I agree with every thing you've said. I've been building R/C plane for almost sixty years. However for past ten years I've used foam core boards. I make wing's airfoils using KF air foils. I truly LOVE this type of airfoil. In my opinion this type air foil uses its own air to fly. Yes it takes some practice and doings to make it work, but in my opinion it's worth the effort. Each to their own I'll say. Two thumbs up for your effort and the video!!!
Great video Tim! I'm currently working on a 42 inch foam board tri-motor w/retracts. Next will be a 800mm Pitts. Foam board combined with li-po batteries and brushless motors really opened up RC flight to so many more people which is priceless for the hobby! Cheers!
Nice video! I began building with balsa back in 1978 and I too have enjoyed building with foam. Just a few notes: 1 - If youngsters are cutting foam, then you can actually make clean, straight cuts using 32 tooth-per-inch hacksaw blades. With a little practice, and if you mark the foam and take your time, and insure the blade doesn't touch the table supporting the foam, then the cuts with a 32 tpi hacksaw blade can be accomplished. It's "very unlikely" anyone would get hurt cutting foamboard with a 32 tpi hacksaw blade. 2 - Technically, hot glue doesn't "dry" but it does cool and of course it hardens when it's cool. You might also want to show how parts can be glued together to form 90 degree angles & so forth using guides/blocks. 3 - Miscellaneous: foamboard can be used to make some incredibly cool bends and shapes. Very tight bends can be made without splitting or tearing the paper covering if you put packing tape on the outside of the bended area. Hinges are also great to demonstrate. I usually cover my servos with painters tape before gluing them into place. Maybe some or all of those techniques have already been provided in other videos you've created - I just discovered your page today so, not sure. Keep at it - thanks & happy flying! :)
#11 reason. They bounce when they crash and are super easy to repair. Of course I’m simplifying a bit, but compared to Balsa, crashes are less severe for the same impact velocity and they tend to bend instead of breaking. Just straighten and fly again. Thanks for the video. I agree with your 10 reasons.
Another great and interesting video Tim.. Unfortunate with the Phantom. But they said that the full size one was ‘ a triumph of power over airodynamics’😂
👍I recently got a few boards to make a couple planes just to try out. Seems like it could be a lot more fun when you don't have to worry about breaking an expensive model
Hi Tim, I'm fully on board. These light planes are the future with Remote ID, different experience but we fly toy airplanes anyway. Mind over matter. Excellent video
Another great video Tim. Foamboard is cheap, fun, and you can rapid prototype. I have some really fun originals that were once built with foamboard and now have become even better when using the roughly 1/2" Lowes Blue 4x8 sheet of Styrofoam Insulation sheathing.(very inexpensive as well) Then glue blocks to hand shape the fuselage. Very satisfying results. I'm looking into silicone mold making and using expandable foams so I can easily produce more copies. Regards, LL
New flyer I got a nice big glider but I now build every plane built two this weekend 1700 skywalker absolutely fantastic trainer and then copied a balsa thunder tiger nitro in foam boards utterly brilliant and yes they all crashed but the cost of that crash a little bit of money and my time but the key is I’m learning much much faster about flying than I ever would just slamming a battery in and gyro , nice channel by the way here have a sub sir
I started to building rc foam board planes three years ago. And the main reason was, it is damn cheap. The biggest coast was my Spektrum Dx6e that i bought second hand from a friend. As long as your electronics on board (motor,esc,servos etc.) survive, your good to go to just build a new plane. And if some servo dies, they are not so expensive.
Another informative, excellent video! I love the Bronco! There is something very relaxing about these quiet little models floating by. I doubt today's photovoltaic panels would provide enough current to power a small model airplane, but maybe someday? Anyway, thanks for giving me more ideas for a build! 👍
I love how many innovations and creative solutions appeared once foamboard (and even just cardboard) started being used in RC plane modeling. As you said, it is cheap, easily available, and gets results fast. Product development benefits when experimentation can happen faster and with lower costs. Unfortunately, it seems that foam board is not a great material to build beginner-friendly RC planes that are lighter than 250 grams and can fly without remote ID after September this year. I hope the lower mass limit for this FAA regulation will be adjusted because simply buying light planes is not terribly innovative. But as you say a lot... Wait and see. :)
KH: Thoughtful observations, thanks so much for checking in! As you mention, remote ID will work out. I remember the huge fuss the 2.4 GHz radios created when they were first introduced in 2005 or so. Radios would not work, would jam each other, on and on. No different than the clamor and clatter on remote ID . . . and this is before anyone has actually seen or used one. Tim
Main reason is for beginners they build a good flying trainer like the simple cub in foam board they will learn to fly and when crash you lose a few dollars in foam maybe and maybe a prop cheap to build another or build 5 or 6 and just transfer electronics over
Foam board is the best. Cheap and durable. Too bad it is very tedious and time consuming to build foam planes. And yes I built a few balsa planes in the 1980's. PS: Turn up the mic.
I started building with foamboard 16 years ago when it was hard to get depron I found the foam board at Kmart at the time. At the time I was also into the GWS foam plane kits which I greatly miss. $29 for a CNC-cut foam airplane kit that you had to build. They were so light they would fly on cheap coreless brushed motors. You can occasionally find the kits for $100 on eBay or Aloft Hobbies. They always came with motors and gearboxes. For $80 you can have an incredible flying warbird. Gosh, I miss those planes.
Awesome content and video production. Instead of giving Mr. Bezos free plugs may I suggest that you recommend your viewers to have a look at what their locally owned craft/hobby store has in stock? If we keep on shopping at Amazon (I don't) one day that shopping center near our home will either be a data center or distribution center.
Alan: 24" wingspan, length 18", wing chord 4" . Pretty much TLAR (That Looks About Right) for all dimensions. GC 20% back from wing leading edge. Good luck! Tim
Good info, Tim, Could you make a vid, showing the motor and electronics laid out on the bench for a 2 wire motor for a park flyer? I can't use my throttle joystick so I just have a toggle swicth for the motor.Thanks Joe.
I'm new to this hobby and I'm wondering if you could do a video of the size motors that are used on these types of planes. the most I know about them is the battery size. i.e. 1s 2s and so on.
David: It can be super confusing with all the differing electric motors. What I do is take a look at the tech specs for the motor, they usually list a model weight suitable for that motor. E-flite Park motors has a good chart on this. Two cells is about the minimum, for extra thrust a three cell can really change the model, just make sure the ESC can handle the higher battery cell count. Tim
Tim, thanks for all the work you do making this sport/hobby accessible to new pilots. I have previously 'tried' to fly a couple of Aero Scouts but my flying area is a hay field with stubble. This produced a disaster when the front landing gear was ripped off and along with some of the other components attached to the balsa. Not all a loss as I enjoyed the repair process. I now want to enjoy the flying as well. I would like to build a foam board SLOW flyer that will allow me to skid in for a landing - no wheels or gear. This plane will be a trainer so nothing fancy. Any suggestions as to plans? I will purchase Spectrum DX6 with a AR620. I have had several of the ready to fly radios and they are not what I am interested in. Looking forward to your reply. Bill C
Bill: Copy all! My “Foam Bug” airplanes fly nice and slow, land on their belly. If you are into building, a Lazy Bee is hard to beat for relaxed flying. Tim
@@TimMcKay56 Thank you Tim. It looks like there is a electronic parts shortage on Stevens Aero and Horizon Hobby. Lots of back orders. Any other favorite suppliers? Bill C
Hey, Tim have you tried “Ross” brand foam boards from Walmart. I found it been lightest(when compared to Elmers) and cheapest. Let us know whatcha ya think.
You made a serious misrepresentation of balance with regard to your F-4 build. Motor placement is 100% irrelevant. Any winged flying plane , full size or model, must be balanced according to a % of MAC, (mean aerodynamic cord), typically 25-30% of wing cord Placement of R/C equipped, batteries or ballast weight shifted to accomplish this are required. Your F-22 lands poorly due to improper balance.
Tim - you sort of touched on this in several chapters, that you can repair foamboard planes pretty quickly. After my son crashed his tiny trainer and destroyed the nose, I cut off the front 1/4 off the fuselage and spliced in a new section, a 1 hour, easy repair, good as new. If you haven't built a foamboard 3d profile plane, they are fun to make and fly!
I still prefer balsa and nitro fuel. (I've done foam. It's easy, light, and CHEAP. I LIKE building. I like sturdy. And the SMELL!) So get off my ICE's. More noise, more FUN. LESS FIRE!
Tim, I built a Foamboard aiplane but I am frustrated by the warping of the vertical and horizontal tail surfaces. I painted very light mist coats to avoid delaminating the paper from the Dollar Tree Foamboard. I painted the top and bottom surface alternately between coats to avoid this very situation. I was successful at avoiding the delaminating of the paper but not the warping. Is there a reliable method of correcting the warp once the plane is painted? The tail surfaces are built out of a single thickness “flat” Foamboard. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. My plane looks like the Orca from Free Willy. 😕
Mike: Not sure the width of your foam. If narrow, consider gluing two layers together. I’ve had good luck with poster acrylic paint, minimal/zero warping, even with a light spray of Krylon clear sealer. I think once a warp is set in foam, no clever way to take it out. Tim
Tim, Thank you so much for the quick reply. I can see the advantage of Foamboard airplanes, but there is a learning curve for sure. Luckily the advantage of cheap building material helps take the sting out of hard lessons. If by some stroke of genius I can figure out a way to solve my warping issue I will pass it along. I think I might take some “before” pictures just in case. Thanks again Tim…love the channel!
@@Yankee2003 Hi Mike, I also found that painting warps the board. I think very light coats and perhaps different types of boards are where others are successful. Perhaps even more favourable environmental factors. I don't paint because of this warping . . I use couloured packing tape which has it's own limitations and frustrations but hugely increases strength.
I would love to hear and see some of those frustrations and limitations. I have heard a number of people mention the colored packing tape but I don’t really understand to whole idea. Is there a combination of paint and colored packing tape?