10 Common MTB Chain Maintenance Mistakes & How to Avoid Them 

About dirty chains, i had an incident when i was working in a shop. This guy came in with a problem that his chain was jumping but only on the lowest gear. I started diagnosing the problem and found out that his dìrty chain was in fact so dirty that the gap between the 1st and 2nd sprocket was completely full of dirt, it was compacted because of the chain's pressure. The chain was sitting only half the depth of the teeth in the sprocket. As soon as i cleaned the space between the sprockets everything worked like a charm.

Single use quick links is a hoax! I've been using them for years, joining and splitting them dozens of times, and they never ever failed.

Please do not forget that some chains are directional eg. some Shimano products. Thing to remember is the lettering goes to the outside.

I always reuse quick links, never had a failure. It’s marketing designed to fleece!

Quick emergency tip -- if you need to remove quick link and dont bave removal pliers , you can use a shoe lace... loop it through both sides and then twist both sides together until it pops open. As you twist the loop gets shorter and shorter

When I get a new chain, I keep the quick link from the old chain on my bike with a tube, tire levers, etc. Even though they are "single use", I figure it will get me (or a riding buddy) home.

11:15 found this out the hard way, spent 2 days trying to figure out why my gears where shifting so badly after replacing the chain... saw it jump on the second day and was beyond relieved but also fuming at my stupidity. DON'T DO A ME!!! haha

watching someone talk about how cool a "chain checker" is at 2 am .....Think I have a problem ?

I know everyone's situation is different and everyone values their time and finances differently. But I do a lot of miles as an endurance XC rider, So I see value in owning 2 chains (per bike) and cooking my chains in Wax, cooking in wax is by far the BEST way to get lubricant into the rollers, and no dust or grit is attracted to the outside of your chain or rollers. Usually I can get 200km of wet riding or up to 500km of dry riding, before changing a chain then every month or so I thoroughly wash both chains in petrol. Then cook them in candle wax for about 20mins. As for longevity, my last chain using regular lube lasted 1300km, the 2 chains I am currently running have combined 3500km, and are at about 0.3 wear. Also on the reusing connectors, I reuse them, never had one fail, but after about 5 times I might replace them because the "click" close does not seem as strong, and twice I've had the pin fall out of eagle joining links.

I actually messed up a few days ago when I installed a new chain and I wasn't paying attention while passing the chain through the rear derailleur and like you showed I ended up passing it over one of those tabs. I then noticed that for some reason I couldn't shift into my highest gear. I was just adjusting my derailleur earlier today because of this and kept hearing a clicking noise no matter how much I adjusted it, finally after about 15 minutes I noticed what i had done. I am installing a whole new groupset on Monday so I'm definitely going to pay attention this time.

Should have made this tutorial years back. I had to learn this by trial and error and watching more than a dozen other vids. Well done Doddy!

If you plan to use a wax based lube like squirt you DO have to degrease!

I've also always re-used chain links and never had an issue ever. The single-use thing is a wasteful scam. Nothing breaks on them when you unclip them, nothing is damaged and they are just fine to re-use.

Love your vids. Always so detailed and helpful. Thanks for your explanations!

Them colour chains are mesmorising running through the derailer.

Great video, I've shared this to lots of riders who don't understand the importance of the chain and its maintenance.

Fantastic description and now I am versed in chain care and repair! Love you guys! Thank YOU!

KMC 9 speeder chains and power links absolutely brilliant!! Used these for many years and show they are robust. Tryed other chains seem to break. Stick to what you know and don't go back to the other.. 😊 🚲

Very worthwhile! Thanks for producing this video.

Thank you very much. One of the few videos actually mentioning degreasing a new chain and what to do. Ive seen so many guides/tutorials where they just put on the new chain and maybe show how to measure the correct length but noone every states what to do with the factory grease.

Excellent information as always. Good job!

The best video I have ever seen on Chain maintenance and so much information..A+++

Hi Doddy, thanks again for your informative videos, much appreciated. I live in Australia and ride where the terrain in mainly sandstone. I’ve found the factory grease attracts sand and grit like bees to a honey pot and results in a very gritty drivetrain in no time. Personally I’ve found the best solution is to completely degrease the chain to remove all grease and then use a good quality dry or wet lube depending on the weather.

A bad chain break happened to me just the other day. I shortened my chain prior to riding and I thought that having it too short may have caused this - but after watching this video I'm now thinking it's because I re-used one of the pins when rejoining the chain! In any case, when the chain snapped, it somehow threw the derailleur into the spokes. You can guess how that ended.

This guy is so good. Two year old video. If he's still on the payroll, then give him a raise. You want to keep him. Thanks.

Thank you! Very informative

THANKS FOR CONTENT !!! You guys are awesome .

Tx u doddy! Ultra useful presentation. 👍🏻

Great video, very helpful tips!

Great vid. Wax lubes were dismissed too superficially - an unusual error mate. They have their place, pros and cons. In the correct situation, they are better than wet or dry. I’ll leave it to you for right of reply as to when wax has value.

Very informative video. Thank you.

Fantastic chain maintenance video Gear help Keep up the good work 👍

great video, thank you!

Perfect timing... hanger snapped, had to remove chain. Now I know everything I need to do/check before replacing chain on bike 😁

Very useful, thank you!

learn with every video, such good stuff

9:55 instead of that additional tool, you can use the back of your chain checker - that's what the two hooks are for.

Always love your vids Doddy 🙏💪

excellent, thanks a lot

Really good video. Thank.

This is sort of a Masterclass for beginners. Well done 😀👍

Thanks GMBN 😊

Great video thanks 👍🏻

Thanks Doddy. Be safe mate!

Very informative..thank you

Very informative, thanks ! I’ve recently upgraded my rear coil to a bigger travel , and have had to adjust my derailer, setting it closer to my spokes seemed to make things smoother , the geometry was changed a lot , higher bottom bracket which is a bonus , but now my head angle is less ( on a 120mm fork). Now I need a fork upgrade ! Any recommendations!? It’s old , and 26”. I will definitely be looking more closely at my gear and chain . Thanks guys

Thanks a lot man.

Superb presentation. Tks

A informative video, you Managed to pack a lot into a few short minutes Respekt Regards Jason

I would never have thought about a chain or tech, the way Doddy does! But that's my biggest mistake right there. Thanks Doddy! 🍻👍😎

Hold up. KMC make chains. How do we know this isn't a carefully plotted means of making us ruin chains so KMC can sell us more chains? 😉 Excellent video and actually pretty informative.

Very good info thanks 👍

Such a great video!

#GMBNTech Seeing those very dirty chains literally sent chills down my spine!!!!!

great video ! thanks

Great video.

Yep pretty much knew most of the tips. Some refreshers, but yeah mostly I follow the same ways.

Nice informative video, I used white spirit on a cloth just to surface clean my chain after every ride (road bike). Then give a full wet clean and chain degreaser bath) every few hundred miles or so. Seems to work for me and prolong my chain health.

Very helpful for a noob like me, thank you!

I like that tire lever slash chain tool. Clever!

Don't re-use quick links? Bugger off, I'm not buying a new quick link every time I want to take the chain off the bike.

Amazingly I watched this video last night in advance of fitting a new chain today which I haven’t done for quite some time. Incredibly even after watching the video I ran the bloody chain underneath the little plate on the derailleur and as described here it worked but was horrible and noisy, it was only when I looked carefully I realised what I’d done and remembered this video!

Great video!

Awesome video. So interesting 💯💯

Thank you for sharing :D

Those are some noiiice looking chains

doddy spot on video dud boring topic made interesting nice one and I have learned something

BEST chain video Ever!!!!

Nice tip

Snapped my chain on the first accent of a grand opening of a bike park. Coasted back down and went into the shop, not only did they have the chain I needed I had exactly enough money in my wallet to pay for it. That was a fun day.

After this I've decided to support my local bike shop 🤣👍

Brilliant !

Great video

Brilliant video

Wasn't really aware of people taken the grease off a new chain as , well it's a pointless exercise and I've seen some friends bikes and they complain about noises and I !lol at them and think'hows about cleaning the bike after each time it's getting use, great video and especially for this time of the year.

stuff we need! 👍

FANTASTIC !

Love the blue and black ...

Nice vlogging guys really helpful

Been using the same chain for 8 years. And before you say I don’t ride my bike think again. When I purchased my Specialized full suspension MTB new many years years ago I was riding every weekend. It all comes down to chain maintenance. This translates to cleaning/washing, drying, and re-lubricating it frequently.

I just love those KMC DLC chains. I have one in orange/black and one in yellow/black... They are good lookin and even better performing.

Helpful!

I used to rotate 3 chains, until it could not be done anymore. My old bike really wore down the drivetrain faster than my new one, way too flexy. So this helped alot. This also makes it easier to swap wheels with cassette already no skipping chain. I've not done it on my new bike yet, cus I rode way too little do wear it down, hope to ride more this year. Another thing to remember is lube can get too old, stiff, sticky and collect dust, grime, so if you let bike stand too long chain might struggle to move properly, it will reduce shifting performance. So don't let it stand for a week without cleaning and relubing. Never leave over lubed chain.

That KMC chain tool is brilliant. Had it for years, the first pin is still going strong and it has another, just flip it.

i used to work for a bike part wholesaler. getting a shipment of chains was always interesting. a tiny 2-3foot high pallet weighing 500lbs. boxes were tiny but 50lbs.

Nice New Set Doddy

I'm happy to see an Orbea Occam there. I just got one of those bad boys...

I tried for the first couple of years with my latest bike (I have only owned and ridden a single bike at a time)... to keep it clean and shiny all the time, immaculate. I obsessed over the chain to the point of cleaning it during rides. This is all while averaging over 7K miles a year, 20 to 120 mile rides year around. That means for me, living in the Pacific Northwest, 4 to 6 months of riding in the rain and on muddy wet surfaces. I have a Rohloff Speedhub mounted on a full-suspension touring bike coupled to a BBSHD mid-drive and it's amazing. It's broken me to ever owning another bike without a Rohloff. The mid-drive and the Speedhub are made for each other, they go together like lamb and tuna fish. @ The 1st year I rode I changed the chain 8 times... whenever it got to 0.5% wear as tested with a Park tool. After another 25K miles and 4 years riding I now wipe the chain clean daily and swap my chains every 6 months. Drop the chain, flip or replace the Rohloff gear, mount a new chain, and ride. Always having a straight chain line makes it amazingly easy to maintain. 11 Jul 19 - 71 miles w/front panniers & trailer on less than 15Ah... 1/2 the packs capacity. www.relive.cc/view/g37290970278 photos.app.goo.gl/RD1NrDPCZQuHpWja9

I love your videos. I'm a self-taught bike guy/mechanic, been at it for about 27 years. There are still things I don't know, and I use your videos to supplement that and learn more. I'm getting into e-bikes, but I still have my little Haro Roscoe that has served me well, I'm probably going to be investing some of this new knowledge into it. Thanks again, and keep spreading that wealth of knowledge and experience!

I always though Blake was the missing link.. Who knew it was part of your chain.

I bought a custom made mountain bike with no experience previously, and the guy that built it I found oddly enough had no grease on the chain it was just a light oil, it rides so much smoother with no grease.

Thanks for the 24 minute kmc ad!

Don't forget the easy way to check chain length without a specific chain tool; with a steel rule measure the links up to 12" (brand new chain), if the chain measures 12 1/8" then it's knackered. Replace before it reaches that point and you may get away with not changing the cassette at the same time. EDIT: I've just found this other alternative method on a forum I visit and have copied it: I'm happy to use a 12" ruler but I know some folk are not happy with this method and would prefer some kind of unequivocal measurement. Below I have written up a method which might fit the bill. All you need is a set of 6" digital Vernier calipers (typical cost £12-20 for a basic version) which many cyclists will have already or find very useful for other purposes. Step 1. Zero the caliper. Whilst taking a between rollers measurement (BRM), set the caliper to zero in the 'inches' range. Step 2. Take the measurement. Slide the caliper out to an indicated ~4.9" and then take a measurement between the LH roller as before and the appropriate RH roller. Step 3. Do the calculation. An unworn chain should measure almost exactly 5.000" on this test, (but +/- 0.005" isn't unusual even on new chain) Any excess over that represents pin wear in the chain. Thus a 1% worn chain will measure 5.050", and a 0.5% worn chain will measure 5.025", and so on. The chain below is (with the caliper re-zeroed for that chains BRM value) +0.043" so is almost 0.9% worn. Checks and balances: There are additional checks that you can do if you want; 1) Check uniformity of roller wear. With the calipers zeroed as step 1, you can check other roller gaps. With 1/8" chain using most verniers you can check any chain gap, but with derailleur chain you can only check between outer side plate links (as per the photos) unless you modify your verniers by grinding the internal jaws to make them slimmer than normal. Most worn chains I have checked thus show remarkably uniform roller spacing, but if a (singlespeed) chain is used on even tooth count rings/sprockets, every other link may wear differently. 2) Check uniformity of chain wear. You can repeat steps 1-3 as many times as you can be bothered to do along the chain length. If the chain you are measuring shows uniform BRM then you can take measurements without having to re-zero the caliper each time. 3) check roller wear. In the image below you can see the difference in BRM as measured using a short length of unused chain of the same type (KMC 'inox'). You can see that the roller wear is ~0.024" different between new and used chains. Had this been included in the main wear measurement, this arguably would have constituted a >50% error. Even new chains show a variation of +/- 0.25mm (~0.010") in this measurement, due to small variations in roller OD and bushing clearances. So there you have it; I think this method may be a both simple and effective one for keeping track of chain wear. Having said that, I don't think it adds much to the results you can get by simply using a ruler, but not everyone is happy to do that. The vernier method arguably has a flaw (which it shares with all commercial chain checkers, pretty much) in that it relies on the rollers being free to move in the normal way that occurs when the chain is in use. For various reasons this might not always happen. NB I have taken these measurements on short lengths of loose chain, but there it is probably best if the measurements are taken whilst the chain is still on the bike. For example if the chain is very dirty, whilst the chain is still in its usual position, (just used) the rollers will be able to assume their usual positions without difficulty, but once the chain is removed or otherwise disturbed, dirt in the rollers may affect the measurement. For this reason, some folk advocate cleaning the chain before you measure it. If you are going to remove it and clean it anyway, why not.... but if you are not, it means that you will regularly waste your time cleaning a chain that is actually headed for the bin.... cheers

Hi Doddy. I noticed that you you mentioned about the third hand to hold the chain! You didn't see or mention about the other side of the chain checker which also used for that.

Good interesting effort. Would anybody recommend how waxing with PTFE for MTB's?

The metal chain link pliers are preferable. I blew one of these plastic ones apart the other day and the link didn't even budge.

5:20 Warn rollers don't change the pitch, and are not a problem. It's the wear on the links and pins where the link rotates around the pin that results in the increase in pitch.

Nice to see how you clean external part of chain with a rack on a fully clean bike with fully clean chain..

Love to see that Totem and Marzocchi (what fork it is) on wall 😍

17:38 I use this brush for cleaning grips. 👌 But I use a Grunge brush for the drivetrain it has 3 brushes surrounding the chain, and I switch positions, it works really well, much faster and easier than the ones that are a box you poour degreaser into to.