Thanks for the Christmas video! I always enjoy your repair videos! This one especially sense it gives me some insight on a powered speaker of mine that has a similar problem
Very interesting failure, as the others said before, it is rather unlikely that only the big filter cap dies. I guess you never stop to learn, thanks for the look.
Great video. I have two of the same speakers. My issue is the cabinet rattles. I hear the rattling from the back. I tighten all the screws in the back panel and the front. I thought maybe the whole case was loose or subwoofer was loose. But they did not fix anything I still hear the rattling. I know when I first bought the speakers it sounded nice and punchy. The rattle Sound only comes from the back of the speakers when I am in front of the speakers anything above 5 feet or further the speaker sounds fine sounds great and no rattling from the front. It’s just from the back the whole cabinet sounds like it’s rattling even on the smallest amount of bass. Any idea?
Hello, DC voltages cannot be measured because the PWM circuit of the DXR15 device, which has water in it, does not work. My question to you will be, does the YC775 supply dc voltages to the amps board when the other, TWAMP and DSP board are not connected? I want to go step by step as other cards also have faults.
I have bought a couple of Yamaha DRX12. After four years of operation, one of them has failed. Pressing the power switch simultaneously turns on the two “power” and “protection” led for an instant and then turns off and the device is dead. Could you give me some suggestions on the problem an if the fault could lie in the large 680uF capacitor of the switching power supply? The tw DRX12s were installed in a wall of a bar and never moved. Thank you.
where are u based?ive got a dsr115 not working .protection light on.can u repair? been told needs new amp module, but surely just a component has gone ?
Подскажите какие микросхемы стоят в усилителях. IRF? или TPA?и какие мосфеты выходного каскада. Очень интересна реальная мощность аппарата. Заранее спасибо.
Great video. Thanks for your help. I have a Yamaha DXR15 which got some water damage over the weekend. I tried powering up and it wont work. Do you think it would be fixable. I had the problem before with another speaker and I replaced the fuse and it worked fine. but in this case i cant seem to find the fuse? Any ideas or advice you could give me please?
I have a DXR12 the subwoofer is not working. The tweeter works but no sound from the subwoofer. The subwoofer is not blown. Any ideas what it could be?
Looking at one of these for a friend. Twice it's blown the switching transistors and associated low ohm resistors and switching chip. Had to dig out my variac so I could try and run it at a much lower voltage only to find my variac had broken in storage, not sure how that happened. Running a sine wave through it, it worked at low output but seems to go full on at a point and blow the power supply. Put to one side for a long time. Got a new variac now so back on it when I get a chance.
You will likely chase your tail with a unit like this. They're just not reliable. When they work, they work ok - but once they start failing, you are on a hiding to nothing. Fix one fault and a new one develops. Just bad design with poor quality components.
@@sw6188 You are probably right. I was going to power it up just so the switching chip turned on so I could test it a low voltage but my variac had failed so I had to do it at full voltage which took out the switching side cooking the low ohm resistors and one of the amp transistors. Have left it til now, bought a new variac. Seems like at very low volume it works then at a certain point on the voloume pot it goes full on dc to the poer transistor. You'd think the over currant circuit would save it but I need to check that?
@@richardballinger517 I rarely agree to look at units like this because much like trying to repair CD players, they usually just turn to custard no matter what you do. There are supposedly protection circuits to stop things from blowing up, but I have yet to see one work properly. I'm not a fan of switch mode power supplies or Class D output stages, both of them seem to be unnecessarily complicated and problematic to fix.
The problem with this stuff is the only thing that is actually 'Yamaha' is the badge on the front. The rest is generic, chinese junk. Companies like Yamaha have done themselves no favours by doing this. I have seen a lot of products from reputed manufacturers that do the same thing. Their badge on the outside, china junk inside. All built to a price, and they use the crappiest capacitors they can find. I've even seen different chinesium capacitor brands in the same unit. Boards full of SMD, leaking capacitors, usually switch mode power supplies and Class D audio output. The two worst technologies combined. Invariably no service information available. If it's a difficult fault (not just a capacitor) and you do manage to fix it, there's no guarantee it will last. It will likely bounce back a week later with the same fault or a different one - or it will have just exploded violently rendering the whole unit trash bin material. Just awful.
I cannot agree with your assessment. I find Yamaha build quality to be quite good. Rubycon is a reputable brand of capacitors, one of the best. What do you mean by "boards full of SMD"? Is that a problem? Switch mode power supplies and class D amplifiers is the finest modern technology. Service manuals are often available. At least I found one for this model.
@@feedback-loop Orindarily I would say that Yamaha's quality is very good as well - I have serviced a lot of it over the years and I know what their build criteria is like, the style of construction and so on. The question I would have here is "Are the internals actually made by Yamaha?" Judging from the quick look I had at the boards in your video, I would say not. As I mentioned, it's common now for name brand manufacturers like Yamaha, Denon, Rotel and others to buy in generic units (or boards) and just put their badge on it. This allows them to fill a gap in the market without having to spend millions on R & D and manufacturing, thereby keeping the cost down. Rubycon is a reasonable quality part, but are they genuine Rubycons? A lot of the chinese boards have caps on them which are fakes - they have the good brand names but they're not the genuine article. As an example, a unit I serviced last week had 'ELNA' brand capacitors in it but the sleeves were a dark green color. Elna never used that color of sleeving, and given the unit was a cheap chinese item I can guarantee those caps were fakes. That wasn't the only brand of cap either - there were Suntan and CapXon and various others all mixed in. By 'boards full of SMD' I mean most of this stuff now is getting much harder to repair, if it can be repaired at all. The size of the SMD is getting smaller all the time, to the point where repair by human hands is almost impossible in some instances. Sorry but I don't agree that switch mode power supplies and class D amplification is the finest modern technology. I see more units across my bench that are faulty or blown up that use either or both of these forms of construction, compared to any other unit that uses a linear power supply or conventional class A/B output. I'm pleased you were able to find a service manual. In a lot of cases, no service info can be found - even the end manufacturer might not have it despite the fact they 'produced' the item. It's another reason I am not a fan of rebadged chinese stuff. Anyway, your experiences may vary - but that's my experience over the past 30 years of dealing with domestic and pro-sumer audio equipment repairs.
@@sw6188 I think you mixed so many things together. Yes, there is a problem of fake components in the industry. Yes, schematics are not generally available (again this is not just about Yamaha). Yes, everyone is trying to save money by moving production to countries with cheap labor or by outsourcing and such. What would you expect? Every CEO has a duty to consider all legal means to stay competitive and bring more return on investment and so on. It is arguable if some companies strike the right cost-quality balance (if there is such thing as the right balance here). Regarding SMPS and class D, they are the state of the art these days. I think you see them often in your shop not because they are inherently bad, but because they dominate the landscape, and nearly all products are based on them, and rightly so.
Great video! Very informative, Any idea what might be happening with my DXR15? It makes this gurgling RF interference sound. It is intermittent but very annoying... ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-pAeb_K6kASQ.html Any help or advice would be much appreciated.
