1953 MG TD Engine Tuning 

That book is still sold too! I have it around my house somewhere... Lol

Yes.. i have read that book several times over the years...wish had one ....e loved to drive it

I did not have the benefit of the internet, anybody who knew what they were doing, or access to any literature other than a Chilton when I owned a car with dual SU carbs. I drove that car for years before I became truly proficient at tuning it. The main lesson I learned is that you can't ignore any aspect of the engine because it doesn't have enough displacement to compensate for problems. You need all the potential, all the time.

I agree. I will need to watch it several times because at my age I absorb things more slowly than when I was young and really want to try to get my head around what is really happening. Very much appreciate seeing the actual wrench turning.👍👍

uummm I think if you ask Steve.. he'll tell you b/c they're Stronberrgs.. get SUs instead... see ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-5M7m2WoMKIE.html ...That said my brother managed his TR4 Strombergs after some fiddlin' sticky pistons etc.

@@like2view of course, but they're the same design. My previous comment notwithstanding, i found once i got them right they held tune for a long time..

Hi Pauline Make sure you only lift the piston max 3 mm (0.12 inch) when you check mixture. Also keep 20/50 engine oil topped up in the dashpots for good condition carbs . This is often overlooked When adjusting the mixture nut only small adjustments are usually needed. Basically sneak up on the correct setting. Look at John Twist at university motors because he is a long time professional fixing british cars. His explanations are correct and precise. SU Tune up link---- ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-ttREt7jzthM.html This is twin carbs setup but the concepts apply regardless. best wishes craig I own an MGB and E type jag. and looking for a nice MGTD

@@craigmorton1944 Thank you for the advice. I have watched John Twist.

I read that book in 8th grade I think. Around 1976.

I assume the low doors is because it was comfortable to rest your arms on and easy to get in and out.

I put a five speed in this one, it is so nice. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-HZC2A4ZvwUA.html

1953 is the last year for the TD and then TF was built into 1955.

Iowa British Car Club is in my area.

Except also the MG TB, TC, TF, and Y

Yes I have three of them but don’t use them now that I have a dyno.

You are talking about static timing and I am doing dynamic timing. When you set your engine with static timing you are just guessing at how the engine will perform when it is actually driving. With an advanced timing light like I have you can set the timing of the engine when it is running at 2000+ rpm and set it exactly where you want it to be while driving.

That was because advanced timing lights like mine did not exist back then. Why would you want your car to run good at idle and not when driving it should be the other way around.

@@ThisWeekWithCars I agree with you: tuning the car should be optimised for driving conditions, not idle conditions. Having said that, I would like to see a video on the procedure you do for using a modern timing light: what criteria to use, what settings to use, and so on.

Pop usually means the carb is lean, richen that carb.

The car was stored in a barn for 40 years there is no way to know at this point who put the stuff in the engine.

@@ThisWeekWithCars are you sure it wasn’t near an off shore oil spill? LoL. Car looks really good which contradicts engine condition etc. Nice work. Terrific video. did you rebuild to run on current ethanol unleaded? 👍