@UpAllNight91 you recouped yourself with the rest of the vid I use the washer and fork seal driver to set bushing then slide sleal down and set it. Getting ready to service my 22 forks and possibly beef up valve stacks for snow season. This will be first ti.e haveing them apart. Was unsure about oil air bleeding and stuff. Your video helped a ton. Thank you
Thanks mate for the video, i do maintenance on motorbikes as well. It's nice to see that we both work almost the same way, although i live across the pond in the Netherlands. But motocross is universal. One thing i do different is the fork seals, SKF seals are the fork seals i use for every bike. For me these are the best fork seals, they last longer than OEM or other after market. Keep the video's coming, appreciate them. 👍
Thanks brother and right on! SKF are surely good seals and can last longer than OEM. On the Yamaha's the OEM seals don't squeeze on the tubes very hard which helps reduce friction but can shorten the seals life. SKF do squeeze harder on the tubes and that does extend the life of the seals at the cost of slightly more friction. For me I would use OEM or SKF, both are probably the best choices we have. Thanks for watching, hope you had a great weekend!
Had me laughing on using a condom for seal install and trying to explain to your wife, she's going to be like "really, you want me to believe that" or she's going to think you have a weird love of bikes. Either way your sleeping in the garage 😃👍Great vid.
so for the inner how do you know you didnt push to much oil out? im ocd as hell when comes to bike work i want exactly right amount of oil but i feel like theres no telling what your inner oil is at when its spraying out while your compressing it on.
Hello. It will only press out excess oil. If you dont do it before installing the inner chamber then it will do it on its own the first time the suspension is compressed. What I do is screw the lock nut on the bottom of the inner chamber all the down on the shaft finger tight and then compress the inner chamber as far down as it will go (exactly as seen in the video) and that does the trick.
I just replace the seals and bushings on my son’s Husky TE150. The rebound side did not get as hard to pull up as the compression side after I purged the air out. Was only hard for about 3-4 inches then it got easy but didn’t really feel like it had air in it. This is the first time I have ever done WP Explor forks is this normal or do I have something else going on. Thanks
@@tndeere2 Ok sorry. I have no experience with these forks yet but if they are a cartridge design you may need to stroke them a few good times to circulate the fluid through the whole cartridge. But yeah sorry, I havent worked on any of these yet.
I wish you would've done this video 2 months ago. With my son's 450RX fork rebuild we put the washer on the top side of the oil seal instead of below it. Needless to say, instant oil leakage when ride started. 😢
I do for customers that are guys i also ride with who trust me. Be it from helping them get thier bikes right or from just knowing me for years. But for others that might not understand I just use whats recommended. Its almost like a hidden insider secret lol
I have one friend/customer who rides hondas and after going back and forth between synthetic ATF and honda oil he now demands I use the synthetic ATF every time I service his forks
