Concentrate the heat on the area that needs adjusting. Do your count until it softens. Hold in place with your thumb or "roll" it on a clean, smooth counter until it is in the position you need, allow it to cool. I still went for the dog bowl water dip next to the frame warmer but I'm not sure folks do that much these days. Practice on some old frames. John
Great tips! I abide by all of them so it was nice to find out that you do the same. P.S. Don't you take out the lenses first? Too much heat will ruin their coatings!
No I don't unless I'm doing some crazy repair or adjustment. You shouldn't need to heat to the point of damage and without the lenses in you may not get the adjustment you are trying to get. You can leave your glasses in the car on a sunny day where it gets to be 120 degrees + and the AR doesn't seem to be damaged. (OK not a great idea - just comparing) Just use your best judgement. John
And what if the lens in the frame got A/R and u want to warm the frame and pop the lens out? Please show how to do that without the A/R lens getting waved. Thank you
No worries. You can use a hot air blower - it is one of the reasons they were created. Just don't go overboard on the heat, the coatings can take it. Keep it moving, use as little as possible. Remember in some places temps well over a 100 degrees F are not uncommon and people wear AR there too. The old style bead pans can overheat and damage AR coats.
@@LaramyKOptical *Yeah, i wasn’t either, from what i gather its frames made in a mold, they liquify the “plastic” or whatever and then inject it into the frame mold and make the frames that way. I heard you can’t use the warmers on them. But i thought you might know and say that you could. I guess maybe the proper term is “injected molded frames”. I seen one youtube video that is very short that just shows the frames being dropped from the mold into a water filled tub or something. I think they can make frames maybe faster this way. High end sunglasses brands is where i seen them call the frame material “black injection” when for most there frames they say “black acetate”. Black just being the color of the frames that i like. But anyways, me personally, i feel that if done very carefully i think maybe a very tiny adjustment might be able to be made. And i say very tiny because the “injection” frames do feel more brittle, and the reason has to do with they feel super light weight compared to acetate. Basically my last example to descirb “injection” frames is they feel like have you ever used or bought plastic forks or knives or spoons before? Well, those i am assuming are made with the “injection” method. And so you can feel that light weight and brittle feeling in the plastic forks and spoons, and thats how the “injection” frames feel essentially, but a little stronger. Now that i think about it, maybe it would be a good test to try to experiment with plastic forks and knives and spoons and see what is the amount of time you can put in warmer before they melt away. To practice and find the exact time to use to possible bend them slightly. But anyways, thank you for your reply. 👋
