lathe headstock and gearbox oil filter clean. smart and brown 1024 fast/slow gearbox inspection . Rear enclosure inspection. link to 1024 motor rating plate drive.google.c...
Hello, came across your videos while trying to find info on a Smart&Brown lathe I have just bought. I’m trying to figure out if I can use a VDF with the motor that is currently installed in the machine. It’s a three phase motor and with removing it(the face plate is on the bottom of it) I have very little info. What it does say is that it is The English Electric Co LTD with a frame ID of MY747??. I don’t suppose you would have any info regarding this? Appreciate any help you can give.
Hi there Hope you get on well with the lathe. I have attached a link to a picture of my rating plate. That is all I know. Your next step is to find a good sparky. I run mine from a large 3 phase rotary convertor ....... a trans wave RT3 rated to run a 3HP motor. I do not know if a VFD will work with the motor which has 3 different ratings for the different speeds, or if a VFD would work with the switching which is on a complicated multi terminal "corn on the cob" stack , or work with the electrical motor braking. At times my rotary convertor struggles such as hi speed starting. I came across a site where a machinist had this problem and used a rotary convertor feed to a VFD as a control over the way the motor started so as to smooth out the loading. I would like to see if that is possible with this motor. What I do know is that replacing the motor would take an awful lot of work to get the tensions and alignments ..... so if you can run with the original motor you are already 2/3 of the way there. Please put a follow up comment if you find some good information All the best Shed guy
Firstly thankyou for an excellent instructional video. I now know how to service my oil pump system on this lathe. Will you be putting up a video about the flood coolant pump service? My pump stopped working then would only buzz (not pump) once turned on. Following this it completely died? Would you have any suggestions as to what could be the problem? Thankyou Dave.
No plans for a coolant video at the moment - hopefully my pump keeps going. The only problem so far was the coolant flowing back down the hose when I switched the pump off ....... so I fitted a one way flow valve and all was good. It sounds like the motor wants to work. I would have a look at it in situ ... check the foot is sitting in coolant ..... see if the filter cage is clear .... check the hose up to the lathe is clear ..... make sure the nozzle and control valve work. so do the basics .... failing that take the motor out ..... and see what's what ...... check the impeller ....... it will be a simple motor so it is likely to be a simple fault maybe just a bearing change. these motors have a miserable life - show it some love good luck
Nick I am in Britain. Where abouts in the world are you? if you have no low speed on the motor then you lose spindle speeds 872, 244 , 111, & 30 as you have the hi and low box, and you have direct drive and backgear. So the answer is try to fix it. If it is just the wires from the motor to the switch then replace those with the correct rated wire and you are good. If it is where the wires go into the motor then you should be able to reconnect then without too much bother, but it will need surgery. Three phase motors are pretty robust , and this one is heavy duty in particular. The windings are likely to be good. You tube university will have some bod showing how to put a test meter on a 3 phase motor, diagnose it, and fix it - or similar. The motors run reasonably free , so with the brake and the belts loose off they spin by hand easily. If the motor binds then it needs attention. There are 12 wires coming out of the bell housing of my motor, plus two wires coming from the electric brake. I have seen about half a dozen of these machines - and none with replacement motors. The most roached out 1024 I saw had been dropped which bust out the motor mounts - which were then fixed by Dr Frankenfurter. The motor still ran. If the motor needs surgery then it is best to pull it out and work at it on the bench. I would work hard at it before dropping 1200 bucks. For that money I would probably think about a new motor with variable speed control . The adjustment may be for an export market version , but I doubt it. More likely someone has moddied it for some reason or other. Parts are sort of available in the UK but watch ebay for breaking machines. Good luck
Hi Tom, on your parts lathe was the secondary belt shot as I see it has been removed? I've had my 1024 for about 12yrs and the belt has never run true thus damaging one side. It is tight, however I can't see any way to adjust the tracking for the headstock belt even though you can on the motor belt?
hi darren on my main machine the belts have remained on. what you see me tinkering with on some videos is a spare gearbox - the belts are off if the belt has been made up correctly then is will be a perfect round band which will want to track properly - if it has been spliced skew whiff it will have a shorter and longer side and will not want to track check that all four mounting studs for the gearbox are tight down and the box is sitting true on the mounting plate. the front of the gearbox mounting plate is pivoted on a single bar running the full width of the mounting plate - it should engage fully in its mounts at both ends. if you open the electric enclosure box at the end of the lathe the bar should be all the way into the casting - if it has slipped out it will need sorting. I will attach a link for a picture of the setup on my donor lathe - the rear pivot bar had come out of the mount on the Left of the view if the belt is good, the gearbox bolted down, the pivot bar seated ..... then there is wiggle room for adjustment by tweaking the rear bushes (backside of the machine) - they are actually on cams, one on the left, one on the right .... those adjust the mounting pins which run into heavy duty rubber shocks allowing fettling mark everything up first so you have a starting point you can return to - take time, it will need a few cups of tea to tackle this one Shed guy
darren third try to sort the link - I might be pointing a hose into the wind hey ho drive.google.com/file/d/15jdjvEqUdWF_Kj5SgkHgcGQKrgFZ-Pyh/view?usp=sharing couldn't copy the link so have typed it out hope it works
Really enjoyed your thorough explanation of how these lathes work as I have recently purchased one of these. Have not yet got it home but know the main spindle belt is missing and wondered if you knew what the length was so I could have one made? Thanks
the secondary belt runs through the middle of the headstock, so if you had one made up then you would have to dismantle the machine to install. so in the instructions it shows how to install a length of belt, and then glue it together. I reckon my secondary drive belt is 62 inches long by 1 3/4 inches wide, and the manual specifies a plastic leather laminated type . You would need to allow overlap for joining. I seem to remember a video on you tube university. my belt has a gash in it which I expected to give up ..... but it keeps going
@@shedmade3264 high shed made have now got my 1024 home have discovered the green wires from motor to speed switch are completely rotten ,this is the low speed of the motor not knowing the 1024 yet do you think the low speed is needed this is an option to getting the motor rewound at 1200 dollars of course having every thing working is the ideal just thought id ask as you know these laths very well am looking forward to using this lathe my model has some differences ,the motor mount is different adjustment is under the badge at the front .are parts still available for these machines thankyou for sharing your knowage on youtube rgds nick aus
@@shedmade3264 Hi Tom, At long last, after nearly 12 months, I have finally gotten the motor rewound and back in the lathe with a variable speed controller. This seems to work ok. But now I have the issue of a drive belt running off the pulleys in about one revolution. I have made a belt out of leather and finally got the length right, but it unusable. Do you have any ideas as to the obvious cause and a remedy? You could save me a lot of time. Still enjoying your videos and learning a lot . Thank you.
@@nicktaylor9905 Good man you - getting closer. I haven't had this problem - yet. See what it says in the manual frustrating problem. check tension , not tight enough to twang, but not slack ... belt should have a little give. the pulleys are crowned, so the belts should self centre. if the belt is not joined up square then it will have a short side and a long side and track off - check that. cant pulleys
