Ralph, Extremely well presented and just in time for my miniature hand-held tachometer project. I will not be able to sleep until I've seen the next ones. This is where you really excel in your 'I can do it so can you' style..... and no mains voltages were used in your demo!
Mains voltages? What, me? Perish the thought! I'm glad you liked this video, I thought you'd retired to warmer climes as you've been so reticent of late! Glad to see you're still there and enjoying the videos. Yes, Part 2 next Friday!!!
I spent hours staring at the rats nests after I did the convert to PCB step for my project. Finally, last night something clicked and viola--I have a PCB with traces. I couldn't have done it without your videos Ralph.
Have to say I really appreciate the work you put into editing. It makes watching the videos pleasing even on a tablet screen. Very few electronics tubers take it into account not everyone is watching on their computer or a TV. Great and very relevant topic for me also, thank you!
You are a great teacher. I really appreciate the information. Please keep up your great work. You have a great talent to reach out and lift up the curious to high levels of learning. Thank you Ralph for your personal touch.
A welcome tutorial. I've never taken the step to make my own boards but I must have a go soon. A lot more professional than my veroboard monstrosities! Easier to trace faults as well!
If you look at my two videos on the ATTiny85 Fuse Resetter (videos #87 and #144 ) in which one has a stripboard construction, the other a custom PCB then you will see what a huge difference it can make. I'll be giving some PCBs away in future videos so viewers can see what a difference it can make, so keep tuned!
Thanks to this tutorial, I finally gave it an effort to design a circuit and a PCB in KiCad, and order it from one of your sponsors. A very rewarding experience :-)
A very rewarding experience, you say Martin. Music to my ears. It makes such a difference to the finished project, always assuming that the schematic was done with care, along with all the correct footprints. Thanks for the feedback, great to hear from you.
Hi Ralph, all that "last century" stripboard (Vero) can be used to make rain sensors, all the copper is there just connect it up!...I used EasyEda for my first intro to PCB making too and its great, compared to the days of Ferric Chloride getting everywhere, and I agree it's nicer to have it running natively on your PC as opposed to the cloud, but I have jumped ship and use Kicad now but all the principles are the same. I would recommend anyone to get stuck in and DIY your boards, first thing I made was 32 pin QFP breakout boards which I still use today...great two parter you have here...cheers.
The copper is there, quite right, Andy, all ready to corrode at a moments notice! At the very least it would need to be tinned. As you saw with that rain sensor! I use KiCAD and EasyEDA; both have their strengths. The 3D viewer is better in KiCAD by a long way, real time updates, components, component outlines... the list goes on! Part two in 1 week.
My first circuit board was the other way around: I made the circuit board because I couldn't be faffed plugging lots of LEDs and resistors into a breadboard to play with shift registers. I made a shield which plugs over a 74x595N shift register on a breadboard - nine pins, eight LEDs, eight resistors. Engraved on a dodgy Banggood CNC engraver but l couldn't get sense out of Kicad so it was done with hand-written one-by-one gcode to mark the pin holes followed by using the jog controls to do the rest by eye. Works, though. Am considering getting a bunch more from Online PCB Fabricator but want to get some more things together to make a useful order.
Very nice tutorial. The best of the ones I've seen. Surprised this did not come up in my general search for an "EasyEDA tutorial" . Maybe there is a problem with your title. I had to actually come to your channel and search for it. Glad I found it. Thanks for sharing!
Glad it helped! And greatly appreciated that you let me know about my rubbish SEO title - so I changed it to add in that exact phrase. And into the video description too, just to be sure.
Ralph, thank you for the nice demo. Since you sponsor these folks it a good idea to go over how to use the tool correctly and with minimal frustration. You mentioned what other folks use for schematic drawing and KiCad had a large group of folks that drawn up components that do not exists. It would be nice to import so one does not have to go through the headache to creating the components that do not exist.
The user community is very active for EasyEDA projects, Don. When you place a specialist component (Shift-F) on the canvass when making a circuit diagram look under the User Contributed list - there is usually something there that meets your needs from Arduino boards to Fusion Reactors and everything in between! There's a lot to trawl through so patience is a virtue. Creating your own component is not difficult but not really beginner material, so we didn't go there in this video.
Good day, Ralph. Since I am on the Mac platform, I had to download the MacOS Bersion of EasyEDA BUT .. Yes, there is a « BUT » ... I am of this old school that teaches that « If something is working great .. DONT FIX IT !! ». and since my version of OS was 10.11.x (El Capitan), I had to upgrade to at least 10.12.x (Sierra).for it to work. Oh well, time for refreshment while this OS downloads .. and even more refreshments until it installs, that I plan on doing tonight, at the end of my shift. I remember having use OrCAD (in my old « MS-Windows » days and this was an excellent program. I did very complex PCBs back then. I just can't wait to use a similar program on the Mac. You concluded this video much too soon, my Friend. I could've watched you for another hour .. but all must have an end somewhere. I'll patiently wait for the next one, then. It'll give me a chance to install the compatible OS and the application by then. I'll box-in my Weather Station in the mean time. Until then, have a great weekend and a very good week. Three hours later ... I got a compatible OS to install and run EasyEDA and duplicated your diagram perfectly. Great program to work with, I must admit. P.S. : How did you get the Arduino NANO part Outline and pin layout?? It's been killing me trying to find that. Hahaha!!
I'm sorry to have caused you so much work, Daniel, but you will insist on using a Mac! Let's face it, I've done you a favour by forcing you to upgrade your OS. In fact, I think you should be _paying me_ for this extra service!!! Ha ha! I'm glad you got it all to work. If you used to use OrCAD (still around, not cheap @ $2,300) then you will have no need for Part 2 except for where the various buttons are to invoke the various functions. There was so much more I could have included but to get someone's "project off the ground" (the byline for this channel) I hope this will be enough. Speak to you again soon, have fun practicing getting the circuit diagram bit nice and smooth. The Nano (and other layouts) are to be found under the User Contributed heading in the component selection in EasyEDA (Shift-F). But, be warned, they are unverified and must be checked by the user to avoid PCB disappointment (that said, I've never found one that wasn't spot on).
Good day again, my Friend. Thank you for the tip on the Arduino outline and all. I've found it and works well. I would like to compare other software (OrCad included, but the version I have works on a PC. I'm not sure a Laptop is powerful enough to run this « monster ». To be followed ... In fact, my MacBook Pro was already upgraded to OS-X 10.12.x (Sierra) and I worked in the kitchen to do my first PCB (my Weather Station's Probe). My wife was gone for almost 2 days and I had to keep watch on the birds, as we lately introduced a newcomer and close watch was preferred until its « full integration » with the flock is complete. Curiously enough, the project failed (not enough layers). It worked with 4 layers, though. I'll write to you in private for the rest. Have a great week, Ralph. Chat with you soon.
MAP/Diagram the inputs and outputs and external controls(switches, pots, LEDs, etc). Mark the polarity. If I may elaborate a few points; keep V+ on the top, Gnd on the bottom, input on the left, output on the right. When doing the layout bear in mind external components (ie pots, switches) and try to keep the wiring clear of the PCB - for example if a pot will be on the left side, try to arrange it so the wiring for the pot is on that side (and not criss-crossing the board). Try to keep the polarity and orientation for components all the same. This may seem OCD but saves a lot of time and trouble when fault-finding and makes the results look more professional
Another good suggestion. Although the component pin assignment/ footprint will know the polarity it can be quite opaque when you're design so this is a very good point. And once I found the footprint was wrong and the circuit would never have worked so double check!
This video comes in the perfect moment as I'm designing my first "serious" project: a (probably over-engineered) MIDI Splitter/Filter box, and I am very lost in the PCB design aspect. Thanks for the awesome video and good advice! I'm looking forward the next episode :)
Over-engineered, Ase? Surely you mean "with added functionality"! Yes, practice making the PCBs before actually committing, and press the refresh on the Design Rules Check (DRC) very often, it catches all sorts of things.
@@RalphBacon haha! "Added functionality" sounds much better, indeed :) Thanks for the DRC tip, I'll do it! I'm already playing with EasyEDA, the component selection list can be a bit overwhelming but I'm sure I'll handle it.
I have done a very simple power supply board that supplies both 5 and 12 volts to Arduino projects. Presently working on a Christmas light project using four shift registers in series with relays many failures with all the pin headers and wrongly placed Dupont wires. Watched a lot of EasyEDA videos without absorbing much, until I watched yours. I really appreciate your style of teaching.
Good, I hope you practice lots with the skills in Part 1 as you will need a whole new set for Part 2 - but everyone can make a reasonable PCB with just a little practice, I'm living proof!
@@RalphBacon Thank you for your reply, I've never made a PCB, but seen the process, and chemicals involved, (home setup) quite a lot of space/work required. Best regards from the Black Country. John.
Placing pots/switches/etc on the PCB (which will used from the front panel) is a great idea as it saves lots of wiring But getting them lined up to match the panel holes can a HUGE PITA. It can help to have the PCB pads fatter and more oblong then usual as this gives some 'wriggle' room to make alignment easier. It is much easier to move a pot a bit on the PCB then making the panel hole wider. It also helps to keep the distance between the pots/switches uniform.
So by mounting the pots into the holes first and then soldering up the pads it would make for a 100% fit, right? So, surface mount pots would work better in that respect, or oblong slots/pads in the PCB for standard through hole mounting to give some wriggle room, as you put it. Very interesting, a great tip Kenn!
Now that's a coincidence i just released a set of videos on just this a couple of days ago too, i shall have to watch yours to see how it's really done :-)
I see you had to split it up in multiple videos too, Colin! There's so much stuff we _could_ cover but at a cost. I'm glad you are promoting EasyEDA too, it's a great tool for smaller PCBs.
There's no reason at all why we cannot produce PCBs to the exact same quality (both electrically and mechanically) and I believe some of mine are good enough to sell (if I were in that sort of business) as part of a kit. Now there's a business opportunity for someone...
Great video to kickstart my pcb experience. Any more detail you can give would be appreciated... sizing traces for current handling... groundplanes... designing to minimize noise... anything would be good. Thanks.
@@RalphBacon I had not watched part 2 when I left this comment. Somehow I had the idea that this was a recent video & part 2 had not been produced yet. I have seen it now. Very helpful. Next step - give it a try. Thanks for all the time & effort you put into producing all your videos. Much appreciated.
Ralph, I really appreciate the time and effort you are putting into this! I'm learning a lot and look forward to graduating from my usual "dead bug" style of circuit construction :D
Hi Ralph, nice videos. I have followed your several videos on the use of EasyEDA (and default choice of component library LCSC). Surely (and especially for the beginner) it would make things easier if there were a selection box for SMT (inc physical size) / throughhole mounting, etc. This would save a lot of time wading through lots of component selections which are clearly not suitable. Most first timers must end up ordering many incorrect components by mistake. The component manufacturers probably love that, though.
Yes. If there is any feedback to be given to JLCPCB/LCSC it is that the component selection process is too clunky and needs simplifying. What I tend to do is go onto the LCSC site, find the component(s) I want (much easier to see what you want) and then use the component number (C99999) in the component picker in EasyEDA. Works well, but could be slicker! I don't think there is any conspiracy by LCSC in trying to get you to buy components that you don't want. They want to delight you so that you come back, not be disgruntled that you chose a whopping great capacitor by mistake!
@@RalphBacon Thanks Ralph for that tip. I'll do exactly that, and see how I get on. I knew there was no conspiracy by LCSC, just threw that into the mix for fun. Keep up the fantastic work. If it weren't for folk like you, electroknickery would rapidly become a 'dead art'.
Hi Ralph, like the approach the only thing I would like to say is when you design your circuit and then build your breadboard to prove the design. Make sure you update the circuit diagram with any additions alterations etc, been there and learnt the hard way cheers.
Oh, me too, Keith, me too. I have learned now to be very careful to keep things in line and constantly press the Import Change to PCB button - just in case. A very good point you make, thanks for raising it here.
If I may add a further point. High frequency, high voltage, and high current layouts need special consideration. If the circuit (or manufacturer's datasheet) provides a PCB layout then USE THAT; don't re-invent the wheel - the reason why a manufacturer has gone to the trouble of providing a PCB layout is that layout is CRITICAL.
Ah yes, slightly beyond beginner territory this tip, Kenn, but so very useful. Sometimes the manufacturer also specifies the requirements for PCB ground planes and the like (or absence thereof) around their component(s) too. As I've said many times, the DataSheet is really good reading (am I strange in really liking them?) and should be relied upon. Thanks for posting yet another great tip, Kenn.
One *very* important thing: get used to having to create your own components (the schematic symbol, the footprint, the linking of the two and all the other stuff that makes up a component). You *will* have at least one part in almost every project that doesn't exist in a library. Do a 5 minute search, if someone else "painted" it. *If you don't find something within 5 minutes, stop wasting time and draw it yourself.* For example: you have a small adjustable buck converter module you want to integrate instead of designing your own. The schematic symbol is very simple, and for the footprint get out your calipers, measure sizes and draw it up. If you have done that a few times it will take less than 10 minutes.
I agree this is required eventually but not quite at this beginner stage. I've had to do this now many times and the footprint can be added into the shared repository so others can find it too, thus stopping everyone reinventing the wheel! I might cover this aspect in a future video, thanks for the nudge.
Glad you thought so, Mike, thousands obviously did not, looking at my viewing figures this morning 😞 Oh well, perhaps Part 2 will perk things up a bit next week!
@@RalphBacon may be it will perform on the long run :-) ... we makers are a small community not only on YT. So it's a big gift for the community doing such videos - may tanx for your work abd doing so !!!
EasyEda is really nice. I sometimes used KiCad, but with EasyEda I'm usually way faster (selecting the part and foot print at the same step for example)
Strip, vero or prototype boards are ok for development of a circuit design before going to manufacturing a PCB but with the low cost from JLCPCB it is sometimes becomes cost effective as well as learning to use the development tools.
SMD doesn't change anything you do in this video, Brian - except for selecting an SMD components instead of a through hole component. So lessons learned here will serve you well.
Ralph, thank you for this tutorial. My first board, I had the silk screen of diodes backwards, and the resistors were too short, but the board functions as designed. I do wish that they were more descriptive of their parts so size errors are minimized.
Excellent! For a first time try that is a success. Regarding component size, there is a "standard" way of describing them in the footprint. So, a resistor with a footprint of (for example) "RES-TH_BD2.3-L3.7-P7.70-D0.9" means Resistor, Through Hole, Diameter 2.3mm, Length 3.7mm, Pin (lead) centres 7.70mm apart with pin leads diameter 0.9mm. If the parts are from LCSC or other major brand then these measurements can be relied on; if the component is a User Contributed component then you cannot rely on it and must measure all pin measurements. I will be mentioning this in a future video as I nearly got caught myself recently with a User Contributed part with incorrect pin spacing.
Honestly I've had it with trying to solder my own strip boards. It takes me so long and the result is so dissapointing looks and durability. some through hole assembly not a problem though. I've just finished one that took about 5 hours in total to fiddle my way through i'm not doing it anymore lol this has got to be the way forward :) thanks for the clear informative tutorial.
Without doubt, soldering gets better with practice, and there are many practise kits out there for both through-hole and SMD components. Nobody who sat down at a piano for the first time could play Mozart - it takes practice and dedication to get good (or, at least, passable) at _anything_ don't you think? Go on, keep practicing, watch some RU-vid videos on how to improve and do keep designing your own boards (that you can then get assembled for you!).
@@RalphBacon yes practice is the key of course but I feel like I've had enough of struggling to run little bits of wire around the back of a board. Just need to get a bit better with easy eda and I'm converting 🙂
Oh yes! I always include a 100nF capacitor physically very close to the actual VCC/GND pins of each chip. Makes a huge difference to the stability of the circuit. Nice one, Kenn, you obviously know about this stuff.
Hi Ralph, Thanks for yet another excellent and inspiring video! I have a couple of beginners questions about wires and solder connections for these: I'm making a sensor unit which takes +5V as an input and delivers an analog signal. For these I know that my PCB will eventually need 3 through-hole solder connections for 3 wires that connects it to a microcontroller: VCC(+5V), GND, and "Sensor Out". 1) Do I model these wire connections in my schematic? They are not components on my (abstract) design schematic, but just holes on my actual PCB. So where do I best add them in my design process - at the schematic level or the PCB level. 2) When I do my PCB design after the schematic design, what "component" do I choose? A through-hole solder connection for a wire isn't a component, so what do I pick? I've tried (in KiCad) to add it as a single pin header, but then KiCad tells me I have no footprint for that component, and I don't want to design or download a footprint for a component that I'm not going to use anyway; I just want to add this stupid little hole to solder my wires into. I can't be the first one to add a wire connection to my design - what's best practice here, what are others doing?
I see my entire post, even if I watch it with an Incognito browser window from another device, so I think it's there, and it's maybe your client that truncates it?
But here goes: "that connects it to a microcontroller: VCC(+5V), GND, and "Sensor Out". 1) Do I model these wire connections in my schematic? They are not components on my (abstract) design schematic, but just holes on my actual PCB. So where do I best add them in my design process - at the schematic level or the PCB level." ... continues...
... continued... "2) When I do my PCB design after the schematic design, what "component" do I choose? A through-hole solder connection for a wire isn't a component, so what do I pick? I've tried (in KiCad) to add it as a single pin header, but then KiCad tells me I have no footprint for that component, and I don't want to design or download a footprint for a component that I'm not going to use anyway; I just want to add this stupid little hole to solder my wires into. I can't be the first one to add a wire connection to my design - what's best practice here, what are others doing?"
Do you know, I often thought about sun tracking, so that I can point my solar cell at the sun better. Hmm, I'll add this to the list and see what happens. Thanks for the suggestion.
Absolutely. This cannot be understated. Sounds like you've been there, done it the hard way, and now know the rules, Kenn! Thanks for posting, nice to hear from you.
Nice :) I am waiting for two things from you: The next part of this movie and what interests me the most ... A new era and adventures after exercises with a book from STM32 beginning of Warrgen Gay. All in all, I bought this book after your recommendation :) How is the acquisition of knowledge going?
STM32 programming (bare metal) is certainly quite involved. I'm surprised more people haven't wrapped some of the calls into a simple library. But it is so very powerful, albeit quite slow going now. Yes, Part 2 on PCB design (loosely worded) next week! Stay tuned!
Excellent video, this has helped me a lot. Designed my PCB just fine, but unfortunately I cannot complete the transaction. PayPal nor direct VISA goes through. Called VISA and they are saying there is a block on doing business with them. Very curious indeed.... pursuing it!
@RalphBacon I was trying to order from JLCPCB. Since that failed, I ordered from OSH Park in the US, but at 5x the cost. For some reason VISA here (Trinidad and Tobago) will not allow PayPal to complete any Chinese transactions...... very weird indeed! Your video was the turning point for me creating professional qualityPCBs........ Thank you so much.
Glad to hear you finally got your (expensive) PCBs. Try other methods of paying, I think some offer direct bank transfer, not so safe but worth one try at least?
Great video as always Ralph. I have made a few PCBs using EasyEDA and find it very good indeed. I have one question though..... How do you add items to your own library? I would like to have my most common used parts in one place to avoid having to search for them every time I want to use a certain frequently used part (Like a 555 chip, 1/4 watt resistor, 10uF Electrolytic Cap, Header Pins Etc..). Hopefully you can help out with this question, but no worries if it is not possible. Have a great weekend, Joe
If I didn't show how you can make your own copies (and amendments) to items in the library then it is in the next part, Joe - let me know if you still don't see it next week.
Nope, I have just designed a hybrid board using _both_ types of components and am coming to the conclusion that SMD are easier to design for and construct (if 0805 with my eyes). This video deals with TH components just for beginners who are not yet ready for SMD - but it will come!
Well, again, the Universal Timer board is partially SMT (although constructed by JLCPCB) and the remaining components are, by their nature, mostly through-hole. And there is a twist in the design too - but more of that in a future video. Keep tuned, nice to hear from you.
@@RalphBacon I guess you need to be in my head to see the fun - sorry about that. I will stay tuned for the next video and the next.... I made the same mistake, im sure many had done the same when making pcb from memory, so easy to get side tracked.
I wonder if it's possible to make a pcb for a chess-computer and stay within reasonable price range. I'm looking at boards like Certabo makes. They use RFID instead of reed-switches or hall effect sensors. Every piece has tag but even at looking at the pcb I can't make out whats under every square. Making a PCB even with reed-switches and magnets would be pretty cool. It would be a pretty big pcb.
@@RalphBacon They do and making it using RFID would be a bit too complex and expensive. I ordered all the parts for a Reed switch type of board. I'm planning to make it first just using hotglue and after I have it working I thought of designing the PCB so it's in 2 or 4 parts that are the same with some way to connect them together.. Under a square is just holes for the switch, diode and 3mm LEDs in each corner of s square. Those should be simple. Then RP3 for the chess engine. Arduino + led matrix driver and some screen. Still waiting for the parts but in the meanwhile I've been designing the chess figures in Fusion 360 with a 10mm magnet slot on the bottom. Got some wood filament for my 3d printer to print them all :)
Yes, that does happen to me now and again, Joseph. Delete the wire and do it again in one easy motion so it doesn't think you are trying to join two wires. Alternatively, use Net markers (those chunky arrow boxes) which cuts down clutter and makes it more meaningful too!
No two components are exactly the same and if you use different parts on the PCB the results can be a bit different - especially when using wide tolerance parts like elect. capacitors (in timing/delay/filter circuits). It can be worth leaving space for parts in // or series for fine-tuning (OR installing or allowing for a trimmer) Also there can be times when measuring current is needed but would be hard or messy; put in a jumper so that you can easily cut it / measure current / re-solder.
You really have got experience in this field, it shows in all these practical considerations, I'm in awe! And I'll add that for the Arduino type µControllers, always include an ICSP programming block and possibly also the TX/RX serial interface to which you can connect a programmer / USB-to-Serial device respectively. I forgot on one of my recent projects and I am now inconvenienced by that. I'll not forget again, that's for sure. Thanks Kenn, your tips are so spot on, and only learned by serious hands-on experience. What is it they say? You can't teach experience!
If you are *not* having it assembled (SMT components only) then your BOM will be for the total amount of items (eg 20 resistors even though you only need 1 for the circuit) so yes, you get it all. You can build up some good stocks this way if you are particular on how you store the components when you get them (ie not all jumbled up in a big box). If you *are* having it SMT assembled you only pay for what they actually use, because the components are on reels attached to pick and place machines. So if you only need 1, you only get 1 placed and charged accordingly. You won't be submitting a BOM for this service it's done behind the scenes, mostly.
At the time, the Pro version wasn't available. I've tried it but I'm not convinced it's ready for use quite yet. I still use the Std version and download the project locally as a backup.
Another option that beginners may want to try, is to build a working simulation circuit in www.tinkercad.com and export the project to an Eagle Cad file. Open EasyEDA and import / open the Eagle Cad file you just exported from tinkercad. @ least you know you have a working circuit this way ... TinkerCad only has a limited number of components, but will probably ensure a working PCB.
A good suggestion, Gary. There are several circuit simulators out there that might work well in this situation. I don't think I'd commit to any design without building it first on breadboard, though.
@@RalphBacon True !! The real world always brings up the unknown murphy factor !! Have found simulators can speed up the initial design phase .. good addition to the toolbox.
Ha Ha! And closer to the truth than you might think. I've seen _several_ production PCBs with wire links (that is, flexible connection wire) that were obviously corrections - but cheaper to do that than create a whole new board.
Excellent, thank you. I’m itching to do a pcb but I’ve not got a project worthy, just yet. Almost. When designing the schematic, can you insert an arduino etc or does that have to be drawn by the user?
There are plenty of Arduino type boards (and ATMega328P chips if you want to go native) in the User Contributed list in the components selection pop-up, Chris. Just double check the labelling and so forth. As I said in my video, you don't _need_ a worthy project at this stage. Just do some nonsense project (like a rain detector) to get used to the controls etc. Then, when a worth project comes up you will ready to go!
Thanks for the video Ralph. Do you find that sometimes ordering from LCSC ends up making the project more expensive because of the shipping costs (I’m in the UK). I usually find that ordering from Ali Express is cheaper though more time consuming and prone to errors.
Indeed, Marcos, it's the shipping that can be the killer. Free shipping from AliExpress / Banggood / Gearbest and others can make it very attractive. The only caveat I would have is that you then need to order your components _before_ making the PCB so that the footprints are accurate. The database in LCSC has all the components with footprints ready for use, which is why I like the entire system so much. Beginners have enough to worry about without finding out their switch won't fit because they miscalculated the pin spacing (been there, done that).
I have a box I purchased which has a 12 pb keypad, I want to take out the original pcb and create my own, repurposing the small enclosure. Is there a way to place pads on the board by using x y measurements so I can place the pushbuttons in the same location as the original board?
Are you asking (sorry for being a bit dumb, Victor) here, whether you can place pads on a PCB for your own SMD keys using a custom footprint? In fact, after re-reading your comment a few times that is exactly what you are asking. You need to create a *custom footprint* in EasyEDA with your measurements for the key(s). I would create a footprint for a single key then place them very accurately on a PCB, with the correct spacing apart. Got EasyEDA, File, New, Footprint. Create the required footprint with the pads (and any mounting holes) very, very accurately. I say this because although you might get away with not being 100% accurate for a single key, if you are going to be mounting a few of these in a matrix/keypad manner then the errors will start building up! When creating a footprint I normally use the document layer, initially, then when I'm happy change the various bits to top layer and top silkscreen so you can see where each key goes.
Ughh! Tell me about it! And there is a huge difference between 6.5mm and 5mm believe me. Sometimes you can get away with it, but mostly it becomes a huge PITA. So, once again Kenn has highlighted a very important check that we all need to make.
I've decided to burn the bootloader onto the 328 before I add it to my PCB and to use the serial RX/TX and and FTDI adapter to program the 328 once it's on the PCB. Do I need to put a capacitor between the DTR on the header and the RESET pin on the 328? I read somewhere the the capacitor is built in to the FTDI adapter and not needed in my circuit?
Why are you using this method then, if you're not using USB, Dirk? The bootloader is ONLY really useful for USB sketch uploading. You'd be much better off putting in an ICSP pin socket (basically connections to MOSI/MISO/SCK/RST plus power). It's what I _always_ do now, as I forgot on Benny's PIR detector and have to connect to each pin manually, what a PITA. If you _really_ want to use the Serial programming method, the single advantage that I can think of is that you can read (and send) serial data to the chip (eg read Serial.print statements). However, I just use the TX pin plus GND to achieve this using an FTDI programmer if/when I need it. I always include a 100nF capacitor as part of the pin headers for the serial programming, so I don't think the FTDI would work without that present. Can you try it out on the breadboard before committing?
@@RalphBacon Turns out I didn't yet have a full understanding of the difference between ICSP and FTDI. Re-watching your last video helped clear things up. I'm modifying the circuit removing the serial connection and adding the ICSP back in. Using your bangood links, I ordered the AVR ICSP + 6 pin adapter.
Hey Ralph I'll realy like youre vid...but I think you forget some steps. if you download EasyEDA you must leave youre credentials if not you cannot save anything. Right know I'll having that problem... in de vid you're registered see right upper corner op youre EDA programm. Also I cannot find parts because there is, I guess, A server problem on the EDA side. or, I guess again, its because I'm not registerd. yet. So I want to register and want to proceed with my google account and than a windows opens from EDA to give my google e-mail and password....hmmmm. Well...I'm not registerd yet.....but hey great vid...tnx
I must have registered, Mark, as everything is held in the cloud (as well as backups locally, of course) but is that an issue? I'm not sure about the LCSC.com parts servers, I've never had an issue with them and I have used them a LOT! Try and register with a different Google account, or just use a throwaway email address.
Sir thank you for your video it just did not get to what I need. I need a video that show a pcb board populated with components; Ho do you populate them in a schematic. You went into too much explanation. not needed
There are two distinct phases to designing a PCB, John: first the schematic with the correctly chosen components. Then the PCB which will show those components (in 3D mode in EasyEDA). But the PCB must always come after the schematic is complete. You can still see the components in 3D (small picture) as you choose them from the list; that's the tricky part to get correct.
@@RalphBacon Thank you for responding. OK, so then without the indepth explanation of components and how they work, please design a down and dirty video on how to make a schematic, for instance; this component goes because is part of the input and conditions the power, thus component goes her cause we want electrons to go this way, this ic chip is here to give a control to the step down voltage you want to trigger the output or next item I. Line with said ckt. That is what I need. I can look at schematics and know all the functions. I can look at a pcb and understand why the might be there I just can't bridge the gap. I'm expecting the schematic to resemble the pcb and it doesn't. I need to bridge that gap.
@25:16 Don't you think it's a bit disingenuous to claim that you are recommending them for "no other reason" than that you use them? This is clearly a lie. They sponsor you. They PAY YOU to recommend them. And to claim otherwise is plain dishonest. Sure, that may not be the only reason, but it's certainly *one* of the reasons. Also, FYI, I have been using JLC for over a year and find that - whilst they admittedly *are* the cheapest - their business practices stink. They change their rules without warning, interpret them differently from one day to the next, and in one case tried to charge me EXTRA for orders placed (and paid for) months ago, and which they had ALREADY SHIPPED and I had ALREADY RECEIVED. The day I find another fabricator with similar pricing, I'm gone.
Nope. LCSC sponsored this video, not JLCPCB, as this was primarily about component selection as part of the schematic design. If I didn't think LCSC was a company I would use anyway then I would not want them to sponsor me either. So, yes, they _do_ sometimes sponsor me, but they sponsor me regardless of whether I promote their services apart from a short ad placement at the beginning of my video, which may have very little to do with the content. _This_ video (and the next) is about circuit & PCB design for beginners, and the fact you can get the components from LCSC and use that information whilst designing the schematic (pre-PCB) is good enough for me to state what I did. I'd recommend them even without being paid, as I do for many other products I demo. Now, I don't know whether they are necessarily the cheapest but that is almost irrelevant anyway; price is no guide to quality. The shipping method will always have a huge bearing on the overall costs, regardless of who you go with. It's a shame you think I'm just a puppet promoting a company because I get sponsorship. That's not the way I work at all. And I'm sorry you seem to have had bad experiences of JLCPCB, though, that has made you understandably a little negative towards them. I'd probably be the same, it's human nature. Oh dear, Part 2 _is_ (hopefully) being sponsored by JCLPCB as that is all about PCBs. Sigh. I don't know how else to convince you. Well, watch Part 2 and decide for yourself.
Ralph S Bacon I didn't say you were a puppet. I merely said you had more than one reason to recommend them, contrary to your claim. Also, you were talking about all three services, so the LCSC advert was relevant to my comment. In addition, your other videos are sponsored by JLC, so it remains a factor. Put it this way. If you came out and said that JLC (or one of the other two) sucked and had terrible ethics or whatever, would they continue to give you money? Somehow I doubt it. Therefore you are obligated to be positive about them, and therefore you have two reasons to recommend them, not one. It's not about being a puppet. It was simply that you claimed you had only ONE reason to speak highly of these companies, when in reality you have two reasons. When someone is a paid shill for a company, their claimed opinion of said company - no matter how honest or legitimate - is entirely irrelevant. By accepting money from them, you have waived the right to have your stated opinions of them taken seriously. I mean no offence, and your content is good. You just need to realise that your opinions and recommendations will only be trusted when you're not paid to be a mouthpiece. And also that you should avoid saying things like "I only recommend them because...".
Pepsi employees are banned from drinking Coca Cola. It's a firing offence. No matter how much they loved the taste of Pepsi, if they claimed they were "only drinking it because they loved it", nobody would believe them.
OK, I understand what you're saying. And if were not to endorse their products in a positive manner that would indeed be the end of my sponsorship in the same way as if Katy Perry said she no longer liked the smell of Indi by Coty which she endorses (or has done) they would 'part company'. But, I'm under no contract, so if I found I could no longer endorse a company, whether it was JLC, LCSC or others then I truly could not continue taking their sponsorship money. There are plenty of other manufacturers out there wanting exposure via sponsorship deals that I have to turn down. Gosh! I'm in such demand! Well, my RU-vid channel is. Unfortunately there is no way to prove my ethics as sponsorship will always be seen in the same way as you nicely highlight the Pepsi/Coke position. In this case I just really like these three services (although you may notice I have another, quality but competing PCB sponsor, now and again). Independent, that's what I am! But as I said, I could just take the sponsorship money, run the promo ad at the beginning of my video and never mention them again. Like a TV channel. But I guess I like these companies because they provide something that I would probably use and buy anyway. Thanks for clarifying and I'm glad you still like my content, which is what it's about, really. I'll try and modify my language on the sponsor service etc next time, as I don't want to come across as a Pepsi employee!
Sounds good. Thank you for being understanding about it. Incidentally, could I suggest a topic for a future video? I've had trouble measuring small currents (0.1mA to 100mA, such as the usage of an LED with a large resistor). I've tried using the internal ADC of a microcontroller (ATtiny85 and PIC16F1503), as well as dedicated I²C chips (INA219 and LMP8640), and tend to get measurements that bounce all over the place. I'm using a decoupling cap and doing everything else that I should, as far as I know. Perhaps you could make a video showing how to capture reliable measurements in that range?
