You are the first Professional master mechanic I've watched that provided visual comparison of what you are doing in swapping the different parts as well as showing the increase of H.P and Torque with the graph. I have clearer understanding of how the stage kits work. An Excellent bit of instruction. Many thanks!
Thank you for the positive feedback mate! Much appreciated! I aim to try and make a clear understanding of what goes on, rather than just show the customer the catalog and take what H-D say as gospel.
Watching your videos from Afghanistan. Headed back home to Texas in a few weeks, will start my 2020 Low Rider S build. As always, thanks for the knowledge, another great video!
Hell yeah!! I bet you're keen as to get into it😎 I'm loving how this bike and engine combo works so far. I am still very keen to get part 3 done because it's going to be SOOOO MENTAL!!!
i know Im randomly asking but does any of you know of a method to get back into an Instagram account..? I stupidly forgot the account password. I appreciate any assistance you can give me!
@Derrick Curtis Thanks for your reply. I found the site on google and Im waiting for the hacking stuff atm. Seems to take quite some time so I will get back to you later with my results.
Man I love your channel! I think the way you put your videos together helps me understand what goes into building your bike. Please keep doing what you doing and can’t wait for part 3. Btw I’ll be buying a low rider here soon!
Awesome news that you'll be buying a Lowrider S 👍 They're such a great bike & you won't regret it. Hands down they are my favorite M8 Softail. Thanks for the great feedback too, I really appreciate it. Part 3 I will get slightly more technical and involved with the compression ratio ect so stay tuned for that when it comes out.
Thanks for sharing your experiences with these engine upgrades. I’m in Mexico and have a 2020 lowrider s, got it last year. And its a lot of fun on the curvy roads here. But now you’ve given me some new goals for it!
@@MasterTechMiller I have done nothing to it yet! It’s got only 3,000 km on it so far. I have a 2016 street bob that I just had upgraded by our dealer here in Guadalajara from 103 to 110 -IV, with SS exhaust, and it changed the bike a lot and doubled the fun factor and now I’m ruined to stock harleys now! So it got me thinking and researching what to do and I’m glad I found your You Tube! I got a 2018 slim too, and a 2016 Fat boy S, so I got a lot of “build” planning to do! I’m usually out to Australia every other year for business, (tequila.) I absolutely love it out there. Hope to get out there next year, when this virus garbage dies down, and rent a harley for some riding! Thanks again for your educational videos! Guillermo.
@@memdog5 sounds like you've definitely got some build planning to do that's for sure! You should definitely consider the 131ci kit from SE, it's such a great platform. Your 103 to 110 build would be perfect now too. I just wish the Twin Cam engine made as much power as the Milwaukee8 engine because it's such a solid engine. If you ever make it back over here & your around Brisbane, you should make the trip to Toowoomba. It's about 1hr 30mins west of Brisbane.
Thanks for watching mate! Glad you enjoyed them. New upload due in the coming days on a 124ci RoadGlide build. Not long after that, part 2 of the 131ci StreeGlide will be done too.
@@moulis05 thats awesome news mate! I would love to build it for you and do a video. If you have any questions about the quote and or the build, just give me a call at the store👍 I'll happily help out anyway I can.
@@MasterTechMiller not sure yet. I’m in the research stage. I know that some are favoring hp over tq and I definitely want the tq and a nice lumpy idle. I currently have the 114 stage one screaming eagle tuner and vance and hines 2 into 1 full exhaust. Any recommendations?
@@coppersv1000 the S&S 475 offers great HP & TQ gains with an awesome sounding ilde. The COMP CAMS 234 produces heaps of torque very early on and up to the mid range before dropping off, it too has an awesome sound at idle. Cyclerama have a CR480 that is a step above the S&S 475. It produces a very big and wide torque curve with plenty of power too. All these cams I have suggested are fine to use with the stock valve springs too.
@@coppersv1000 ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-eoTSrE6ETLo.html here's a link to 1 of my older videos. 124ci Breakout with the 234A comp cam. It shows how much torque it produces early on and has shows what it sounds like too
Great job. Watched both the first & second videos really looking forward to the 3rd episode. Hope you include more build specifics & tuning info. To us here in the states with our EPA the SE-PST would not turn the numbers you did with the stage 4. Links for aftermarket cam specs & build kits etc would be good.
It's still a couple days away sorry Mike, Hang in there though as it's going to be well worth the wait!😎👍 Thanks heaps for the feedback! I'm glad your enjoying the content.
Not normally a big issue with the Harley's. The CKP sensor can't detect the slowing of the crank during the comp stroke when the plugs are out so it NORMALLY doesn't allow the ignition system to give a spark. Sometimes it will give a spark then the bike can actually fire up and run with 2 spark plugs missing from the cylinder heads. Obviously the other 2 plugs keep it running.
Hahaha!!! Just 100psi of shop air. I've deleted all the valving etc to the ram so now it's just a direct fitting to the ram. Works great! Been like that for years and hasn't played up yet.
Hi Tommy, do you keep the OEM compensator or upgrade to something else? Any changes to the clutch? Will you still keep the belt final drive on this bike, or upgrade it to a chain drive?
Harley-Davidson have gone through a super session on the Milwaukee8 Compensator sproket. Since then we have seen a huge decrease in the compensator failure. They were failing even on stock engines. Most of the tough street engines I do are absolutely fine with the new compensator. As always it comes down to rider abuse. Bigger builds like this one will see a Dark Horse Man O War sprocket installed. As for Belts, I can't stress enough as to how how strong they are these days. Yeah sure you'll see lots of people doing chain conversions. Mostly because they are stunting and wanting to change gearing easier. My boss had a 200hp N/A 143ci Road King that became Australia's first 9sec bagger, foot shifted, hand clutch ect. It still ran a belt and had NO PROBLEMS at all keeping up to the demands of the entire series. We eventually went to a chain ONLY because he went with an extended swingarm, and chains are easier to accommodate to the length required easier. In summary mate, if your running something around 140hp & 140ft/lbs on the street just having fun with your mates every now and then,...the stock compensator is fine along with the belt.
@@MasterTechMiller Many thanks for the informative reply Tommy. Your RU-vid content & responses to comments must have generated lots of work for you. As others have said, we all want 'Tommy Miller' to be our local Harley guru! I've got a 2014 twin cam 103, and thinking of going stage 2 (already have the pipes & air cleaner upgrade from the previous owner). I was thinking of getting a S&S 583 cam kit upgrade (just want bottom end torque bias). I'm not sure if the 103 compensator is good to keep or whether I spend more and get the Man-o-war compensator. So far, I've only researched the cam options, so it was a toss up between Wes & Pam's CR570 cams or the S&S 583 (my choice was based on Dyno charts at university.fuelmotousa.com/article/h-d-twin-cam-103-camshaft-shootout). Anyway, we shall see what happens with the finances at my end. It may not get done this year. Next thing I need to do is fit a new set of tyres to the Softail Slim (thinking of Michelin Commander 3). Cheers from sunny Perth.
@@Jonathan-L cheers for the great feedback mate! It's nice to know my content is having a positive impact. If your going up to the stage 2 kit on your Twin Cam I wouldn't be concerned with the stock compensator, it'll hold up just fine. I really like the Wes's Cams they always sound really good & produce great numbers.
What compression ratio is your 128ci at the moment? There are a couple options, but it depends on your current comp ratio and if you're willing to change it, you will see over 150hp & 150ft/lbs
I had the 131 kit done by my local dealer here in the United States. Mine has the S.E tuner and auto tuners with a Vance and Hines Pro-pipe. My question is should I take to a dealer with a dyno and have them tune it or will the auto tuner do all of the work? Also can I expect power levels similar to what you got with the 131 kit?
I would expect you to get very similar HP & TQ however I can't speak for V&H pro pipe as I've never used one & I'm unsure of how it performs. I would assume it would be pretty good though. Also not sure what air filter setup you're using as that will effect it too. As for the auto tune.....it's not bad at all to be honest. It SHOULD be fine as long as they setup the correct target air/fuel ratio table. I reccomend a dyno tune for sure! It helps make sure the set target air/fuel is on point and the auto tune is doing what it's suppose to be doing. Dyno tuning it will also allow for peak HP & TQ being achieved as they will be able to adjust the spark advance to ensure you're getting the most out if it. I was running a max of 32 degrees advance on the base map I tuned up to get 137hp & 139ft/lbs. Hope this helps mate, let me know how you go with it, I'm keen to see how that pipe goes!🍻😎
@@MasterTechMiller thanks for the info sir. Love the way yours sounds with the CR512 cam. I'm going to talk to my dealer and see if they will install it and not effect the warranty.
Im getting my 128 stage iv installed now at my dealer, will have a dyno done etc., have a powervision in it with fullsac and svt's. My question is how much re-tuning did you have to do after 512 install?
Just watching the oil light on the dash. The M8 engine will turn the oil light off when oil pressure is reached when cranked over without the spark plugs installed.
Great video and awesome numbers. Can’t wait to see how more compression adds to those numbers. Are you using the screaming eagle smart tuner or something else? Keep up the great videos👍
Hi mate, thanks for the feed back 👍 I am using the 'Direct Link' tuning key from Maximus (Techno Research). The H-D street tuner is not up to the task to tune a bike like this one. It does not allow for any adjustments on the target AFRs, also it only allows for only 5% adjustment on the VE tables. Direct Link offers FULL adjustability across all parameters.
Loving these they are so informative. Do these crank cases need venting or just leave them alone. I have done the 131 kit now and want to make sure I'm good .
Thanks for these vids. What was the stock compression on the 114" & what is it in this vid ? Probably should wait untill I watch pt3 to ask. Thank you for any replies in advance, if any. PS: How does the stock cranckshaft & bearings hold up to these builds, IYHO?
The stock crankshaft & bearings are fine if you want to daily ride a bike around 140hp & 140ft/lbs. If you want to go beyond that with the stock crank & bearings, you can but I recommend going to one of our trued, plugged & welded crankshafts. Let's be honest, if you want more than 140hp, chances are you don't want to just cruise around gently on it so that's why I suggest the upgraded crankshaft
Is there a way to stop the oil usage on the M8 touring engines? If I ride steady at 70 mph my 128 engine does not use any oil or if I pass slower traffic at up to 85 mph and then slow down to 70 mph. But, if I ride at a steady speed of 75-80 mph for even 40 minutes I have to add a half a quart of Harley synthetic oil. I have a 128-inch Fuel Moto build done by a four-star Harley mechanic that installed the Fueling oil pump, Fueling backing plate, S&S billet lifter cuffs, S&S lifters, Cycle Rama 483 cam, dyno-tuned Power Vision, Ventilator Extreme air filter, Fuel Moto RTX two into one exhaust, Fueling vented, oil dipstick, Trask vented transmission cover, DK Customs head vents into a catch can. Fuel Moto told my Harley mechanic to slowly vary the engine RPMs for twenty minutes at 2,500 RPM and then do the dyno tune. My Fueling oil pump does not have an O-ring on it, but the newest version Fueling Oil pump has an O-ring installed on it. Will the o-ring on the oil pump stop the oil consumption between oil changes?
There is alot to unpack here in this question. Let's start at the start. How many miles are on the engine? Has it always used this much oil since the build? Has any other accessory been added around the time you noticed it using oil?
@@MasterTechMiller ---> I had been using the Harley synthetic 20/50 oil and recently switched to the Harley 360 non-synthetic, straight 60 oil and this stopped my oil usage. My owner's manual says to use non-synthetic 60 weight when the outside temps are 80 degrees or more.
Yes that's right, all based on a softail. In my opinion they are a completely better motorcycle in all aspects. Sure, everyone loves their old Dyna's and how they perform, however this new frame which is much lighter & 30% stiffer makes for a much better riding experience. The Milwaukee8 engine delivers way more HP & TQ much easier & is by far a much better engine. The brakes & suspension are improved from the Dyna aswell.
New to this stuff, but ai have a 2021 Fat Bob that I'll be doing a 131 kit on. I am curious, why go with a different cam if the 131 kit comes with an upgraded one already? Also you mention adding compression, what is that? Sorry for the dumb question.
The cam shaft that comes with the 131ci kit is far too reserved for trying to achieve the maximum potential from the kit. If you watch part 3 of the build series you will understand why adding compression is necessary when installing bigger cam shafts
There are quiet a few to chose from that will beat the S&S 475. The Cycle-Rama CR483 & the CR485. Both are available exclusively from www.alphaperformanceengines.com.au they can ship internationally without any issues. If you have Instagram, head over and check out my profile (link in video description) and you will see first hand just how amazing the 485 is. I am seeing 40hp increases over stock when using this cam with a good air filter and exhaust system
Doing my own build now 131 kit have screaming eagle cam plate and oil pump s&s lifter cuffs CR512 cam TBR turnout pipe do you have a recomendation for clutch and compensator
I would recommend not using a TBR 2-1 go with a D&D Lowcat or D&D Fatcat. You should be using the Billet steel compensator ramp from Cycle-Rama & the Screamin Eagle 1275nm clutch springs.
Hi Tommy, I decided to get the 131 kit on my 2018 114 Heritage , 512 cam ,upgraded clutch and oil pump . It produced 141HP and 156 ft p of torque which was more than expected. Its absolutely superb but the only issue I have is controlling it at steady speeds in 20mph and 30mph zones as it is quite jumpy and not as smooth as before . Is this normal ? am I doing anything wrong or do you think it hasn't been tuned correctly ??
That's awesome to hear your happy with the overall outcome of the build! More than likely the tune could be adjusted at that particular spot in an attempt to smooth it out. Sometimes however, the exhaust system can create a funny spot in the tune where you may experience this. What is the exhaust system you've got?
@@MasterTechMiller thanks for the reply, they are vance and hines ( not sure which) 2 into 2 which was pit on for the stage 1. Ive also only got the original air intake , but will be getting the screaming eagle ventilator extreme put on soon .I prefer the 2 into 2 exhausts what would you recommend ? or do you think another tune would be best first?
@@keith1127 yeah ok, well if you presented the motorcycle to me with that concern I would first take a look at the tune and see if I could tune it out. I'm almost certian that it could be tuned out in your case as the Vance&Hines pipes are very forgiving & relatively easy to tune. My recommendation for a 2-2 exhaust system is either the FREEDOM sharp curve radius, or the FREEDOM radical radius. Both of thos pipes have a small balance pipe between the 2 that helps with flow. They also produce more HP & TQ than the Vance&Hines big radius pipes.
@@MasterTechMiller Thanks Tommy , I will see about another tune and look at those pipes , shame your'e not here in the UK . Love the videos im so glad you inspired me to get the 131 kit with the 512 cam as one of the main reasons was to improve the sound and its awesome ! Will let you know how i get on , thanks for your advice and videos ! cheers Keith
Interested to know how many days it’s taken to get that engine up to this stage? Also if you can give a $$$ price for the kit, parts and ball park figure for labour get an idea of how much it would cost for this project. Personally I think stage 3 would do me.
I will get a more accurate quote/estimate together for you on Monday the 15th February. But to give you a rough idea, to build the kit from a stock 114ci to 131ci with the cyclerama camshaft takes about 12hrs in labour. All that being said a ROUGH idea on total cost from a stock 114ci to this exact setup will be around $8000 Australian dollars. That includes, the engine kit, exhaust system, tuning device, air filter, cyclerama camshaft & labour to build & dyno it. That is a 'ball park' figure. I will get a proper quote together if you like?
@@MasterTechMiller No that’s good enough for me thanks . I was guessing you wouldn’t get much change out of $10 K - maybe more given theAussie dollar exchange rate. Given the bike would be at least $25 K, that’s a pretty decent amount of money to have invested in a bike. Cam makes a big difference.
@@MrAndrew1953 when you look at like this.....we are getting very close to DOUBLING the Horsepower of the engine. No matter the displacement or engine configuration. A small block 350 chev is around 300hp. To double that and get 600hp is going to cost a very similar amount of money. It's all relevant when it comes to building reliable HP gains. Yeah sure, you cam buy blower & turbo kits that will end up being a lot cheaper but the internal components of the engine are almost always left stock and that is a recipe for certian disaster when boost is involved.
No it wouldn't be a waste of time, a little more compression with the high comp 114ci pistons with a good cam would see around the mid 130hp mark with a decent exhaust system.
Mr. Miller Sir, I have a Fatbob S with a S&S 128" kit, stock heads, and S&S 475. That kit is supposed to be 11 to 1 comp, What Cyclerama cam can I get away with using my stock heads?? And would that change away from my S&S 475 cam yield any gains? I feel like my current cam comes on strong but to early and ends to soon in the RPM range. Your thoughts please
So you're after more mid to top end performance? The Cyclerama CR470 would be a good option in that case. It does however benefit from slightly massaged cylinder heads to get the maximum potential from that cam but it will work with the stock heads.
@@MasterTechMiller thanks for your reply. You mentioned the CR-470 in your reply but sent me a link to the CR-483?? How do the two differ? No interest in the CR-512. You are correct in the dip the s&s 475 in the mid 2k range.
@@MasterTechMiller Re-reading my last comment I stated "no interest in the CR-512".....I meant that as a question to you. I watched one of your videos using the 512 and you seemed to like it. My plan is to keep stock heads on my 128. And I must admit I do like the ss-4745 but hate that dip plus the ss475 in my 128" falls off pretty early in the RPM range. S&S 128 kit states 11.0-1 compression. I know they are probably a bit high on that stated compression. So CR470, CR-483, CR-512... fat Bob with 128"..... you say? I like being well over 100 ft lbs at 2000 rpm just want it to also carry out past 5000 rpm.
Awesome informative video again Tommy!! I’m just about to do the screaming eagle 117ci stage 4 kit on my dyna LRS. Would you have any recommendations on a different cam than the 259 that’s in the kit. Like your build there I’m having headwork, rocker lockers and new clutch. Oh have same exhaust so I’ll be gutted if it doesn’t sound so good 😩. Any advice would be well appreciated!! Stay safe mate 🤙🏼
Go with the Screamin Eagle 260 Cams. You'll make more power than the 259. The 260s have a very late closing time on the intake so you need to make sure you get your compression up nice and high to combat that. What heads are you using? The Factory CNC ported ones that come in the kit? If so, you'll want to take 30thou off the heads, use a 30thou MLS Head gasket, and make sure you have a zero deck height on the cylinders.
@@MasterTechMiller Yes using the factory CNC ported ones from the kit. I think Alex who’s doing the headwork was talking about getting at least 10:6.1 compression.
Not particularly. The factory tensioner does a great job these days. It also has a built in detent on the shoe that can relieve the chain when tight spots occur. The aftermarker manual adjusters are set to the tightest point on the chain and that's it. There is not give or relief from those types.
I use the Direct Link USB Key from Technoresearch. They also have another option called Maximus which is exactly the same but it's an actual VCI that you can use to log data and do your own 'Road Tunes'. The direct link USB is approximately $439AUD The Maximus is roughly $750AUD
They definitely sound very tame hey. The cyclerama cam has definitely brought this thing to life!! I can't wait to get the hi comp piston installed! It will be mental then!
hey tommy, Aaron from Sydney Australia does it change if it's a crate 131 to a kit and changing the cam out what would you're options be with air filter exhaust and best tuner for max performance looking at a 2021 road glide
Hey mate. No, the 131 crate motor and the 131 kit are the exact same engine. I highly recommend using the Cyclerama CR512 Cam shaft as in this video. Along with this SE Ventilator air filter. The stock headers on the tourers work great too (as long as the cat has been removed). SE Street cannon slip ons or Rinehart slip (or similar) work great. It will still produce the same numbers as this Lowrider S did as the Stock Tourer header is basically a small 2-1 before it goes to the crossover pipe under the back.
Best option is to email the guys at Cyclerama. Hit up the website (link in description) & click the email button. Wes & Pam are great people and will have all the answers and specs for you mate.
There are a few options. 1st is remove & replace the the crank with OEM crank. 2nd is have the out of spec crank trued up, welded & plugged. 3rd is buying an aftermarket crank such as an S&S or better yet a Dark Horse Crank
It's a SADDLEMAN seat. Model is step up. Colour is Brown. ironandresin.com.au/collections/saddlemen?gclid=CjwKCAjwyIKJBhBPEiwAu7zll2YpJERO0HoJFiqyB5Q2122IG3vVZEwig5-bVQlTQ733XNGRSOP1hRoCc3sQAvD_BwE
This thing sounds heaps better than the 475 Cam at idle and cruise. Don't get me wrong, the 475 still sounds pretty tough, but these cyclerama cams are next level!
Because I check & set the ring end gap it doesn't have to be 'run in' so to speak. I always heat cycle the engines a few times before I dyno tune them. Once on the dyno I always trim up the AFR values before any wode open runs are done. If the kit was simply bolted on without checking or setting any clearances I would definitely recommend a run in period of at least 1000km
Iam puting a Zipper's 128 kit with rs 472 cam ( int 211 dur 472 lift ex 235 and 470 ) .Darkhorse flywheel rebuild (0 to .0001 runout) man o war compensator . Rinehart 2-1 with HD extreme vent AC. 1275 springs in clutch. Flash DynoJet Anything you can add would be greatly appreciated Thank you Wil
Do not put the Rinehart pipe on it that's for sure. Go with a D&D Lowcat or Fatcat. I haven't used thsat cam before so i can't comment on expected numbers but I can say I would like to see a little more duration on the exhaust lobes.
The CR512 requires larger valve springs, however the SE 131ci bolt on kit comes with CNC ported heads that have high lift valve springs already installed. You can't bolt this cam into a 114ci or 117ci without upgrading valve springs
This particular setup is about $8000 from absolutely stock. If you already have a good air filter and decent exhaust along with a tuning device, it will save you thousands. What is your current bike & setup?
@@locklantonkin8679 I'll be looking forward to your call 👌 I have found that running the big throttle bodies can hurt the overall performance. Even on high compression 117 engines I still run the factory 50mm throttlebody. Your bike would have came stock with a 46mm TB. I would be more inclined to put a 50mm TB on it and tune it up. What happend with those big TBs is the the air speed through the intake is far too slow and therefore your port velocity is effected. Running a 50mm TB keeps the air speed nice and high, and provides great low end torque and is still able to supply enough air up the top. I will go into more detail if you decide to give me a call next week👌🍻🇦🇺
Lots of people around here seem to be able to afford it without any hassles. It's definitely an expensive upgrade, but then again Harley Davidson is an expensive brand
