Thank you for stating that there's no polarity on the two wire connector! I broke the wires and had no way to determine such, even after viewing many videos.. A couple of your words saved my day! Thanks again!
THANK YOU! I've been searching for a way to bench test some PTO clutches giving some of my customers problems. I knew you could do it, but I wasn't sure on Polarity. Your video is straight to the point, and it's brief. That's the key to a great How To video. Thanks again.
I run a small engine repair shop. I've purchased several of these Extreme clutches. The quality is higher than OEM. You can tell just by holding it in your hands and inspecting it.
Thanks for the review on their clutches. In the video he says the resistance should be 3.4 on that clutch ...so what might in read if it's bad. More or less resistance and how much more or less?
What does it indicate when the clutch works for about 10 minutes,gets hot and then cuts out? The resistance on it is about 1.5 measured with a basic meter like to small one in the video. After a few minutes of cooling down ,the clutch will work again. I jumped out the switch so that has nothing to do with it.
Heat affects resistance. I believe it's lowering it to where it's not going to engage. I think the proper number should be about 2.5 ohms. Some clutches are adjustable for air gap, try tightening the three outside bolts (if it's adjustable) a 1/4 turn each to see if it improves. Otherwise the clutch may need replacement.
My clutch passed the "bench test" when power comes form external battery (manual start mower) and checks 4.3 ohms with two-wire tester. But it will not power up from the 12v system of the mower-making close to 14v at full rpm. Ordering an Xtreme clutch but fear I may yet have wiring issues on the mower. Anyone seen this situation?
@@parkerbirch1475 I had a false reading. I wasn't getting full raw AC voltage on the mower because the magnets had come loose. I wound up fixing with a used flywheel, with magnets--for the same price as buying all new magnets. Clutch never was the problem, only voltage. It's a recoil-start mower so there is no battery voltage.
I disagree that just doing a bench test by applying 12-volt DC to the connector will confirm that the PTO clutch is good. I recently changed the PTO clutch on a John Deere F911. The clutch would engage and hold perfectly fine in operation, but after about 20 minutes of running it would damage one of the interlock switches in the circuit rendering that switch inoperative. We replaced that switch twice thinking it just was a bad switch. After the second failure tested the resistance on the clutch windings. Measurement was 1.4 ohms, replacement OEM clutch from another machine measured 3.4. That results in the clutch drawing more than twice the amperage then as you supposed to. That larger current flow through the safety interlock switch exceeded its rating and destroyed. Replaced the clutch what's a good used one from another machine we had, replaced the interlock switch again and it has been operating without problems since.
@@mattminauro453 most likely it is the windings in the field coil of the clutch that are starting to short out, as was the case with ours. Get a digital multimeter, unhook the connector to the wiring harness that is close to the clutch, test from one terminal to the other on the clutch with the digital multimeter set to ohms (20 to 100, whatever is the lowest ohm value on the meter you have). It should read somewhere around 3.4 ohms. If it is less than 2 ohms The windings are beginning to short and it will be drawing much higher current than it is supposed to. That could cause the fuse to blow or it could damage the safety switch as it did in our case. If the windings do test good then the next most likely problem would be you have a wire in the wiring harness going to the PTO clutch that has a bare spot in the insulation and is touching the metal frame of the mower. Again, this situation would cause high current flow.
