Please never stop making these videos you save us so much money with these DIYs and help us learn to keep the N54s alive! This is hands down the best n54 channel around! Keep up the great work!
Pro Tip: Including covering the trunk latch with a towel, if you have rear folding seats, make sure you pop the lowering latch. That way worse case scenario you can get back into the trunk through the passenger compartment.
@@I2obbie12 I don’t think my trunk has a key slot. And if it does, I’m not sure if that actually pops the trunk mechanically. It may just lock/unlock it. You might be right though. I just have a habit of putting a towel in the latch and putting the folding seats down.
@@I2obbie12 2007 328i has to be released from inside of the trunk and then, I still have to loosen two bolts underneath the back of the seat, in the center (where the seat belts plug in to the harness)… So, I guess it just depends on which model you have… It would be so much nicer if my seats were like my VW Jettas… Just pull the latch on top of the back seat and they fold down no problem. If I’m not mistaken, I think there is a kit (or, a homemade DIY method) to add this feature into the car… But, honestly it shouldn’t have just came that way from factory. It’s terrible design flaw and a HUGE inconvenience in my opinion.
@James Folkes Unfortunately, with cars like these, that battery might not last long if not properly registered. Registration kind of programs it for use for that particular model, so the battery usage is regulated correctly and doesn't have excess drain.
Instructions for replacing the battery in my 25 year old BMW. Loosen and remove positive cable. Loosen and remove negative cable. Pull old battery out. Slide new battery in. Reattach cables. Drive car! What’s not to love!
Oh sorry, my bad. I realized you are talking about an old BMW. My apologies man. Yes I agree. Things are always becoming more complicated, worse while growing more expensive.
Was just thinking about this. I wish cars were still as technical and didn't have so much to do with electrical components. Would be more fun to tinker, too.
2025 bmw battery replacement :remove engine ,remove transmission and back seats, take out 17 10mm bolts securing battery, remove both ecm units, ship out for reflash procedure, installation is reverse of removal
0:32 AGM (absorbent glass mat) batteries are lead-acid batteries. The term "conventional flooded" will differentiate this from AGM. Both designs are lead-acid, as is gel cell. They all rely on the same reaction between lead and sulfuric acid.
Just replaced the Battery in my 2013 BMW 335. Thankfully it failed in my garage. Got it started with a Power Pack. Not easy to attach the cables to those battery Poles. I have to wonder...How is it that the computer tells me when a door is open, but says nothing, no warning, for the condition of the battery???
Someone mentioned in a forum that if using mhd to register new battery it must be identical(the battery)otherwise it could cause issues. Is there any truth to this ? Thanks
The guy I bought my car from put in a small battery that barely covers half of the battery space … I have electric / voltage issues . How do I know what kind of battery I need to use now ? I’m so lost
TYVM My question: if I replace BMW AGM 850/92 → BMW AGM 850/92 (same specs, newer recommended iteration) do I absolutely have to register it or can I simply drive as is and possibly sacrifice some lifetime off it? I plan to retire the car in less than 2 years (2007 e60) so longevity is no my concern, just any possible battery overheating damage due to alternator overcharging.
Great video. I have a 2004 bmw 545i with complete dead battery wont even charge. I do have that cable but I was never able to get inpa to work on my laptop. Are you saying I could just download app and plug cable into my phone and register battery? Or do I have to have new CPU in car im sorry im confused about that part
first of all, thank you for posting this video, this video will guide me to change my BMW 328i 2010, I just need to ask 1 question, what is the name of your tool, the yellow device you use to remove all the things on the top of the battery and where can I buy them? Thank you in advance.
Please help! I replaced my battery and I am not able to register it. Also, there is no history of the previous registration of the battery. Can you advise how to get the new battery registered in my BMW e92 N53
hey good afternoon i am having issues after parking the 335, i was replacing the battery and the wire you show at 1:57 broke and i cant find that wires name or purpose it connects to the positive terminal and imagine its important, as of now the car will not start. PLEASE HELP
@@lhorqque no the car is going start but the alternator will charge the new battery at the same rate it charged the old battery which 90% of the time results in over/under charging the vehicle. So the longer you leave it the more damage it will cause to other electric components in the car. It will cause random codes,blow light bulbs and fry fuses. U don’t want to listen then go drive it find out 🤷♂️ ppl buy BMW’s and can’t afford $50 to register a god dam battery. Broke idiots🤦♂️ then complain the car is unreliable
BMW should have intelligent systems that know how much charging the battery requires...having to tell the car is poor management and not responsive to the batteries actual needs as it ages. BMW needs to improve their systems.
Huh? It does manage the battery. I have a 2007 and the registering of the battery is for the sole purpose to “reset” the management of the alternator charging cycle. As it ages, it starts charging aggressively. When you get a new battery you will get better mileage as the alternator isn’t charging as aggressive. If you don’t register it, it will charge it like an old battery.
@@chrisrobles2012 well that is not what I would call smart charging. and all batteries are not equal and battery use is not equal among owners, so resetting is not responsive to the batteries actual needs. ....the technology exists so why not employ it. mmm, maybe because you can charge the owner each time he replaces his battery.
@@ucanoe , dude seriously? That is what the programming of the battery does. Do not confuse it with registering it. Programming the battery is to decide if it is AGM or lead acid, and the smart part is the alternator knows to either charge all the time or only during deceleration. The registering allows the battery to get its longest life by using what is most important to the type of battery. It’s okay to be ignorant about a subject but at least take someone’s knowledge and accept it.
The one thing I'm having a problem with is getting that red piece off and you just skipped right over it why would you do that it's obviously some kind of hidden little clamp because I can't find it anywhere I cannot get that piece off how do you take it off you just pulled it off like it was nothing
Hey man, super useful but I have a question! If you are replacing the battery with one that is the same type and same AH capacity, do you HAVE to do the code reset? Like yours was all 0s because you had your ecu reset but that doesn't affect anything right?
OK, so I don’t have to replace my battery, but rather connect directly to it for a ham (amateur) radio transceiver. In Transmit mode it draws about 12 amps. The “experts” have said don’t do it. It will screw with the IBS and will cause various faults. Based on this video and others you’ve done, you’re obviously very knowledgeable. Any suggestions? My car is a 2021 X3 PHEV (Xdrive30e). If you have an email let me know and I’ll communicate that way.
bmw clicks upon start and won't turn over. Had a flat battery sat through all winter. Re-charged it, and it lights up the car again. But now it clicks. What could it be? The battery read 13.90V now it's down to 12.80
@@VehicularDIY Thanks. It was the wire contact points that were not screwed firm tight:P I just layed them loosely on, it did get connection, I assumed it was enough. It wasn't. And the battery seems to work fine despite a professionals knowledge about it almost guaranteed being destroyed. (Turning flat throughout winter)
I remember you replacing your battery non agm to a agm battery with coding on this car.i have a 2008 non agm and was gonna make the move to agm.isnt agm a better way to go?
Hi I recently purchased a 2011 335i after about a month of having it I’m experiencing rough shifts and also rough downshifts when the car is coming to a stop do u have any idea of what it could be? Should I replace the spark plugs and coils and my trans fluid and filter and see what happens next ? Ur feedback would be much appreciated btw ur videos are really awesome
I used Carly (cost around $125) and took maybe 15 seconds to register battery. Took longer to remove the old battery (needed various sockets) and install the new one. I think the MHD adapter costs $175?
Technically MHD is free to download and you would just need a cable and adapter. You have to buy flashing licenses and other options but to just register your battery you could use MHD which would be free. So it would cost about $20 for a cable.
The biggest problem with Carly is it is into your pocket every month whether you use it or not. Secondly, I think the Carly only allows preset selected values.
I replaced my battery with the same exact one. Went on MHD I went to reset adaptations and when I clicked register battery, it tells me I need a backend only flasher license. Any idea why?
Same situation, emailed MHD asking which license I needed to register the new battery? The response from them was unexpected.. "you can not register battery with MHD, you can only reset adaptations. This is not the same. You will need BMW Tools." Yet under reset adaptations is "register battery" WTF? Also, other vids and posts from youtube & N54 sites say you can and they have. So now I'm researching how to do it with a laptop, K+DCan cable, and a free program.
Will this work for the 2013 x5? Bc buying all this stuff to register the battery and the battery is still $200 cheaper than what the dealer is charging to do it and can be used for other things. Someone please let me know.
Possible with computer using INPA. Just get matching to what's in the car. Don't follow parts store recommended. These cars can come with 4 sizes from factory. Onto another from same model and year can be different.
Sweet getting a new battery tomorrow , will try find the same as the one in my 335i , I have MHD an protools , if I have to code it not the end of the world
If it's an original BMW battery I believe it'll be black if it's AGM and white or gray if it's lead acid. The specs will be listed on the top or side. You would want to look for the RC or reserve capacity or AH for the amp hour rating. This is true for aftermarket batteries as well.
Question...my engine is running well but at cold idle has a little bit of a pulse/hesitation, barely noticeable. 2008 335i 144k mls. New injectors, vanos, pcv, valve cover, plugs, coils, clean check valves..what’s left to fix?
It broke because I kicked the cable by accident when data logging. I probably won't fix it now as I have a wireless adapter that works with MHD and I can tuck it away and put the cover back on now.
Vehicular DIY i did the same thing also. I was wondering how did you do that or is it just hanging by the original cable? Because mine just swings back and forth inside the obd area and sometimes doesn’t connect unless it’s in a certain position for me. So I wanted to know how to make it better or have mine like yours so I’ll at least know it connects every time and isn’t a pain to get on and off the scanner
Yes! I have the K+Dcan cable, so what would the MHD flash enable on my stock 335is, and will it matter if I don’t have the vehicle flashed, to register the battery?
If you do not want to flash and just want to read codes and reset adaptations that portion of the software is free. If you want to flash it and data log then you would buy the flash license, the license pack for the tune you were interested in (stage 1, stage 2 etc) and the monitor license if you wanted to see how your car is reacting to the tune. If all you do is download the software and go over to read codes and reset adaptations that part is free.
Vehicular DIY I’ve tried exactly this and I don’t understand why it’s not letting me register my new battery & it says car needs to be “backends only flasher” I have mhd adaptor and mhd downloaded and I have read and cleared codes with it but everything I try to register the battery it won’t let me! Will cellular connection be an issue?
Even if you close the trunk, YES you can get back in when the battery is disconnected. Use key to open door, pop hood and jump the car with either another car, battery or jump box at the jump points from under the hood and WOW, you have power and can pop the trunk.
I do have a "malfunction battery" warning sign on my 335I n54. I am trying to change the battery can you list the whole specs of the battery that I need to watch out for? I do have AGM (Balck box battery) AMP hr is 80 @ 20hr CCA 790
When I try to use MHD to register the battery it doesn't work and gives me no other options. What could be the problem? Anyone have this problem before?
The OEM BMW batteries are pretty good and not that expensive. I had to look around a lot to find a battery which would meet or exceed the OEM specifications. After determining that the Odyssey (48-720) and Auto-Zone recommend battery was adequate but the wrong specification, I determined the Odyssey 49-950 was the exact drop in that had specifications that exceeded the OEM battery including a 3 year warranty. Also, with a store sale, it cost much less than the OEM or other 3rd party AGM batteries that were sufficient. Installation is a snap (once terminals are pulled out of the way) and one remembers to connect the venting hose. Few batteries are made in the USA today. Odyssey and Dekka are the only two I know that are. Replace an AGM with a flooded plate lead acid battery is a very bad idea because of corrosive gasses emitted and deep discharging is much more injurious to a flooded plate battery and will kill it pronto. This is why in the marine world, all critical batteries are AGM. We will skip the horrors of spilled battery acid for now.
