0045 T gauge track laying on The Dawlish T Wall 

I really like your work in t-gauge! Hope to see more videos in the future 👍

I’ve had the same problem with the flex track twisting - in the end I gave up with it (I think it’s possibly just too small), but I found that the the sectional track is much better. Oh also, make sure you clean your solder joints with ipa, especially if you are us8ng acid flux. Great video, looking forward to the next instalments

Good morning Jonathan! Gosh, I thought laying N gauge track could be difficult! I definitely don't have the eyesight for T gauge! I'm using Copydex on Shelfington, as it dries quickly (faster than PVA at least) and gives some flexibility beneath the track, and some wiggle room before it finally grabs the sleepers! However, be wary when trying to drill or screw through it once it's dry! Because it's latex based, it will wrap around the drill bit or screw, and pull the track up before you know what's happening unless you take it slowly! I'm definitely looking forward to see how this project develops! All the best, Ian.

It is a bit late to offer tracklaying advice, but here it is anyway! When I built Sarum Bridge 10 years ago, it needed 14m of flex track. I used the flex track joiners (two joiners on a sleeper base). When painted and ballasted, they are effectively invisible. You can easily solder the power feed wires to the brass joiners. Lay the track on a warm day or in a warm room with the track at ambient temperature, so that rail expansion doesn't become an issue in summer. I didn't use screws or anything mechanical, but directly glued the track down with superglue (cyanoacrylate), doing short 6-inch stretches at a time holding the track down by hand with a block of wood, as 30 seconds was enough drying time. A piece of paper slipped under the track and moved around worked well as an applicator and spreader. Your N Gauge experience has already told you to avoid joints on curves, and yours are only 180 degrees, so no problems there. The one thing I didn't tackle was board joints, so your guess is as good as mine with them.

I have had great success using pva, a thin layer on the track base and a thin layer on the cork, wait five minutes and a few heavy items and its done, no drilling or nailing, works perfect on curves. I found the mini disc on a dremill makes a very clean cut.

solder the gap together and if you need the gap you can then cut it with a dremal tool and it will be smaller sized gap.

To use Peco track pins, pre-drill a hole for them with a 0.6mm drill.

I thought n gauge was difficult to use, as interesting this gauge is, my fingers just wouldn't be able to work with t gauge.