1955 International Harvester - 454 & SM465 Clutch and Fit-Up 

Interesting. As I remember, the medium duty and heavy duty 366 and 427 trucks of the 1970's used a double-disc fiber clutch for the first part of the decade and then switched to a ceramic double-disk later in the decade.

The spot on the engine mount that you thought was welding is where someone cut the bolts holding the mounts to the cross member. It's called a junkyard pull.

After watching you tap the pilot bushing, I see that there are certain advantages to working in a cold workshop.. cross member worked out really well, too. Great stuff 👍👍

Love seeing this all coming together, great video series!

I'm thrilled to see this update!!!!

I just found your channel & binge watched all the International videos. Keep up the good work. Looking forward to future videos.

Awesome video; and excellent details. I love it! Very excited to see the progress!! Thank you!!!

Using bread believe it or not works even better than grease to remove the pilot bearing because it doesn't squeeze out as much

I'm sooo glad to see another video from you my friend! 😁 Been looking forward to an update on your truck. Really enjoy your editing and how you explain your plans. Take care Bennett! 🙂👍

This thing is gonna be sick! Thanks for filming this!

Really excited about this update, was hoping all was well with you and yours 👍 best to you man

Good to see progress! Great work! I'm the guy with the nearly identical truck in Indiana.

Please can you list all the parts you are using clutch flywheel everything I’m doing the same swap thank you!

Um doing the same thing with my 74 200 pickup putting a sm465 and 454 in it

ah your putting a 454 in the truck😮‍💨

What pilot bearing is that? Im getting ready to swap a 454 into my truck with the same trans

when do we get to see some more vjdeos on the truck

Listen close. I am tickled shickless that its coming together. I would while the engine is out try and see if the plug wires can be tucked under the manifolds if they don't tuck tight to the engine as well. If the manifolds are with in two inches don't mount wires in that way as it will be a bitch to get them out short of cutting an taking out pieces of them. That bolt next to the fuel pump is in backwards and usually the nut is secured to the mount but since its never been in this rig, run the right bolts through... it looked like they used starter bolts for the mounts to me as they look long and don't fit tight to the mount like they should. Tight is a friend here as that will wiggle loose and come out if its not right. I would probably change fuel pumps while out and easier to do. Easy off oven clean the engine and give it a bath. Plus I would change the timing chain an pull that pan off and get it spotless. Make sure you check the pick up tube to make sure its not loose at all. if it is, redo it and when its in the right place tack weld it to the pump as they are famous for losing the bottom because of air cavitation in the pan. Also as dirty as that engine is, I would pull the intake off an use right stuff on the ends of the block so that intake doesn't let oil leak there. I am one of the best an know this is true cause I told myself so. I am a phd armchair mechanic who has actually turned wrenches for a living. Good luck. While that pan is down, hammer those holes for holding the pan out so it does tighten an don't overtighten as there is tight an there is too tight. I use right stuff sealer on mine and leave the pan slightly loose while that silicone drys, so when its tightened it doesn't crawl in to the pan and leak. I am sure you knew this but reminding one is sometimes a lifesaver

Did you get it done?

Are you running hydro clutch?