Another historical F1 car & one of my favorites from the 90's, also M Shumacher's first F1 drive. Very simple kit with nice flowing body lines & distinctive green '7 Up' livery. Interesting model with multiple layer rear wing plus anhedral; stepped, front wing with sculptured endplates. Tameo had decided to use brass photo etch instead of casting to create these fixtures for cars of that period. Easier to make but more work for the builder to get a satisfying result. Soldering is best option for solid joints & filling as glue, epoxy & putty may not be strong enough for later handling of the assembly. Nice work using solder to get some curvature into the front wing. Casting is an advantage here to give wing elements a profile instead of a flat surface. Good demonstration of another technique again using solder with clean & skillful application as always. Always something new, educational & entertaining. Looking forward to the next post.
Etched parts are finished with high precision. However, they tend to be inorganic, so it is necessary to add a little extra care. I will do my best again next time, so please look forward to it.
Yes, etch parts are very precise & strong compared to casting but they are flat & lack proper shape. Using solder to add depth & curvature is much better than putty. Have to do the extra work to make these parts realistic & that is why you do it. Attention to detail as always. Do you make or buy your tire valve stems, may I ask ?
I have not built a 1/43 white metal model in over 35 years but your video makes me want to start again! Your techniques for photo-etch and soldering are fascinating to watch. Thanks and can't wait for Part II but meanwhile I will catch up on some of your other videos.
I have been doing this hobby for almost 20 years and there was a time when I did not make it. However, I kept looking at blogs that people were making. Thank you for your kind words.
Awesome work and nice video too. Joining the spoiler together using the vernier caliper was an amazing touch, I'll definitely keep that in mind. Great job on the wheels too, well done.
Another mini-masterpiece on the way! That is some very neat work on some very difficult looking photo etch! I love the use of the calipers to hold the parts of the rear wing assembly - great idea!
Wow… just wow. I really would like to have one of these but I am not skilled at all so I definitely couldn’t pull this off. Really good job, keep up the good work. I’ll be returning for the next episode!
Congratulation for your job man! Always fantastic!! Precise and very interesting solution. About solution, May I ask you where I can find the red machine you use at 3:35 to clean photoetched parts? Thanks
Thank you for watching! Air stems,lug nuts and instrument panel switches → Adler's Nest Hex Bolt Head, SSS www.amazon.co.jp/-/en/Adlers-Nest-Bolt-Head-Pieces/dp/B001ADQRVM?th=1
Very nice tricks and details! I am curious to the rest of the build! What do you think of the scale of the tire logo's? Tameo decals seems to be a little bit on the large size to me
I showed your video to my young kids (4 & 6) and they really enjoyed it and want to learn how to make models now! I was wondering - do you do this professionally or is it a hobby? Thanks!
I am very happy that your kids are happy!!! My children are not interested at all. I do it as a hobby. It is the hobby that has lasted the longest in my life!!!
What is the red polising/abrasive wheel you use on the rear wing? I'm also wondering if its worth buying a rotary tool for sanding and polishing, but I mostly do Star Trek ships and im worried a rotary tool is overkill. Thanks, and wonderful work as always!
