GREAT video Ken! We watched this video and once you told us about how it didn't have a fuel pump, we were like WOW! I have learned so much from this video, and have some questions: 1. Why did they stop using the system where there were actual wires instead of ignition wires they have now, that old style would last forever. 2. Could we make ignition wires like that for cars today? 3. That cam gear, is it made of the same material as the cam gear they use on the Ford 4.9 today, well back in 1995 when I did one on my van? That braking system was so cool, MAN it had to be kind of fun working on that! REALLY GREAT VIDEO!
Astral Auto Repairs Other Two videos will be out tomorrow and Monday. I forgot I worked on a 1923 T bucket before. But that had a small block Chevy in it. So I guess it doesn't count as being very old.
Nice videos, Ken. In about 1968-1969 a buddy and I were partners in a 1931 Model A Fordor sedan. The one you are working on has lots of modifications, obviously a driver, not a show car. Ours was also a driver, but was still totally stock. They originally had a 6V generator. Pretty good car, reliable. People added hidden electrical switches and/or fuel shutoffs so they were not so easily stolen. The spark advance lever was not optional and had to be in the correct position when hand cranking them...
You can put the oil pump on with engine right side up. In your case. Remove that oil pressure gauge. Originally there was a small pipe plug in that hole. Screw a fine thread bolt in. But don't tighten it more than finger tight. Just your fingers. That will hold the oil pump on while you put the oil pan on. In your case. While you remove the oil pan to replace the rear main cap oil drain pipe. Your car is 1931. Because there is an indent in the fire wall for the fuel filter. But your radiator shell is 1930.
That rear main cap oil drain pipe needs to be longer. And bent to follow the oil pan. The end of the pipe has be to below the oil surface in the pan. Because all engines have some blow by pressure. That pipe keeps blow by pressure from pushing oil mist out the rear main. That oil mist will get in your clutch disk. Then drip on the floor. I own a 1930 Model A Ford rumble seat coupe like yours. I traded a motor scooter for it in 1964. That was while I was stationed at Vandenberg Air Force Base California. It was my everyday driver. I put my friends and the surfboards on the roof. Two guys in the rumble seat. And us two inside. We went shirtless to the beach. We were all less then 20 years old. That Ford always made a hit at beach partys. The three guys were better surfers than me. My Air Force enlistment was over in 1966. I towed the Ford to Akron Ohio using Route 66. I still have the Model A Ford after diving it for 56 years. I put my surfboard on the roof for car shows. I put on new tires and a muffler in 1964. The tires look almost new. But my muffler went bad last summer. That Ford is so dependable. I drove it from Akron Ohio to Boston Mass. To visit an Air Force buddy and to check the beaches. I didn't see any good surfing beaches. :-( I only had one car problem. My starter bendix spring broke. I looked in my copy of Hemmings. I found a Model A and T Ford parts dealer a few blocks of were I was staying. I hand cranked the Ford and went to see him. He was so happy to see my Ohio plate. I showed him my California plate behind the Ohio plate. He pulled my starter and replaced the spring free. He took pictures of me and the Ford with my surfboard. I'm 78 years old now. My surfboard is a custom made 10 foot Larson. It and the Ford are antiques and so am I now. I like driving around in the car shows with a father and his kids in the rumble seat. It's lots of fun. :-)
I hope you marked the flywheel and pressure plate before you took the pressure plate off. You have to put it back on in same spot. Because Ford balanced them together. It will cause LOTS of vibration if not in the same spot. It will damage the rear main. :-(
I thought the rear main seals on those were actual rope that you hand laid in there. I could be wrong, but I vaguely recall this. Very neat to see all this old engineering.
sixtyfiveford On the front seal its like rope. But the rear has no seal at all. When I saw what came out of the rear I thought something should go back in there. When I looked it up it said nothing goes in the rear main.. Also none of these companies sell anything for the rear main.
I doubt you will ever see this. Having the engine removed and upside down is not the only way to replace the oil pan so the oil filter stays in place. There is a small hole with 1/8 pipe thread on the passenger side of the engine that should have a plug in it. Remove the plug, and put in a retainer screw to hold the oil filter in place. Then pull the pan with the engine still in the car, the oil pump stays in place.
sbbliss I know all about that. I just told someone else about that hole. A 3/8-24 bolt will screw in there and hold the oil pump. You just tighten it down just enough to hold it. Or you can make something with 1/8 pipe threads on it to do that.
I have restored a ford model A 1930 and I rebuild the engine but it has an oil leak. In minute 8 you talk about a piece that holds crankshaft, I don't know if it needs to be sealed or what advice could you give me because it drops a lot of oil. I am looking for any seal that could help.
should I put a gasket? because it drops a huge amount of oil. In the video i I can't see if you change the gasket. By the way congrats, it's an amazing video. thank you
