They're great little motors. Many of them end up not being great idlers because they have been run at wide open throttle so much, but they can still be good runners. I have a couple good ones and a few others that do not idle the best. They're very simple and reliable motors. The gearcases most often don't leak. There is no gearshift to fail, very easy to change water pump impellers in them. If you are just getting started with outboards and working on them yourself, one of these is a great place to start. Most all of the parts are still available and all the consumables are reasonably priced and available from your local BRP Evinrude dealer or online. Thanks for watching!
I got one just like it a 63' im currently restoring it . There such great little motors and always seem the run well i figured for the work its going to take its well worth it . thanks for posting the video nice to see people running them
The 3hps are excellent little motors. I have gotten a few of them that were totally worn out and would still run at mid to high RPM, but idling was not so good. If they're not worn out, they're beautiful runners. Well worth the work to bring them back to life. Good luck with yours. Thanks for watching!
You're right about the logo and I could be wrong about this one. I checked the numbers when I got it and I thought it checked out as a '53. I'm not 100% certain the fuel tank is original ti this motor either, but I should probably take a little closer look to verify. It may actually be a '52. Thanks for watching!
Great videos. I'm a new subscriber to your channel. I work on alot of old outboards. These lightwins are my favorite motors. Not speed demons by any means but very reliable little engines. Keep up the great videos
Thank you. The little 3 horse OMCs are really nice little motors. About as simple as a 2 cylinder engine can be. Thanks for the sub and thanks for watching.
Could you please help? Best I can tell is my model number is 4443 35998. Can you tell what hp it is, year and best mix ratio to run in it. I’ve googled my brains out and can’t find anything. It looks just like the one in this video. Thanks.
Ethanol fuel is a criminal attempt to save the the world.. Abysmal failure for older motors.. Good run thanks again.. I wounder about some replies i see.. Rock on.. Thanks again johnnyrude always rocks on...
Agreed! Well stated! A criminal attempt to save the world and an abysmal failure, especially for older motors. I'll also add small power equipment carburetors to that list. Thank you and thanks for watching!
@@michaelfitzgerald9502 Yes, we're on the same page. Ole Evinrude was his real name. Ole was his given first name and he adopted the Evinrude surname when he came to the US from Norway. 👍
I had this motor on my 1972 Alumacraft FD 14 foot semi-vee. Yes, this will push a 14 foot Jon. You won't go fast, but it will get you there and back and you can troll well if you want to. Thanks for watching!
Here is the correct carburetor kit for this motor and all the other '54 and up OMC motors from 3hp to 18/20hp motors through 1968. Some others too, but this one fits a lot of motors. Thanks for watching!
On these there is a covered exhaust relief just below the steering swivel between the exhaust housing and the boat transom. Water should be coming out of that relief while the engine is running. I hope this helps. Thanks for watching!
It depends on the particular boat, how much weight is in it and where the weight is. Small kid with not much in the boat could probably plane off and get 9 or 10mph out of a healthy on. Me, at 250lbs in a 10 foot flat bottom jon I'd be luck to see 3mph with the nose in the air.
With the outboard hanging vertically from the transom clamp place a catch pan under the lower unit. Remove the drain plug and the vent plug from the lower unit amd allow the old gear oil to drain out. Connect your gear oil pump to the drain hole at the bottom of the lower unit. Pump marine lower unit lube into the gearcase until it reaches and begins to run out of the top vent hole. Replace the vent plug. Remove the gear oil pump fitting from the drain hole and quickly replace the drain plug. Wipe off any excess. Thanks for watching!
@@oldjohnnyrude8404 Thanks for posting this. I have a motor like this that was supposedly winterized about 45 years ago and then stored in an attic. I am hoping to check it out and get it back in service. I know I need to check out all the fluids and any lubrication and probably change the impeller. I am not a mechanic but having to do this myself. Your tip here is a big help.
@@1201chesapeake The only fluid in it other than possibly old fuel will be the gear oil in the lower unit. You'll definitely want to replace the impeller. The impeller plate and housing too if they are worn and grooved. The carburetor will no doubt have to be serviced. If it still has the original coils, those will be cracked and shot even if they still make a spark. New plug wires, condensers, plugs, and at least polish up and reset the points. Once it is done, they're nice running little engines. Thanks for watching!
With some modifications a fuel pump and a remote tank can be added. Some of the later models in the mid 60s were available with the remote tank option. By 1968 with the fiberglass cover, they only used a remote tank and the built in tank was gone. Thanks for watching!
I have one of those was rebuilding the carb and never could get the needle valve/float valve screw out, so it has been sitting guess I need a special screwdriver
I made a screwdriver for the float valve seats out of a large wide blade screwdriver I bought cheap at a garage sale. The blade was damaged, but I ground it to fit the float valves nicely. It works very well and has a square shank so it will take a wrench if needed. Thanks for watching!
i have a 61 3hp lightwin that I rebuild the carb and put new condensers and coils in. It runs like a top in all rpm ranges besides low idle. It then starts to surge. I am running it in a 35 gallon trash can, any thoughts?
Check the compression. I find plenty of these motors that do that. The trouble is they were so often ru at WOT so much because they are not real fast. All the running at full throttle just causes a lot of wear. They still run pretty well at anything above low idle with compression in the mid 70s, but idle quality starts to suffer. There is a good chance that is the case with yours.
@@jackball2166 OK, 79 isn't that bad. 71 is low, but the bigger issue here is the difference between the two cylinders. You may have carbon or old oil residue or something sticking a ring on the low compression cylinder. Sometimes they will just work themselves free after several heat cycles a day hours of running. There is OMC Engine Tuner or Mercury Power Tune also. They are both excellent products to decarbon an engine. I have freed stuck rings using that before and got my compression back and closer to even. The instructions are on the can. They cylinders should be within no more than 10%. You have 8psi and 10% if the low side is 7.1psi so it is a but over. I woukd try the Engine Tuner treatment.
Can I have help. My lightwin runs good but when you give it full throttle it revs then bogs down. I messed with the carb settings and I doesn’t really change it.
It sounds like a fuel delivery issue. Is your gas tank vent working properly? Does it make any difference if you run the motor with the cap loose or removed? It may be carburetor. When was the carburetor last cleaned and rebuilt? It could also be low compression. Have you checked the compression and made sure the head bolts are tight? Those are things to check if you have not. Thanks for watching!
@@georgeroberts4757 If it is 80 and even that is not bad for a 3hp. The 4hps are usually around 100 or a little more. Most of my 3hps are close to 80, give or take a little. I'd look into the fuel delivery. Supply to the carburetor first. If that is OK, then the carb may need an overhaul if adjustments are not responding properly.
BRP Part # 493071 is available from your local Evinrude dealer or online. Marineengine.com has them on sale right now. It is the universal kit that fits everything from 3hp thru 18/20hp. It has the fuel resistant plastic foam float. That is the kit I use and recommend for these engines. I do not recommend the Sierra or any of the offshore aftermarket kits. Thanks for watching!
I buy many of my parts from Marineengine.com, some from EBay and Amazon. I also get some parts from other club memebers. I'd buy from local dealers if they had any stock and hours that would allow me to use them. Thanks for watching.
They're not fast but they will get you there and they troll great. Speed will probably be between 3 and 5 mph depending on boat and how its loaded. Thanks for watching!
These coils are still produced today by several manufacturers. You can buy OEM and aftermarket from your local Evinrude dealer or online. 0584477 is the OMC / BRP part number. Thanks for watching!
@@NorthEastSaskFarmer You're very welcome. These coils are quite common. They were used by OMC from 1952 and remained in use through the mid 90s in small single cylinders outboards. Thanks for watching.
Yes, most definitely. The old 3hp outboards (and other sizes as well) were rated at the crankshaft. The modern ones are rated at the propeller shaft so there are no losses on the rated HP. The 1990 3hp that I ran just before this one will run circles around this motor. I have run classic OMC 3hps that run faster than this one too but this one does pretty well. Thanks for watching!
If the coils are still original they will be cracked and need to be replaced. If the coils need to be replaced, I would recommend replacing the entire ignition with new points, condensers, and plug wires. A new water pump impeller is also recommended if you don't know when it was last changed. Thanks for watching !
I like this motor. It has ridden along for a backup a couple times. It sat for at least a couple decades before I got it and brought it back to life. It turned out well. Thanks for watching!
What else changed besides the extra oil? The additional oil will lean the fuel/air mixture slightly at the same carb needle setting too, but it seems like that would be very slight and probably not enough to notice. It would be worth a try to make a slight carburetor adjustment though to see if that helps at all. It should run just fine on 16:1. Thanks for watching!
@@colderbytheminute5258 That's an easy fix. It sounds like maybe the carb is a little rich. TCW3 oil doesn't really foul plugs like motor oil used to. Most of.the plug fouling using modern 2-stroke oils comes from fuel rather than the oil in the mix.
