Another great video Ivan. I will be very interested to see if the toothiness lasts with the 100,000 stone this would be the best of both worlds. On a sushi knife now I set the bevel on my finest diamond stone then remove any burr with a blue ceramic stone that will leave a mirror polish I only do a couple of strokes with it creating a micro bevel but being careful not to remove the teeth from the edge. Like with you the taste of a piece of fish is noticeably different from my normal working edge which is around 600 grit followed by a couple passes on a synthetic sapphire, while a great edge for rough work it is not suitable for sushi prep. I am still experimenting with a more polished edge on my Cowry X knife and hope to do a video on it but so far it looks like as you said that the soother edge will last longer on the Cowry X, looking forward to the finish of this! Bruce
this is where knife land veers hard into straight woo woo. Pure mythology with scant relation to reality. Ironically, knife steel nerds, run by a Ph.D metallurgist just released a new article (and video for the illiterate) on this "very pure" so called wootz steel. Maybe ya'll should give it a look, it might take your head out of the clouds and back down to reality a bit. Maybe the modern take on "wootz" steel featured in the video is "very pure" but actual wootz steel in so far as it's something with a reliable definition is anything but. A 100k whetstone much less for kitchen knives is, frankly, absurd as well. All of the videos I've seen on this channel show off some very cool stones and knives but are dripping in sentimentality, emotion, mythology, and often laced with a hearty dose of factually inaccurate information. Traditions are cool and all, but they don't get you very far in the modern world. Nice sample size of one cut btw, so you can "taste the difference between foods cut with a 400 grit" vs 100,000 grit edge."
I was secretly hoping for a continuation of the adventures with Naoki Mazaki's Kurouchi Gyuto knife. Thank you for this video, I had no idea about such high grits in stones.
Nice presentation but the magnification of those microscopes is over-exaggerated and certainly not 300x, I do macro photography as a hobby and at best that's 80-100x but you did say it was from Amazon so that does explain the inflated figures. Those stones do look very nice though.
It's a Koolertron Digital Microscope, amazing it can zoom 300x. Very nice to be able to connect it to a PC and check it on a monitor, but it is only wired, so a model that can be connected via Bluetooth might be more convenient.
These stones should be amazing for straight razors ! But must be frustrating to lap the stones to get the right finish for the stones. But i dont like stropping at all! Never feels as sharp as it comes of the stone , most people rely on the strop as a crutch to get it shaving or hair whittling. I dont go of my coarse 150 200 grit till it whittled or shaves hair.
Hi, well I mean you've really a lot of experience and I'm happy that you share it on YT. Also your skills are nearby perfect, especially that you are able to hold the exact angle during sharpening 👍 I mean one of the most important things when you check the knife on paper is the sound, you hear exactly when it is cutting with a minimum noise. Can you provide a link where I can buy the tested knife BR and THX in advance from 🇦🇹 PS: when you show the edge at 12:30 you'll clearly see three phases
I can't even imagine the price of a 100 k stone. To begin with those must be insanely difficult to manufacture up to spec and I wonder if their maintenance and usage also has heavy requirements to keep them matching the spec. And what are the chances that I start watching someone who's lived in Japan mastering his craft for decades now and the first person I see him refer to is a Finnish guy (watching from Finland). I "know" one Finnish blacksmith from small village my cousins lived in, who travelled to Japan to learn blacksmithing, but blacksmiths and blade makers or steel makers definitely aren't on the front page here. If you know one, you know a rarity. I'm happy to see the carrot being your test. I also noticed that carrots are concerning to cut if your knife isn't sharp, and when I first got my blade "really" sharp on kitchen knife standards, I was surprised that it cut carrot without effort, almost on its own. It felt so safe and made me rethink about sharpening. I'm gonna pay attention to the reflecting surface from now on. These tests are fascinatingly unorthodox and practical, they make sense for practical reasons. Like having an actual motivation for why it could be worth it to have a very fine blade. Already learned from your videos what I suspected, that my kitchen knives are bent due to the wooden block rack and pulling them out willynilly. And probably as a consequence the edges are funny shape. And I'll say, if you see a craftsman who has office worker's hands, you should rethink what you believe about them. Hands that work don't stay spotless and smooth.
@@thechumpsbeendumped.7797 The tolerances for constructing all the parts of the stone are more strict. For example many cheaper diamond stones are contaminated with uneven particles - bigger particles than wanted. It's not like cutting extremely fine particles of diamond is easier than cutting steel with fine precision, it's a science in itself. You have to be able to cut the particles, sieve the desired range of particles and apply them without contaminations with suitable adhesives. Universally the smaller your operation sizes get and tighter your tolerances get, the more difficult it is to deliver the appropriate level of precision. Like at 100 k grit levels it's getting to a point where dust particles can ruin the surface. You can see similar effects in machine shops where measuring parts can be ruined by the temperature of your hands, humidity, not wiping a fingerprint off the surface. After machining a steel part it is often left in an environment controlled space for as long as a day before measuring depending on the desired precision.
Thank you, in my experience depending on what type of stone your flattening, Natural, synthetic or diamond, flattening with a lower grit than the stones grit often won’t make to much of a difference, but in some cases it can excessively wear a stone for no reason. with natural stones and higher grit synthetic and diamond polishing stones if flattening with a grit lower then the stone, i find it important to condition the surface up to the stones inherent grit or with natural stones a similar finesse. But for rough sharpening stones 120-600 I will keep the surfaces of the stone rougher from a lower flattening stone or plate to aid in cutting speed. For example flattening a #400 grit naniwa chosera with a #140 atoma.
For me I make sure to maintain edge angle and not over raise my arm holding the blade blade when approaching the tip. It helps to make a few gentle passes on the stone at the tip to judge where you need to be.
Thank you very much, that was immense helpful. I see when you lay the knife on the stone wiggle a bit to find the angle, I assume. Can you tell what exactly you are looking for when the angle is right ?
Hi, On such a progression I love to run the edge along the 1k stone before sharpening with it (with just the weight of the blade at most). This way any "big tooth" from the 400 is normalised, you should try it. Amazing cuts
