Hey. I just wanted to know. I’m wearing a black tuxedo for an event. Should the bow tie and cummerband colour (black) match the lapel. I know it will be the same material. But even in black there are different shades. Thanks
A wing collar is perfectly acceptable with a black tie ansamble I think, you saw it more often in the 1920’s and 30’s. So if you want to ad a more vintage touch go for a wing collar. And if you are st it ad a nice low-cut single-Breasted waistcoat.
Very nice review of the essential rules of the black tie uniform. Well done! My minor additions: #3a: A scooped, u-shaped vest is a more bespoke alternative to the cummerbund. #3b: Keep your jacket buttoned when standing-you're not supposed to see the vest or cummerbund. #8a: Make sure the fabric for the stripe down the side of your trousers matches the fabric of your lapel/tie-meaning, grosgrain with grosgrain lapels, not satin with grosgrain lapels. #8b: While plenty of guys wear double vents on a tux as the "modern take" you cite, the absolute classic look is ventless. #9a: Patent leather is far preferable to just a well-shined pair of ordinary dress shoes. The whole point of a black tie outfit is to be different from "regular" dressy clothes, and that literally means from top to bottom.
Bruce, thank you for adding your comments. This video had me a little concerned about a tuxedo I purchased from two very reputable clothiers (Balani Clothiers & Judd Frost Clothier). I wanted to take a moment to reinforce your post in case there is anyone else that may have concerns about your comments. My tuxedo's intended use is for my upcoming wedding, and continued use attending corporate galas in the Twin Cities. The clothier that supplies my Samuelsohn tuxedo strenuously objected to peaked and shawl lapels, and satin, stating the gross grain notched lapel is the most universal for all occasions and the emerging trend. They also strongly objected to cummerbunds, but fully support vests provided they are of the exact same fabric & style of the tuxedo coat & trousers. With regard to shoes, you described shoe selection almost exactly the way Balani Clothiers discussed shoes, which is where I purchased my shoes and studs. They supplied me with a custom version of the Magnanni Cesar which have a combination of patent leather toe and heel, and soft Napa leather on the vamp, with rounded toe cup. They are by far the most comfortable and eye-catching formal shoe I've ever found.
Note to self after watching this video: start seeking out black tie events to attend in 2021! lol. Like you, I LOVE dressing in a tux. Well done, once again.
Tuxedo stories!! 1. My mom thinks that the satin strip down the pants, make them look rented. I don’t know where she got that idea… 2. My husband bought a $600 tuxedo the day before my sister’s party. It checked all the boxes except for the lapel being notched. But worth it. More on that below. 3. After extensive research on suits, it’s interesting to see people make fun of what they don’t know. I have a cousin that got married in a tuxedo. At my sister’s party, a formal event, my husband wore his tuxedo (I wore an evening gown with long satin gloves). My cousin was making fun of the bow tie. Like… it’s a formal event. How does he not know that a bow tie goes with a tuxedo if he got married in one…? 4. People say it’s not worth it because you only wear it once. Not true. A friend (70?) lives on a street with a lot of older people. They do this monthly “progressive driveway” where the home owner has a dinner party for the block, and every month it’s at a different neighbor’s house. Because everyone has that “one time use tuxedo” all their dinners are now black tie. How cool is that!?!? You can always make or find a reason to wear one. 5. Gatsby Roaring 20s theme party. He wore it to my mom’s 60th. I’ll probably use that theme more often, just to see him in his tux 😍 6. At a company masquerade Christmas party, he wore his tux and everyone was complimenting him for it. From male co-workers to his boss’s boss’s boss. 🥰 7. The following year, the company party was also a Gatsby Roaring 20s theme. He wore the same tuxedo and also got many compliments from everyone he spoke to. He’s MY arm candy 😊
Funny stories and I had to smile several times since I made similar experiences. So here are my tuxedo stories. 1. I bought my first tuxedo back in 2014 when I made a business trip to Shanghai. I never before wore one or had the opportunity to do so. I have been living in Shanghai some years ago and already knew the tailor where I wanted to buy the tux. Knowing the low price for it, something around 100 Euro at that time, it was kind of a calculated experiment. So why not? Here in Germany the tuxedo is called "Smoking" due to its origins as a smoking jacket. So seeing a sign stating "No smoking!" in front of the stores entrance with a dummy wearing a tuxedo (Smoking) right next to it was a bit confusing for a second. 2. As said before I never wore a tuxedo before but when I put it on a few days later it just struck me how good I looked in it. Of course I had no idea how the details should look like and after some research on that topic I found out that some things had to be changed: silk stripes down the pants, buttons for suspenders and the pants length. At the end the alterations cost me the same as the tux itself. 3. Having a tux in the wardrobe is useless if you don't know how to tie a bow tie. I am usually considered to have a workable brain and some decent manual skills but learning how to tie a bow tie properly was quite a hard thing to do for me. I was surprized how much I wanted to learn this skill. 4. At a company Christmas party some years ago there was no dress code but I chose to wear my tuxedo. The location was located nearby the harbour of Hamburg, a bit fancy and I just wanted to wear my tux. Of course I was the only one and got lots of compliments for it. I also wore the tux for the following company Christmas parties and it was always the same. My boss sometimes has to wear a normal business suit but even he was not aware that this was not a normal suit but a tuxedo. He just realized that there was something different to the suits he was wearing from time to time. 5. With that experience I realized that almost nobody knew about black tie rules so I started to break or ignore them a bit. So I left the cummerbund at home and put on my blue Omega Seamaster 300. When my colleagues told me that I looked like James Bond and asked where I got my Walther PPK it opened up another occasion to wear the tuxedo: as a costume for a masquerade party. 6. At one occasion, again a company Christmas party, my mood was different and I chose to wear a suit instead of the tuxedo. That suit was made of a shiny gray fabric and usually draws some attention to it. When I entered the party almost everyone asked me why I didn't wear the tuxedo. It obviously took me only a few times to make the tuxedo my hallmark for that kind of occasions.
For those venturing into the realm of Black tie events for the first time, this video is a well done primer on the basics. Whilst I understand Brian's endeavor to educate and equip new wearers of formal attire with all that they need, we must take into account that in 2022, even at holiday gatherings and weddings, athleisure has become the de facto order of the day. Despite what an invitation may read, one should always expect that there will be those who want to display their originality. We now live in an Instagram / Pinterest/facebook world where most people fancy themselves internet influencers, of some kind or another. Said reality now dictates that few will follow the rules set out in this primer. It's important to note, by the way, that there is no governing board or fashion police officer that will be enforcing said rules. If someone is rude enough to attempt etiquette shaming someone , then that person deserves the tongue lashing of ones choosing. Having said that, most, if not all, of the rules that are being espoused here were put in place at the height of America's gilded age and were filtered versions of antiquated Victorian era classicism. The gilded age, by it's very definition, was designed to expressly exclude those deemed undesirable by Mrs. Astor and social ladder climber, Ward McAllister. The question becomes, then, is it time to relax the practice of passing judgment on those who choose their own sartorial path, especially in a society where fashion trends democratize and lead our social experiences?
Standards and etiquette aren't classiest, its about holding yourself to a certain standard and doing what's objectively proper. E.g., mismatched lapels and bowtie materials are discordant and not aesthetically pleasing, or not observing buttoning etiquette will lead to an improper look and fit.
@@jamesrosewell9081 standards and etiquette are, by the very definition, classicist. They are rules and standards that were put into place by the upper class, not any lawmaking or governing body of any country. Looks and fit aside, the term upper crust and cream of the crop, we're designed as a way to differentiate oneself from another class.
Nicely done. Yes, the rules for winged collars changed seemingly in the 1950's and so now you'd be correct. However, they are not only acceptable but preferred for some period events. Wherein their usage would indicate a better grasp of the period style trends.
Excellent video, Brian. I find it very straightforward and detailed enough so that I don't screw up my look again at a black tie event. Hopefully someday I'll get it "just right" (finally).. Many thanks.
What I love about black tie and formalwear in general is that from silhouette and overall appearance, there is a uniform look but more personal details are just that. If you wear red enamel cufflinks, that's going to be the people close to you (physically and figuratively) notice. It's not screaming out to the world.
Nice video Brian. I love these hyper specific videos as a lot of videos on more general topics by other men’s style creators cover things I’ve already heard a million times.
I like what you said but You need to add a few things. The jacket should hand no vent, the paints should have a matching galon, no belt loops, suspender buttons, and no back pockets.
great video man! i think i probably won't have to wear a black-tie outfit anytime, not that i can foresee haha. but always great to know the dress code! cheers!
That's what I wear. Had it made as part of my bespoke tux. A subtle way to differentiate yourself from all the cummerbunds. But it has to have a scooped, u-shaped front. Under no circumstances get one that looks remotely like the vest you'd wear with a business suit.
Black tie dress is the absolute best look for a man. I agree no fake ties, buy a real bow tie and learn how to tie it. It is easy. A proper dress shirt , studs and cuff links. Great video as always. I wear a dress watch black strap.
He Spoke Style ha. No, that other post had an autocorrect. It says five watches don’t look good, was supposed to say “dive watches” don’t look good with a tuxedo. I’m all for the watch and tuxedo. I embrace my American heritage.
On a roll these days Brian! A question, when in a pinch, what would be the best way to attend a black tie event if you don't own a tux? Best formal dark suit with a dark tie (and letting the host know beforehand I guess)? - Han
I don't know about people in other countries, but as a person in a semi-rural town in England I find that most charity shops(I think this equates to a thrift store), have a rather good variety of dinner suits, varying in size, quality and style. Often they are rather good deals. Also, most towns around the size of mine tend to have about 7 of these shops, so you'll usually find an acceptable dinner suit in an afternoon; I understand that fit is very important but I haven't had my dinner suit which I bought in one such shop and I'd say it fits well enough(I would have it altered but I'm not fully grown so it'd be a bit of a waste of money). That was a bit of a ramble, sorry.
@@nateranger783 Thanks for the suggestion! Admittedly I have not properly checked out my local charity/thrift stores back when I was in Korea, so I cannot comment on what the quality and variety I could have found there. I do however, believe that most Koreans would have rented one when needed, as the only time one would wear a tuxedo is for their own wedding. Tux rental is usually thrown in for free with bridal dresses (anecdotally, people around me all rented theirs for their wedding). And unless one has an interest in menswear or is involved with a classical orchestra, I don't think there's really any other time we would be required to wear one and thus spend money on one. Of course, to reiterate, this is just what I have experienced personally. Buying a tux isn't number 1 on my list right now, but I guess I'll keep an eye out when I visit thrift stores here in the States!
As a self proclaimed strict rule follower what is your take on wearing midnight blue as a substitute for an actual black tuxedo? To be honest I cannot justify the purchase of a Tuxedo given I do not go to black-tie formal events.
@@hespokestyle What I'm saying is- I trust you about the history (ex. wing collar only with white collar). Regardless, the rules you lay out work great from an aesthetic preference, and your personal execution of them is amazing!
I'm quite the rule breaker, but I agree all the way. Black tie IS a uniform and to break all rules ruins the entire point. It's time for your woman to shine, not yourself or other men. Great middle ground with the watch question too, but that's no surprise coming from you, Brian!
for the tuxedo studs and cufflinks, am i able to wear mother of pearl instead of the usual black onyx? i am just thinking for my upcoming wedding. or is that a purely white tie event thing? thank you
Will you ever check out ministry of supply products. I’ve always wondered if their price tag is worth the “new technology” they claim to have made. Thanks !
I think that I've seen a couple times recently in tuxedo that I lshe knows that I like is maroon or burgundy burgundy shirt with black lace ( having a blouse like maroon with black lace look) paired with a bright Royal blue jacket and pants.
I watched the GQ tux expert video a while ago. I like what he said about watches something akin to "You shouldn't wear a watch in black tie, you should have nowhere else to be other that right there at that moment."
atomicvocabulary that’s a traditional black tie rule. But in America watches are perfectly acceptable. Watches with a tuxedo are like a notch lapel tuxedo. If you are an American then embrace your heritage. (The worst are the nerds who think watches are ok but notch lapels break the rules)
That's something people like to tout as a "rule" and a reasoning for it. I recommend checking out the other video I did that specifically addresses this topic.
He Spoke Style ha, yeah you are adopting style forum nerd tendencies with that view. “Break the rule on watches with tuxedos, but don’t wear notch lapels...”. Uhhh, prince Phillip is the best dressed of the royals and he is always wearing notch lapels. And if you are going to advocate breaking of one rule (watch is ok), but then say that the lapel has to be peak (which doesn’t look good on many people, and is certainly not a “rule”), well that type of inconsistency is wrong. In America notch lapels are preferred and watches are acceptable. There is a reason why bergdorf, brooks brothers, Paul Stuart, Armani and other decent brands sell so many notch lapel tuxedos (they look better than the peak for many people, the peak looks like you’re trying too hard sometimes)
Bugs the hell out of me when people think steel bracelet sport watches are acceptable as dress watches. I guess that's just a sign of my getting old because it seems to be becoming the norm.
Noodle_Ra Dive watches look bad with tuxedos. James Bond in casino Royale set off a trend. Seems like another Tom ford type trend (like him forcing peak lapels on the public) that became overused.
He Spoke Style oh that’s an autocorrect. Meant to say dive watches look bad with tuxedos. I’m all for watches with tuxedos. Totally acceptable. A classy dress watch with a nice notch lapel tuxedo is the preferred look of the American gentleman.
@@caseyjonesbklyn5796 actually it predates Casino Royale. Connery wore a sport Rolex (with a striped grosgrain watchband no less) with a diner jacket in Goldfinger.
I got one of those pre-tied bowties with a cummerbund, but I want to get a self-tie(actual) bowtie. The tie I got does not fit well and wants to go down on the dress shirt's top button. it does not matter how you adjust it. I believe the cummerbund is satin so I'll be sure to get a satin bowtie. I never knew about that, but it definitely makes sense. unfortunately the tux I have has notch lapels, and I love the peaked and shawl lapel look. This is all going to be for my wedding, but I can make due with the suit as it is. the dress code is not black tie, but the groomsmen are all going for a classic look. I will be sure to make myself stand out with those little details. Thanks for the video!
Sweet tux! I need to get a new due to losing a lot of weight, thankfully. What’s your opinion on wearing a watch with a tuxedo? I’ve heard some people say that it doesn’t fit the occasion, at least because of inception/introduction of the tuxedo in social settings. I think it looks good with a formal/dress watch, personally. Edit: haha, you answered my question as soon as I posted it!
Im not asked but i would advise using a pocket watch something classic a wrist watch is very informal with a tuxedo or white because its very easy to look at which implies you have better things to do
I know you got a double vent on your wedding tuxedo. Did you go with a double vent or no vent on your other tuxedo jackets? What about your dinner jackets? How do you feel about those. No vent or double vent ?
So, the tux I'm wearing here is by RL. It has a single vent. My Edward Sexton DB dinner jacket is no vent--wanted SUPER classic and old school. My burgundy dinner jacket from MAB--will be available when we launch the collection--is also a double vent.
You can wear a wing collar shirt with black tie its a classic and classy way to stand out and you can just do it look a pics for the 20's and 30's and more back and it was very normal back than they made the rules and you can wear it
Hello Mr. Sacawa, I just came upon your channel and I thought your name sounded familiar. Curious if you are still performing with the U.S. Army Field Band. Stay happy and healthy!
1:56 THANK YOU! thank you for mention this... my office anniversary requires the dress code for men is bow tie and suit.. i was like "it should be tux right?"
I have to attend black tie event in September 2022 and I don't own a tux. I went out shopping for a tux and none fit the look I desire. My budget is only $1500 for a whole tux which includes the shoes. What would be your best recommendation?
Wowwwwww that’s cool. Why was I on Mr. porter looking at that brand and was contemplating on getting it. Now I’m for sure ordering it. Thank you. Your watch collection is amazing. What do you think of the Omega Seamaster 300?
Awesome video as always Brian, what is your take on a vest with a tux? Should it match the rest of the tux or can it be made from another fabric, maybe satin? Hahaha, don't want to get too creative, just curious.
What if I reverse the colors of my tuxedo? jacket, dress pants, waistcoat, and bowtie all in ivory color matched with inner pleated shirt, pocket square, and patented leather shoes all in black. of course I will wear this at a formal lunch party instead of dinner.
I love your videos they are very detailed but I have a question... Can I get a satin cuff on my double breasted suit or is the satin cuff mandatory and also can I get a 2inch hem on my pants like the one you get on your custom suits. I did that recently and I am loving it they provide more character and edge to the suit.
Tux trousers should be plain bottom. What do you mean satin cuff? Like a cocktail cuff on the jacket? (I did that on my wedding tux.) If that's what you're talking about, it should match the fabric of the lapel.
considering the absence of opportunity for white tie event, I would still keep the wing collar as an option, otherwise you never really get the chance to wear it.
Should have been "cummerbund OR black tie appropriate waistcoat OR none of the above if the jacket is double breasted" (although the last exception should go without saying). Apart from that minor detail: great video as always, Brian.
I agree with this. Rented an old fashioned tuxedo with tails for my wedding and it didn't fit well at all, unfortunately. I DID however manage to get my hands on a decent condition plush silk top hat which stole the night from the ill fitting tux, haha.
I am sorry if I sound snobbish, but we're all here to learn from each other, right? ;) If the coat had long "tails", then it was a "tailcoat" which is worn as part of the "white tie" dress code. Or, maybe it was a "morning" coat that is meant to be worn at formal occasions during the day? In any case, it was not a tuxedo. The tuxedo is the same as dinner suit/dinner jacket/black tie and was introduced in the late 1800's as a less formal alternative to white tie/tails. The new dress code was invented in England and adopted by the members of the Tuxedo club in New York.
@@countalma9800 I thought that he was probably referring to a tailcoat, and therefore possibly creating some strange in between dress code, whilst reading. At the end of the day though that is probably one of the few days of his life he could do something like that, it's his wedding after all.
Hi I need help! I’m having my wedding in summer and the heat is deadly here in Australia, I feel like my groomsmen will want to wear sun glasses, how do I tell them not to?! Or is it possible to wear sun glasses (somehow)? Haha
First, congratulations!! The thing that I find tacky about how groomsmen look sometimes is that they’re too uniform. Everyone wearing the same sunglasses would look very contrived. If they want to wear sunglasses out of necessity, that’s cool-will look better if not squinting in photos-just don’t have them match. Good luck!
I wouldn’t consider a wing collar to not be acceptable for black tie, it’s definitely not commonly seen in the modern world, but if you want to go for a more vintage look, it’s a great choice. It’s also a good way to stand out without breaking rules
I semi disagree about the cummerbund. I think it really depends on if you have a vest. However I do find that sometimes the waist covering can be done without
