Breather tube caps need to be positioned upright where the cap is like a hat or umbrella covering the opening. An open tube like you have for the front diff is just asking for dirt and water to go in it. Get a vent cap or put a U in the hose and point the opening down. Don't forget about the breathers on the trans and transfer case. The Dana 35 is a POS, IMO do not spend money on it, replace it with a Dana 44 or a Ford 8.8. The 8.8 is a damn good axle and a LOT easier to find in the JY or on line. Barnes makes an awesome truss kit for it. Rust, pull the carpet back and check the floor, if it is rusty, clean it and treat it, kill the rust. TJ frames are great at holding water and dirt in the rails, it's a common practice to drill drain holes in the frames in the bottom of the frame around the LCAs front and back just before the frame swoops back up to the let the water out. Motor mounts, check them, they break.
You can do the ZJ drag link upgrade with new Moog parts for 200.00 not 4 to 8 hundred dollars. Now the control arms you can spend that easy. You have rust if mounts are coming off . I will never have that problem on my rust free TJ. Build for the trails you take . Lots of higher clearance skid plates out there , Barnes , Under Cover, Rough Country and a lot require BL's .
Good day dude Don't forget the transmission vent The vent on my factory 6 speed was only a dust cap so I vent tubed it to the firewall/ hood area This way I can due 3' water crossing w/ confidence SEE U ON THE TRAIL😜
14:30 I don't know if it works on jeeps, but since a lot of OEM skid plates are stamped, some can actually stack together to make a double thickness plate with very little cost or effort.
The storm took my TJ, so when it was time for me to get another one, I found myself getting a Toyota forerunner. I just didn’t off-road enough to justify the noisy bumpiness of the ride, but it was fun.
If you’re rock crawling or off-roading a lot than the Currie is well worth it. It’s much stronger and can take a beating without having to worry about it bending or jacking it up
@@built4wheelin275 Currie is good but I’ve definitely bent mine a couple time now by slamming it down on rocks. Pulling it off the Jeep and pressing it straight has always worked though.
Get rid of that dana 35 and upgrade to a Ford 8.8 rear end, I broke 2 dana 35's this month and am making the upgrade myself. the Scotch Line Trail ate the last dana 35. great channel i hope to see you on the trail fella, cheers
That’s the plan once I can get it all done. It’s hard when you don’t have a workshop or garage to store the stuff. I would basically need to buy and do the swap in one day. Including lengthen the frame, move gas tank, get coil overs to fit because springs and shocks won’t fit a TJ with tons. It’s like 20k to get it done just in parts lol 😂
@@SmokinMonkeyOG Barnes 4wd makes an awesome truss/swap kit for the 8.8 into a TJ that's what I have ordered, should be in today $380 US. Did the rest of the work myself just letting a local shop put the gears in and setup. I'll try and show you the process I'm taking as it's only costing me about $1500 not including the selective locker
@@SmokinMonkeyOG I'm using the stock axles from the 99 Explorer it came out of apparently they are stronger than a Dana 44. I guess I'll find out. All in I'm about $1500 without the purchase of a locker, that includes the 4:56 gear set. Junkyards are great for finding these cheap. I'm always watching your videos so I'll let you know how it works out 👍 keep the videos coming fella 🍻
Nice channel. You have some good videos. You might want to check your rear control arm mount. Right at around 2:27 you can see around the bolt there are some rub marks from that bolt and it may be moving around. You may be ovaling out that hole, or wearing through the bolt. Just something to check. Keep it up!
I heard a super 35 is as good of a choice for the rear differential swap from the factory 35 because Dana 44’s are hard to come by. Now I’ve seen Dana 44’s on the internet so I’m confused about that. What is your take on the super 35 and leaving the factory 30 in the front? The same ppl said not to put the factory rear 35 differential on the front.
You can definitely find 44s but they’re just not cheap. As for the super 35 I wouldn’t waste my time I would honestly go look for a 44 or even old axles from a super duty pickup truck. The reason you can’t use the rear 35 in front is because it’s not a steer axle. It doesn’t have steering knuckles and the suspension mounts are not the same. You could get it swapped over onto a rear axle in theory but I haven’t heard of anyone ever doing it and it sounds like a lot of work for you. I would look for 44s and if you don’t need lockers or want to add locker yourself you can get LJ 44s that would most likely have a posi (anti slip) in the rear. And those are cheaper than rubicon ones because they don’t come with lockers.
@@SmokinMonkeyOG Lots of Ford 8.8's out there for cheap and it's not hard to find one with a LSD and 4.10 gears. Got mine for a hunred bucks and truss kit with perches and brackets for about $300.
@@halewilson The 8.8 is much better than the JL Dana 44. The LJ Dana 44 is highly over rated and not as much of an upgrade as most people think. Not worth the cash for sure.
2005 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon Unlimited....The most trouble that I have had is with the electronics....TCM and ECM....Constantly failing ....Totally unreliable....
You get what you pay for. The Currie I have takes a shit load of abuse before you ever think of replacing anything. Much tougher than the factory XJ or ZJ ones
Just bought my first jeep it's a 1997 wrangler what brand of lower control arms do you have nice job on your build it's came a long way since you started.
@@SmokinMonkeyOG if you can get you a sye and new rear driveshaft and you can get rid of the transfer case and transmission drop spacers above your skid plate and get you some more ground clearance 👍 great video 📸
The stock TJ tie rods are garbage. They didn't even upgrade it on the Rubicon TJs. I had a tie rod snap on my 04 TJ Rubi after crossing Jenny Creek in Colorado. There was absolutely no reason it should have snapped but it did... and this was nearly 20 years ago in 2005 so it was all new stuff.
Great video! Im experiencing a lot death wobble and i think it might be my track bar but also i noticed that my steering wheel isnt straight, do you think the issue is also my track bar?
Steering wheel not being straight is related to the drag link and tie rod. Your track bar keeps your axle at centre of the Jeep. If you lifted it and didn’t get a track bar then your steering wheel would be off slightly but if you have death wobble then it’s most likely something need’s replacing because its worn out. Either the drag link and tie rod or ball joints would be my first thing to check. But I drove with a stock, worn out track bar before and it never caused death wobble for me personally
Yup lol I smashed the other one (my bro stepped on it while recovering the Jeep from a mud hole) so I decided to use this one for under the front for night wheeling
Lmao I’m on my second engine, third transfer case, fourth radiator and that’s just 2023. Check out my videos she’s the opposite of a mall queen whatever that is. (The sayin is garage queen, or mall crawler) mine doesn’t get started unless I’m working on it or driving it to the trails. I have a daily and this is not it. This is a send it and spend it rig
