@@marchingknight11 Not going to create a kickback in this video since nothing is beyond the center of the blade. Its not going to kickback on the blade side pushing down against the surface. At least not when you have a riving knife also. The thin strip can kickback though. For other reasons. Since nothing is pushing it down.
Definitely a strong potential for kickback on the thin unsupported piece of wood between the blade and fence, regardless of where the feather board is. There are jigs that help with cutting thin strips. There might even be a 3d printable version. Rockler makes one and it looks pretty easy to recreate in CAD.
The drill dust guide is good and durable enough to keep in your drill case or bag, but a cheap option is to use an envelope taped to the wall with painters tape or a folded piece of paper. Works great!
But, But, But, But... it's not 3d printed! Seriously though, that tool seems like an over-engineered solution without any additional benefits. I actually know of something similar that comes with a vacuum hose attachment for a portable shop vac. Otherwise a piece of foil and painters tape make way more sense considering you may want to have both hands on a hammer drill.
Michael, I echo your thanks to all of those designers who work so hard on creating a model and then releasing it to the public for free. THANK YOU to all those designers, I/we really appreciate your efforts.
Wow I am so honored to be featured in this video (the wood push stick) I literally learned everything I know about Marlin and firmware modifications from you !
12:52 No. No no. Never rip a thin piece between the fence and the blade. That thin piece is what gets kicked back and the featherboard isn't touching it so it can do nothing to stop it. Put the large part against the fence with the thin offcut on the outside. You may need to make a thin rip first to true up that edge to parallel to the edge against the fence. If you need to repeat thin strips, Print a thin rip jig. There look to be some good ones. (I haven't gotten to them yet but are on my shortlist) 👍
So cringe when he says "...to safely push the plank through" while doing it probably in the most UNSAFE way possible save for doing it bare handed maybe...
Came here to say this. I'm honestly surprised that piece didn't end up putting a hole in the wall, especially with how it was creeping back towards the blade at the end of the clip. I don't want to come off like the safety police but I'd seriously suggest replacing or removing that segment. Because this is a channel full of tutorials and advice, it's not unlikely that someone might copy what they see here and end up seriously hurt.
I use a sacrificial push stick to hold both pieces in place with a board slightly wider than the cut-off clamped to the fence. I've done it this way for forty years and never had a problem.
Thin rips are done thousands of times a day across the world. Yes, a push stick on the thin part is advised- but what force, given there is a riving knife in place, do you think there is to propel the part backwards? Vibration causes the part to jiggle against the blade, but there is little transverse force involved, so little rearward force can be generated. Tests show that the part moves backwards very slowly, as can be seen in this video. So, yes, it should be supported but the risk level is low to very low, because of the combination of little chance and low consequences. There are many more risky events captured on YT- and in this video where was the crown guard? A much more serious omission.
@@critter42 Im a wood worker. You should never use gloves when using a motorised saw. Its a recipe to get your hand caught and loosing more than just a finger
The more videos I watch on 3D printing the more I am blown away by what can be done, truly the imagination is the most limiting factor. I must invest in one soon. Thanks for the videos.
@@wematanye533 "budget" is about a billion times better than where 3d printers were a decade ago. Honestly, the only major issue with budget printers(modern, not the ender 3) is you're largely incapable of anything requiring good heat deflection.
Me too. I have a 10 year old printer doing great prints (turnigy fabrikator) even with 150mm/sec. I bought it last month for 10€ lol i also uploaded a short video of it printing. Its only limited by small print surface and volume 150x150x100@@wematanye533 some days ago I bought geetech a10t for 30€ because seller thought it is broken because it didn't home anymore since he replaced Mainboard. He didn't flash the Mainboard with marlin activated bl touch. I configured bltouch in firmware, flashed it and now it works perfectly lol amazing deal
Love the video. I'll print a few of those. For future reference, you can use the pokey part than comes out from the end of your calipers to measure depth, like you needed in your lock-blocker project.
3:34 - Turn the calipers around - there is a stick that pops out the back when you use the calipers that lets you measure things like that (as well as the depth of tiny holes, for instance.) You probably already knew that though, and this was just a use-case example for your print 😇
@@HebrewHunter101also if you have digital calipers you can measure travel distance by extending it, zeroing the calipers, pushing the button and checking the value (you can also do it the other way around, the difference between the two is if the distance is shown negative or positive) Another nice trick is the distance between center of holes of the same diameter, use the back to measure the hole size, zero, then still with the back, measure the long distance, it will give you the distance between centers.
Thanks for sharing some of these great ideas. Just a tip on the use of the feather board. Never place it opposite the blade. The feather board should be positioned just in front of the blade so you are not pushing the workpeice into the side of the blade. If you do it will jamb and kickback at you. Dangerous.
it is not advisable to do a cut as demonstrated around the 13 minute mark. if there is not enough room for a push stick between the fence and the blade you should use a spacer block of wood between the fence and the workpiece to keep the workpiece from being pinched between the fence and the blade. The blade can throw the arrow sized piece of wood back at you with dangerous speed.
Hey Michael, love your work! That alternative version of the helping hands would be great with some Velcro command strips on the back too. Easily removable from your work bench when not needed but holds in place nicely when have to do a lot of repeat soldering
I have that wire soldering jig, my old helping hands have not seen the light of day since I printed it. I like that vise built like a scroll chuck, think I'll do one of them next.
reminded of the cable clamps i made for my housemate to run network cable to the bedrooms of his house (didn't want to drill holes in walls) so i made them clamp to doorways and walls to keep the cables out the way
Seems like the cable soldering jig still has the core issue: the copper strands are hard to keep 100% parallel, they angle away a bit. My fave tool for this is a metal oval, made of two "clampable" horizontal layers. The wires go in-between the layers. The hole in the center is small and fixes the strands as you want them.
@@TrevorV Imagine (clampable) metal tweezers. On each end is a flat loop (~1/2" sq) with a hole in it. You can clamp two cables, so their exposed strands meet within the hole, where you can solder them. Search for "Splice-It-Easy Soldering Tweezer"
Reality to solder both ends should be splayed then put together and twisted. Then the connection should be soldered. Just sitting 2 braided wires next to each other and connecting them with solder is definitely not the proper way. If you do it properly then the wires stay together and the stand can hold them for easier soldering.
At .075 watching speed is wonderful. So normal!!! At my 64 years old my brain works at that speed besides I am a spanish language native. Thanks from Colombia, very helpful.
Ty so much for the mention in your video!! I was pleasantly surprised to find out one of my desings made it to one of your videos!! thanks!! (I'm Bearlord on printables).
just a quick note.. on the table saw, you should have the main body of the board next to the fence, cutting off the small part on the other side of the blade. this is because the thin piece can bow (and often does in natural wood) causing it to press against the blade and then shoot out back at the operator. note for the future. ;-)
Bump for an informative post. The off cut should never be between the blade and the fence. Very dangerous. This does however inspire the design of a 3d printed thin rip jig.
That radius gauge is potentially very deceptive. Most corners in contemporary industrial design are not radiused (G1 continuity) but rather have at least G2 continuity, if not G3 or G4. The actual change in curvature begins much further back than you'd guess at a glance, and the corner is not actually circular. The reason is so that reflections gracefully flow around the corner instead of abruptly forming a sharp line. But it does mean that if you assume it's a radius, you're going to have gaps in anything you model.
There are definitely some useful models there, I use the soldering jig all the time. I love how it lets you hold thick wires and thin resistor leads equally well. I use a thin watery flux, and I'll often place a few drops in the middle of the jig so that I can flux my wire/component and solder away, and keep the mess off the benchtop. My fractal bench dogs (you mentioned my design in your vise video) have been more for novelty than anything else. I just don't find myself needing to clamp irregular objects all that often, or, at least not where 3 points won't do just as well as fractal jaws for holding power. The mechanism is really cool looking though.
Hey man! Generally love the video, but as a shop teacher of 7 years with no injuries on my record, I feel compelled to point out that you're not using the feather board correctly or cutting thin strips safely. I'm really just concerned for your own safety there, and for the safety of beginners who might follow your instructions. For the feather board, make sure it is in front of the blade. You have it partially to the side of the blade. That will apply pressure through the off cut to the side of the blade, potentially causing binding and kickback. The main problem for the thin strip that you cut is that you left it entirely unsupported and uncontrolled between the moving blade and the fence. You can even see it at the end of the cut, when the thin strip lifts up a little bit and is free to get launched by the spinning blade. This is exactly how kickback occurs. If you need to cut a thin strip like this, the safest way to do it is to not cut the thin strip between the fence and the blade but to make it on the offcut side. It takes more work because you have to move your fence for every cut, but you can use jigs to make sure you're positioning your wood at the right distance each time. If you absolutely do have to or, frankly, just want to cut the thin strip between the blade and the fence, you should absolutely use a sacrificial push stick. That's a push stick or push block that you will have right next to the fence and that you will just cut into. That way your workpiece is constantly supported during its time between the blade and the fence. I recommend making it out of wood rather than plastic so it doesn't shatter on contact with the blade. And then never leave the cut piece floating between the moving blade and the fence like you did in this video. That's one of the most common times for kickback to occur. I highly recommend the sacrificial push block anyway. You tend to get a little more control and you should get better cuts too because you don't have your piece wandering around.
I would recommend my push stick (Dovetail Push Block Handle on printables) instead. It uses a dovetail to attach a sacrificial piece of wood on the bottom, as narrow cuts will cut into your push block and with the one in the video you'd have to reprint the whole thing after a while. You can batch out a bunch of wood blocks at once and have them on hand to quickly swap out when you chew one up to much.
I only use helping hands to hold boards, for wires I just use my fingers much like the way that jig works, but that jig seems like a good investment. I'll print one up right away mefinks.
All good, except for the bit with the table saw. You need to provide a downward force on the material between the wood and the fence, or you're going to turn the saw into a rotary slingshot
good vid; the soldering jig has been on my short list for a while. one comment though; if you're seriously considering the corner clamps, have a look at Izzy Swan's corner jig first; it's wooden so no concerns with rigidity, easy to make, and they use wedges so no need for the bar clamps.
I'm currently printing the 4 jaw version of that vice, found it last night while looking at tool collections on printable. I was going to do the 3 jaw version later.
After I switched from Simplify3D to SuperSlicer at your suggestion, it happened that development stopped there too. There has been no new version for almost half a year. In the meantime, both Cura and Prusaslicer came out with the new organic support and a bunch of new features.
Instead of having stepped measuring insets (5mm, 10mm, etc) for marking along the edge of the board, create a wedge shape that lies flat on the board (like the stepped insets do, but make a ruler that slopes backward with the wedge (the rule dimensions would have to be stretched to make up for the angle) - run some small teeth down the front edge to lock the pencil tip. This way, you can mark in millimetres/1/16" increments. I need to get a printer...
also on that first cut you used the push stick you showed i saw the cut moving back with the blade perhaps you should remove the cut using the pushstick (old as it has longer reach) to prevent it from being shot back ?
Hey michael, I originally got a 3d printer to supplement my woodworking/luthier template needs, this video showcases a lot of the stuff I love. The dust collection accessories scale and woodworking tool/accessory costs go out of control without a printer.
Bromo, you've got a Ryobi One+ Soldering Station and One+ Hammer Drill, just get the One+ pin nailer for those wooden drawer inserts. You've also got some One+ LED light! Also, use a cheap chip brush to push the splinters, don't use your hands.
I see others calling it out but I want to reinforce the advice to never have the featherboard pushing your wood into the blade. You needed to move it closer to you. Also do not leave the wood between the blade and fence unsupported, your pushstick should be moving it through the cut. At ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-bktZTYj2ElM.html you state that the wires are held securely as the wires pop apart from each other. Seems it is not the solution it needs to be yet.
Awesome collection, there's a couple of tools I will be printing, also, there is a few nice hole dust collector tools for older Dyson battery vacs, these are brilliant as well.
If your using that push stick that way your begging to get things thrown back at you. Push sticks need to be on the piece your CUTTING, they are sacrificial. You are giving advice there that is not only wrong, but dangerous.
To add to that, push sticks should be made out of a material that won't shatter into sharp pieces if it does contact the blade. Search youtube for vids of people injured by cheap push sticks which were made out of hard plastic. The brittle nature of PLA would have to be as bad. Nylon might be ok.
At 3:36 you could have used the backside of the caliper. Measure when pin is out, and measure again when pin is in. Subtract and you have the exact needed size.
5:30 I wonder if you might benefit from printing an adapter to somehow mount the cable soldering jig to your solder station itself so it doesn't bump around as easily.
7:55 Not going to lie, I wondered when this would really be necessary, the next day I found a use and plan to print it next. Came back just to say as much.
Feather board should not be printed out of such flexible material. The ones you buy are much stiffer. They flex a very small angle. This helps them hold the work piece tighter to the fence and also perform their function as an anti-kickback device better. This is a great video, I am surprised how good the printed vices / clamps work, very cool.
