Really loving these videos on you resurrecting used locomotives! I wanted to point out a few things I noticed while watching, however. I'll try to keep this as short as I can. I notice you just set the screws when you take something apart on the workbench, and I'm just as guilty of it. But I would advise putting them in some kind of small container or sandwich bag, just in case maybe you bump the workbench or sneeze (both are things that have happened to me) and you lose a screw to the black hole known as the floor. It has happened many times to me, and as much as I keep the floor swept (it's a concrete floor in the garage), I don't have good luck finding them. I actually have a magnetic dish I put screws in. Sure, it doesn't help with brass or aluminum screws (both of which I come across frequently), but it sure helps with the steel ones, anyway. Another idea could be working in a shallow container or tray to prevent screws or other small objects from standing up and walking away on their own somehow. When I have motors that don't work like that, I just tear the whole motor apart and clean it, to also give it a better shot at running and to locate issues and nip them in the bud before something else happens. I don't even try to power it up without tearing it totally apart to clean it, just in case there is some kind of foreign object in there that could cause physical damage. Again, just my preference, but there have been times I've been glad I did this. Case in point, a 1950's John English mikado (2-8-2) with its original open frame motor, which I bought recently on ebay. Seller said it didn't run, and I bought it assuming I could get it to run, which in about 99% of cases can. I popped the shell off to remove the motor, and to my horror, was a fair bit of steel wool wrapped around the motor! Had I tried to get it to run without inspection, the steel wool would've either caught on fire (look up what happens when you put electricity through steel wool and don't try it at home!) or shorted out. Most motors should be ok to test like you did, but beware just in case. Do like you did and give it a good visual inspection first. Any used equipment I get goes through a thorough and total rebuild before I even put power to it, even through the leads. I've found many stripped gears and bent axles before, and had they not been caught, they could've caused further damage. I also go through with a continuity tester and make sure I won't have any shorts before I put it on the tracks. I know, sounds like a lot of thorough and hard work for a little model, but it has saved me a lot of time and money in the long run. You did the right thing giving it a total rebuild before putting it to the rails. Next time, try using a piece of very fine steel wool and cleaning the wheel treads and any dirty contacts a bit while you've got it apart, it'll help with electrical pick-up big time. Just make sure you wash the parts in warm water with Dawn dish detergent afterwards to remove any steel wool fibers, and you should wash all the gears that way too, anyway. Finally, a word on quartering. I've very rarely come across un-quartered drivers, but if you do, it's a pretty easy fix. I take all the wheels and set them on a perfectly level straight piece of track. I put the longest crankpins that the engine has (normally from the main driver) into the wheel and just simply eyeball the quartering. To make the adjustments, turn the uninsulated driver on the axle. Don't mess with the insulated side or you might damage the insulation. I like to clamp the insulated side in a smooth jaw vise and then adjust the uninsulated wheel that way. You don't need any fancy quartering jig to do this. After you've done it enough times, it'll come natural and you'll have no problems doing it, but I suggest practicing on some junked wheels first till you get the hang of it. I'll try to get a video up at some point on my RU-vid channel about that to better explain it and demonstrate. It may not be un-quartered drivers in your case, however. Remove the motor so the model can freewheel, and roll it back and forth on a flat smooth surface like a plate of glass. Where it binds up, have a look at the side rods. Do they seem to have tension, or are they still a bit loose like they should be? Are any of the crankpin bolts contacting the crosshead on the first driver? If anything seems out of place like this, you may need to make some fine adjustments. I would check this before checking the quartering of the drivers. Anyway I apologize for being lengthy on some of the things I noticed, I hope you find this helpful in some way. You are doing a great job, however! Don't take this as criticism, but just as some advice to make life a little easier. Have a great day, and keep up your great work!
That mess on the gears? That's the kind of thing that happens when you have a cat who loves your layout and uses it for a place to relax. I speak from experience here, folks...
If you use Atlas Snap relays, you can power the frogs so that short wheelbase engines won't stall at the frogs. The Snap relay can also be used to make your turnouts remote turnouts at the same time. That Atlas wiring book is a simple and easy to follow book on how to do this. Hope this helps.
SMT - If I recall correctly from a previous video, you had obtained some sheet plastic. Maybe you could use the sheet plastic to fabricate a bottom cover for the chassis; to protect the gears from dirt. Did you also find out who manufactured the engine? SMT, you also may want to consider running a jumper wire to that short section of rail between the 2 switch tracks to improve electrical pickup of your locomotives.
You're absolutely right, I certainly did buy some sheets of plastic a while back and maybe it would work. The main benefit would be keeping dust and stuff out for good this time. As for the make of the locomotive, I still have no idea nor is there any evidence of who made it. This is a pretty strange locomotive if I'm honest.
Just got that exact loco. Having issues. Do the contacts in the smokebox have to be aligned with the contacts at the front for it to work? Hmmmm. Help appreciated!
Ive got a tyco midnight special loco and i had it run once. When i put it on the rails now, the lights come on and thats it. When i turn the throttle switch it dims or brightens the lights. I am using the stock tyco switch which may be an issue, not sure.
IS THERE ANY WAY .YOU CAN TALK LOUDER OR TURN VOLUME CONTROL UP . IF YOU WORK ON TRAINS . IM SURE YOU CAN WORK ON AUDIO . IM HARD OF HEARING . I'M SURE THERE SOMEBODY THERE GOT THE SAME ISSUE . I LIKE WATCHING YOUR SHOW MAYBE I NEED A LOUD TRAIN WHISTLE BLOWING IN MY EAR SO I CAN HEAR . THANKS TURN IT UP .!
Unfortunately the only store I visited while there closed a few months ago. Of corse there is DCC Train LLC who actually has a channel and is part of the community. I haven't ever been but it's run by nice people.
