Hey great video. My wife usually doesn’t watch this stuff. She started to watch with me. Both had a laugh. She loved your delivery. A laugh and some learning. Who could ask for more. Many thanks!
Nice work on a very challenging aspect of any Phantom build. At the risk of sounding pedantic, the front face of the engine is the compressor section and the turbines (which drive the compressors) are at the rear.
Even though you had some struggles in this area, this design and the fit is so much more refined compared to other model companies' approaches. Again, big shout out to the Tamiya design team!
While rummaging through Danny Coremans excellent F-4 book I found pictures on page 152: Believe it or not, Tamiya was right about the XF-2 on the compressor faces! 😱 The 8 prominent struts/guides and ring just in front of the first compressor stage have white paint on them. The bullet is aluminum and the blades have a titanium hue to them. Not wrong, but kinda wonky pointed out in the instructions…..and doubtful if ever seen in those deep intake trunks. 😄 Either way, I just wanted you to know. 😉
Your SMS light gull grey is dead on color wise. The tan color in it is overlooked by most modelers. Looking into the intakes they had a yellow to light brown "burn" from all the high speed air going through them. Almost like an age white burnt by being out in the sun too long. Great work so far. I have this one in my stash and watch your builds to give me heads up on what to look out for. Thanks for the videos.
@@m1a1hm Yep its Academy one. here in NZ its about 1/2 the price of the Tamiya one. Of course I haven't followed the instruction build sequence so I'm sure it will bite me in the rear end,
@@kiwiruna9077 Yeah i hear you for the money the Academy kit is pretty good. The Tamiya is a little prices for me but it is a great kit. And yeah i did the same thing when it came to the instruction sequence. The rear landing gear is a little tricky but not to bad. Academy should have done a better job on them.
When I watch your vids Matt, it blows me away. Your use of color layers to get the desired effect your after makes me shake my head. How did you learn your use of color techneques?
I know this is a corny question but can you please do a small video on how to mix Tamia paints for any other car for that matter. I’m having a really hard time getting my paint thinner ratio to where it will flow easily out of my airbrush. Thank you
5:23 To be fair to tamiya some of the J79-GE-8 engines have the variable intake guide veins painted white but most had them in raw aluminium, The actual compressor turbines are pretty hard to see when the guide veins are at a high angle of attack like when the engines are at idle or shut off.
I have just finished this model and although it is the best phantom kit out there I had some areas that were problematic. The bottom fuselage panel from the nose gear bay to the wings was either warp or something was obstructing it from sitting true. Some gap filling was required. Next the exhaust nozzles, the individual panels can't have any leftover sprue tabs and just don't seem to fit well. I had an hell of a time lining them up. But lastly, the main canopy will not sit properly and has wide gaps and I cracked the fucking thing installing it. Yes the very last step of the build ugh. I think if you close the canopy all the interior canopy pieces must be omitted. Otherwise than these three things the kit was great.
Awesome work mate. You have probably already covered this but what thinners, thinning ratio, needle size and air pressures do you use. If you can't be stuffed regurgitating material already covered, just point me in the right direction.
Well...it depends. On the paint, time of year, temperature, humidity, what I'm trying to do, etc. But...generally: Thinner - Gunze Mr Leveling Thinner. I will VERY occasionally use something else, but that only happens like once a build, if that. Thinning Ratio - Very heavily paint dependent. With MRP, maybe a few drops if any. With Gunze and Tamiya, my starting ratio is 2:1 thinner to paint. Needle size - Depends. The PS-771 is .18. My PS-290 is 0.5. Air Pressure - Also depends. But I'm almost always somewhere between 10-20 psi.
I can't seem to find anywhere on my instructions that it says to remove the ECM bumps. I look at the instructions and notice they aren't depicted on the sketch, but no mention to remove anything. What am I missing?
Step 21, right below the 21. It's small, there's no words calling it out, and it's very easy to overlook (as I did, and as a ton of other people have).
I really love your work and knowledge. I’d even love it more if my two young sons could watch with me. Lol Is there a chance a less profanity? Just asking. Tan man
