🛠️ DIY Open Baffle Speakers PART 6: I should have these reviewed. 

Awesome video! Thank you. Exactly the info that I needed right now. 😊

Best detailed baffle I have ever seen, thanks so much!

I think separating the baffles works well. I built U baffle for the bass. Basically a box with the back open, and then just set a small baffle on top of the box for the mid/hi's. I found isolating the vibration by setting the upper baffle on a silicon trivet then improved the sound.

Nice Build! (and nice pipe!)

Love your videos

I have a pair of Betsy baffles using the Lil Fast 8. They sit atop a pair of SVS SB-2000 subwoofers. These sit on a pair of IKEA Kallax cubes. The phase plugs on the Fast 8s are at 44" and the center of the SB-2000s driver is at 24". The SB-2000s feed everything above 80 Hz to a Schiit Saga S, then to a PrimaLuna ProLogue Five powering the Betsy baffles. Crude, but surprisingly effective.

LETS GO!!! 🎉❤😊

Great video man!! I've been down the same rabbit hole, we have done very similar experiments with slightly differing executions: - I played around with different baffle material: 2 inch thick Maple was too reflective. 1.5 inch laminated ply (like you) sounded great but I found the build a bit flimsy. I settled on 2 inch thick cedar for my personal sound preference. My experience has shown that baffle material sound characteristics are very similar to acoustic guitar wood characteristics (ie difference between maple top, cedar top ect). - I have the same findings with regards to height of speaker on baffle. I prefer the speaker to be lower on the baffle but too low and it kills transparency. Solution I came to was to place the center of speaker 24 inches from floor but I tilted the entire baffle back by 5 degrees (cut the bottom of the baffle at 5° and also cut the edge of floor plate that attaches to baffle at 5°). This keeps the benefits of a lower speaker position but points the speaker directly at my ears in seated position. This worked out amazing! Degree of tilt would need to be adjusted based on how close or far one is sitting from speaker. - I'm using a set of Rel subs at the moment. I'm in a huge room (36 x 48 with 16 foot ceiling) so I need a lot of bass power. If you ever head down to the baie des chaleurs in the Gaspésie give me a shout, would love to compare notes over a lobster meal 😊

I have experimented with a small open baffle using a 6.5 inch driver and rear facing out of phase tweeter with no crossover. Driven by Technics amp with Yamaha equaliser. I was surprised how well they worked.

Nice! I like ob speakers but I've been going down the hole of cardioid, guess I like the challenge, lol. And yes every speaker I build sounds amazing to me and I think they should get reviewed, haha, just the nature of the process

Good job 👏 you🤘

May I share a little trick for your next project? It's not a game changer but another tiny step. Hiraga shared this with me (the old man is still sharp). I am sure you know these PHY drivers and they do something very easy but incredibly smart. Have a close look at their baskets. Their baskets overlap with the surround (without touching it of course), so they mechanically reduce the surrounds resonance sounds. ;-) Isn't that smart? So maybe for your next project you want to do the same trick but with your baffle. With your 15 inch unit I guess you will even have enough space to get something acoustic dampening stuff in between like foam or felt or something.

The big Decware master series baffles are 42” high with the f-15 centered 25-1/4” off the floor. I think a bunch of testing went into figuring out these dimensions but I could be mistaken. Either way they sound lovely.

A couple of random comments - the width of the saw blade cut is called a kerf. The 'L' bracket is intended to strengthen what is called a moment connection - the supports and the baffle are essentially cantilevered off each other - so the bracket would be much better if it was larger. And I would suggest 2 supports out near the edges of the baffle - they could be longer, and this would be more stable. On the bass response, I think that sometimes "wings" are used to increase the path length to lower the frequency that is canceled? The wing(s) can be on one side or both, and can be different lengths; to tune the bass response more independently from the height of the driver. Edit: tilting the baffle back a bit will raise the treble listening axis while keeping the driver lower - you have several/all of your builds tilted a bit; but it is worth mentioning.

I made a pair of Decware ZF15M clones in 40mm solid oak. Well, I say I made them, but I got the guy who usually supplies 3'x3' oak tabletops to cut them to shape and drill the holes for the drivers in them according to the plans I bought from Decware for $30. Didn't get him to cut horns for me because I thought the F15s sat flush on the surface -- only found out when they were delivered that they stand proud of the surface by about a centimetre. Hey-ho. The baffles are held upright by being screwed to sturdy triangular 45 degree oak shelf brackets screwed in turn to Sapele baseplates. The baffles are angled slightly back by using approx 1" high universal castors mounted near the front of the baseplates. Coupled with slim teflon glides at the rear, this also makes them easy to manoeuvre as they weigh a ton. The baffles were supplied Danish oiled, but I oiled the baseplates and shelf brackets too. I assembled them in a day or so and all it took was a screwdriver. All the hard cutting work had been done for me by my supplier. All told, they cost me £1300 (I'm a Brit), less than a third of the cost the commercial versions would have cost me here in the UK. Since I got them, I've listened to nothing else. They're bloody marvellous down to around 50hz (and supported for lower frequencies with a REL T0 sub). The midrange was a revelation -- so rich and full. I found myself enjoying real music for the first time ever - never realised before what I'd been missing. Don't think I'll ever go back to box speakers!

I was thinking of using a butcher block countertop that you can get from Home Depot. I’ve used them for making stereo equipment racks. They are extremely thick, heavy, dense and beautiful. They are 50”x25”x1.5” and the price was very reasonable.

good job Canada

Great Video! If I remember correctly, the Liionidas designer (Leon?) recommended that the top and bottom drivers use different baffle materials. So maybe a modular model with the W15's mounted in Mdf?

you could decouple the two drivers in a similar way that Linkwitz did with his 521.4 design.

definitely interested in taking on project . i wanted to know how you decided on you speaker driver choices. Was looking at pure audio project as an example but i looked at the prices of the full range driver and was floored on the cost.

Interesting video. Have you considered mounting your drivers slightly to the left or right so as to distribute diffraction effects? Thanks!

Thankyou for your great work - what speakercable do you prefer for fullrange highefficiency speakers? Big ones with a large diameter or thin solidcore? Some Hornspeaker users like solidcore. Greatings from Germany!

I’m thinking of building these and having them at ear height suspended from cables along with either dual stereo or infinite baffle subs. Any idea what the imaging would be doing this? 🤔

Those drivers look suspiciously close to the MACO Macarias. Could it be the same driver? How would you describe the highs on it? I find full range drivers to be course, or lacking in speed and clarity over lower mass separates. Can you share what you used to cross over the low end of the full ranges. Thanks

Hi could you share your insights as to how much is the advantage of : In your words "Cutting up the baffles" and separating the f15/w15. VS your current setup (f15 in front w15 behind f15? Thanks

Hi Loic, are you using active crossovers? How do you manage filtering and phase and level for your woofers in their own baffles?

hi Cave, thanks for the wonderful videos, could you give advice on choosing speakers, lii sound has 2 types of f12: the first type is f12, it has a beautiful bullet and a thick cap on the back of the speaker, the density qts is greater than 1, there is a newer one the version called “f-12” is distinguished by the absence of a cap on the rear panel, and the bullet is not so beautiful, qts == 0.7. Question: which version of the speaker is better?

Hi! Im interested these speakers, im starting my own speaker project and i have few questions. Have you limited the f15 at all or is it still full range? And im trying to figure it out that should i buy f15 or fast 15... I like wide soundstage but havent got straight answer about these two 😅

By using different mounting techniques, materials that are seen here online, and lots of modifications on the transducers including close to 5 years of experimentation, you can hear the current version of my own design on my tiny YT channel 🙂

What type of crossover part : Air Coils, polypropylene capacitors, precision resistance. Mundorf?

I have a pair of fast 12's. Is there a resistor or some kind of choke i can use on them to fix the sound they are fatiging in the upper mid to high's

So did you abandon the F-15/W-15 combo? I paired my F-15s with the SB Audience Bianco 15 and it is amazing.

Hello and good evening , I am in the verge ( tomorrow , is already to late in the night now to ordered it ) to order a pair of lii audio f15 . I am thinking of putting the driver 75 cm of the floor to 80cm , I do think 75 due to the fact that my sitting couch is low , I am going to let a friend of mine build this as he is timmerman and a very good one at that ,I am thinking about building them with 3 different kind of real woods , one in the middle and darker wood for the extremes , precisely cut to the same width and glued together , It will be about 4 cm deep ( about 1,58 inches I think …..) and faceted like a mini horn in front , due to the fact that the driver is going to be mounted behind the baffle of course. I have just one question that I could not understand , and would be much obliged for the help , thank you in advance. What is the width that you have cutted the panels ? I was thinking about maximum 5 to 7 cm per side relative to where the driver ends on each side ,….so about 50 to 54 cm wide for the baffle , due to the fact that I never could understood wide baffles, as in my experience they only mess with soundstage ,and not in a good way . I will be using Duelund 12 gauge cable to connect them to a pair of binding posts mounted on an wood block mounted behind on the foot and isolated with rubber , Thanks in advance once more

Do you think a setup with two 15's in each panels can be driven to good levels with 25 watt tube amps? Also are you bi amping the bass drivers on your other ones?

Nice job ! How would you compair your speakers to the Lii Song Leonidas ?

What is your opinion of the Fast-15 for this project over the F-15?

Thanks for your excellent video. Why not F18s?. You probably know those. Can you describe in a brief the main differences between F15s and F18s?

"These saved me big $$$$ on my hifi" - isn't the _whole point_ of high-end audio to *spend* as much money as possible?

A handyman can make the baffles and maybe stain it too. I have 0 wooden DIY skills 😛

They look really crazy …..wouldn’t work in my living room.

ok i must say this we listen and wish to make it real, or making are own instrument of flavor or sound like building a piano.

Have you heard MACO design yet?