will point it out there too. You need the Leica version of same lens and it fits.
@@MattOsborne-MrLeicaCom Thanks Matt for replying 👍 I’ll rethink on getting a Leica 50mm, and may try to sell this lens then or maybe pickup a Leica iii body at sometime, cheers Matt keep up your good work 👍
Really enjoying your videos Matt. The Industar 22 50mm has no filter thread, there are push-on filters made for it, there is also a Bakelite (early plastic) lens hood, but they do not stay on well so don’t buy one. I tried a side by side with a borrowed Elmar, and the results were different, but no clear winner.
Thank you Howard and for explaining about the filters. That is more like my vintage Voigtlander folding cameras with the push on filter. I use the Elmar hood on the Industar and it works great but thanks for the detail shared. I still need to do my side by side test but too many other things currently distracting me (other nice cameras and lenses!) :) I will when I get chance even if as you say they are similar. Thanks.
There is now a company in the UK that will adjust the J-3 to the Leica RF spec- Skyllaney. They can also modify the threads of the Nikkor 5cm F2 to RF couple down to 0.65m or so. The trick is to put a notch in the threads of the mount so the RF follower of the camera keeps contact with the cam of the lens. The Nikkor is chrome over brass, and is a heavy lens. The Nikkor 5cm F1.5 is about the same size, but very rare. It and the Nikkor 5cm F1.4 also focus to 18".
Thank you Brian! Great information and i'm happy my video found you. Yes I thought after maybe brass build. Both my M3s are modified to 0.7m so interesting stuff about getting the lenses modified. I have enough lenses to keep me busy for now but when i'm lusting after the f2 to use for film I may have to follow that up. Thanks for commenting. Matt
Thanks for another great video! Did you ever make a second part to this video? I can't seem to find it. Another nice 35 mm ltm lens is the Canon 35mm f2.
Thanks, I’m slowly trying to review each lens individually. Yes I had the Canon 35mm 1.8 (see video), almost bought f2, had f2.8 but then replaced them all with the 35mm Ultron M 1.7 (see video)
Hi Mr. Leica. Great Video indeed. i find the industar 22 50mm f3.5 cannot be focus to infinity when use it in M mount with LTM adapter. Coz the adapter are overlap and block the lock. does your adapter have the same issue neither?
Hey Neo, thanks! See my Sharpest 50mm video (showing LTMs). I show multiple similar lenses. Yes agree some of these lenses hit the adapter but you can try mounting either at infinity or at 1m and it sometimes lets it work OK.
When you turn your Nikkor-h.c. 5cm lens focus all the way down to 1 meter, turn the aperture ring 1 stop to the next(e.g. from 2 to 2.8), you will be able to turn the focus ring down to 1.5ft. Check it out😉
You should try the 3 Nikkor ltm jewels: 35mm f1.8 (very hard to find and expensive though, but by far the best 35mm for any rangefinder; should be amazing for portraits on the CL as it becomes a 50mm); 5cm f1.4 LTM (not cheap but even crazier bokeh than the f2 and it focuses to 0.5m too); 85mm (I haven’t tried it yet but have read amazing reviews; fairly heavy lens though). Another LTM lens that I love (also available on M mount) is the Summicron Collapsible f2, which is both sharp/soft with a bokeh way more interesting than all other Summicrons that followed it.
Thanks Daniel! Great info! I saw the Nikkor 28mm W during my research. Nice but super expensive!! The 35mm sounds great but I’ve not even seen one listed yet so might need to be patient and may get lucky one day! Nikon 85mm f2 LTM I’ve owned but returned as wasn’t calibrated to my cameras (and apparently it’s often the case - repair guy said). Nice lens otherwise. I skipped the Summicron 5cm collapsible as have the Summitar and it’s a little soft for me then have the Elmar 5cm collapsible which is beautifully made and sharper/ more modern design, then the Elmar 3.5 as you probably saw for the ultimate small lens setup on a RF. I need to edit and post part 2 which is a bit off topic as not LTM (so I’m guessing won’t be popular but we’ll see) then I think next up is Voigtlanders! :) (LTM) Thanks again for writing. Have a great weekend. More soon!
Thanks Daniel! Great info! I saw the Nikkor 28mm W during my research. Nice but super expensive!! The 35mm sounds great but I’ve not even seen one listed yet so might need to be patient and may get lucky one day! Nikon 85mm f2 LTM I’ve owned but returned as wasn’t calibrated to my cameras (and apparently it’s often the case - repair guy said). Nice lens otherwise. I skipped the Summicron 5cm collapsible as have the Summitar and it’s a little soft for me then have the Elmar 5cm collapsible which is beautifully made and sharper/ more modern design, then the Elmar 3.5 as you probably saw for the ultimate small lens setup on a RF. I need to edit and post part 2 which is a bit off topic as not LTM (so I’m guessing won’t be popular but we’ll see) then I think next up is Voigtlanders! :) (LTM) Thanks again for writing. Have a great weekend. More soon!
Hi Matt, Please can you ask the Sony user if he adapted the Jupiter-12. Some have an extra "thin washer" added to give that extra clearance. Looking for an inexpensive 35mm lens for street photography after lock down. Always nervous about using the Industar-22 and the Leica Elmar on my Sony A7 and collapsing the lens onto the sensor. Was out this evening in Castle Donington with my 86 year old Elmar (50mm f/3.5) photographing some daisies versus a modern Olympus 25mm lens on a E-M1. Rangefinder minimum distance of 1m is always a big limitation for nature shots though the Elmar has a lovely fall off.
Hi Martin (again!) :) He didn't mention that the lens was adapted so i'm assuming it fits. Check the comments you will see what he said and maybe reach out to him for an exact answer. It's becoming quite a little friendly community here with lots of like minded people so i'm sure he will be very happy to help. Yes I can appreciate you being nervous with the old Elmar. Good to hear you are using it though. I will use mine more as soon as I can travel again. For alternative 35mm lenses see my small lenses video ( ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-aPHKUdKZMl0.html ) or the Canon LTM lens video (but that is more expensive).
If you have full frame it will not hit sensor. Flange distance with adapter should be the same as on any other film camera of that sort. If it doesn't hit film it will not hit sensor. Maybe m43 has shorter flange distance but anyway full frame lens to work properly must be at the same distance from any light sensitive surface (sensor or film). It could only hit something else inside camera,bit it can't reach sensor.
Do the LTM Jupiters and Industars really not focus properly on a Leica? I thought their intention, at least, was for FEDs and Zorkis (the post-war ones at least) to have the same flange distance as a Leica. I interchange Leica, Nikkor, and soviet lenses on my Zorki 1 and they all work fine. I calibrated the camera using a Leica Elmar (because the distance markings on the Soviet lenses are sloppy). And, thanks, great videos!!!
Hi Jeff, I know some say that Soviet stuff is a different flange distance but I’ve never noticed a difference using them on a Leicas. I posted on the Jupiter 8 on Patreon today actually! Nice lens.
Hi Matt, Note the Industar-22 will not fit a Leica IIIa and I assume any Barnack Leica with the slow shutter dial at the front. The reason is the focus lever clashes with the slow shutter dial such that you cannot properly screw the lens to the body of the Leica IIIa. It will of course fit the Leica II which doesn't have the slow shutter dial.
Hi Martin, ah this is interesting stuff!! Thanks! I must admit i've not tried the I-22 on my iiia yet but I just assumed it would fit (if I wanted to cross test for example). I was intrigued so went to check and yes it almost fits then as it screws in more it clashes. That makes sense for the Leica ii versions with the patch. Thank you for sharing. This channel is attracting some good knowledge. I'm learning too! More vintage Leica / LTM stuff in the pipeline including my 10x LTM lens shoot out test (See community board if you're already subscribed for preview).
Hi Matt, Great review, very informative. I just got an INDUSTAR N-61 53mm f2.8 lens. It is a M39 screw mount. I got it for my Leica III, but after a couple of turns it becomes very difficult to tighten it and it does not screw all the way in. have you experienced it before?
Very good video. But, just checking, on a Leica CL, we must use the M to L adapter (already got one), and a M39 to L/M adapter OR a Viltrox Speedbooster ( which do you recommend ? sorry but there are so many...).
Is it a problem if the focus indicator point is not on the top of the lens when the lens (ltm lens) is adapted to a M mount? My lens is slightly of to the right.
In my experience no, it just depends on the thread of the adapter. Some adapters you can move to align the writing (I did for my Nikon F- LTM) but not possible with the simple M-LTM.
Hello Matt , since I discover it I subscribed and I like your blog and your videos ! Imay I ask you a question about the Jupiter 12 35mm f2.8 : is it possible to shoot with it with Leica M6 ? M3 ? M10 ? thanks . daniel from france
danielbdbe hi Daniel, great to have you on board! Yes happy to help. Yes the J12 fits M bodies and someone tell me some Sony too. It doesn’t fit M43 or CL cameras I have.
hello Matt , another good video ! bought the Industar-22 lens and also the adapter from ebay but the Infinity lock button of the lens when mounted on the adapter is touching the lens release of the camera and then the lens ( on the adpater ) can not be fully screwed on the lens ? I do not know if issue is from the adapter or from the lens ? any idea ? thks daniel
HI Matt, me again. Your videos are really great, but they open up a pandora's box of questions for me as well! Why did you go for the Jupiter 3 over the Jupiter 8 (50mm?) Did you consider any differences between these lenses?
Great video Matt! Do you know if the Jupiter 12 will work with a Canon P rangefinder? I've been wanting to find a more affordable 35mm option to try with my Canon P but I am concerned about that rear element.
Thanks. Yes it should fit all film cameras.. but I’ve not tried his exact setup. Search the combo on Google for example photos. If you find you know it works.
Hi there, I use a J-12 on my canon P and it fits you just need to take your time mounting it. I find the canon P is better suited for a 50mm lens though because the 35mm frame lines are a little too wide. It is a nice combination though, the canon p has a great viewfinder and rangefinder.
Thanks.. no I think maybe I was lucky. Old lenses are less risky to buy than vintage cameras (I've bought a few dud cameras). Performance of old lenses can vary a lot so better to buy with original camera as often cheaper and might be an excellent copy of the lens. If just a lens sale someone maybe have bought 3 of the same lens then get the best and sold the worse performers. Old lenses can have scratches but if don't point at the sun it doesn't make much difference to the final image. My Jupiter-3 is quite marked but I still love it. Matt
I'm considering buying a 50mm Jupiter 8 lens for Canon rangefinder that I recently bought. Is there any truth that some Soviet lenses are radioactive? Would a Jupiter lens be radioactive?
I have the J8.. great lens, I will do a review when I get chance. Some old lenses use glass which is slightly radioactive but nothing to worry about. I have a massive large format Kodak lens which is 100x worse and still no issues for me.
It's japanese rather than Soviet lenses from the '40s to '70s that are slightly radioactive from the use of Thorium as a component of the glass used. See camerapedia.fandom.com/wiki/Radioactive_lenses#:~:text=Radioactivity%20in%20lanthanum%20containing%20lenses,in%20the%20optical%20glass%20mix.&text=It%20is%20the%20glass%20itself,centers%20in%20the%20glass%20matrix.
Matt, I have been a Leica devotee since 1956. Only recently have I noted that a category of Leica cameras and lenses is referred to as "mirrorless." Why has Leica waited for over 50 years to introduce this term? Please explain!
Nice job. As an aside the Nikkor 50/2 HC ltm and Nikkor 50/1.4 SC are "improved" clones of the prewar Zeiss 50/2 and 50/1.5 Sonnars, respectively. The Nikkor 50/1.4 also focuses to .5 meters like its little brother. Both were commonly provided as standard lens on Nicca Leica clones. The Jupiter-3 is also a clone of the Zeiss 50/1.5 Sonnar. The Soviets took the designs as war reparations, Nikkon Kogaku just stole the designs. The Jupiter-12 is also a prewar Zeiss clone (35/2.8 Biogon) and does mount on at least one mirrorless camera, the old Ricoh GXR with M module.
Thanks Adam, I've since bought some of the older lenses... I have the Nikkor 50/1.4 and 50/1.5 Sonnar .. to come in future videos! :) Mine don't focus close though as not LTM mount. (I have the Nikkor 50/1.4 SC in Nikon F mount too but it's nothing special). I have a real 35mm Biogon too and from initial tests that looks very special.. (Though I have nothing against the mentioned clones either) :)
It's often written that Japan accessed Germany’s lens patents after WWII when the allies made them public. However, the actual origin occurred 5 years earlier when Japan and German signed the Axis pact in 1940. At that time Adolf Hitler transferred rights to nearly all patent rights from Carl Zeiss to the Japanese government to assist their military. In January 1946, Nikkon was one of the 17 founding members of the Optical and Precision Instruments Manufacturers' Association (光学精機工業協会, Kōgaku Seiki Kōgyō Kyōkai). The association used the German lens patents given to them by Germany to develop lenses for the Japanese industry. The Nikon Historical Society Journal number 58 (NHS-58 Journal) relates the interesting story of the origin of many fast lenses developed in Japan following WWII. The Japanese government request the top five lens manufactures in Japan at that tome to combine their technical expertise to create an ultra-fast lens of f/0.65 or f/0.85 for use in X-ray machines. The five optical companies were: Fuji Kogaku (Fujica/Fuji), Konica Kogaku, Minolta Kogaku, Nippon Kogaku (Nikon), and Ohara Kogaku. Two results from this government scheme were the Konica Hexanon 60mm f/1.2, and the Nikkor-N 1:1.1 f=5cm, both based on the Xenon design. As an example, in 1930 A.W. Tronnier patented an improvement of the Xenon design with three attached rear lenses, an 8 element f/1.2 lens (spherical, chromatic and astigmatic corrected). After WWII the design was used by Saburo Murakami at Nikon as the basis for the Nikkor-N 1:1.1 f=5cm with 8 elements in 6 groups. When it was released in 1956 it was the World’s fastest 35mm lens. As far as the Nikkor 5cm f2 in their brochure Nikkor openly stated it is "a recomputation of a proven design". So their was no theft, or copying of Zeiss designs because Nikkor had every legal right to use the Zeiss patents after the War.
Thanks for showing those. I had one Russian L39 wide angle lens - the Jupiter-12 lens, 35/2.8. I likely got a lemon sent from Russia. Horrible performer copy on my Leica IIIc. Likely decentered, never sharp in the corners even when stopped down. Also record holder for the shortest time I used and kept a purchased lens: two weeks. But it can be adapted to Sony A7 camera without hitting the sensor. But the image quality was very poor, too.
Hi Martin! Thanks for your wisdom again and sorry to hear you got a bad copy. Thanks for mentioning about the Sony A7.. I will note it for others to see. (I've not tried the J12 on the iii yet due to lockdown but it works on a Bessa L ok).
"Tessar is crazy sharp" Achtung, Tessar ist wahsinnig sharf. Tessar, sharp as an eagle's eye. The Industar is a kind of russian Lada ccompared to an italian Fiat, Am I right, thinking modern cars are dull? So are lenses as well? For a trip on a sunday afternoon we choose an old Lada 1200 or the oil leaking Ausin Seven. What is happenig in photograpy today? A lot of retired old people ( with old eyes) start buying Leicas and because they do not know what is a beauiful photo they buy russion (junk) lenes and introduced themselves as ARTISTS .......... Was it Brian Duffy or David Bailey saying people wih expensive cameras like a Leica or a Hassellad are Wankers? I shoot with Hasselblad since 1965 I am an old Whiner. Still have fun with my M3 & 500 C Matt, how about LF photogaphy?
Thanks Jaco! I used to drive a Lada! Not joking, 4-5yrs I think. A cool one! 4x4 Niva Cossack version - Google it. No LF yet. I’m Going more towards AF Nikons currently as want the spore and 1 handed operation for fast model work.
My comments wasn't clear. Example is a lens that was made during RF era is not calibrated for a rangefinder. The Jupiter lens protruding into the camera so it cant be used on Mirrorless but you use it on a Mirrorless. Maybe I am misunderstanding and need to re-watch
