Gidday Michael, don't worry about how others think you should fit pistons, this is your show so do it your way thats why I watch you to see how you do it, not the way Joe Blogs says you should. Keep up the good work.
Merry Christmas Mike and Linda. You did alright with pressing and lining up the crank together in the preceding video. I've done a lot of one cylinder cranks (always cold) and the only thing I'd do different is to use a high pressure engine assembly lube on the pin and holes. When it gets down close and is "popping", slide a feeler gauge between the rod and crank about .001" thicker than the side clearance you want and pump the press to about half of what it took to make the last "pop". Then tap it with a heavy brass hammer until it settles onto the feeler gauge. It's a good idea to measure across the outside flywheel edges before you press apart to deal with the finished end clearance. Surprising that BSA didn't use any shim washers on each side of the rod. I'm slowly getting over this back problem I have and be getting on with it......Steamshop Dave
Great stuff. When I was a lad an engineer mate of my dads helped me out with that ring problem. He tied a piece of string to one of the studs then round the ring. Compressing the rings one at a time the piston happily slid into the bore.
Hi Michael, a good protective idea to stop the gudgeon circlip from entering the crankcase if it doesn't go straight into the piston is to cover the crank opening with a piece of rag. Ask me how I know??? Love your videos. Take care and thanks for all your efforts to show us how things are done.
Really enjoying this project. Love the winterwonderland scene at the end. Thanks for providing the fascinating videos during a dismal 2020. Stay safe 😷 Seasons greetings to you and your family from a sunny Malaysia. 😎😷🇲🇾
A super last video before Christmas Michael, thank you. Your video's are a bright light in a really dark time in the world! Hope you enjoy playing with your little tractor in the snow. Just like to wish you and your good lady Linda a Very Merry Christmas and a Safe and Prosperous New Year From Anne and Dave in the UK.
Hello Michael, Just a quick thank you for all your entertaining videos on 2020... I hope you and your family have a Merry Christmas and Happy New Year... and I will see you in 2021 with your retired Sunday best cap. Take care Paul,,
Just finished watching ( had a couple of busy days) I’m really envious of your workshop 😀 merry Xmas and happy new year from a miserably wet locked down uk 👍🌲🎉🎅
Michael, someone asked (in one of the RE350 Scrambler vids I think) if you were a mechanic. You poo-pooed the idea and commented did we think you'd make so many mistakes if you were a time served mechanic. I don't think you are a mechanic, you are better than that and (whether trained or not) an engineer, and it is this engineering aspect I love so much about your videos. Mechanics nowadays do not have the skills which are no longer required in this day and age where you replace rather than repair. Whilst not having the experience you have, I have done a lot of the stuff you do, overhauling engines, car gearboxes and axles, etc, reaming bushes, manufacturing brackets, etc, so I understand what you are doing and appreciate the knowledge and skill you bring to it. Have an enjoyable Christmas and I look forward to the next instalment in the C15T saga.
Thanks again for another grand video. Have a good Christmas and I look forward to seeing the next video. I’ll have bottle or three of Newcastle Brown for you 👍🏻👍🏻
I think the difficulty with the oil pump might be because it’s perhaps not original and the casing is slightly oversize. I removed and refitted the one on my C15 quite a few times and don’t remember having any trouble with it. I had to work on mine in an unheated and poorly lit garage belonging to a friend’s father so I’m glad I didn’t!
I have had a similar thought, it is about 50 years now since I worked on C 15 engine, but I don't recall ever having problems removing or fitting the oil pump. I also echo what has been said about the distributor clamp and the tappet oil holes. Back then I was working on them in my mates wooden shed that we built from scrap wood. :)) happy days !
27:08 5 to 5, time for Crackerjack, or was it Blue Peter or Magpie? lol. I think I woulda turned that gearbox shaft around but then I don't have a drawer full of reamers. Thanks for this year's video's have a great Christmas and happy new year.
Partly fit the piston and rings into the cylinder on the bench then lower the assembly over the connecting rod and slip the pin in place and then install the circlip, I've been doing it like that for 50 years and it'a a darn site easier and safer than the way you do it
@@gerry343 A longer bevel provides less supported area for the piston, and tends to allow more oil up the bore, which may exceed the ability of the oil control ring to scrape it off and return it to the sump.
I thought the same 55 degrees tried to post from Wiki, but was curtailed - but according to them its obsolete - what do they know - Merry Christmas and Stay safe
Hi Michael, Firstly a very happy new year to you and your family. Let's hope 2021 will be much better for everyone. I was wondering will your next video be posted on Sunday 3rd at the normal time ? Cheers again hope the new hat is a good one.
Michael, What is the function of the two holes in the cam followers? Do they pass oil? Or does the cam follower have a different ramp profile fore and aft, and the holes denote rear?
The B25 ones are thinner at one end but the C15 ones are not so I don't see the need for front or back with them. The cam followers are hollow but are solid at both ends and there are two oil drain drillings in the tappet block. I honestly don't know what they are for.
@@BritanniaMotorcycles I'd noticed the two oil drain holes in the tappet block. I'm the kind of person who slows the video down to see every detail, now I know you don't know I don't feel so stupid 😉
Thanks for your excellent videos and iam really enjoying your current project, can’t wait for Sunday’s , just off the point have also Been watching the videos on the Henderson, but can only find up to no seven On your list ? Was that the last one for some Reason thanks
There are very few places to get the various bearings rebabbited so there is a long waiting list. I know that the bearings are done and are waiting to be line bored by the same people. I just have to be patient.
Dear Michael, Great video as usual but I have just double checked the Rupert Ratio book and it would seem that you have fitted your cam followers the wrong way round the oil holes should face to the rear towards the gearbox, and secondly the distributor bracket you have put in the wrong way round the screw hole needs to be towards the front close to the other screw hole in the crankcase this will save you a lot of work if you do these before you fit the crankcase cover. A very happy Christmas and new year to you and your family . Regards Martin Walker
My experience has always been that those oil pumps fit easily after you file off all the bures and dings from where Billy Hell makes his appearance and in a fit of rage flings the pump across the shop taking out at least one light fixture , bouncing of the wall and across two customers bikes and then wedging it self under the floor jack in the corner , but hey maybe that's just me
ohh wow i think that's the first time iv heard you say schist in a vid, nice to know you're into rocks as well lmao. coming along nicely this is going to be one shmick looking bike when you're done. not sure if you're aware but when pressing bearings onto a shaft it's best to push from the inner race so the pressure is not transferred through the balls. Hope you and you're family have a great christmas and a rather lovely new year. fingers crossed Santa brings you some real beer, and Spot a yummy bone.. Thanks for the vids and we'l see you next year.
Happy Christmas and many thanks for all the hard work. I really wouldn't recommend fitting the case onto the crankshaft like that. Especially using a gun to screw the bolts and nuts into place. You have no way of checking that the bearing has gone all the way into place and you are also squashing the crankshaft together. There is a proper tool to pull the shaft into the bearing but you can do without it if you warm the bearing and cool the shaft. It'll slide straight on.
The original bush has a helical oil groove, which is intended to ''screw'' the oil back into the gear case as the shaft revolves. If you put the bush in backwards, it will pump oil out out. The differentials on prewar cars often used this arrangement, which worked OK until the vehicle was reversed, with predictable results.
Hello. I need a cluch endcover assembly #19-7801 or 57-3705 do you have this part, what is the price? or do you hnow who can sell it to me? Thank you very much. I live in Spain.
Take my advice Michael and stop using those piston circlips you like so much because they can come out when the engine is at high rpm, the extra weight of the tang causes the clip to resonate at a certain frequency and bosh the clip comes out or it breaks and the result is a scrap piston and cylinder, I've seen it happen too many times
I can’t help but yell at the screen when watching some of this, first of the oil holes in the cam followers face rearward snot forward.secondly the points housing clamp the hole should be at the front not the back. If you read the RR engine book it tells you this.
