Hey Benj! Thanks for stopping by. Yes perfect lens for that! (I tried to reach out to you a while ago but you may have missed it. We should collab! DM me if you fancy it @MrLeicaCom)
It really is the best 35mm M mount lens out there for me. Regardless of price. It's simply got all the sharpness you need and the character you want. The build is incredible. I wanted to buy the Leica 35 f2 asph v2 summicron but because of this lens I couldn't justify it.
Waiting for your review of this amazing lens, Alex! 😉 Not to discredit your review, Matt. Just want to hear the street photography side review of this lens. Cheers!
Summicron 35mm asph v1 is the best by far for street photography.1)Has focus tab witch is very important for muscle memory and extremely quick street shooting,even at night.2)Has very sort focus distance,work perfect with focus tab.3)Has close distance 0,7 works perfect with Leica (the tab stops were the focus distance stops witch is very important).4)Has a lot less flare (works much much better with opposite the sun.5)Has much better micro contrast (perfect for b&w).6) Has much better built quality (especially the brass silver).7)Has small hood with cover (you can leave it always on the lens and protect it with even less flare that’s why it is better than asph v2).8)Has almost 0 distortion.9) Works better with any digital Leica because of the optimised Leica sensor,also because of the lens corrections.10)Has the best film look with digital I have ever seen from any lens.11)With tri-x 400 is a dream.
Thanks Nick! Sounds like you have your 35mm lens covered :) I'm not sure I agree on all points but many are personal preference. The key is finding a lens we like to use I think :)
Follow-up: I bought one of these a few months ago largely on Matt's recommendation, and while I like the optical performance and compact size, I'm having buyer's remorse over the focusing tab. If you grab the tab delicately between thumb and forefinger and carefully move it back and forth, it operates smoothly. But if you try to use it the way you actually use a focusing tab - push your fingertip up into the recess and move it back and forth - you encounter what car people refer to as “stiction”: the focusing movement feels irregularly sticky because the friction varies. The start-stop action makes precise focusing difficult. I assume this is caused by the sideways pressure needed to keep your finger in the recess… if you make a deliberate effort to press hard, you'll find the focusing action becomes VERY sticky and hard to turn. Various online comments said it would smooth out over time, but mine hasn't, and it's now too late to return it. Probably not all of them are like this, but buyer beware - if you want to get one, try it out right away while putting a bit of pressure on the focusing tab, and if you don't like the way it feels, this probably isn't the lens for you.
@@jlwilliams Did your lens ever smooth out? I just bought one used and it had the same issue. I picked up a brand new one and it still has the issue but not as bad as the used one...
@@UsosCreative It hasn't really gone away, but I've gotten used to it. Either I take care to avoid pressing too hard, or put my finger outside the tab and press it sideways instead of up, or grasp the tab between thumb and forefinger and move it that way. I can live with it, but I still wish it had a plain ring instead of the tab. My 35mm f/2 Canon LTM lens (made in the early 1960s) is even smaller than this one, has a normal ring instead of a tab, and focuses with perfect smoothness. I really don't see the point of the tab, although I guess some people like it because Leica uses one.
Ok I now know exactly wot kit I want; the blk paint 10-R with the Voit f2/ 35mm…. yup, that combo wood - I hope - keep me happy on the streets & out in landscapes for years … Thks mate !!
Hi Matt, I'm just a hobbyist and have never made money from photos. I started taking pictures with a film camera in the 1970s. From a film SLR camera, to a digital SLR camera (Canon 5D Mark ii) was used. In the digital SLR era, the biggest problem I encountered was that the camera and lens were too big and too heavy. I miss the film days when I only had a Zeiss 58mm lens. Back then, I was never bothered by a camera that was too big or too heavy. Especially when getting on the plane, cameras and lenses cannot be checked in because they will break the camera and lens. There was a song where they broke my guitar. It's about an airline company breaking a singer's guitar. But I also need to bring other items with me on the plane. This is very inconvenient. Nor can you carry such a large camera and lens for mountain climbing and long walking. So, I thought of Leica. The only reason to choose Leica is that I want a small size and light weight camera and lens, not how rich I am. I liked the APO version of the lens, but instead of APO lenses for size and weight, bought the Ultron. That's why I chose Leica. I also don't need an aperture of f/1.4. Because at f/1.4, I couldn't get precise focus at all. Besides, the f/1.4 lens will be bigger and heavier. This is not what I wanted for choosing Leica. But issues with the focus ring eventually led me to stop using the Ultron and buy a Voigtlander Nokton Classic 35mm f/1.4 II MC. I like this MC version and dislike that SC version. This way the focus ring problem is gone. Only the filter size has become 43. Slightly bigger. This is a pity. But this is a compromise.
Hi thanks for your back story. I hope to do a new Nokton 35mm f1.4 video when I get time. A nice lens with lots of character. I like the Ultons too, 28 & 35. I use Skopar too for small size.
Finally!!! I've been waiting for this review for months as I want to upgrade from my Voigtlander 35mm Colour Skopar. I'll definitely go ahead and buy it, thanks Matt!
Had the Ultron 35/2 type I for quite a while now and it pretty much stays bolted to either my Zeiss ZM or M246. My favourite 35mm lens ever! It has a fair amount of falloff in the corners wide open which I quite like, but might not be to everyone’s taste. I used to have the ZM 35/2.8 Biogon which was also stunning but didn’t use it much because the f/2.8 aperture was a bit limiting at times.
Hey Mike, thanks! I'm glad it is not just me liking this lens :) Thanks for mentioning fall off. I hadn't noticed much but then forgot to mention it either way. Yes f2 is much more useful, especially for film.
Top quality review as always. For people getting into the M-Mount lenses today, this makes a great choice for a first and maybe only 35mm lens. I did extensive research back in 2015-2016, which ended with me buying a Zeiss ZM 35mm f/2 as well as a Voigtlander 35mm f/2.5 (which is a very solid lens, but I sold when I bought the Zeiss 35mm f/2.8). I think this Voigtlander beats the Zeiss 35mm f/2 in most categories, with the Zeiss only seeming to have slightly better light transmission levels, when shot wide open side-by-side against the Voigtlander. For several months I considered selling the Zeiss 35mm f/2 to buy the Voigtlander, but I am not going to do so as the 43mm filter size actually works in my Zeiss lens kit, and more importantly, I don’t think there is enough of a difference to matter as I only shoot film.
@@MattOsborne-MrLeicaCom I do like smaller lenses and my Zeiss 35mm f/2.8 is my go to lens for daylight shooting. I use the 35mm f/2 if I might be shooting in low light or if I am matching it with a lens that is slightly less sharp or lower contrast like the Zeiss 50mm f/1.5. I took the 35mm f/2.8 and the 50mm f/1.5 on a trip to Taiwan and I found that that while both lenses produce wonderful results, there was a noticeable (to me) difference in sharpness and contrast when looking at images from both side by side.
Mate, u do some really useful n informative reviews with some great demo shots & some really lovely images, (personally prefer yr landscape images to yr model shots). Thks !!
Thanks William! I will try to find myself in a situation to shoot more landscapes for some videos (usually i'm shooting models). See the Voigt. 50 2.5 video.. that's a mix of images.
I actually still prefer my Leica Summarit 35mm f/2.4 ASPH over the old Summicron across the board, and think it's close to the new 'Cron at f/2.8 and above and doesn't have the dark corners like the Voigts do and even comes with a nice metal lens hood. It's my perfect walk-around lens on my M240.
I’ve the older version, the 2.5. Such an underrated lens and for me the summicron just isn’t worth the extra cash for the half stop light gain. It has more then enough DoF for me. I don’t like having super blurred backgrounds. Just because it’s the “cheap Leica” doesn’t make them a bad lens. Great to see someone else give this series some love
Thanks Patrick, the "workshop guy" I mentioned had a Summarit too. I said keep that and sell the Summicron. I like the Summarit lenses. My 50mm is excellent.
Thank you for this interesting informative video. Would love to see this lens contrasted with the 35mm Nokton III -- both for film and an M9 I hanker for the greater speed of the Nokton but also seek a very sharp lens.
Indeed, from a walk around lens persepective probably the best 35 mm lens vor M-Mount, regarding price, size and performance. What I don't like at this lens - I've tested two copies Type II on a digital camera - is the harsh decoupling and coupling of the focus ring at 0.7 meters. I could hear the click in both directions, with the Ultron 35 1.7, for example, this is much softer and more harmonious. My copy of the Ultron 35 1.7 seemed to me slightly sharper, so I will keep this, instead of changing to the half sized Ultron 35 2.
@@MattOsborne-MrLeicaCom Maybe there is a series spread. I had a noise, in both directions, coupling and decoupling, with both copies. So I will maybe try a third one, maybe Version I, with the pin.
Hi Matt, thanks for the video! I recently bought the Nokton 35f1.4 version II, and thinking to sell that and switch to Ultron 35 f2.0. However, I'm not clear the optical difference between the 35f2.0 version 1 & 2. Can you give me a hint?
Hey Matt, I just got the F1.7 version! In your F1.7 review you said that the lens is almost too sharp for female portraiture. Since you mentioned that this lens is sharper than the F1.7, did you experience a similar result? Thank you for your dedication to us photographers! i've been practicing "walking in the focus" with my 35mm F1.7 on my M6. I set the distance to 1.2M, focus, then I walk it into what I think will be 1 meter, turn the focus ring to 1M, and check the focus on the range finder. I think this should allow me to "guess the distance" when going from 0.7 to 0.5M. Does this sound like a reasonable approach to you?
Thanks Greg, I think the 1.7 is a bit more Distagon like, it’s sharper when it comes to portraits but in the little test the f2 was sharp. I use the f2 with models no issue and miss the 1.7 at times! Yes practice makes perfect!
Thanks Cary, It was colour film so it might be delayed until I finish the roll. In hindsight I wish I'd shot some B&W film with it for fast results. I'm sure I will end up getting one eventually. For now I will use the 28mm Ultron v2 that I got (after testing), as i'm more of a 28+50mm guy
One small correction, the V2 Ultron is actually 210g while the V1 is 170g, due to the change to brass material in V2. Not easy to find this info online!
@@MattOsborne-MrLeicaCom he’s not referring to 1.7 as V1, that’s a completely different lens. V1 is the black/silver with focus stick, V2 is the one you review here
Can't wait for your SL - S5 comparison ;-) btw I just bought the ttartisn 35/1.4 APS - c for the CL. I think it's amazing value for the money and you probably will like it too
Problem like many: Love the size and optics but the copy I got is unusable because the focus sticks going from near infinity to closer distances. I've had several Voigtlander's over the years, this is the first issue I've had but seeing as it seems so widespread I'm going to stick with the Zeiss Biogon even if it's slower.
Sorry to hear that Colin. I've yet to experience this but the Biogon lenses are excellent too. Actually it's my 21? ..might be the 25 that has the build issues so it can happen to Zeiss too.
@@MattOsborne-MrLeicaCom I used a Zeiss 58mm f/2 in the 1970s and 1980s. Its optical properties are very good. But at that time, I encountered a problem that caused me a lot of trouble. This problem is just like following. In those days, when we were doing focusing operations, we would open the aperture to the maximum f/2. Turn the focus ring again to perform the focusing operation. After we finish focusing, and turn the aperture ring to narrow down the aperture to the aperture we need, such as f/5.6, or f/8. The problem lies here. When I turn the aperture ring to stop down the aperture, the focus ring turns with it. Just finished focusing work and totally ruined. Later, I never used Zeiss lenses again. I've also run into situations where I get stuck when switching from infinity focus to nearest focus. I'm asking for a solution online. Someone said, let me take the lens off the body. Apply pressure to the focus ring with your hand so that the focus ring can turn again. Then turn the focus ring for at least 30 minutes. Try putting the camera back in. I did. The situation has indeed improved.
Looks like a wonderful lens, but that's a steep price, especially for an amateur or enthusiast. I'm still trying to justify buying either the 23, 35 or 50 f2 Fuji prime for my X-T3. Great glass is a tough item for us hobby shooters! 🙂 Nice review...
Thanks Charlie, I think a Fuji shooter wrote that he had this and the Fuji 35mm but preferred this. You could look at the little Skopar for a cheaper option.
I was lucky enough to pick up an M39 Leitz Elmar 35mm 3,5f made in 1941. I picked it up with a bunch of other little nicknacks for $100. Lucky. I picked up my first Leica because of that lens, just so I could have it mated to something.
@@MattOsborne-MrLeicaCom So I have the Barnack now and I'm trying to fall in love with it. It's a weighty machine. I'm used to the Rollei 35 for street photography. Even the OM1. Only time will tell.
Stunning images. Informative review as usual. I have this lens in silver and I prefer it to my previous summicron 35 asph ii. Mainly because of the 0.58m close focus. It’s a gem, together with my Zeiss 35mm f2.8 biogon. Thinking of getting the Nokton 35 f1.2 v3 to complement the line up for impactful portraiture (had the v2, was too big and heavy for my preference, but wonderful pictures nonetheless).
@@MattOsborne-MrLeicaCom I use an M10 and SL2-S interchangeably so the 35mm would be easier to use between both. But I used to own the 40 1.2. Superb lens too.
Hi Matt, I enjoy all your videos, even the ones in which you address lenses that I probably won't acquire because I always learn stuff from you. I've noticed something about your philosophy and practices for which I'd appreciate some clarification. While you've stated that you sold your Zeiss 50mm f/2 M-mount because it was 'too sharp', you seem to focus on the sharpness of the 35mm focal-length lenses a great deal. What is different between the two focal lengths that has you emphasizing the sharpness only of the shorter one?
Thanks Chris, sorry to cause confusion. If it’s a lens for non-portraits I enjoy sharp. If 50mm portraits I don’t mind softer. That said I later bought the APO 50 to shoot film with :)
Again a great video, Matt! Could you please tell me is the focus ring sach smooth like summicron 35mm? I heard that on this lens it can be a small issue.
The first lens for my M240 was the Voigtlander 35mm 1.4 MC II Nokton Classic and has been my favorite since. How would this f2 Ultron compare to the 1.4 MC II? Thanks Matt...
Perhaps I can chime in here. I’ve had both lenses as well, and the Ultron is the better optically corrected lens (ASPH). You’ll get a more modern rendering and less aberration and distortion, and more consistent performance across the aperture range. Personally I haven’t regretted selling my Nokton1.4 MC II, but perhaps you may enjoy the character of the Nokton more. In terms of size and handling they are quite similar, the Ultron is slightly smaller but more dense due to the brass construction.
@@CaryZhao I never shoot wide open and 90% of the time I'm at f5.6 and range focusing. I'm very happy with the Nokton and it's character. Thanks Cary..
Great review but I'm having a hard time figuring out which 35 to get. I mainly use it for street and pics of people I do like the look of summicron but can't justify the money so which would you recommend between the 1.7 , the Ultron 2 and the apo
Okay, suppose I'm trying to decide between this lens and the 35/2 Apo-Lanthar. This wouldn't be a factor for people using a mirrorless camera and an adapter, but what about finder intrusion when using a true rangefinder camera? The Ultron is so short that I'm guessing it wouldn't be an issue at all, but am wondering if the extra length of the Lanthar would be more of a problem (especially if the sun happened to glance off the shiny chrome front rim that Cosina insists on putting on both of these lenses?) Speaking of which, could you get a sense of whether this chrome rim might have caused some of the flare you noted when shooting directly toward a bright light?
Thanks JL and interesting point. APO blocks the finder slightly (see that video, I can't remember if I mention that exact point) but it is big for a M camera. I prefer the Ultron on a M. I didn't see flare coming off the rim when trying hard to flare the lens but it's an interesting point. Some put black filters on similar lenses for this reason.
Hi Matt. Sorry for all the questions recently. Would the Ultron be a good 50mm equivalent on the CL? I'm looking for a lens that can move between the SL and CL. I know you use the 35mm 1.2 for portraiture in the CL but I'm just looking for a light travel lens.
@@MattOsborne-MrLeicaCom Yes but thats almost double the price of ultron. I am pairing it with M6 and film can be a bit soft so was going for a sharper lens. (hope the logic is correct, haha) Thank you so much for responding!
Yes, I like it, sometimes even use it instead Fuji 35 f2 which is AF. The only complaint is that it is cumbersome to focus in portrait mode:) And the hood is expensive... Forgot to mention, continuous shooting sound on your Leica sucks :):) compared to Fuji X-T4
Hi Matt! Does the ultron suffer from Focus-shift? I bought a Nokton 1.4 Series I which I had to return for this fault. It was unusable on a rangefinder…. But I would really lust for the Ultron, if it does not focus-shift…. Thx a lot, Stephan
Hi Stephan, sorry to hear. Yes the Nokton is known for this. I don't think it's an issue with the Ultron. I've never noticed it but maybe watch a few other Ultron vids before buying just in case.
I use mine in the SL,CL,M240 & film. It easily beat the 35 Cron in my testing if that helps answer your question. The best 35s are APOs for resolution but for me this is the best all rounder.
thank you Matt, I will do so, and for portrait I do hesitate for another one, may be the Voigtlander APO-Lanthar 2/35 asph. VM or the Voigtlander Nokton 1,2/35 or 50 asph. VM or Voigtlander 35mm 1.7 Ultron M ?
Hey Matt! Any issues on your M film bodies with the close focus distance being closer than .7M? I've heard the M10 can couple all the way to .58 but wondering what you see on an m6/4/3/p? Any issues with that? Trying to decide between this and a zeiss 35 2.8...
Hi yes the 0.7m MFD is a limitation of ALL M cameras, no exceptions. You can use lenses closer but have to guess the focus. (You can focus via live view on later digital Ms, just not M8/M9).
@@MattOsborne-MrLeicaCom Thanks for the reply! Did you mean "Set the lens to .7m?" That makes sense of course... My question was more about how the rangefinder behaves when you go closer than .7 on the lens? Is there any visual indication or does the patch just sit in the same place? Not the end of the world, of course... But thought I'd ask since you actually have the lens!
@@MattOsborne-MrLeicaCom Makes sense... Not sure why it didn't click in my brain that the M10 could use liveview for closer focus. Must have been what that other video was talking about. :) Thanks for the reply!!
Leica Summarit is also perfect for same reasons for street photography,but if you shoot film, f/2 is very important.Summilux f1.4 is much more expensive,bigger and less good for street photography (you can focus quicker witch Summicron and Summarite).Also Summarite is a little sharper but Summicron is better in every other aspect.
Hi I didn't compare them directly. The f2 is a more corrected lens for sure so should perform "better" with less quirks. The 1.4 is nice for character for me.
No way, Matt, no way. It's sharper than my Olympus OM G.Zuiko 35mm f/2.8 ? Maybe so, but I just haven't found that Voightlander adds character. I have the Voightlander 10.5mm f/0.95 and it's sharp, very sharp, but not interesting. I am in the process of figuring out if I like the Voightlander ultra wide-heliar 15mm f/4.5. Maybe it's what I find fascinating and vulnerable is single coated, vintage lenses. Time will tell, eh ?
@@MattOsborne-MrLeicaCom Yes, Matt. The reason I bought my 15mm f/4.5, version I is because of your episode on the lens... It was intriguing... And I like intriguing, thanks..
See end of vid.. if stop down, shoot film, like cheap, get Skopar. If want sharper, use wide open, can close focus with EVF (or shoot film) get Ultron. Ultron is better.
Hi Mark, sorry to hear. I can ring them tomorrow if you are still stuck. Do you want to contact me via MrLeica.Com (it's not affiliated but I can try to help)
I will never buy anything from Voigtlander. It is not a manufacturer that can be taken seriously. The range of lenses is disconcertingly unstable, some models barely last six months and are replaced without reason by another model that is not necessarily better and often worse. It's the perpetual waltz of lens and versions that quickly become outdated, just in 35mm it's shambles and it's difficult to navigate. There was an excellent 35mm 1.7 Ultron that suddenly disappeared from circulation to be replaced by much lower quality models. Voigtlander puts outrageous marketing before the customer, for whom he obviously has a certain contempt. The prices have gotten high (not the quality) so you quickly end up with an outdated and expensive lens that isn't worth much after a few months. If you are looking for seriousness and durability, buy Zeiss ZM or Leica, brands that respect the customer.
Thanks Hektor, Voigtlander lenses do sometimes get dust inside but they have done wonders for the M lens line-up. They don't release lenses that often but do release new models. I had the great 1.7 but replaced with the smaller f2. Zeiss optics are excellent on the ZM models but build is terrible. I have a £1000 lens that i can barely turn (bought new - see my ZM videos). Leica hold the value the best by far but cost more to start with. I use all 3.