Clutch pressure plate must be totally flat. I kept turning the nut on the special tool until I thought something might break. Clutch plate stack too high. Perhaps there was one too many plates. The torque settings on the clutch nut have been questioned as being excessive in some manuals. Nut will not go anywhere with the locking tabs on the special washer. I had trouble getting the big locking circlip in place and was looking forward to seeing if there was a special procedure. I really enjoy watching these tutorials..
If you don't know the history of this engine maybe it has been fitted with a Norton atlas crankshaft The atlas crank has the alternator keyway broached in a different position to a commando crank
Brilliant technique to place the AC wires in a downward position to allow oil to drain down and away from the grommet. Simple yet impactful. Same with how you jammed the clutch hub with the sockets to allow the nut to be tightened. Incidentally, I’ve always thought the 70 foot lbs torque was for a new clutch circlip and the 60 foot lbs torque was for a reused circlip. What did you have to do to get the diaphragm plate or clutch stack so as to get the diaphragm to fit it into the hub?
The engine/tranny was purchased by a friend of mine from an estate sale of a Brit-Bike collector. He buys/sells Brit-Bike parts and had enough parts of his own for me to put the engine/tranny together. I selected the thinnest fiber and steel clutch plates from the stacks of plates provided, but I still think the stack is too tall. If it were my engine I would buy a new set of fiber and steel plates. The clutch does release, but I will advise him of possible clutch problems with the stack the way it is. Further testing is out of scope for me.
The engine/tranny was purchased by a friend of mine from an estate sale of a Brit-Bike collector. He buys/sells Brit-Bike parts and had enough parts of his own for me to put the engine/tranny together. I selected the thinnest fiber and steel clutch plates from the stacks of plates provided, but I still think the stack is too tall. If it were my engine I would buy a new set of fiber and steel plates. The clutch does release, but I will advise him of possible clutch problems with the stack the way it is. Further testing is out of scope for me.
Im sorry to sound rude but when you set a lucas air gap you need to turn the engine over to at minimum 4 different positions and check icase of any rotor run out especially on a commando I still can't believe youd use an impact driver to tighten screws!! 45ft pounds is the maximum with loctie and without the soft tab washer to retain the clutch properly Also fit a dyno dave clutch pushrod seal whilst you are in there to stop gearbox oil migrating from the gearbox to the primary and getting on the clutch plates There's been lots of improvements made to commandos in the last 50 years Please try to recognise some of them I hope this helps
Clutch plates usually recommended to soak in oil overnight. Diaphragm spring final fitting glossed over, problem not addressed, why, was the spring over compressed?
The engine/tranny was purchased by a friend of mine from an estate sale of a Brit-Bike collector. He buys/sells Brit-Bike parts and had enough parts of his own for me to put the engine/tranny together. I selected the thinnest fiber and steel clutch plates from the stacks of plates provided, but I still think the stack is too tall. If it were my engine I would buy a new set of fiber and steel plates. The clutch does release, but I will advise him of possible clutch problems with the stack the way it is. Further testing is out of scope for me.
