I came across this in early 2023 and built one for my cabin. I added a 12V thermostat to keep the water at 101F. I am currently building the shower using a 500 gpm bilge pump as outlined in one of your other vids. I repurposed a Harbor Freight 100W solar kit charging a 100amh battery to power my shower and outdoor washing station. I also followed your design to make a 5-gallon bucket cooler for my cabin. I'll see how it works this summer. Thanks for the great ideas.
@@desertsun02 one thing I might add would be a W3230 temperature controller, Wire it to your heating element and power supply. Shove the temperature probe into the cold side of the reservoir and set the controller to trigger on the heating element once the water in the drops below 130° F. That way you can leave the set up running 24/7, You won't have to worry about burning out the heater or worse, your house; and the water will be above 135°F at all times.
Great vid. Quick question on projecting time it would take a 10 gallon water heater to go from room temp of 70s to a 100 degree shower: It would stand to reason that since you found 6-8 min 6-8 gallon shower a 2 hour warm up affair that a 10 gallon setup would surpass the 2 hour mark by a bit but maybe not by an entire hour. In a real world application where not everyone would want to wait 2 hours for a hot shower, what are your thoughts on bumping up from the 150W water heater element to a 300W? Maybe more like an hour-ish to get a 10 gallon tank to temp? You end up using 24 Amps in that hour....within the capacity of a standard deep cycle battery. A single 100W solar panel shouldn't have too much trouble recovering from that hit with an approx 30 amps/day collection rate. So running some rough projections...2 panels would roughly equal two 10 minute showers with a 1 GPM showerhead and a 10 gallon tank. And those 2 showers would have to be staggered about an hour apart. So if one person tends to be up and shower before the other this could work pretty well. Could push the envelope a little with that 2nd shower still pulling off the same deep cycle battery but 48 Amps for 2 showers puts many 81-100AH deep cycle batteries in the 50% territory. I guess the hope is the morning rays start charging the panel by the 1st shower and before/during the 2nd shower. Obviously a 2nd battery run parallel would be a safer/smarter bet for the cloudy days. Feel like I typed a bit more than I thought I would but figured being more specific with the question and scenarios helps paint a clear picture. Maybe a little thicker wiring since you are pushing 24 amps with the 300W setup vs the 150W 12 amp setup you are using.
Awesome video! Thank you 🙏 However, I'm having trouble finding the items needed on Amazon (probably because I'm not using the correct terminology). Links and/or pictures of packaging for the flange and heating element (like you did for the ice chest) would have been very helpful. Also, I'm not clear how to attach to the power source.
hi and thank you! amazon still has both the flange and the element. the flange is a camco 7223. here's the link www.amazon.com/Camco-7223-Universal-Adapter-Kit/dp/B000BQMK9C/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=camco+7223&qid=1699378523&sr=8-1 the heating element is a 150w dernord heating element. here's the link for that www.amazon.com/Dernord-Immersion-Submersible-Element-Stainless/dp/B0761L2Q8M/ref=sr_1_9?crid=3342738J8LHOY&keywords=dernord+150w+element&qid=1699378616&sprefix=dernord+150w+element%2Caps%2C177&sr=8-9 it's just a straight connect to connect it to the power source. positive to positive and negative to negative.
PLEASE DO A COMPARISON BETWEEN THE AC WATER HEATING ELEMENT WHICH YOU FEATURED RECENTLY AND THIS DC ONE. IM CONSIDERING INVESTING IN SOME .IM DYING TO KNOW WHICH IS BETTER.I CANT AFFORD EXPERIMENTS GONE BAD AT THIS POINT.THANK YOU FOR TESTING SOLAR STUFF SO WE DONT HAVE TO .I REALLY GET A KICK OUT OF YOUR PROJECTS.EXCUSE MY WACKED All CAPS KEYBOARD.
I think i am going to use your fabulous idea and incorporate it into a DIY shower. Im hoping that 480w of solar can give me hot showers every few days in winter without underchanging my battery. Thanks so much for taking the time to upload and share your ideas. :D
Several years ago i probed my mates muck heap, only because i happened to have a temperature probe in my car. I was suprised to find the temperature inside the heap, about a foot in, was just shy of 60°C. This is above legionella bacteria temperature and last I heard he was looking at ways to heat up a water tank in his small horse shed.
Unfortunately that is the down side of low voltage water heating. The higher the wattage of a heater the more current drain on the battery and cable size required. I do think tho in light of energy prices rising it won't be long before larger 12v elements are manufactured.
@@kansaIainen awh that makes sense. can I ask for a recommended relay. I'm just learning about all this. thanks! maybe a TWTADE SSR-25 DD 25A DC 3-32V to DC 5-60V SSR Solid State Relay + Heat Sink
Would I be able to Take a standard 6-gallon Rv propane/electric hot water tank that runs off 110-120V and change the element to 12V DC? I can't see any flaw in my thoughts but I believe you probably thought about this way more than I. :)... Hmmm I guess i would have to attach a Temperature shut power off sensor on it. Perhaps take a sensor to the outside of the metal and have the power go through the controller...
Thanks ! What size cable with the crocodile clips on ? As in, if using from a 12v battery to the element terminals. That would also need a 15amp fuse on the live from the battery to the heater terminal.
Is there a way we could make a water heater for showers from 5v portable battery devices? That would be amazing. Wouldn't have to be super hot, just warm enough to stand in.
Wonder if this could work for a Water tank mounted under My sprinter van hooked up to a toggle switch so my water doesn’t freeze in the winter and then I also could turn it off when it’s not needed so power isn’t being wasted during the summer time.
I have a 500w solar panel and wind turbine kit from Amazon, as yet unused, in light of the power companies ripping us off i am looking for a low voltage method to heat water for shower use or general use. I think more equipment will enter the market based on this to enable consumets to rely less and less on the grip and more importantly stop getting ripped of. I would like to see your system rigged up to an off grid set up with actual power usage and time records shown.
I am going to use this same concept for a in floor radiant heat system. My concept is using large electric water heater and swtich out the elements for higher wattage elements. Run the right amount of panels to the elements and then using a DC boiler pump with direct connection to solar. This will allow the pump to kick on in the early morning hours and then the heat elements to draw as much energy as it can heating the water up as the whole day goes. This should provide more than enough heat during the day and still be pretty warm at night. This is not going to be the main heat source just additional heat. I have not seen anyone do anything like this in their builds. Though I have seen some where they loop the pex under their wood floors then put aluminum foil ( towards the floor and pipe )backed foam between the joist using scraps of wood then insulate it with fiberglass and then stapled up house wrap. This allowed that floor to heat up and produce some heat for the place. If I recall the person did this with a combination of hot water panels, wood boiler stove, and DC heat with water heater. I would buy a water tank that was set up with DC connections and works with a solar array voltage of 600v up to 10kwh. Built in thermostat and a water tank volume of 20 to 100 gallons. This would not only work for my project it would also work in any home by adding a pre heat water heater.
this will work, and will be VERY reliable. That said, you would get about 3 times as much heat output using the same amount of power with a good mini split heat pump. I have an Innovair unit that works AMAZINGLY on my solar system. At most it pulls 1200 watts, and heats about 800 square feet for me in the south where it doesn't get too cold. Also handles the air conditioning just as well even when it's 105 degrees out! Too bad it's not on the market anymore. Has a very high SEER rating. 30 if I remember correctly. I do NOT know much about the premade heat pump water heaters, but for the price they are charging for them, they had better be good! Give one a shot, make a video, and post it for us to see?
I am using a pre-heat water heater as a dump load in my system already and it works great to soak up the extra power when the batteries are full, but let me tell you, it soaks up GOBS of power, and heats the water VERY slowly!
@@sbartasek We are now looking at just buying a full on solar system hybrid type that sells back the energy that we do not use or what we do not use to charge the battery bank. Heat/cooling I think will be done via a heat pump. Full size unit with traditional hvac system with hepa filters and pre filters. We like the idea of having several mini splits, one per room which would account for 8 units. Though the only thing that I do not like about the mini splits is their filter systems and the fact that we are going to have to pull them apart and clean them from time to time. If we just install a full on heat pump we can pre filter them in each room and then hepa filter tham at the unit. (pre filter means that the returns will have filters at each of the 8 returns) When we build we are still going to put in 8 zones of pex tubing because it is super cheap to do at the time of building. I also am still looking in to electric flooring as well. Though the one major thing about those are the cost of the electric flooring. The price per foot is expensive and with out knowing anything about them. Some of the instructions talk about every 3 to 6 inches. Imagine a grid of them over 3000 square feet is going to be quite a lot. 12000 to 6000 liner feet to be exact. Then they spec around 10 watts per foot. We are talking 120kwh to 60kwh peak loads. This is why its disconcering when looking at electric flooring. Deye is a company that makes mini splits that allow direct connections to solar. They have a built in mppt controller. The company also offers a water heater in the same style. The specs state something along 3kwh max solar while I have seen videos where people are putting only 1kwh or less on them. Though I still wonder how they will work when the sun is super low and its in the dead of winter. Which is why we are 100% now considering just going with a solar system with grid connection. We are not going to do net metering and opt to sell back to the grid instead. The net metering would be nice if we were going with just grid tied solar. Yet we want to be "off grid" and to not rely on the grid for power. While we have not gone with out power for more than several hours we fear there may be a time in which the power can go down for several days. We are lucky to have natural gas, yet the price of said gas is becoming costly to keep it going for heat. While we use it right now for cooking, water heating and heating we would like to reduce it down to some cooking and switch to electric on almost everything else. I have switched out my gas griddle and char grill for an electric 24 inch griddle and a 8x14 pannini grill. So far things have work out pretty good on that end. Out cook stove is natural gas and in the future would like to install a double electric oven while still keeping the range intact. We also plan on doing a induction or electric cook top. To do induction we would have to really consider an expensive swap of our cookware. Of the 3 newest saucier pans we got they are induction ready. Yet I was thinking about swaping out my entire cookware set and buying a new set which runs around 1000 dollars. Induction ready runs about 2300. Anyways I have some options and need to do some more reasearch. I have even thought about the well type heat pumps as well.
Have you done any analysis on how much power this takes? How many times can you do this inns fully charged battery? How do you charge your batteries back up after?
Where did you find that flange for the heating element? I can't seem to find it. I'm talking about the part you siliconed to the cooler. Any help would be appreciated 👍
hi. i got in on amazon. this looks like the one www.amazon.com/Camco-7223-Universal-Adapter-Kit/dp/B000BQMK9C/ref=sr_1_2?crid=2ZFEVLF4HB57P&keywords=camco+flange&qid=1659393789&sprefix=camco+flag%2Caps%2C243&sr=8-2
Can I ask where you bought the heating element?? If you have any suggestions from shops online that would be really helpful...its just for a really important subject
Let me see, working all day in the field, would love a shower just now, ok i am not working in the field, but off grid, 2 hours, then have a shower, brilliant excellent video, options to change elements for faster heating and all instructions, well done, regards, jeff.
hi there. the brand is camco. i get them on amazon. here's is a link to the same one i used (i think it's the same one) www.amazon.com/Camco-7223-Universal-Adapter-Kit/dp/B000BQMK9C/ref=sr_1_15?crid=2OBIS9QPNNKF4&keywords=camco+flange+water+heater+element&qid=1654612931&sprefix=camco+flange%2Caps%2C128&sr=8-15
Love your videos, but ,may I ask as to where I might find the metal plait used for the heat element ? I searched via, amzn, home depot, lowes , I need an specific name for the product , please
hi. sure, it's a camco 7223. i'll look for the link. here's a link www.amazon.com/Camco-7223-Universal-Adapter-Kit/dp/B000BQMK9C/ref=asc_df_B000BQMK9C/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=167126276842&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=10731266949937950352&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9030035&hvtargid=pla-275328510901&psc=1
hi. i get them on amazon. it's a camco 7223 flange. here is the link www.amazon.com/Camco-7223-Universal-Adapter-Kit/dp/B000BQMK9C/ref=sr_1_1_mod_primary_new?keywords=camco+7223&qid=1664484083&qu=eyJxc2MiOiIwLjAwIiwicXNhIjoiMC4wMCIsInFzcCI6IjAuMDAifQ%3D%3D&sbo=RZvfv%2F%2FHxDF%2BO5021pAnSA%3D%3D&sr=8-1
hi there. yes you can. a 300w element might pull about 25 amps though so you would probably want to use a battery bank. you may have to use a thicker wire too. you might want to use 10 awg or even 8. i'm not sure if 12 awg will handle the amps.
@@desertsun02 thank you for responding. I happened to have some 8 guage wire, added the proper lugs and 30 amp gator clips. I used a bulk head fitting to install the element in a 5 gallon bucket and a rechargeable portable water pump with a shower head. I plan to use this in my tiny 1967 camper. 300 watts may not heat up quick but it does work with very little work on my part and won't cost a penny here on out. Im using 210 amp hour deep cycle batteries with a Victron Battery protect to prevent under voltage. Super cool diy project my friend! Thank you.
hi. here's the link to the one on their website www.dernord.com/products/12v-150w-immersion-heater-submersible-water-heater-element-1-inch-npt-flange also, if you just type in '150w dernord' you'll get a whole page of links.
I’ve messed around with this stuff a lot - had a thermal solar system that is in really rough shape after 15 yrs - LOVE your simple/genius approach to this!
Was thinking of somthing like this for heating in a van conversion. Most have large tanks of water if its steadily being warmed by the batterys/solar should provide a sort of central heating effect..
@@desertsun02 How can the element be stabilized in a water tank while bouncing down the road? A bulkhead flange seems inadequate to stop the element from bouncing and torquing the seal loose or breaking the element itself while driving... thoughts? Maybe the element could be secured against the water tank at the end of the element? using a material that can handle the heat?
Very good. I done a similar thing with a steel 230v 20l water urn. Added a 12v 100w & 12v 600w element. 600w heats 15l to 30deg in 15 mins for showering (no cold mix).100w to heat water up slower but lower wattage (never used). Added a probe & wired it up to thermostat for regulated temperature. Added a round bowl with sink hole inside 3/4 way up to act as a baffle. External self priming pump added to push water to sink or shower. External cold water tank under van pumps water to water urn if needed. Urn has original water gauge to show how full. Finished it off by added insulating jacket (silver floor insulation) Cooler chest is simplier to make. This fits under sink unit & installed in my van conversion. Container holds heat for hours as insulated. No leakage either in transit. Cooler chest is a simplier solution & a great idea. Originally I was going to use a 20l metal new petrol container. Problem was fuel container has to be stainless steel. My set up is 200w solar panel with 12v 220amp battery. Cool chest does not corrode which is a good choice. Well done great video.
Hi, just looked on eBay item descriptions at pricing to UK are: Temperature controller: Ebay description: 12/24V Digital LED Temperature Controller Switch Probe 10A Thermostat Control £4.59 + 42p postage Water heater: eBay description: Water heater, cartridge heater 12v 100w, 1/2" bsp, antifreeze, animal troughs £26 including postage.I bought this in error ordering a 100w instead of 600w but still installed it anyway. Regards Jas.
@@jasonannesley5889 Jason, for your van, how do you stabilize the element while driving? I'm considering installing an element in a water tank in my van, where I would screw it into a bulkhead flange or similar, but I'm afraid it will bounce like crazy while driving, ultimately loosening the seal, or having the hot metal element bouncing on the side of the plastic water tank. It seems like the 7 inch element would have a lot of torque on the flange when it bounces ...Thoughts?
Hi, the heater element has a 1/2 BSP thread. I put a 1/2 BSP nut on the inside of the water tank I placed it in. I also used waterproof high temperature sealant around threads to make it 100% leak proof & left it to set 24hr. The knack when installing it in your project is don't install the element too close to the bottom of the tank (so element doesn't touch bottom & melt tank). Place element like guy has in video. Drill a hole in the tank so the element fits tight with no play. For gauging drill bit, drill in a off cut piece off wood. If element sits snug in hole you are using the correct drill bit. Only use tank for heating when water is in tank covering element. Never switch on with tank empty. Element can get extremely hot & burn out. As mentioned in my original comment I made my heater from a stainless steel water urn. My water tank sits under my sink cupboard on a flat surface. For added security there are 2 bungy cords strapped around it for added safety. The cupboard holds a 25l cold water tank & a 15l waste tank for sink. As they are all tightly packed in cupboard with doors secured with baby locks I have had no issues with water leaks or movement. All I would say is test everything before installing it. Regarding your tank you can strap it down with straps or use metal banding to secure it or if it has mounting holes uses these. It may be worth putting some padding underneath tank to reduce vibration. Padded insulation, even old piece of carpet etc. Regards Jas.
Do you have any advice or can point me in the direction of a wiring diagram for these? I have a twin element one and it took a very long time to heat up and used a lot of battery! Many thanks
hi. you can get those on amazon the one i used is a camco 7227 or 07227 (that is by memory) - let me check the site. i can't find the camco one but here is another one www.amazon.com/Reliance-9000030045-Element-Adapter-Kit/dp/B000H5S3JS/ref=sr_1_4?crid=1QO8X62UK8P1R&keywords=water+heater+universal+adapter&qid=1698270009&sprefix=water+heater+universal+adapter%2Caps%2C149&sr=8-4 look for best price. i just found the camco one it's 07223. www.amazon.com/Camco-7223-Universal-Adapter-Kit/dp/B000BQMK9C/ref=sr_1_2?crid=3JVY9CIZFTR1H&keywords=water+heater+element+adapter&qid=1698270156&sprefix=water+heater+adapter%2Caps%2C232&sr=8-2
Excellent job! I really want to make one of these. Could you possibly provide the link for the Universal Flange Kit? I cant find it on Amazon. Many thanks! and congratulations again, on a job well done!!
hi and thanks. to find them just type in water heater universal adapter. here is the link to the best one (in my opinion) www.amazon.com/Camco-7223-Universal-Adapter-Kit/dp/B000BQMK9C/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=water+heater+universal+adapter&qid=1575484239&sr=8-1
At 150W it draws 150w/hr over the hour, if the Jackery has a standard cigarette type 12v socket , thats rated at 15amps, the socket is rated at 180W, so at 150W it can be plugged straight in
@@ianhj4550 @desertsun02 Will attaching this (www.amazon.com/dp/B07JCRTX8G/ref=sspa_dk_detail_2?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B07JCRTX8G&pd_rd_w=Az1hj&content-id=amzn1.sym.3481f441-61ac-4028-9c1a-7f9ce8ec50c5&pf_rd_p=3481f441-61ac-4028-9c1a-7f9ce8ec50c5&pf_rd_r=FD61XKZBVKAV2JKZJ073&pd_rd_wg=tePEN&pd_rd_r=ed507e8f-81b9-4dfc-83f2-ce518a7ba01f&s=electronics&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9kZXRhaWxfdGhlbWF0aWM&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEzS1paRENEVjdHWDJFJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNzAwMjg1MVhINjdFSVlPQUFHTyZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwNzU0OTk4MklVWjE5SzdRSVIwUCZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2RldGFpbF90aGVtYXRpYyZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=) work even though it has eyelet terminals? I have a goal zero and a powkey.
hi there. 2 main things allow it to work. one is that the water keeps the element relatively cool (just make sure the element is totally submerged). the other reason is that the element doesn't really get hot at the base (near the ice-chest). it gets hot an inch or two out from it. *notice that the small bubbles don't form near the base. 🙂
I tried connecting up a 400 Watt panel to one of these elements rated at 12V DC. I mounted the element in a tank of water. When I checked the voltage in the circuit, it was reading only about 3 volts. It didn't seem to be getting hot even though it was sunny outside. Any idea what is wrong with this setup?
i can't think of anything that would cause the voltage to be 3v. possible things to check would be to take a reading on the panel (without the element attached) to see if it's working right. make sure you are using wire that can handle the amps. make sure connections are tight. it could be a faulty element (but that is unlikely). the elements are very tough. make sure nothing is covering even one cell on your panel. many panels will barely work at all if even one cell is shaded. the funny thing is that if the entire panel is shaded evenly then it still works fairly well (but a little shade on one-half of just one cell and there is a massive drop in power). only other thing is are you sure the panel is 12v? nearly all 12v panels are 200w or less. 300 or 400 watt panels usually have much higher voltage.
@@desertsun02Hi. Thanks for the reply. You are right, the panel is 33V open circuit, but I thought that higher voltage would have been an advantage? I measured the voltage coming from the panel to be about 33V on a sunny day. I measured 3V across the terminals of the element when connected to the panel. The element has 12V 300W stamped on it. When I connected the element to a 12 volt battery, it did get very hot, but the battery was draining very quickly and the voltage was dropping. So I would rather have a system which does not use a battery, just solar panel.
hi there. i got that on amazon. cost about $6. this one looks similar www.amazon.com/Camco-7223-Universal-Adapter-Kit/dp/B000BQMK9C/ref=sr_1_22?dchild=1&keywords=water+heater+unversal+adapter+1%22+threads&qid=1588266777&sr=8-22
hi. you can use any 12v source that will give you the amps. it pulls about 12.5 amps. it's a straight connect from the heating element to the power source. you can use a 12v deep cycle battery or batteries. you can hook it straight to a 12 volt solar panel or panels. (i hook it to two 100w 12v solar panels). it's only 12.5 amps so you can even run it using your cars' 12v power socket (assuming the fuse for that socket is 15 amps). you can also run it off of an ac to dc transformer (i use a 15amp one).
@@desertsun02 A lot of this is new to me. Is a 20w Solar Panel not gonna work? Or will it blow something......I assume I should just connect batteries that total 12v and just call it good.....?
hi. a 12v 20w solar panel won't work. that would probably only be a 1 amp panel. 12v 100w solar panels usually produce 5.5 or 6 amps. i use 2 of them to get to roughly 12 amps. if you're going to use a 12v battery, it should probably be a 12v deep cycle battery.
So how do you keep the water from soaking into the inside and outside layers of the cooler? I tried to make an insulated chicken water with an insulated jug and water ran in between the two layers and leaked.
hi there. most ice chests have a type of 'foam insulation' between the inner and outer walls. the foam keeps out all the water. i guess some really small containers skip the foam insulation (so you'll need to use one with it).
Discourses For Higher Enlightenment depends on the insulation of course but 12 amp draw and takes 1 hr to heat means 12 amp hours so your standard 100 amp hour 12v battery which is really a 50 amp hour battery would be able to fully re heat the water from cold four times before being classed as flat. The better the insulation the longer the water stays hot between heating phases.
@@ctm130 Because every time a lead acid based battery is used, it loses a tiny bit of capacity due to degradation. This isn't very noticeable during standard use in a car/truck. But, as you discharge further and further, more damage is done. If you discharge past 50% capacity every time, you nearly cut your battery life in half. If you discharge to absolute 0, you run a risk of the battery not being able to recover. Battery life is measured in cycles, so naturally, it does count as a "cycle" every so often. A "cycle" is a total percentage of the capacity being used and recharged. So say you have a battery that's rated for 10 cycles. If you use 50% of the battery per day and then recharge it to 100% that night, the battery will last 20 days. If you use 95% of the battery per day and then recharge it to 100% that night, the battery will last 10 1/2 days. This is obviously generalized for simplicity, but that's the idea of it. Most AGMs are rated at a couple thousand or more total cycles.
hi there. the element i use is 12v 150 watts. they also sell 12v 300 watt and 12v 600 watt ones. some of the 300 watt ones are cool because they are actually two 150 watt elements 'combined into one unit'. each has its own terminals so you can run just one of the elements if you want.
Interesting idea. Have you had any problem with the element melting the plastic on the ice chest? I know you used the 150w element, so it's not as hot as a 300w unit. ....I get that the element has to be submersed.
hi. the element won't melt the plastic. it doesn't get that hot near the connection. (look close at the bubbles that form on the element, none form within an inch or two of the connection) as that area is not heated very much. that plus the water keeps it plenty cool. about the 300 watt elements... they are usually just two 150 watt elements mounted on the same threads (and interlaced) to make one unit. each of the elements is the same temperature as the 150 watt model. it's just a second interlaced 150 watt element. *usually with a second set of screws too (so you can run the 300 watt ones as a 150er if you want.
@@desertsun02, thanks for the quick reply. I wasn't aware that the 300w, 12vdc elements are two 150w units in series. DC elements make sense as a dump load for a small wind turbine or independent water heating source. If they don't impact plastics when submerged, that makes them more valuable.
im looking for an efficient off-grid camper application that runs off 12volts. Add a DC submersible temperature control switch to regulate the temperature and shut off the element when unnecessary and a float switch combined with a normally closed relay with two submersible DC pumps, one in the cooler which is controlled by a switch and another pump in a water holding tank with hose that feeds into the top of the cooler. Line in and line out. The float switch opens the relay which turns off the pump in the water holding tank when the water level gets too high meanwhile the switch for the pump in the cooler allows you to turn on hot water when you need the pressure to use it. The whole thing could be used straight off the batteries in a 12volt solar system. why they do not make a 12volt all in one water heater is beyond me.
Good idea,you have to put the washer and screw on the outside.I did mine,I put a 2 inch hole on the cooler about 3 inch from the inside bottom I used 2 inch circular blade drill.then I use one inch & half by one inch & half sink strainer putting in backward.I also used 4 small washer and four 5/8 electric screw,screw head is kinda round.Cooler usually one inch thick.make sure the rubber washer is on the sink strainer thread on the inside of the cooler.Don't f**k up.
You can just buy the ones with builtin thermostat..Then regulate the temp.... Then use a well insulated bucket with marine pump. Wallah. You got a simple shower for camping. And all it need is a 12 volt 100ah battery and 200 watt solar panel.. Which if you have that to start with. You can take a shower everyday...
hi. that's the beauty of it. you don't need to drill a hole in the container. it's already there. all i did was remove the plug assembly and put in the element. by the way if you don't want to use a container with a plug i have another video that shows this element mounted in a 1 gallon glass jug. it gets the water boiling. here's the link ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-kOmGu8Uz674.html
hi. this is it 🙂 www.amazon.com/Dernord-Immersion-Submersible-Element-Stainless/dp/B0761L2Q8M/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=150w+12v+denord&qid=1613649731&sr=8-1
hi. you could add a thermal shut off switch. set the temp and it cuts off the power at that temp. amazons got em. they're not much either. one for 7.99 or 2 for 10 🙂
@@desertsun02 On doing some research I found some elements have a thermostat which were fairly inexpensive. I can definitely see myself going for this kind of setup.
@@desertsun02 I really like this concept. For the temperature controllers on Amazon, have a couple questions: 1) Are the sensors submersible in water? 2) Do they have the ability to relay the amperage of the heating element (12.5 a, right)? Can you recommend a specific model?
hi there. nope, not at all. if you look close, you can see the element doesn't even get very warm near the connection (the threads). notice how the bubbles only start forming on the element an inch or two out from connection. must be a safety feature they build into them
hi. i get them on amazon. here's the link www.amazon.com/Dernord-Immersion-Submersible-Element-Stainless/dp/B0761L2Q8M/ref=sr_1_2?dchild=1&keywords=12v+dernord+150W+heater&qid=1615220319&sr=8-2
You would need a thermostat inside the ice chest that disconnects the 12v power when it reaches a certain temp and turns it back on when it drops below a certain temp.
hi. it's sold on amazon. (it's a camco 7223 or 07223) here's a link www.amazon.com/Camco-7223-Universal-Adapter-Kit/dp/B000BQMK9C/ref=pd_vtp_h_pd_vtp_h_sccl_5/144-8532558-9425023?pd_rd_w=JbaUg&content-id=amzn1.sym.e16c7d1a-0497-4008-b7be-636e59b1dfaf&pf_rd_p=e16c7d1a-0497-4008-b7be-636e59b1dfaf&pf_rd_r=PDNFSMTE8WC40BSZ9Q03&pd_rd_wg=uxpsT&pd_rd_r=4b6ead85-64ce-4a81-99fe-92a25b4b11bc&pd_rd_i=B000BQMK9C&psc=1
