1214 How To Make A Wind Turbine From A Hoverboard - Part 2 - Finishing And Testing It 

this will produce decent output - if you turn it fast enough and for that you need torque and gearing - ideal for water applications

cheers mate

for sure mate

yep lol

When you put an electrical load on it, it will drag down. Regenerative braking is basically what's happening when the motor supplies power.

absolutely mate

Thank you! Cheers!

it was very cool lol

interesting idea mate - cheers

there are always compelling arguments to justify a position mate - but he is probably right - if you want a wind turbine you have to stick it in the wind

I was there yesterday!

If you can gear up the revolutions then the speed is not a problem with vertical turbine either. I have supplies for double oil drum savoniuses, stacking them and rising four meters from ground on field. Have couple of hoverboard motors but unsure how to gear one up to spin it faster. Have you got your project going?

I made a little tester this weekend using some 200l blue water barrels, cut thin to wide in an ‘s’ bend, then alternated the tops and bottoms around two bike wheels independently fixed into a frame top and bottom. Two rotors in the frame side by side, one higher then the other, and mounted the motors underneath and above each turbine so I could run a belt from each to the other (about 3 metres length!) works out about 5:1 ratio by my rudimentary counting! Just a toy project at the minute, as I’ve never really built my own design before haha! Hoping to hinge the blades on the drag sides, hence to offset in blade position(high/low) to counteract the imbalance created. Turns pretty well in low winds, sadly missed the weekend storms! 😂

all the electronics are external to the motor with the exception of the sensors - and it would produce 5-10 amps at 18-30 volts if it was spinning fast enough - the problem here is it just wasn't spinning fast enough to produce much

cheers mate

I don't know - but that doesn't sound right

You need a three phase rectifier that turns alternating current (AC) coming from those three wires into direct current (DC) in two wires. You can make one yourself using six diodes you can take from old appliances, old UPS's hold strong ones. Or you can order one from the 'net, couple of euros, maybe ten. Just connect three wires in and you got two wires with plus and minus. Use any search engine and study it a bit. Not hard at all. Now you've got DC capable of running and charging many devices but the voltage is here and there. If you go too high, you can damage delicate electronics. If you plan to charge something like 12,6V lithium batteries, best thing would be a buck converter. This is a bit more complex to make than bridge rectifier so ordering 300W capable one for 10€ is a no brainer. With that you can adjust steady output voltage and amps lithium batteries need. You need to remember that buck converters have an upper voltage limit so way too high voltage in can damage stuff. If you plan on charging lead acid batteries, just get yourself a charge controller and input the power from the buck converter. Some charge controllers take higher voltages in, then you don't need the buck converter. If you are new to electronics and some of this stuff seems alien, you can try charging smaller batteries, like phones and power banks first. Just get six diodes, twist them together and connect them on 12V/24V USB charger meant for car cigarette plug. Now you spin the three phase generator, rectify it in DC and convert it into 5V. 5V/9V/12V/15V/20V if your charger outputs it. 10€ car cigarette plug chargers have built-in buck converter, not as sturdy as a buck converter in the same prize but it works. Maybe monitor the input voltage coming in with a multimeter when connected on the charger, best not to get over 30V. Hope this helps. Please, try stuff and experiment. Worst thing you could do is fail and learn from your mistakes. Maybe fry some cheap electronics so don't plug your phone first in, check it with multimeter and try out with cheaper stuff.

Surely but with a lot less torque.

you could always look it top mate it is a razor hovertrax hoverboard

exactly what I am thinking mate lol

@@ThinkingandTinkering remember to use steer on that board you will only need stick controls going to the board. Good luck.

You would also need double the wind. When you actually charge a battery with the thing, it will create resistance.

@@rogerfreeman6787 I see, so you would be better off then making 2 turbines? That way the same breeze can power 2 turbines?

lol - we reuse quite a few bits

ball bearings give a bit of resistance, need to find out how to make them glide better. I wouldn't remove any magnets though

Glad you think so!

Gravity is so weak though. You wouldn't be achieving a lot. I back of the enveloped once that you need to raise a house to the height of a house to store the same energy as a car battery.

i have done videos on how to do that mate

see video 1217

cool!

I think you used the wrong word (length)? If you meant to ask "does power output decrease the longer a cable is", then yes. I have an angle grinder that spins a little slower when using a 30m cable. Because the wire in the cable has resistance. So the longer a cable is, the greater the total resistance, so the more voltage is dropped across the cable, which in turn reduces total power output. e.g. If you have 100V in, but 80V out of a cable, you've obviously lost about 20% of the available voltage/current/power. Very generally speaking, doubling or halving cable length in turn doubles or halves resistance. So if for example you measured 10A output at the motor (where for calculation purposes you can assume you have zero ohms resistance), then you connect a 10m cable and get only 5A output, you could offset that loss somewhat by increasing cable thickness. In this example, since the loss is exactly half, you could assume (theoretically) that halving the cable length, or doubling cable thickness, would give you close to the original 10A output again. In the real world you probably won't achieve the full 10A at the output. But it does give you a realistic target for cable length or thickness, because increasing thickness any more than x2 probably won't have much if any further gain. i.e. You might double cable thickness but still lose half an amp (only get a total of 9.5A out), but the extra cost of getting even thicker cable wouldn't be worth the next 100mA you only MIGHT squeeze out. You could also correct a combination of both length and thickness. e.g. You might be able to shorten a cable AND increase length which might be cheaper but produce the same result. Does that answer it?

I am not quite sure what you mean mate - but as a cable gets longer resistance goes up so voltage at the end you use it goes down. They call this voltage drop and is a serious problem for very long cables

why? - output isn't really a function of motor design - it to do with number of turns of wire, magnetic field strength and speed of rotation

@@ThinkingandTinkering I agree with all of the above but that motor does have powerfull magnets and a lot of coils with what looks like thick wire windings ..so at low RPM i would expect low voltage but higher curent . but i may be missing something .

it's a brushless DC - on a normal DC the brushes and commutator act as a rectifier. Here there are no brushes or commutator - so - AC output

sorry mate - what grills? what windows?

it was a 6 diode 3 phase rectifier mate - from specs on this at this wind speed you would expect 2-3 watts output

@@ThinkingandTinkering thanks for the reply, in the video we couldn't see the rectifier.

@@wizrom3046 sorry mate my bad - I have made a few vids on 3 phase rectifiers and I just assumed everyone would know that's the kind of rectifier you would have to use

that doesn't sound right mate - why would a PWM do anything on a generator? Isn't PWM to do with motor speed control?

@@ThinkingandTinkering Hi, when used with a generator it greatly reduces the back EMF at the stator. Less heating at the stator. I use a variable PWM on my hand crank generator and peddle Gen when charging super capacitors. They are about $10.00 on ebay.

PWM is used with wind, solar and regenerative braking systems. Without it all your doing is generating a lot heat at the stator

pretty much the same

now that is a very good idea mate

@@ThinkingandTinkering , thank you, I do have them very occasionally :)

there is a lot of torque on these mate and machining the face would weaken it without a doubt - but I would think you could just fill the saw blade design with resin filler and overpaint

@@ThinkingandTinkering Thanks. Yeah I was thinking that too actually as I was typing. I guess I was hoping that because part of the pattern is shallower, that I'd be able to machine the higher area at least down to that same lower level.

The ones I have would be 2.4mm thick after machining flat.

aren't 3-blade designs generally agreed upon to be the most efficient? in what specific situations would a 6-blade variant be preferred?

@@DimitriPappas its more for low wind rpms... my 6blade turbine makes 4v in 1.5 meters per sec... thats why i prefer 6 blades not 3 and output also is 186w in good 21 meter gust

@@DimitriPappas More blades, more torque, more self braking. So, in very windy areas one could benefit of 6 blade system and while spinning slower, giving more power to the people.

@@Teknopottu More power to the people!!😂 Sure sounds like a winner then😉

@@Teknopottu for wind braking yes... if blades would be good and heavy not from pvc then output would be max 250-280w... but my turbine have got only 186w before it started wind braking... 3blades are good for more rpm in end but they are not good for low wind... and yes it all depends from area... in my videos you can see my area and its full of dirty wind... but it still makes constant power of 80watts when wind is 11 meters per sec

that doesn't seem right to me mate - a motor like this is going to be in delta or 'Y' configuration wiring - delta is the same as your series wound and Y is the same as your parallel isn't it?

@@ThinkingandTinkering not quite, you will need too use the hall sensor wires unless you can get your own wires through the hole.

I would think so mate

There are videos on here of people drilling spoke holes and using them as hub motors. But the comments often say one motor is not very powerful and so requires that you push off manually to get it rolling first, or if you try to go from a standing start they burn out I assume. Then a few comments say to use both motors on the same bike to get a better result.

@@realfamilyman i think when used as a hub motor it might not be able to provide proper torque but if we use it's rubber tire as a Friction drive then we will have a huge Reduction which will definitely provide the torque needed.... Also the speed will be reduced quit a bit.... But that's where we have to sacrifice.

sounds good mate

I don't think so mate - the blue length is actually good as the torque on this little motor is actually quite high

@@ThinkingandTinkering Ok So a water turbine may be better, than a wind.