1954 Chevrolet 235 engine rebuild. 

Good story, thanks for watching

Great story R, thanks for watching.

Driving at 6, spoken like a true farm kid. My sister's kids were driving big tractors as kids, it gave me gray hairs. No one was ever hurt.

Were the intakes the same color as the block or were they grey?

@@christophermcglothlen5707 Thanks Christopher. On my original 216 the intake and exhaust were the same color as the head and block but that may be due to whatever paint they "may" have been originally had long ago burnt off. You'll see all kinds of color coordinations on these engines these days, I say paint then manifolds anyway you want as long as you like it.

My condolences to you and your family Elizabeth. The pain of his loss will subside over time and be replaced with many small joys when a happenstance triggers one of the many great memories you'll keep of him. That truck may be one of those triggers. My Chevy brings back many small joyful memories of departed loved ones of ours. And at 3 score and a quarter more we find those small joyful reminders to be quite numerous and highly welcomed....... We hope to see them again one day. I've done quite a few vlogs of me stumbling and bumbling along learning about my old trucks while keeping them running, perhaps you'll find some useful. If you have a question post it or email me and I'll be glad to try to help with an answer. Take care and have a good 'un. Sincerely Dave

. Thanks for watching Tsukki_AMV

They are very common, good luck with your proyect :)

Thanks Ryan. The truck it's going in is an original condition 49 3100 and this engine is a period correct upgrade that was done countless times during the 50's and later. My goal is to keep the truck as close to period correct as possible.

@@Volfandt Hey there bud, would you be interested in building another one the exact same way? I just bought a 54 chevy 210 all original and im in the process of pulling the engine out to rebuild / freshen it up. Not sure where you're located but im in SE Michigan. 313-828-0328 give me a call anytime

@@josemiracle8598 hey Jose, my basket is full with too many projects and I'm in down in East TN so I don't think it would work out. Id say there's some good rebuilders up your way. Search for automotive machine shops. If your engine is a 216 it'll take more machining than what a 235 would take. Good luck and thanks for watching.

Thanks Marten. It's running even better now installed in the 49 Chevy.

Thanks m schiffel

Thanks ICR

Thanks

Sounds like you're coming along great. Good luck with it. The prize is worth the journey.

@@Volfandt I'm pretty excited to get to the assembly!

Yeah, she was spitt'n the blue flame but unfortunately I had to repaint the block where it burnt off, LOL. Thanks for watching

Thanks budsodalsky, nothing wrong with staying stock on these engines. We had to go 0.060 over dues to damage in #1 cyl. Since you only went 0.030 over you've got another rebuild in your engine, should it need it. Good luck.

Thanks Jonathan

Hey Bill, sounds great. Wonder what modern marvels today will have that same longevity.

Thanks Joe.

Agree Vince, thanks for watching 👍

And nothing more satisfying then a smooth run on start up.

They are stout powerplants.

Thanks Ignacio

1st you've got to deal with a good reputable automotive machine shop and let them do all the machine work. Then watch as many youtubes as you can on rebuilding. Knowing someone thats done successful engine rebuilds is a huge plus. Theres always tricks to the trade and "gotcha's", so thats where the experience comes from. Lastly you'll need the special tools and each engine has their own requirements. Good luck.

Thanks Aaron, those 5 windows (Deluxe cab's) are nice. Good luck.

Thanks Old Iron

Thanks for the critique. I originally didn't plan on this being a youtube video so I didn't document all the steps. Rest assured all the oil passages were thoroughly cleaned, all non-replaced parts were put back exactly where they originated and the rope seal was soaked overnight in oil before final assembly. It's been my experience to fit each main bearing cap and check for proper clearance and crank rotation before the rope seal is installed because once the rope seal is installed the crank will no longer spin easily. Not detailing the installing of the new cam, new lifters and new push rods is an oversight I wished I did include but unfortunately I didn't record or take any pics during that stage. In any case thanks for your input. btw, the engine has approx 1500 miles on it now and is running great, bling and all, LOL. I've got it documented in newer video's, check them out. Dave

👍

Thats how they came from the factory. I've since swapped the bypass oil filter off of the 216 on to this 235. With close to 10k miles on it now it's purring like a happy kitten.

Theres a couple quick checks you can do to help isolate the problem. #1 verify the carbs accelerator pump is working. With the engine off and the air cleaner removed. look down the throat of the carb while pulling the throttle to full open. If you don't see a squirt of fuel the carb's accelerator circuit isn't working. #2 verify the vacuum advance is working. With the engine idling, manually work the throttle open and close and observe that the distributor moves. It should rotate via carb vacuum. If not verify the vacuum line is good and tight and theres vacuum getting to the advance. If vacuum is getting to the advance the advance unit is bad. Either one of those is a common cause of what you described. Good luck

@@Volfandt wow!!! Thanks so much!! This is super helpful

Thanks Rob. That engine is about to breath new life into a 49 Chevy 3100.

Thanks for watching Ed

Yes, the 49 Chevy 3100 this engine is going in still has the original OEM drive train which is the enclosed torque tube drive shaft & 3 speed transmission. This engine will bolt directly up to it but I have to reuse the original 216's bell housing inorder for the rear motor mounts to bolt to the OEM cross member. I'll put new seals and gaskets on the torque tube when I do the swap. Even tho the engine is a 54 it is still a period correct mod that keeps in line with my desire to try and keep the truck period correct. Thanks

The machinist I used to bore the block out had a hot tank that he cleans all engine parts in and he did mine. It cleaned it out real good. It's hard to get all the internal coolant passages cleaned out of a block and head without fully submersing them in a good cleaning solution. All that said oven cleaner is a good degreaser. A good radiator flush can also be a good cleaner if the engine is still in the vehicle and can run and heat it up. Good luck Dave

0.060" over brings the 235 up to 244 CI. Thanks for watching.

A good single carb should do what you need. A Rochester B carb is a good carb when it's properly serviced. The Carter YF carb is considered the best carb to run on a Chevy 235 by many and they made tons of them back in the day. Finding a good one will cost you but it's said they are worth it. Make sure the choke on your Roch B carb is fully open when the engine is hot and fully closes when it's cold (been sitting over night). The proper adjustment is where it meets both extremes. Good luck.

Thanks for watching Sonia

I purchased mine from Patricks but he's no longer in business. Try Tom Langdon : www.langdonsstovebolt.com/store/#!/Chevy-216-235-261/c/18665935 I purchased my carb setup from him and he also carries cams.

There are ring grinder/filer tools available from many sources. They run from around $40 & up. All my rings were within spec but if I had to file or grind the ends for more clearance I would have used a very skinny fine file I have just for these type of situations. It's always wise to get all your ducks in a row. Good luck with your future rebuild.

Thanks for watching

No, I didn't have to put any kind of restrictor in the copper preheat tubes. As a matter of fact they hardly do the job of preheating the intake. They do not work any where close to how the stock preheat flapper works. That said they do seem to help warm up the intake & is better than not having them.... Many have said that plumbing hot water to the intake works alot better than those copper preheat tubes (including Tom Langdon) but I decided to try the exhaust preheat route as I figured it would heat up the intake quicker than it took for the coolant to get hot. Good luck

@@Volfandt I appreciate your input. I was thinking it would be too hot and create vapor lock in the summer for me. Did you end up routing tubing from each header to the heat plate or just one? The kits I've seen only sell the heat plate with one set of compression adapters and one threaded hole in the heat plate.

@@euzkadi44 I routed copper tubes from both headers in hopes it would increase flow and heat. Routing from both headers is definitely better than from just one. I believe I got the heat plate kit from Tom Langdon which had holes and hardware for both headers. ( he actually recommends plumbing in hot water instead of header heat).

@@Volfandt I'll drill and tap a new hole and try to source the compression fittings. Thanks for your invaluable advice! I really enjoy your channel. Keep up the great work!

Shane, if the 235 in that 57 is strong it should easily run 60-65 mph all day long @ around 2500-2600 RPM based on it's rear differential gearing. If the tranny in the 57 is a powerglide automatic the engine would have come stock with hydraulic lifters. Chevy put solids in the straight shift cars and all trucks. The 235/powerglide combination would have a slightly higher HP rating also. As for souping it up, my 235/244 is about as souped as you can do one. You could try and find the rare and expensive 53-55 Vette triple carb setup but I doubt it would make more power than my dual carb setup. One additional hotrod mod would be to score one of those very rare and extremely expensive 12 port heads, otherwise a good cam and slightly larger SBC intake valves will be about all you can add to make these old heads breath better. The "848" head is the best factory head you can get as it'll get you about an 8 -1 compression ratio. I have an 848 on my 235/244. The newer model 230/250/292 series of engines are more buildable for more HP. Their rockers are the same as whats in the SBC. The 57 you're looking at will already have a factory open drivetrain so upgrades are much more easier. Good luck Dave

"but are there aftermarket conversions available to run a hydraulic or even maybe a hydraulic link-bar roller lifter setup?" To answer this question, it's generally accepted (and proven by a few who have tried) that trying to convert a motor that was manufactured with solid lifters CANNOT be converted to hydraulic lifters. I don't remember the reasons. It just doesn't work. Very likely has something to do with the oil galleys.

No it's not a stock cam, it is often referred as a 3/4 race cam or a 264 cam. It provides more lift & duration over a stock 235 and 261 cam. The stock 261 cam has more lift & duration over a stock 235 cam and is often used in 235's to increase performance. It's said the Blue Flame 235's in the 53 & 54 Vette's used a cam with the 261 specs. The 3/4 cam is hotter than the stock 261 cam. Thanks for watching.

I sourced the rebuild kit through Patricks Stovebolt but unfortunately he is no longer in business. You can get the basic rebuild kit (gaskets, pistons, rings, main & rod bearings etc.,) through NAPA or most any engine rebuild supply houses and the performance parts from Tom Langdon's Stovebolt. He may even supply the basic kit or recommend a source. Good luck.

This was an earlier version. IF interested try this link for narration: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-vo7MZJnVgfc.html Or try this link for some Stovebolt history & modification examples: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-M9OcysOaEP8.html

Yes

I'm approaching 1800 miles on the engine and so far I've not had any mechanical issues. It's avg'ing around 15.5 MPG, haven't gotten any hotter than 185 (extended idling) and starts right up whether hot or cold. The parts I used were 1st class and I took care to use a good break-in oil and broke-in the cam and lifters per the accepted procedures. The dual carbs and dual exhaust seem to work great but I believe the OEM single carb and single exhaust would likely work out just as well. Good luck.

@@Volfandt hey man I really appreciate it. That is such a awesome set up. Dont have to much fun with it lol

You definitely want to run a T'stat in an engine that was designed to run one. They not only warm the engine up quickly they also regulate the temp so the engine operates at it's most efficient power output. What is the temp rating of your T'stat? If it isn't a 160 change it out to a 160. You also want to run a 50/50 antifreeze mix as it will cool much better than straight water. Conventional wisdom indicates that running without a T'stat can actually cause an engine to run hotter as the coolant moves through the radiator too quick to get cooled down properly. Theres always exceptions to the rules tho.... Changing a T'stat is fairly easy so you can experiment some. Hope all is well with you and yours on the Island.

@@Volfandt thanks I will change it to 160 because the acrual one is a 190. Make a lot of sense. Thank you! Appreciate it very much!

@@Volfandt Thank you very much! I install the 160°F thermostat and it kept the engine gauge showing only half way all the time. It never went more than half and thats what we want it. Your recomendation was a home run. Appreciate it very much! I keep you posted on every question with my proyect.

Good luck with it. Alot of the same procedures are the same across all ICE's. Is that an OHV or flathead? Either way I'm sure you'll enjoy it once it's complete.

COngrats on running it.

I ordered the parts from Patricks Antique truck parts but unfortunately they've closed down in the past year. All the rebuild parts are available from on line providers, you'll probably have to use several.

@@Volfandt you can also get parts from 6=8 Clifford

chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/

Patricks Stovebolt parts but unfortunately he's been out of business for a couple years now. Try Langdon Stovebolt parts.

Thanks.

I've heard these Stovebolt engines referred to as glorified tractor engines and I don't necessarily disagree with it but with that said only the SBC has had a longer run as the base engine for GM vehicles than these old Stovebolt engines. Thanks for watching.

Thanks JC, In the description is a link to the engine running with no music.

Parts and machine work ran about $1800.00. Unfortunately the provider I purchased all the internal engine parts from is no longer in business so those parts prices could now be higher or lower depending upon the provider/sources. Assembly, testing and break-in was done by me. That said if you were to pay for labor I'll guesstimate you're looking at another $2000 - $3000.

Theres popup cards during the video that will take you to the engine running without music and theres individual links in the description that also link to no music engine running.

Thanks for watching and the input.

Travis, my plate is full for the foreseeable future, so I'll have to respectfully decline but thanks for the opportunity. Depending on where you're located, there may be several capable rebuild shops near you. What you may try is to remove the plugs squirt some oil into each cylinder, manually rotate the engine to ensure it turns and if it does try to start it up. It may run. Good luck

@@Volfandt just got her to fire up would you mind guesstimating what i should expect to spend to rebuild? If i pay a professional. Would help me a lot on deciding what to do with this truck.

@@travisloucks948 parts for my 235 ran approx $1300 and thats not counting any of my labor. An old rule of thumb to estimate a price is to double the parts price for labor so I'd estimate a turnkey price of $2600-$3000. I've seen folks say they got a rebuilt stovebolt engine for $2100-$2500 but thats from the internet so take it with a grain of salt. Since your engine is running it may not need a full rebuild. Does it have good oil pressure? The higher the better. Do a compression test, if all the cylinders are within 10%-15% of each other the bottom end should be GTG. Good luck

Try this version: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-vo7MZJnVgfc.html

I updated the rebuild video here with no music, follow the link: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-vo7MZJnVgfc.html