1 Year of Toyota PARTS CANNON...Long Crank When HOT? (Part 1 - 3rd Gen 4Runner) 

This video gave me the excuse I needed, to not go out and shovel in this blizzard. Wish it was longer.

Congratulations on 200k subscribers

Amazing! I can't believe that it runs so nice with fuel pressure that low and that the computer can compensate that much. Looking forward to part two.

You & Eric O are my fav car guy's So smart , honest ,genuine and very hardworking . Ivan i hope its a fast journey to a million subscribers. You deserve to get that heated shop !!

19:38 is where Eric O. says "Well there's your problem, lady!"

If I ever bring my vehicle to PHAD. I'm going to bring the vehicle in the summer so I can sit and drink cold beer. While I watch the video live.😆😆 Great job as always Ivan.

I thought we had another Camry, but this is a whole lot different. "Weakest fuel pump ever" risks to be an understatement - 550mA?? Great diagnostic Ivan! Can't wait for Part 2 🙂

Congrats on getting to 200K subs man! Another crazy case study for the master to help us learn with. Thanks for all the great content lately.

I'd also check fuel pump connector for corrosion and pin fitting, and check pump one more time by feeding it good power and ground before condemning the pump.

My experience with owning Yota trucks is they almost never leave you stranded, but hunting down oddities such as this one for the mechanically inclined dyi like me usually turns into the parts cannon and frustration. I've also learned more from your content about modern vehicles than any other channel I've discovered. Thank you for your hard work and sharing your knowledge.

Hey Ivan, just wanted to say that I have been liking your videos a little more than usual. I don't know what it is but keep up the great work! One critique, don't let us wait so long in between different parts! 😅

Congratulations on 200 k subscribers, Ivan! Always enjoy your videos….thanks!

BRAVO on such amazing diagnostics. Love your videos, your patience, your knowledge, your experience and your LOGIC.

Very interesting final check on the pump draw.

Sr. Ivan. I thank you for all the knowledge that you share with us. Lost job and I need income so now I’m doing some repairs with friends. I live in California, too many shops. Unfortunately many costumers are cheated every day, from bad mechanics.

You probably couldn’t hear Me, but I was suggesting to check the fuel pressure early on, especially after the first bean test. But at the same time I was thinking after all work that was done, someone surely covered that base. So I was right, and wrong at the same time! No access panel for the fuel pump? WTH. I had a Highlander of that same vintage, same engine, still kicking myself for selling it. Great stuff as always. 👍👍🇺🇸

I really appreciate you vocalizing your logic. It is very helpful in building a grasp of your diagnostic process. Thank you!

18:03-I worked at Toyota when these were new and was really amazed wrenches didn't ever hit that battery post and roast a few vehicles and we tied the injector cleaner tool in there often.

I had the coolant hose problem before with a Tacoma after a had gasket failure. I attributed it to oil mixing with the coolant and softening the rubber. I had to replace every hose on it. The entire cooling system was a mess of oil/coolant mixture. I had to flush it several times.

Will have to check out p2. Love the old Toyota trucks currently working thru a P2138 intermittent on my 03 tacoma. Good job Ivan and thanks for the content

My car has similar issues and symptoms but it's very rare for the issue to show up. Doesn't want to idle on hot start without giving it some gas. Excited to see repair on this one.

I like the redundant testing.. You not only have pressure drop, but also it's pulling low current. I'd feel a lot better about dropping that tank after seeing both tests. Very nice. :)

Been waiting for this one to post. Hope he told you I guessed it right.

Thanks for this upload Ivan. I’m a Toyota fan also....especially that model. I’ve a 1992 Hilux Surf SSR-G 3.0 V-6 parked in my Tokyo garage.....maybe a 1st gen model? Loving your diagnosis regimen.

Great work! I was with you on this one - so many are over my head......

200K! Hell yeah. Congrats Ivan!

Customer complaint is, I'm wanting to buy the newest model but this damn thing just won't die!

Another interesting issue. Looking forward to part II.

I took my printouts to my neor/sleep doctor. She said I have much better information than they do. She said she learns something every time I visit. Makes me wonder who should be paying.

Good that you called yourself out for mis diagnosing the fuel pressure drop as a line leak

The swollen hose was likely from the trans cooler leaking inside the radiator early in its life. EPDM material on the coolant hoses do not play well with petroleum products. Saw that happen a few times on these.

Hi Ivan. If that fuel pump is like the ones used in the sienna mini vans. Toyota oem pump costs around $1,100.00 give or take a little. I have learned so much from watching your videos. Keep up the great work. I wished that Toyota would put in a nice easy fuel pump access plate in those types of auto's. The Sienna Mini vans are the same way. You have to drop the tank.

I’ll be waiting for part #2. Thanks again

Awesome! Yup, low fuel pressure will give all kinds of problems. My car had the hot soak problem. It was the fuel pump!! I was lucky, don't need to pull the tank in the 2004 Lincoln Town Car.

After 175K miles I am not surprised it needs a fuel pump. I should think one should be replaced after 150K miles, as it is a wear item. On to part 2! Very good, interesting diag work, Ivan!

I hate fuel tank issues... They suck. Go get 'em, Ivan! 😎😎😎

Back in the day, the 87 Buick GNATs needed all the flow and pressure you could get when putting in bigger injectors, or raising the regulator pressure delta vs boost pressure. Either with a bigger pump or stock, we would measure the voltage and see .4 or .5 of a volt drop from the battery voltage, so from 14 to 13.5 example, at the back of the car, sometimes worse. That or more was enough to fight for and would have an effect on pressure and volume under high demand conditions (full throttle, max pulse width, 20+ psi boost). The most popular early fix for mild hp cars was a fuel pump wiring and relay kit. We’d run thicker wires (fused) from the battery power block back to just before the pump, and use a high amp rated relay to power the pump, using the former wires that powered the old pump to activate the better relay. This way the ECM and associated electrics still controlled the pump. This made a big difference in how a stock or upgraded pump would perform at higher pressures.

High current might indicate a flow problem. Good call and thanks for teaching us to stick with the diagnostic tree and not to jump to the parts cannon. To me this looks like worn impellers on this 21 year old beast.

I have an old Ford with 2 tanks. Both have cheap fuel pumps in them. Both run low fuel pressure, but I have issues with cold starts. Warm starts are fine.

A handful of Toyota pumps of that vintage where the electric motor is fine but the pump portion failed ( impeller/vanes) Low amp draw along with pressure and volume. Looking forward to part #2.

Just one last check to do before replacing the fuel pump would be to see if you can power up that higher amp tail light bulb makeshift tester that you have. Just because you see 12v on the test meter, it doesn't mean anything if those wires can't carry a current. Those bulbs should be nice and bright if those wires are any good in testing the fuel pump's power and ground.

Ivan, I love your videos and want to keep seeing them too. Please never use a metal catch tray, esp with pos battery terminal. Use a plastic container next time and hang it on the garage door top track rail for future use. Safety first, please. Yes I know you are very cautious, but stuff happens when we get older hands shake or what have you. Old coke or pepsi bottle.

hey Ivan, i hope you're having a great weekend.

You're definitely on the right track!! Thanks Ivan!!

My old 02 6.8l f250 had what I call a soft fuel pump failure. I was looking for the cause of a fish bite misfire at steady cruising, in the beginning it was only at 35-40 mph, over 2 years it grew in speed range. I did find 2 bad COPs but the fish bite remained. I checked fuel pressure with no load and it was perfectly in spec. I tested the regulator and it worked perfectly. When the fish bite got really annoying I did all of the same fuel pressure tests and got the same results so I put it in drive set the parking brake( my gauge has a short hose that didn't reach the windshield and I was alone) and just as the parking brake cable snapped I saw the pressure drop to 20 psi. Until that point I had max pressure on acceleration and above minimum at idle, in gear or out of gear.

So it's a half baked pump, less pressure than a farting mouse :) Unless the pump ground is frayed under the vehicle and it would be hot remaining strands. No the pump is crap lol.

When my dad retired he took the caravan to France and did a season skiing. Anyway i went to stay with him for a week. On the way back from the airport he said somethings up with the car it wont go over 67mph and keeps kangarooing violently. Anyway he'd bough a load of parts plugs leads and changed them still did it. Two days later we went on a day trip and the car was literally kangarooing up really steep hills we gave up half way on the trip. The next day we took the carb to bits checked all the jets etc float etc screen. Still no difference. Anyway i took the fuel hose off the carb and on cranking it was dribbling out, then i took the fuel filter off and it shot across the carpark about 15feet. I said dad has the filter ever been replaced " well no" and he had done about 80 thousand miles without changing it. When we cut the old plastic filter open it was totally blocked with black stuff 😂 Fitted the new 2euro filter and fixed 😂

Dont forget to thump that merch, maybe even see if someone could design a secondary logo. I was thinking orange pine trees up the sides going to a point with pine hollow written in the middle kinda like a tunnel shape. Full size on a black hoodie. Just an idea.

Ahhh, a blizzard special! Getting my cappuccino ready now. Let's goooo!!!

Those 3.4’s have one o2 sensor and one a/f sensor.. the o2 is a typical 60$ hollar but the a/f sensor looks like a typical o2 sensor but cost 3x as much because they trigger quicker and respond quicker.. according to toyota.. mine wouldnt run right until i paid the 162$ for the a/f sensor then stopped running lean all the time..

That coolant reservoir hose has been contaminated with oil of some kind. Radiator hoses do the same thing when trans coolers start leaking into the cooling system.

It just doesn't quit! You get your share of diagnostic treasures. My bet is on the injectors and possibly the fuel pump/regulator. The old injectors might be OK because the new ones are flowing more than spec to keep it running disguising or even causing the low fuel pressure.

That fallen hose is OEM and common to come off on most 4runners (3rd gen). I put a cable tie to secure it and it holds!

As always, excellent diagnosis! 👨🏻‍🔧 Ivan! Do you ever feel nostalgic for the Russian winter))) 😤🥶😤 ?

At least the Fuel Line Quick Connect Fitting didn't keep popping off inside the Fuel Tank. This actually happened on my 2010 Land Rover LR 4. I Subsequently replaced the Quick Connect Fitting and Fuel Pump, but it was a nightmare diagnostic procedure.

Been years, but i had similar issues with clients GM truck. It was the hose from pump to metal feed line in tank assembly. It was rotten and split. Amp draw threw me, yet it did guide me dropping fuel cell and inspecting pump assembly where i discovered split hose. I'll be Standing By.

I have seen the issue with the overflow pickup tube before. May be a difference in the type of antifreeze. That vehicle originally had green now red, mine was the opposite but same result.

I think I would try using your bench power supply to feed the fuel pump. Changing the voltage from 13 v up to 16 volts and watch the fuel pressure. Do this to try and prove whether it is the fuel pump itself or possibly a damaged wire restricting current to the pump. Test before replace.

Very cool thanks Ivan, I've had this on the 4cyl 2700i Toyotas before, the pumps don't like to run dry at all and if they do they often start to lose pressure then become noisy, the Jeep 4.0 on the other hand will lose power with the slightest drop in fuel pressure🙂

Your the best Ivan! Thanks!

Before you drop the tank, you have to get under the rear seat and go through the hatch and unplug the connector on the top of the tank. The harness is to short to undo it while dropping the tank. Why Toyota gave us to that tiny hatch just to unplug it and not big enough to get the tank unit out is nuts. The pump voltage supply and ground run in the door sill along the driver's door. Pull up that plastic sill to get access to it.

Sounds to me like you have a fuel leak inside the tank, leaking fuel from between the pump and the outlet... A worn pump would have higher ampage due to mechanical wear .A low ampage means the pumps spinning easely, doing very little work. Same reading as you would get if the vehicle was out of fuel....looking forward to the next part

Nicely done man!

18:30 Kind of risky doing this @ your home what if you hit that positive battery terminal ? I had a buddy who worked on cars in his families home garage and they had a car fire. Changed his and his family's life forever.

Thanks for the video Ivan.

i thought all euro cars made fuel pump replacement easy! glad u keep the mistakes in

We had a 2002 S-10 with a 4.3L that had a very similar problem. Hard starting but ran good. Fuel pressure would drop while revving up the engine. Ended up being the fuel pump. One of the pump motor brush springs was broke and not putting enough pressure on the brush.

Love this channel

Reading that email at the beginning is like a near perfect description of my symptoms for my 2000 Tacoma 3.4L. Given my truck has 245k miles on it, I'd dare say I just need to replace the fuel pump just as a matter of maintenance schedule. Might as well replace all the gaskets and seals for the EGR components on the top of the fuel tank at the same time. I'm getting the EGR codes when it's real cold and windy outside so I imagine the tank is leaking vacuum when the seals get hard and shrink. **Meant EVAP not EGR. 😅

When you went to check the throttle body for gas fumes, I almost thought I heard you say perfume. I'm thinking that Ivan loves his Shell #5. lol. Anyway, is there a fuel filter on those things? That too could cause a low fuel pressure issue if the fuel filter is clogged. But you checked for voltage and amp load. Only 1 amp draw? That ruled out back pressure from a clogged filter or pinched line. It's the fuel pump alright. "She's dead Jim".

I had the same problem on a 1990 Mustang 5.0. Fuel pressure would fall off when the engine was shutdown. It was a hole in the rubber fuel line in the tank. It was basically bleeding back into the tank. I replaced the pump and the rubber lines. The car ran like new.

We had a car with bad fuel pump (no one checked). Started when cold (got extra fuel), started when hot (easy).But if you went to a shop for 20 min it wouldn't start, you had to wait for 20-30 min, then it started again.

great way to think abt open loop.. choke parameters...

Great diag Ivan!

Arm chair mechanic.. Could you measure the voltage closer to the fuel pump? Maybe a but unlikely a wiring problem between the relay and the fuel pump?

What about the fuel filter. I think this vintage still has one. I mean that doesn't explain the pressure drop off. But it can affect pressure.

I would liked to see a scope trace of the fuel pump current. You can spot a bad pump motor that way. I also would have like to have heard the pump. I had one that went thunka-thunka-thunka. Easy diagnoses, not so easy repair.

Ivan, if I may. How much time between shooting a video on a diag or repair until it is posted on your channel?

I predict pinhole leak in fuel hose going from the fuel pump the fuel distribution assembly inside the gas tank or a clogged fuel pump strainer sock. also a possible pinched fuel line under the truck.. a fuel flow test would be interesting.. he may have low pressure and low flow.. when you deadheaded that pump the pressure should have gone alot higher until it hit the bypass.

I'm honestly surprised that running so lean for so long didn't cause internal engine damage. I'm seen many engines melt pistons and other parts from running too lean.

I have a feeling it's the timing chain . It is out of time as I had a neighbor once back who had one of these and she had the issue of starting seem to get longer and longer and hard to start. Turns out her timing chain was starting to stretch ...

Apart from a blocked filter or pickup screen, could there be a crushed fuel supply pipe or a partially clogged fuel supply hose?

On the evap code the issue is going to be the gas tank. I threw the parts cannon and the last thing i replaced was the tank. It had a Very Very small pinhole at the top.(probably due to our PA rust lol)

imho With the fuel pump pickup clogged, it would at least come to pressure and only drop under load. Right?

Years ago my Toyota Celica with 160K stopped running, took it to the Toyota dealer and they replaced the fuel pump.

Ivan, I'm surprised you didn't examine the fuel lines for obstructions or kinks. I was thinking about the video a couple years ago of the junkyard car that had 5 fuel pumps thrown at it and you found that the fuel hose was twisted or pinched.

You can check the fuel pump rpm with a scope and low amp clamp compare to know good pump rpm

As long as I've been involved with electric fuel pumps and electronic engine control, I could never understand why fuel pressure was not monitored and a possible dtc would be set for low fuel pressure. There must be a reason, maybe someone could explain.

I know it’s not his hot start problem but those engines kill head gaskets and that small amount of oil in the coolant will always blow up that hose in coolant bottle

Not so lucky hey bud lol you always have such good luck its nice you suffer once in awhile lol😮

It looks like a fuel pump. On to part 2.

High resistance in fuel pump ground side perhaps.

The only thing I hate about the Toyota 3400 V6 Is where the thermostat is located at which can be a real royal pain in rear to get it to work correctly and that stupid jiggle valve

I thought I’d better mention the brake fluid also looks low and dirty in the reservoir.

Where does "Teeyota" come from? I hear quite a few people say it that way.

Toyota super long life coolant attacks rubber and plastic when it gets old. That is likely what happened to the overflow hose.

The low pressure and amp draw tells me the pump is under very little load. I'll bet the hose from the pump in the tank is split.

Stuck open purge valve is going to be my guess based of symptoms

a real Toyota Hecho en Japon.

I suppose the pump could just be weak or it's flowing right back into the tank from an internal leak that could explain the low draw