DIY’er here Electrical tuning is preferred over hardware tuning because of transient response electrical tuning can also be replicated on a massive scale, whereas using a modified housing or larger/smaller port openings is much harder to replicate. It also has weight and complexity to an already complex design. dynamic drivers with such a small mass are indeed extremely fast but also extremely easy to slow down.
Woow bro, it's great that you make videos of this type doing internal revisions to "in ear", fabulous video! I am a consumer of kz, I have the "KZ ZSX TERMINATOR DE 12 DRIVERS" AND "YANYIN CANON". I would love to see your review of the KZ ZSX, greetings from Argentina 🇦🇷🤙
@@Mykeoguns I can't really tell because I don't own anything that has outstanding macro dynamics performance , Plus my hearing is more in tuned to tonality and distortion. But to answer the question somehow , The Kz ZVX has good and above average macro dynamics , Easy to drive can go loud without sacrificing the bass level , And has low distortion ( less ticking sound on high power levels compared to s12 pro). Average imaging but good soundstaging , The micro dynamics is somehow lacking , But overall it is very enjoyable to listen , It's like you are in a club with very good sound system where you listen to the groove of the music it's so good , Makes you not care about the details as much .
@@MarsChan07 I have S12 which is totally non existent in the area of macro-detail but tech wise it's far superior. I also have ea500 paired with black nozel it does macro detail fine but not outstanding like kz ESX. ESX made made me to start digging into my library again . Thank for your response I will consider ZVX.
I'm glad they're improving so much! These to my ear have too much bass to be called neutral, but you know what can be? The new KZ D-Fi with only the last switch flipped up is an actual neutral set, which is so rare but so awesome! I really appreciate them for doing that
@@Mykeoguns best detail in that range - TinHiFi P1 Max Best soundstage and imaging - Final Audio A4000 Budget recommendation: Moondrop SSR - even 3 years later, no budget set has this good technical performance
Poweramp app. Set the treble knob for 15khz and experiment. It adds air, sparkle and a level of detail to iems that just didn't quite do it for me. When I find the level I like for a particular item, I'll make it permanent in a custom EQ (high shelf, set treble knob to dB rather than percent to find level).
10:23 yes, I have noticed with a FiiO Eclipse when I was visiting my folks in a very humid area, a few weeks ago. I kept drying the nozzles at every hour or so.
@@hi-friaudioman Haha I thought you modded it with stock drivers. My pet theory is that one of these budget sets can be made outstanding with some mods, so the appearances caught my attention.
I'm not an engineer either but I'm pretty sure (especially since we're talking DC-currents/voltages) here that there is not much you can do in terms of changing the impedance curve. Unless we're just talking about the resistors (because impedances are more an AC thing) getting warm and becoming more resistive when they get to a set working temp. But maybe we're taking about something completely different here.
It's a fairly common misconception that because its DC that goes into an amplifier that it is also DC that goes into a (speaker) driver. But if you look inside a good quality amplifier, you will find that there is actually a DC protection circuit on the output preventing DC current from making it to the drivers. This is because one of the fastest way to destroy a driver is to feed it DC current. What comes out of the amplifier is AC. To produce a steady 50 Hz tone, the amplifier produces a 50 Hz AC electrical current which the driver then converts into a 50 Hz oscillation in the diaphragm/armature which is then heard as 50 Hz tone (ideally, it doesn't always workout this way). DC is used to power the amplifier circuit because it is easier to produce whatever frequency of AC you want from DC than it is to convert one AC frequency into another. The amplifier is essentially a DC-AC variable frequency drive. The drivers themselves are essentially a linear permanent magnet synchronous (read: AC) motor. Since they are AC motors, that means they are a reactive load with impedance that changes depending on frequency.
Is the blon thing come to your door bro? I need your advice since my friend just non stop asking me about it, he want to replace his 03 since that thing is non functional anymore
Just got a pair of these on aliexpress but the right-side is presenting some problems. If I push a little bit harder in my ear he goes silent, then I have to reconnect the cable. However there is no solution for when I'm using it with the Bluetooth. Sound quality is great but this problem sux. I wonder if I can open up and check inside for a possibile fix
Try removing the mesh and see if the problem continues. You might have to replace the mesh with another 4.3mm mesh. The problem could be elsewhere but try that first.
The image quality looks great. 👍 Can you suggest a laid back neutral set for all they listening that is setup in terms of technicalities over this sub $50 iems? Thanks
Hi, I'm new here. Great Channel! I saw you the first time a little while ago in a Facebook group (I think chii-fi love... or Chifi Hopes... or Head-fi.. or similar :-)). I received the ZVX today. The skewed sockets facing outwards are very uncomfortable for me. The QDC cables tend outwards and press the ear down (especially if the cables are heavier than the stock ones). A little better with thin cables with classic straight connectors 2 pin 0.78. I also ordered Pr2 and D-Fi (No Switch) and I hope they don't have the same issue. Can you tell me if the sockets of KZ PR2 and D-FI are skewed?
I'm not a fan of qdc style connectors. Saying that i only have one IEM with them - Thieaudio Legacy 3. Mine started to crack, not long after I bought them. It has put me off any IEM that has them now. Not had any problem with standard 2 pin though.
My mele clogged quick due to condensation, no issues with my others yet buts its still a concern for those types. Still hoping to see the ex800st show up, a actually semi open design with a big old 16mm dd
@Hi-Fri Audio hey Hi-fri, I am interested in starting my own diy iem designs, however, I am not sure where would be a good starting point. I think tuning processs such as (using correct dampers, choosing the correct driver combos and designing crossovers) would be the most difficult part of this journey, and I was wondering how you gained more knowledge about them. What would be the best way to learn? Also, what engineering related concepts should I study before starting my own project? I would appreciate any guidelines. Thank you!
Yes. I have both and the Ling Long has good tuning but all ZVX's technicalities are at whole different level. I have also the CCA CXS and I prefer slightly the ZVX.
I don't know if you replaced your mic setup too but the audio quality of this video sounds better. In your previous videos I heard some high frequency chirping once in a while, kind of like noise canceling artifacts.
The zex pro is a little more boomy and uncontrolled and there is a bit of metallic timbre in the treble. Technicalities I'm not sure and imaging I'm not sure.
Burn in only work on some earphones only few I had Sennheiser Cx 180 its bass was too tight in beginning but later the bass got loose after 1 year it was rumbly i bought new unit also checked twice Cx180 was hedt sounding earphones under $100 it only costed $10 Still have those including CRA 7hz zero ZVX Edx Ultra Waner hola Quarks DSP etc Cx180 still sounds better than them all in mid range vocals or treble Bass is not even comparable CX180 has much better sub bass than all of them
It depends on your climate, if you live in a warm moist climate, you're going to want to go with Hola or zero. Because ZVX has issues with moisture ingress through the dampener and you will lose sound if you live in a warm climate. The metal shell makes it so that the IEM must always be worn in temperature similar to body temperature, anything higher or lower will result in moisture clogging the dampener and killing the sound.
BRO YOU CAN TELL YOU ARENT AN ENGINEER WHEN YOU TALK ABOUT BURN IN JESUS christ the immediate way to tell someone does not know what they are talking about """"burn in"""" would happen at the factory even before QA testing that is actually where the term comes from like I listened to an album this morning and I was like eh this kinda sucks but listening to it now in the evening I am a big fan but as an engineer I will tell you that a speaker is a coil//inductor so by adding a resistor and a capacitor you get an "RLC" circuit and thus there are specific frequencies that have higher "reactance" than others due to the values of the L so you modify it with R and C
