Step #1: Find your local Model A club. Call and ask if they have an annual "start-up party." #2: If so, have the car transported there. #3: Stand there, eat barbecue and watch while those friendly old-timers swarm over your car and get it running in about a half an hour.
I used that Stewart Warner SouthWind heater in my Model A while using it as a daily driver in Minnesota: it burns gasoline from a "T" in the gas line: the heater has its own carburetor that vaporizes the fuel and injects it into a combustion chamber inside the heater using the vacuum from the intake manifold. So there you go, driving along with a little fire blazing away right under the gas tank. A thermocouple turns on the electric fan when the temperature reaches a set level: the fan operates at two speeds, neither one strong enough to actually get much (any) heat across the car to the driver. Going uphill the vacuum drops enough, the vaporization quits, and a small explosion is heard as you go over the top of the hill! Now in California, I reinstalled the heater for a conversation piece but didn't connect the gas line!
I sure hope you restore that car. She is beautiful. Please do not hot rod it. She is too complete and valuable to be cut it up or modified. Read about the car and don't let anyone convince you to modernize it. I have two of them and got the them in about the same condition. They are fantastic machines. Have fun.
These are the kinds of beautiful classics that morons usually trash by hot rodding or rat rodding them. Better to see them crushed than to suffer that fate since they are basically destroyed anyway!
Viewers who think this car is rough - haven't seen many non-restored Model A's, and have little understanding of what eight decades does to a car, whether it's kept inside or not. There are better kept examples of course, but this is a decent original car. It's too nice to make a hot rod out of, IMHO. Part #1 has a fancy name: drip pan. They go on each side of the engine, with the lower end of the valley towards the rear, they simply funnel the oil and other fluids that have leaked out, towards the bottom and rear of the car, away from the engine. #6 is both the engine crank and the tire tool. The wheels: These are regular Model A wheels. Compare them to those on the car. 1928 and 1929 used a 21 inch wheel. 1930 and 1931 use 19" wheels. They look similar, just look at the tire sizes on the wheels on the car, and compare. (side note, for the most part, model Ts used wood spoke wheels on all but the last year or two). Remove the front wheel from the car, bolt each wheel on, and set a block of wood so that it almost touches the rim. Slowly turn the wheel looking at the gap between the block of wood and the rim, to see which are the straightest, least bent wheels to use. The accessory heater is a good find, very ebayable, and was probably not used on that car to begin with, as well as most of the other parts shown here are not Model A either. The vintage soldering irons should bring 25 bucks or so on ebay. #10 is a mostly complete set of brake rods for the model A. One for each wheel, two more for the rear parking brake, and the shorter ones run from the pedals to the pivot shafts. #13 is that shaft, as someone responded earlier. One of the parts shown at #21 appears to be one of the U-brackets that holds this shaft to the frame. The Stewart Warner part appears to be some sort of 1940s vintage A/C unit, at least the evaporator part of it, and is probably valuable, as rare as A/C was in those days. The pistons appear to be Model A vintage. The big spark plugs appear to be Model A also, and the correct ones are expensive to buy new, about $30 each! The car. My two cents is don't restore it. Spend plenty of time and money getting it mechanically good, and just drive and enjoy it cosmetically the way it is. I'm in the process of doing a frame-off restore on a 1930 Tudor that was in similar condition to this car, and I almost wish I hadn't started. Although "everything" was wrong with it, I never had any intention of owning a trailer queen. You can buy a restored Model A far cheaper than you can restore a Model A, and oh yeah, you don't have to do all the work! Unless it's a labor of love and you want to...
I too echo the sentiments of the gentleman below. My wife's dear father game me a 30 Coupe some years ago...which is in very good condition NO rust to speak off...Not as original and not as complete as the one you have here...But I'm getting real interested in getting on to some serious work on it. I have number of Model A Fords including 5 28 /29 roadsters...and 4 30/31. What a great enjoyment working and owning the Model A Ford.
clearly the car has been converted to hydraulic brakes the pedal assy and the cross brace as well as the long metal rods are parts of the original mechanical brakes.the first heater shown is the one for the car.and those are extra wheels for it too.
#2 appears to be starter shim gaskets. Door handles with locks are passenger side. Model A did not have driver side key locking handles originally. Henry wanted you to lock the drivers door from inside then exit the curb side and lock the handle. #10 does appear to be brake rods. At 11:10 it looks like the piece that fits around the Emergency brake and angles up the firewall. I would have to look at mine to check but from memory that looks like it. At 17:05 looks like a bumper bracket. Same for 17:20.
That's soldering iron and other tool are four melting lead and moulding back in the day also the collapsible rod is for Jack keep the soldering iron change the wire great tool for repairing fuel tanks that have little leaks that can be repaired
Brings back many fond memories. I had a 38ford Pickup in high school, which ran fine, but was not restored. I nobbled around the edges for 4 yrs restoring what I thought I could. This is such a great looking car with possibilities, but where to begin????? Its so easy to take apart, but so difficult to keep the interest and momentum going.
Part # 13 is a Generator cut out (voltage Regulator) That would attach to the top of a generator. Ford used that style until 1940.The year 1940 Ford went to the voltage Regulator on the fire wall.
what you have is a 32 or later engine it has a fuel pump on it , also a juce brake conversion. quite a few of those parts are from a later ford could of been a parts car for the later conversion stuff. good luck with your project.
I know you have been focusing on the Cad but have you done any more on this Model A??? What are your plans?? Lots of those old parts are the remnants of the original mechanical brakes. All the long straight rods, the fat, crooked shaft with the clerics on both ends and one lever in the center is the main "cross shaft" for the brakes. You had a brake light switch (two connections and a "plunger" to activate the switch), and those two longish curved pieces are "engine pans" that a go between the motor (at the oil pan rail) and the frame on each side. That motor is from a 32-34 Ford since it has the fuel pump. Model A motors (28-31) didn't have fuel pumps and relied on gravity for the fuel to flow "downhill" from the tank to the carburetor. The wheels look like Model A. 28/29, Model A wheels would be 21 inches in diameter and 30/31 wheels would be 19" and I don't believe any of the spokes should be bent.
Good project! Re the 'dead cylinder' why not just check the plug spark.? You have compression & dist. looks newish. Engine sounded great compred to the first video. Need to idle the engine right down to see how she runs & also hear any noises. It will probably have timing gear tick but you dont want internal knocks! You seem to know what to do. These Model As are great fun & can be worked on the basic knowledge & tools.. Cheers from NZ.
5 - fuel pump for a Ford flathead V8 7 - Electric fuel pump 9 - Jack Handle for the original crank up jack 12 - Brake and clutch arm assembly 13 - Generator cut out for a 3 brush generator 17 - Brake light switch for original mechanical breaks 19 - plate that went around the petals where they came thru the floor 20 - gas pedal linkage A quick hit on some of the items, hope it helps. Terry
Late to the party but the two big stamped channels go on either side of the engine between the frame and the block. The one with the cut out is the passenger side and the cut out is to clear the exhaust. The tail light lens is a 1932 Ford, those wheels are Model A wheels, but it's not the best idea to go riding around on 88 year old spoke wheel with out having them inspected. Part 8 is a brake and clutch pedal assembly for either a 39 or 40 Ford. 12 is another Early hydraulic brake and clutch assembly. those "steps" Part #19 are the bumper brackets for Model As, they pinch the two beams together and bolt into the irons that attach them to the frame.
Mystery part no 6 is both a crank on one end and the Model A lug wrench on the other, your rims are indeed for a model A. if they are 21 inch rims then they are for a 1927/28.....19 rims are for 30 and 31, not sure about 1929. No. 9 is a folding handle to turn a bottle jack for raising and lowering. the art deco looking thing is a heater and no, it's not for a Model A. part no. 10, mechanical brake rods for Model A, I believe part no. 13 is part o the braking system and goes from side to side with the front brake steel rods on one end of the 'toggle' and the back brake rods on the back side with the hand brake connection potion in the middle. You can order a parts catalog from C W. Moss in Orange California and see and identify your 'mystery' parts pretty easily
That gasket that might be made of felt at 5 minutes 55 seconds..... That could be the deadly blue asbestos (fibrous riebeckite), I know for certain that it was used in 1930's Rover's & you have to be very careful with cars that are old as this incase there are dangerous materials. I hope it was felt! :-)
#11 looks like a heater/fan blower motor of some type. #16 is a (not sure of the correct name) rotational coupler..Something like a U-joint,or maybe steering column coupling. Perhaps somewhere where two shafts are slightly offset..the two plates with the "tabs" go on the shafts,and the ring with the slots sits in the center,and kinda floats on those "tabs". #20 I would hazard a guess that it's the throttle/pedal linkage,as you mentioned. #14,I have no idea,but maybe part of the spout from an old fuel can? #7,no idea..maybe an old electric fuel pump? Perhaps a solenoid/valve?
Part # 18 is the rear emergency brake cable Clevis . The cable runs through the grove . My 40s have the same part exactly. The one part at part # 17 is the is the bracket that bolts to the front frame rail to support the brake line where the steel line meets the rubber brake hose on the front frame rails. This part is the same from 1940 through 1948. This part is right before you show a spark plug. It is the stamped steel piece with 2 holes . The bigger hole is where the brake hose joins with the steel brake line. The other hole is for the bolt that secures it to the frame rail.
part # 17 is a fuel spout for a military style jerry can (5 gallon steel fuel can) the narrow tube is the breather that goes in the can and the lever squeezes the rubber gasket to seal the can while pouring... you did not number the parts but you guessed "steps" in the video...you were wrong...they are bumperettes ( they hold the bumper on)
#1 goes between the fenders and the engine. one on each side. Fuels pump isn't for that car. #6 engine crank. There are different in vintages of wheels for Model As too. I think #8 are brake and clutch pedals that a heater. I noticed the hole in the firewall for the heat from a manifold heater. That would go inside to regulate the heat. I had a heater in my 30 chevy truck that actually would have a gas flame in it. Like the Stewart Warner unit you have. #13 is the crossmember that your brake pedal rod connect to to activate the front and rear brakes at the same time. #14 might be a gas pump nozzle. Don't know for sure but might be from a gravity pump. you might put the nozzle in the the tank and flip the switch to open the pipe to let the gas flow. With the old cars the the tank in the middle of the cowl, that might be what it is. #17 the one piece with the rod, might be part of a starter button. just guess. #19 is the plate that goes on the floor round the steering column and the pedals. The oblong pieces were on the front bumper. They were used for mounting the bumper to the bumper brackets. Those were deluxe! You have a great project there. Do they want it restored? I'd just get it running, arrest the rust, put a good clear coat on it and upholstery and enjoy it! This is not a bad beginning! I have a book from 1965 on "Restoring Your Model A". Quite different now. I am so jealous! Anxious to see your progress! Good luck, Ben!
#1 is an engine pan. There should be 2. They mount from the bottom of the engine between the block and oil pan to the frame of the car. An important electrical ground and engine cooling feature.
I was surprised that it has a rumble seat. being a standard coupe. But it could have been ordered as an option. I can identify at least all of the Model A parts you took out. #1. Those are engine pans which go between the engine and the frame. #5 Fuel pump for a flathead V8 #6 original crank (you'll need that) #8 possible old rim spreader but not Model A #9 Jack Handle for screw up jack #10 Model A mechanical brake rods #13 Service Brake cross shaft #15 & #21 Brackets to hold cross shaft to frame #14 gas can hose (not Model A) #17 stoplight switch & battery hold down brack #19 Bottom floor plate around brake & clutch pedals (top plate was also shown) #20 Accelerator linkage (non Model A I think) The taillight lens and frame is an aftermarket Model A item The oval plates go on your bumpers and the 19' wheels are correct for the car.
Ghost Man The model A is my neighbors, and according to her, it will never be sold. She recently became unemployed, but when she has the $$ she will give me a call. It is still sitting in her garage
Remember, FoMoCo used letters on part numbers to date them, So say it says "D0VE" D=70's and 0 is 1970 it started in the 40s with A 50s=B 60s=C And the number after is the year. B8 is 1958
