10k oil intervals, debris being left in engines during manufacturing, and 0-8 oil makes me think Toyota is looking to make sure their vehicles stop lasting forever.
Yeah the way things are going none of these cars are going to be on the used market come 20yrs like how I can find a used 1990-95 camry or corolla. Hopefully I'm wrong I guess people can start dropping older motors into them or something 🤷♂️. Legislation is just murdering happiness in all industries
😂 just like Ford and Chevy right. Come off your high horse. Toyota engines have had 10k oil changes for 15yrs already in USA. And I’ve seen several modern Toyotas with 400k+ on the odometer. Change the oil it will last. That’s the only rule with Toyota engines. And debris found in one engine model out of 25 different engines is unfortunate but minor in the scheme of things.
These super light oils are designed to do one thing only, meet increasingly tough CAFE standards. Combined with "lifetime" fills really being just for the car's warranty period I don't trust these at all. The Toyota of today isn't the same as it was 20 or 30 years ago.
Idk if I’d say that. The 2023 toyota 4Runner’s still has tech that was used in the 90’s 4Runners’ like I’m talking Manuel 4x4 not electric like my Chevy or most vehicles today. And a belt driven fan, etc. I think Toyota is more just filled with guys who have no idea what they are doing lmao 💀
I'd rather optimize for the longevity of the engine than fuel efficiency, which I believe is the most plausible explanation for these thin oils. And as long as the owners manual outside the U.S. shows 5w-30 still as an option and not pretending it can only use one super low viscosity in the U.S. version, I'll keep ignoring my U.S. centric "recommendation".
@@FayeHadley so is it ok to run other than 0w20 in my mother's 2o11 Tacoma to try and STOP the nasty very cold weather engine start knock... She has the 4cyl auto with 90k miles and it has knocked on startup for many minutes in the winter for at least 30k miles, thankU Faye
(ok this will be long but hold on, got the whole explanation...) Fuel economy, as well as emissions. Even a perfectly sealed combustion chanber will release an extremely small amount of lubricant/oil and additives into the exhaust to be burned off and added to the emissions count meaning...to clean up the "emissions" we are making thinner and thinner oil, with less anti-wear additives. Whereas a good amount of zinc and other things are able to "stick"to metal and provide an extremely thin protective coating... Well, zinc and other things also "contribute" to emissions and stop/plug up the converter faster. So, the oil doesnt feel very slick, because it is not. One of my coworkers bought a newer prius, and she drives primarily on the highway. Not sure if this will be true for all of these engines or if its just because hers was built on a friday, but at 80,000 miles her piston rings were already starting to let go. Shed lose small amounts of oil here and there, and now at 90,000 miles, she has a very low compression number and lots of blow by. Take the oil cap off, and the blow by is severe enough to lift up and float the cap about 3 inches above the engine. Levitation....cool! What kills me is that she drives very slow... Ive ridden with her, and its...painful. Not sure if thats indicative of how the rest of these cars will wear, but... Just be mindful that they are trying to basically push us out of gas vehicles and into electric for various different reasons whether we agree or not. So yes, Faye is correct, the stuff is not very slick. It offers minimal protection, in exchange for less emissions and more fuel mileage. Generally, i tell people, imagine two swimming pools: one filled with pancake syrup, and another filled with water. Will you be able to run faster through the syrup or water? The water, and it takes less effort (robs less power from you). However, is it easier to hit your knee on the wall and injure yourself in the swimming pool with water, or the pool with syrup? Should be an obvious answer... Thats why some 5w30 oils will gain a horse or two over other 5w30 oils of the same supposed viscosity... Some are slightly thinner. Less drag, but also less protection. I understand all these teachers being told that "its all in the sheer strength not the viscosity..." And thats what they teach us in tech school, but ... While that rings true for a true grade 5 synthetic oil, a grade 3 oil bought from walmart or O'Reilly's will have 20% or maybe even less synthetic additive packages in it due to the fact that only a small percent of synthetic is required to be added to mobil 1 synthetic in order to write "full synthetic" on the side. 80-90% of the oil in that bottle still breaks down, loses viscosity (aka becomes thinner) and loses resistance to heat and loses sheer strength, the same way that dino oil does, because 80+ % of the oil, is non synthetic dino oil lol. The oils that have a higher grade of synthetic/ester will be the motul, redline, amsoil. Some being advertised ( and a few tested) as having an extremely high amount of synthetic ester oil and additives included. This explains why engines like fords ecoboost which lose timing chains in some of the f150s at less than 100,000 miles (had 15 so far that stretched or snapped around 80k)...the one owner i know who puts 10w30 or rotella t6 (decide for yourself if you really think thats necessary)... That engine is running and still good past 150,000. Our parts and tolerances have never gotten so tight that a simple 20w or 30w oil particle/molecule cannot fit in between the parts, our emission laws have just become much more strict, and we will do ANYTHING to have you think theres all these other reasons for making oils thinner and thinner. The epa wouldnt like a riot of 20,000+ people complaining about them ruining their cars durability, so theres better ways to handle this. Called teach people its a good thing. And then use emissions when that doesnt explain it well enough... 🤷 Funny though, the factories down the road shoot all types of toxic stuff into the air, i want to know where their filters and converters are? Its on the level of 10s of 1,000s of cars emissions coming just from one factory. But eh. Cant change the world, can we? Sources: lab technician for a little over a year, and a family member who is a field engineer for Ford motor company. Also have been a technician myself the last couple years. Really though, you can learn this stuff just youtube binge watching oil tests...dont need any tech or engineering exp to tell whats really going on. Having to source everything these days because noone has logic to believe whats quite obvious is really painful. Hope that helps anyone who reads it...5 grades of oil are made, and its up to us as consumers to decide what grade we think is necessary to protect our investment. Drive safe everyone
Yes and no. The zero weight oils are only available in a full synthetic you can't get it in conventional or synthetic blend. So the additives are far superior.
My Toyotas have been doing great with 0-16 and 0-20 for years. 200k on our Avalon, 131k and still going on our Corolla. Oil changes every 10,000. My Chevy took 5-30 and it was a clattering shitbox at 25,000 miles. I guess we all have different experiences, but I trust Toyotas judgement. These low viscosity oils have been in use overseas for quite some time.
I’ve googled and I keep reading that the new engine tolerances are so small it requires thin oil. Says if you use a 5w or different than required it says that cold days you won’t have adequate oil circulation. It says that pretty much everywhere. Who’s right? Just curious..
@@Roberob1189 that is interesting, good point to ponder!... it gets severely cold during the winter in my area... sometimes 50 degrees BELOW freezing... but the 0w20 oil in the 77k gen2 Tacoma 4cyl engine knocks bad at cold startups and I do Not know why or what to do about it!?
@Roberob1189 they said that about 5w-20 as well but if you add a dealer installed blower on the ones I'm familiar with they recommend 5w-50 to keep warranty and that blower did not open up any internal clearances so it's just café emissions and I have 178k on the 5w-50 oil
They will get down to water pretty soon instead of oil. Just be prepared to shell out cash when these engines grenade right at 60,001 miles, one mile past the powertrain warranty. From a practical engineering perspective you can only get so close in tolerance between metal to metal surfaces, you still need room for a film of oil for parts to ride on. But is there such a thing as too low viscosity?? I believe so. How much fuel you looking to save, 1mpg by making these systems so tight?? Doesn't make sense to me. Now if you were getting an extra 10mpg or more out of one of these 0W-8 engines then I'd say you got something there. Otherwise what's the point??
@@FayeHadley Faye, OWNERS do. 0W-40 Castrol Euro (Ester-based synthetic mfr'd in Belgium) shears down to a 0W-30 in use. The oil stays 0W in cold temps. Pour point is -60* F. IIRC. Has a stout additive pkg. Some other quality oils (certain Quaker State & Shell) oils are similar. Even little ole ladies / gents using quick-lube places can spec or buy their own 0W-30 or 40 oils from Wallies or Amazon if the quick lube does not stock a quality multi-weight oil. Far superior for longevity to 0W-8/16/20 which are all for CAFE reasons.
What I do in South Africa is the following. I look up the different grades of oil that my car is approved for in the manual. And according to the temp rating I will pick the middle or so oil. For example, the car came with 0w16. And it can also use 0w20, 0w30, 5w20, 5w30. I will then use the thicker grades as our temperatures rarely goes to freezing in winter. Never had a problem in almost 30 years. Our cars are all more than 10 years old. My old 93 Camry is still going like new
I live in a hot climate, I use the thickest allowed oil which is always 20W-50 for my cars. My "newest" car is a 2009, it has 400000 Km and it's in good condition.
Thanks for the helpful info. I live in SA too. And my Peugeot with a 3 cylinder Toyota engine, apparently can take many different oils, according to the user manual. So I was wondering which one is best for a while.
That is so refreshing to hear, that is how it was done back in the day. You have your summer and winter oil weight and can fall in the middle for other seasons. People and techs included forget this tried and true method.
I have seen the exact same engines have a reduction in viscosity of oil over the years, and the end result is the engines running lower viscosity oil always has premature timing failure and a lot of times camshaft failure. The reason I blame it on the lower viscosity oil is because, for example, Honda. The V6 was a timing belt. After the reduction in viscosity, there was more top end engine chatter. But it was a belt. So, the timing components replaced was still every 110,000 miles. The 4 cylinders are timing chain. When Honda used 5w-20, timing component failure was more along the lines of well over 100,000 miles. After they reduced the oil viscosity, the timing chain life drastically reduced. In all cases, the only change with the engines was the oil viscosity change. Nothing else changed. It's the same thing that people went through that drove older diesels when they changed to ultra low Sulfur diesel fuel. The older diesels were having injector pump and injector failure because the ID10T's in Washington didn't care what it cost the citizens. As long as they get their way and take away one of the most important anti-wear ingredients out of diesel fuel. I always do one grade above the recommended oil grade on almost everything. Especially if the engine has 100,000 miles or more. To be clear, I will NEVER put 0-anything in any vehicle I own. I always advise everyone I know to use at least one grade up from 0 such as 5w-20 or so.
@ivanbrasla MY opinion here. Yes. W is the cold viscosity. So, focusing on cold viscosity and a cold engine, the thinner the oil, the more quickly it drains back to the oil pan and the less lubrication left on parts at rest. So, cold startup has very little lubrication at startup. Slightly increased viscosity helps with that problem and is proven to by the fact that older versions of the same engine lasted longer and didn't have so much trouble as the same engine that was in a newer vehicle with a lower grade oil.
540RAT Engineering Blog says these oil (thinner than xW-30) are made not with the interest of longevity in mind. They don’t create adequate hot oil pressure when idling, they don’t have the mechanical wear protection that a highly ranked 5W-30 on his ranking list has… current #1 protecting oil off the shelf is Quaker State Full Synthetic 5W-30 (Not Ultimate Protection, must be 5W-30). Very distant choices would be Valvoline Extended Protection Full Synthetic 5W-30, Pennzoil Ultra from Natural gas 5W-30…
I've witnessed penzoil ultra platinum exceed quakerstate in a myriad of tests, including a lubricity test. Penzoil is the all-around best "off the shelf" oil, period.
@@InuranusBrokoff what is this lubricity test? And don’t say it was from RU-vid haha. I watch ProjectFarm too. This guy is a real aerospace engineer who happens to be a lifelong builder of flat tappet big block V8s…
The irony is Pennzoil now owns Quaker State yet Pennzoil never had any oil near the top of 540Rat’s wear ranking list. And it’s also more expensive at Walmart. So right now it’s a true performance value (which is rare)…
@@MrDLRu yes and the irony is Pennzoil has always sucked compared to QSFS 5W30. So that means that somebody at Quaker State knows how to make an oil that actually protects engines from actual wear and tear better than the rest. We can only hope they don’t cheap out and make it worse to increase profit margins. Thats the current trend the last couple years. Everybody got weaker at least 10% with Dexos Gen 3 oils…
Not when you do your oil changes at 16000 km they won’t. It only has to last past the warranty…. Remember, car manufacturers are not in the business of preserving the car they just sold you…. Their in the businesses of selling new ones. Facts
yea just remember modern auto manufacturer arent looking for longevity past 100k miles because they want you to replace your car every 2-5 years..I dont think the tech is advanced , I think the GREED has advanced.
If you look at the same cars offered in other countries like Mexico or Canada they have different emission standards. A Tundra that took 0W-20 or 5W-20 in the states could take that or heavier oils like 10W-20, 15W-40, or 20W-50 in some cases. It’s wild to see how emissions and “cafe standards” have pushed the need for thinner oils to eak the most “efficiency” out of vehicles for emissions, fuel mpg, etc!
Canada and the U.S. have had uniform emissions standards for cars and light trucks since model year 2011. A 0W20 or 5W20 would be the go to Tundra oil in Canada... if for no other reason that anything with a higher winter weight would have difficulty surviving a subzero startup in January.
Toyota is having seriouse engine failure issues in their tundras. Oil is too thin. They have also been having trans issues, between engine failure and trans issues over 300k cars have been recalled this year so far.
@@jamram9924 it’s no secret that fords build quality sucks. Toyota is the topic because they hold the title for most reliable brand. Which they were very reliable until they allowed emissions regulations and mpg expectations to push them into putting turbos on everything and thinner oils. Things like this will keep happening.
I’m curious on the longevity of the motors themselves. Being a Ford tech, our bearing clearances have gotten tighter over the years. But the Asia market has always been smaller, I’m curious on how well they are getting lubricated and heat dissipation will factor in.
The smaller clearances allow for the thinner oil, as bearings with tighter clearances have more load-bearing capability. Obviously, a 0w8 in a 1975 American what-have-you engine would likely suffer a premature death. A 0w8 and a .0025" bearing clearance would have a weak lubrication wedge. And, we don't have flat tappet lifters anymore, so the OHV roller valvetrain is unaffected by low visc. oil.
With all of the engine changes over the last several years, such as low tension piston rings, I am not too surprised by this light weight oil. But with that, it's even more important to check the oil level between changes. I've taught my kids the habit of checking oil level at each fuel fill-up. I don't know how many cars I have seen over the years that are over one quart low when they got brought in for service.
@@gregbarnett3141 Honda won't reflash the ecm unless you are in a "cold" climate. I've found highway drives at 30-40F to actually be the worst, it will rise by 1/4-1/3 qt after a 1000 mile road trip. Yes, diluted oil can be worse than running it low, better to have the lubrication as long as the system is pressurized.
@@jessematherly5617 when the engine burns the entire specified capacity of oil in that duration you just have to add oil not change it haha. If you add a qt every 2k for a 5 qt capacity you end up with only 40% of original oil at 10k miles.
I wonder how far it flies out of the pan when you drain the oil. My 5w20 flew 3 feet, just past the catch pan. 😂 I ran out of bad words. I sounded lie Yosemite Sam! Thanks for the info.👍
I'd pour that right into the garbage and get a real oil that's designed to keep my engine happy, instead of the EPA. If the EPA wants to pick my kid up from school and take me to get groceries then I guess I'll change my tune. These manufacturers are just making garbage to keep the regulators happy and selling it at a premium to stupid people who don't know better.
That would make sense if she wasn't talking about how famously reliable manufacturer Toyota is using this oil. I'd trust Toyota any day over some tech who is afraid of change.
Well, your car is old. That's good, not bad. The recent engines have smaller oil passages to adjust to the light oils they're running for more MPG. AND you have to check oil levels often because with light oils and low tension rings, many brand new engines use oil. Which is a different system than 50 years ago, not necessarily better.
Oh im glad you have a youtube channel. I just wanted to say, i watch your show with my daughter at least once a week. Shes only 6 months old... but im hoping to show her as she grows up that being a mechanic is cool for girls too. Thanks for what you do!
The United States requires manufacturers to specify energy conserving motor oil in all engines. A good example of where this defers is the old Toyota Land cruisers in the United States. The recommended oil was 10w30 in Australia. The exact same truck with the exact same engine was spec to use 15W40. I would see what Toyota recommends for these vehicles in Australia and use that oil. I would say Japan but I believe they grade their oil differently
Japan uses SAE, I've a car that has a factory fill of 0W-16 with recommended oil after that being 0W-20 with 5W-30 seen as the adverse conditions usage oil
I thought 0W20 was thin! Don't know why manufacturers have gone to these thin oils with long oil change intervals like every 10k. Seems like a recipe for engine wear.10W30 pretty much used to be the standard with 3k and 5k intervals. I'd love to tear an engine down after 100k miles of running this and measure clearances.
Fuel economy. Reduces drag on oil pump. I mistakenly used 5W-20 in my 2AR-FE (calls for 0W-20). Fuel economy dropped 30% (28-20) until the next oil service.
Remember. It's sales that come first. If this oil gets one more MPG then that's all they care about. It's someone else's problem if they fail 4 years down the road.
Oil Geek made a video on just this. The lighter oil did measurable damage to the engine, and the thicker oil cost no horsepower once the engine was warm. The lighter oil was so thin, more volume wscaped the bearings leading to higher windage drag. Admittedly on a race engine, but very interesting video.
Will do! These are all very new vehicles with 10k oil change intervals so it may be a while until I see one! Maybe I can have my lube tech friend help me capture this!!
@@davida871 10k is a typical manufacture's recommendation these days with newer oils. While I agree I don't want to wait that long it's the recommendation to customers who make their own decisions when to come in for an oil change.
Just a tip, auto failure is at an all time high for crap that we didn't have problems with only 20 years ago, I've changed more lifters and timing chains in the last 10 years than I did 30 years of my entire career. And this is very suspicious
The lower the viscosity the faster it flows, & the faster it flows off your bearings! I have seen tests showing that when a oil filter is not pre-filled using 0w8 moisture gets into the oil & causes more damage to bearing material at start up.
Planned obsolescence. I still use 5w over 0w as much as possible. It’s funny, My wife’s Subaru just crossed 200K on mostly 5w and everyone says it would be detrimental.
I run 0W-30 in my Forester with an EJ25 in the winter, since it can get down to 40 below and at that temp 5W-30 takes 3-5 business days to pour while 0W-30 is still somewhat liquid. Have to special order it from Amsoil at $45/gal but it still runs great with 183k miles on it.
I run 10w30 in my 2012 accord that calls for 0w20. I have an engineer friend who designs engines that yelled at me for still using 0w20 years, as he said it was strictly for emissions and accelerates wear@@Frog-ko6uu
Clear flood mode to start. Most cars you hold down the accelerator all the way, then start the car. This primes the oil pump and moves oil around the engine. I do it on my Subaru where I can’t pre-fill my oil filter after oil changes. Prevents low pressure start ups
@@efil4kizum it had 124000 when I got in 2010 bought it in Austin Texas for 900.00 right now i don't know how many miles it has off hand i need to check
My Toyota manual for 2007 HiAce recommends 15W40 or 20W50 for Australia.for extremely low temperatures,the engine may become difficult to start,so SAE 5-30 is recommended for -29 degrees centigrade to about 10 degrees centigrade.Note, 10W30 is energy conserving!
I'm guessing that the engines that use this oil will last a long time. If you never Rev them high, change your oil every 2500 miles, and rebuild the engine at 80-100k miles. In other words, there's no way that these engines will last under normal conditions with normal owners. And if there's a turbo involved, they're just time bombs
Somehow I knew when 0w-20 weight oil was introduced, 0w-8 wouldn't be too far behind. I'd wait a while to see how well this thin of an engine oil actually holds up!
I think its Some Impressive oil for being Very Low Viscosity Lake Speed Did some testing new used and A bunch of oil changes and testing On 0w-8 and 0w-16 over @The Motor Oil Geek
My only worry is the actual life span of the oil and how it can handle prolonged temperatures. Maybe toyota did something to the cooling system to assist this? Where i come from amything thinner than 5w30 would burn up if you ran it too hard during the summer heat
Modern oils are actually pretty good and can go quite a ways between oil change intervals. Would I do a 10k oil change? Nope, but doing it a few times over the ownership of the car won’t hurt anything. Did a 5k oil change on the wife’s BMW before the first 10k oil change and I was shocked that the oil still had a little bit of gold color in it. Viscosity and “thickness” of it still felt good.
I use 0w20 on my mazda 3, which has close to 266k miles. Runs great and shows no signs of wear. Idles like a new car and accelerates the same. Maintenance is the key
Did see a test between oils on the Oil Geek channel. These oils are designed to increase power and not protect the engine from wear in the longer term.
Newer cars in general are junk and they’re designed to fail!! That’s what I think and have been seeing in general, but I love your vibe and your videos in general. Thank you being you.!!!!
They reached peak longevity between 98-2005 ish Some were earlier, some lasted later. But in general, most makes had one bulletproof car in the lineup. People can trash on gm, but so many examples make it to 300k. 350, 4.3, 3.8, or the next generation 4.8-5.3-6.0....ford hadnt done the 3v 5.4 till after 02.....the single cam 4.6 wasn't powerful, but couldn't be killed (unless you overcooked it). Think about how reliable a 99 civic with a 5 speed was. Plenty of college kids went 20,000 miles on oil changes and those cars kept on going. Same with a 99 Toyota Camry, or Tacoma..... If it was never acceptable to burn a quart of oil every 1000 miles, but now thats just how it is on every make and model. Big pass.
How many order cars are still on the road if they're built to last? I haven't seen a car built before the 2000s in a long time unless I try very hard to spot them out in the wild.
I don’t think they’re designed to fail necessarily. They’re trying to make them more and more efficient to meet regulations, and better efficiency means: thinner and lighter materials, more complicated systems, thinner oil, thinner seals, plastic parts, and no oversized anything. On top of that people care more about what’s inside the cabin than what’s under the hood while wanting it cheap
@@----------------------------- I got a pre 2000s truck with over 350k on original motor and trans only major repair was a fuel pump at 200 k and rear end at 150k other than that still going strong
Hey Faye, that’s wild Thanks for doing this when I first saw 0W-8 I definitely was very curious. I don’t think I’d hesitate to buy a vehicle using that oil especially a Toyota. Hope all is well. Have a great one as always.🐔🐔🐔👍
They certainly won't last forever. Ask someone at your old dealership how many engines in the '21-today vehicles they've been having to replace lately.
@@atticstattic tell that to all of the owners of ‘23 Tundras dealing with rod knock issues within 10k. My buddy swapped 2 of them at his dealer in the last month.
With the tight bearing clearance less tension on the piston rings and this super light weight oil that lubricates like water then mix expansion and contraction with temperature no wonder I hear so much about the Hemis, the Hyundais and Eco Boost engines going bad before they even see 100,000 miles running 5W/20 oil and I also see a lot of cars smoking like they are burning oil…??? I used to be a machinist to a manufacturing engineer and I know a lot about heat treating the metal parts of an engine… This light weight oil just can’t be good on all the roller bearings either that are in the valve train… How about all the transmissions that are taking a crap too with there low viscosity oil…??? Can anyone explain this to me??? If this is all about gas mileage then stop buying trucks and SUV’s… I hate getting stuck parked between them and trying to pull out and not being able to see if anything is coming…
Honestly these tolerances are getting so tight it's bound to backfire sooner or later, cause that's just insane to trust a mass manufacturing process to be that consistent.
I got to hang out with oil industry chemists a few months ago. The amount of time they put into formulating & testing the base oil & additives is staggering. Besides lab testing. They test engines to failure, dissect, and do autopsies. Then go back and reformulate that oil to do better. Car manufacturers do the same. Take these new oils, test the engines to failure, then improve the engines. It's very impressive.
Sadly many manufacturers also spend lots of time in planned obsolescence for their products. Just bare minimum till warranty period and then fail the product after it so that customer is in the market for new product purchase
Of course they do but that doesn't mean they use the data to facilitate longevity. In fact, what they are trying to do is run the engines at the ragged edge of failure to guarantee a premature failure after warranty expiration. Maybe.
They’ve started using thinner oils because it causes less friction, therefore increasing efficiency, which makes emission better. I have no idea how Althea thinner oil will effect engine longevity, but as a automotive technician , if you don’t care about emissions, use AT LEAST 5w-20
They use thinner oil because of tighter clearances. Put in any other weight of oil and watch this motor seize or the valves and valve timing won't work.
Oh, they won't. I worked as a lube tech in northern MT... These new engines tend to not make it to 100k around here. Between all the fouling inherent with DI and the accelerated wear from running WD40 in the crankcase, a lot of stuff I touched was already really bad at 60-70. Tundras would come in very often with so much sludge in the crankcase that the dipstick came out crusty and dry even after filling with new oil. It's all a scam.
@@mikescherrer4923 that is bizarre! WOW... You should see the oil in my 27 year old Tacoma 5VZFE with 353k miles that has always had 5w30 conventional and then semi-synthetic in all this time
Yah I heard about it just got approved . I guess they are trying to get close to wd40 First I heard of something below 0w20 was 0w16 on my sons 2020 Camry.
My first experience with 0 weight oil was working with a APU on a 737-800. It’s used for the auxiliary power turbine in the tail structure of the aircraft. Sometimes needed at altitude, and it will be a cold start. But I never saw a failure.
viscosity is engineered into the motor. It is not an indicator of lubricating qualities. It indicates flow. Thinner oil goes into spaces thicker oil will not go.
When the 2.0l corrola first switched to 0w8 a year and a half or so ago we couldn't even get it. If it were my vehicle I would never use it, basically canola oil at this point
I don’t believe thinner oils ruin engines. Have a gentleman that has 600k on his v8 tundra running nothing but 0w20. I personally run 0w20 in my 8th gen Camry with zero issues . I’m sure u can run 0w16 in those new corollas that call for 0w08 and not damage anything
@@alibabaschultz352 0W-30 minimum, 0W-40 preferred. You may lose 1-2 MPG. Your engine will thank you. 0 weight assures quick pumping to the valve train in cold wx. Pour point is typically -50* F. Multi-weight oils shear down in use. A 0W-40 shears to a 35 or 30. A 0W-30 shears to 20. No way in hell I'd run 0W-8 in ANY motor, esp in TX. Google 'BITOG' Wealth of real word info.
Anything less than 0W-30 oil is asking for engine damage. Guaranteed you'll be replacing your engine before 100k. This stuff is mandated because of the EPA standards on car manufacturers.
I haven't had a ton of engine replacements that use low viscosity oil. I do see tons of timing chain failure in them, though. Now there is a good bit of oil consumption issues. But I blame that on 2 things. Oil viscosity for one. But mainly because the cylinder management systems on a lot of vehicles today.
@23salamander I semi-agree... The bearing tolerances may be made for it. But premature timing chain failure says that chains are not. But that's not the manufacturers problem. It's the consumer. Because in a lot of cases, the timing chain will last until it's just outside of warranty. Then it starts to rattle. I've seen it happen a lot.
You might save 300 dollars in fuel with the 0w-8, or 70 gallons. A brand new engine production causes more emissions than the 70 gallons of fuel's emissions. How the government is in businesses pockets is crazy. It is not about emissions. It is greed and planned obsolescence.
I run mine in 10w40. My Yamaha bike revved to 9000, made 100 bhp per litre and the engine oil lubed the gearbox. At 70,000 miles there was no measurable wear on cams or lifters. It had oil changes every 6000 miles using 10w40 semi synthetic. Full synthetic is allegedly better but to my minds is just another way to take your money.
I’m currently watching lake Speed on the total seal channel and he’s showing the latest on ring designs and compounds like plasma coded cylinder walls, because I think that’s mainly the importance of ceiling and lubricating the pistons. If you have enough pressure, you can float the bearings with just about anything but the cylinder wall rings is a different matter.
Meanwhile my 87 camry is running on 10-30 and at 393,xxx strong......same engine and transmission......eventually I'll get around to replacing the timing chain.....if it ever makes any noise! 😂 God i love this toaster oven of a car! ❤ Toyota means longevity, or at least it did in the 80's and 90's.
Like the transition from cast iron blocks, steel cylinders, and oil reservoirs to aluminum, silicone, and teflon coated cylinders in air compressors 😅 low friction pistons are our future
