Hi Paul. Thanks for this video, it's very helpful. It also makes me think that the problem I have can only be resolved by taking out the whole driver's side window on my 69 Roadrunner and then reinserting it. But I want to double check my conclusion. Here's the issue. At 3:47 in your video, you're attaching what you call the pin and t-bars (sliders) and fastening them together at the top edge of the window (you also attached them to the bottom edge but the bottom is not the problem). So on my car, the top slider's pin broke over time and the pin and sliders fell inside the door. The bottom slider is still attached and ok. I purchased a new set of sliders (pin and two t-bars) to replace that top slider. Now that the top edge of the window has no slider, it backs out of the channel and I can easily see and access the hole in the glass. I attached the new slider and disconnected the top of the vent from the channel (like you did in the video prying them apart with a wrench), but trying various things, I could not get the slider back into the channel. I think I'm stuck and am going to have to remove the entire glass and re-slide it back into the channel. Do you agree or does something come to mind I'm not thinking of? (Interestingly enough, I did what you were doing above by prying the two pieces with the wrench, but I used a screw driver....then I gave up and started researching and stumbled upon your video. I wish I'd seen your video first before spending all the time I did).
Hi, Dave. Sorry for the month-long delay in responding. Hopefully you've resolved this issue already. What's preventing the slider from going back into the channel? Is it because the glass needs to go higher, above the channel? I wouldn't expect you'd need to remove the glass completely--maybe just disconnect it from the regulator (down inside the door) and slide the glass up high enough to get the slider into the channel, then reconnect.
@@PaulBroenen Hi, Paul. Thanks for the reply! Here's clarification. I'm trying to add new sliders (T-Bar) to the top edge of driver's window (bottom is ok I think) without removing the glass. So while the glass is still attached, I crank the regulator so it will go as high up as possible and expose the top enough so I can attach the new T-Bar. I think when I tried it last, it wouldn't crank up high enough to expose itself above the channel. So, yes, to your question that it needs to go higher, above the channel. I tried that just over a month ago but maybe I didn't do it properly, so I'm thinking to try it again (without disconnecting the window) to see if I can get it to rise above the channel. If that doesn't work, then I think I have to do your suggestion and open up the door panel to disconnect it from the regulator. For the first method, leaving it connected to the regulator, do you think it will crank up high enough to expose the top enough above the channel to add the new TBars?
@@davebal4846 Hey, Dave. There's what I call an "upper stopper" inside the door that limits the upward travel of the window. On my car, it's an L-bracket that attaches with two small bolts to the inside sheet metal of the door body. If this thing is keeping your glass from cranking up high enough, then you would have to remove your door panel to access the two 7/16 bolts that fasten that stopper. Perhaps you could leave the glass attached to the regulator and just crank it up as high as it will go to get the clearance you need. One way or another, I suspect you'll have to remove that door panel.
@@PaulBroenen Hi, Paul. I didn't re-try as I had alluded to above because I re-watched your video and noticed that the hole on the very bottom edge of the window in relation to the hole where I need to put the pins in are too close in distance. In other words, when I saw the distance in your video, I realized there's no way for the window to crank up high enough beyond the track to expose the top-most hole. You're right, I need to take the door panel off and release the glass.
Hi, Kyle. If you're talking about the horizontal felts, and if your door panel has been removed, then you have two choices. You can release the nylon rivet that connects the glass to its lower track, then carefully move the glass out of your way. After replacing the whiskers, just put the glass back into its track, and pop in the rivet. If you want to avoid messing with the nylon rivet (they can break), you could stuff some rags into the door cavity and remove the three 7/16 bolts holding the regulator to the door, then carefully lower the regulator AND glass down to rest on your rags. Swap the whiskers out, then put the reggie and glass back--making sure everything lines up as before. Good luck!
I was wondering if you might know the answer to the following. I took my glass out, regulator and slide. I installed new wiskers and put it back together. Everything seemed to line up. I put things back where they should have come from based on paint marks. The project is done. Only problem is that when I roll it down, it wont go down enough. It stops just above the door. Enough to feel it when you rest your arm there on an open window. It really should drop another half inch. Any Idea how to adjust that? I did see the regulator adjustment but didnt really want to mess with it. Not being sure how it works. Any help would be appreciated. Jeff
Hi, Jeff. I think the lobe-shaped adjuster on the regulator is your only option, unfortunately. I went out and checked my windows in their down position, and the highest point on the window's edge is a good 1/8 inch below the top surface of the trim--too low to feel with your arm. I was lucky, because I didn't mess with my adjuster, either. Sorry, I wish I had an easier answer for you. 😕
@@PaulBroenen I did see that screw and lock nut there. I didnt want to mess with it. I wasnt sure how it worked. Looks like that is my best option. Thanks for taking the time to check that out. You can see the car on this account, if you are interested.
@@Campbase1 Wow, a `69 GTX! Nice. I Google around bit to see if there's any difference between first and second generation B body window regulators, and it looks like they're pretty much the same. There are two pieces involved in the lower stopper. One is on the cranky mechanism that bolts to the door, and it's a slotted stud with a lock nut. The other is lobe-shaped or round piece of metal that sits on the big, curved gear at the base of the arm. On my `66, it's shaped like a lobe or half-circle. On others I've Googled, it's circular. Either way, that piece should be adjustable. By changing its position, you should be able to adjust your maximum roll-down. It would help if I could post pictures here :)
@@PaulBroenen Glad you like the GTX. I have kind of given up on new videos but, I continue to replace parts on the car. Many of the things Im doing on the car could be useful information. But, I think I have done enough for now. Your videos are really good and helpful. I can tell you put a lot of time into them. Thanks for the additional information.
Sorry, Hatish, I do not. From what I've seen on-line, the A-body and B-body window regulator designs are similar. Are you noticing significant differences in the designs?
@@PaulBroenen Well, this is the only Dodge Dart Convertible in my country and I'm restoring it. having restored many Chevys and Fords successfully, I find the Dart convertible in particular has pretty much poor design for door window adjustments. And I can't seem to find any info or video on door window adjustments even the manual doesn't say much, but hundreds of such videos on Chevy and Ford.
@@hmayerv8 Based on what I can find on the web, it's hard to tell whether your A-body regulator has a built-in stopper. My B-body reggie does have one, which controls the downward travel limit. The stopper is a lobe-shaped bit of metal with a bolt running through it and the regulator body, with a lock nut to make it adjustable. Does your regulator have something like that? Is it the upward travel or the downward travel that you are having trouble adjusting?
@@PaulBroenen yes it has a stopper in the centre of the upper door. There should rightfully be 2 stoppers one for the front of glass and another at rear of glass so we can adjust the glass for a perfect fit on the top against the convertible rubber seal. One stopper is not going to do its job esp being in the centre. If you raise up the glass at the vent side the rear glass side goes 1inch above the top material. So the glass needs to be adjusted Up and down which there's no adjustments that I can see. Stopper only stops the glass from going beyond its point.
@@hmayerv8 I see. That sounds a lot different from what I've got. My upper stopper engages with only the arm on the regulator to prevent the whole window from going too high. The window remains level as it travels up and down, thanks to the two vertical tracks (front and rear), and when it meets the solid roof at the top of its travel, it is forced to align with it. At no point does it tilt toward the front or rear. Sorry, I wish I could be more help. :(
Surprisingly, no. The A bodies had a totally different window regulator design. Instead of connecting to the window glass at a single point, like my B body, the A body regulator connected at two points, using a scissor-lift kind of action.
