The block came back from re-surfacing and I started putting the engine together. With the new trust washers the endplay of the crankshaft is exactly as per the spec.
To rub 0.035" off a block with a bit of sandpaper is unbelievable. You would leave way less than that if you had a surface grinder. Your dedication and patience is amazing.
Hi Elin, you are a great tutor - well done. I look forward to pulling apart my TR6 in due course - luckily have spare engine gearbox etc so can take my time. These tutorials are invaluable. Many thanks, Peter, New Zealand.
It must have been hard at that time with just a manual as info source. Nowadays for the smallest issue we head to the computer to see how others solve this problem.
It was learning by doing. I was 19 years old an had never worked on an engine before. The MG was okay, but the XK was a challenge. DOHC aluminium heads were not common back then. I had to hand grind the valve shims on emery paper. The engine ran well when I finally got done with it. The body was not rusted, but needed some repairs and I had it sandblasted since it had 4 coats of paint on it. I worked more than 2 years on the car.
I like to fill the oil pump with Vaseline to prime the pump at start up. The sealing block ends are sealed by driving in wooden wedges that should come with the gasket kit. Cam lube should be used on the cam lobes even if reusing the old cam and lifters. Engine assembly should be done in as clean an environment as possible. This is one job where I wear newly cleaned coveralls or none at all. I do not use the air gun anywhere near an engine that is being assembled. I prefer to do the job on my own in an empty shop after everybody else has gone home.
way to go Elin i am also working on a couple in my garage ,i will slow down to let you catch up LOL looking good .waiting for more . I love it ,just in time for spring .
Haha, I will be slowing down too soon, because the shop is getting filled with a real work. Soon I won't be able to do anymore restoration work during the day. But I still have the evenings and weekends :)
Yeah, I know it is better to use assembly lube. It stays longer wherever you put it and there is no risk of a dry start. But especially with this engine I am planning to try priming it before the first start, just to make sure there is pressure on the gauge and everything is OK before the first start. So the regular oil should be fine for now. But I really have to get some assembly lube. It looks like more engines will require assembling in the near future.
There was just a big debate on triumphexp about this. The consensus seemed to be that if you're going to start the engine relatively soon, it's OK to just use oil. If it's going to sit for a while (weeks, months), the assembly lube is better.
I was always told to be sure the mating surfaces for the main and rod bearings should be totally clean and free of oil...I don't know for sure myself if it matters or not though. Just assembly lube on the bearing surface.
your not supposed to wipe the back of the bearing with oil when installing it in the saddle, ive done it that way several times, im thinking it might change the oil wedge cleareance, but either way it works
How about lighting and balancing the crank? and weigh the pistons and make the the same weight, also the con rods. lighten and balance the flywheel. port and gas flow the cyl head and fit a high lift cam (stage 1 or 2 road race cam). The engine will produce more power and torque and rev limit can be raised.
Wonderful video. I was wondering how difficult it is to put the bearing cups on the connecting rods. Is it difficult to “clip” them in place? What gasket paste are you using since I am normally not a big fan of that. Many thanks! Cheers from Belgium 🇧🇪
Thank you. The bearings clip on the connecting rods very easy, you only need your fingers. The gasket maker I am using is called Aviation Form-A-Gasket by Permatex
Hello Elin, really enjoy your videos, very informative. I am restoring a 73 TR6 and I'm looking for an engine stand for it. From what I've read on various sites, there seems to be an issue finding a stand that will attach to the TR6 engine, due to the location of the various places that the stand can be attached to on the block. Can you tell me what the brand and model number is of the stand you use as seen in this video (1970 Triumph TR6 Restoration Project - Part 7 - Assembling The Engine). Thank you.
not supposed to put oil under the bearings cause it messes up the clearances when it burns and swells up but yes put lots of oil between bearing and bare journals
Hey Elin, Did you install the oil sleeve on the end of the crank shaft? My seal & gasket kit didn't come with one, but I notice it's a part on the Moss catalog. it's the sleeve which interfaces with the front oil seal.
Hey Elin, When you spun your crankshaft to see if it spun freely after torquing everything down, how free was it? Mine felt a little tight - it would be a little hard to spin by hand at first, and would get easier after i started spinning it. If i let it sit for a bit, it would be tight again until I moved it around. I could do it by hand, just wondering if your experience was super smooth and gliding - if it was, I might have to pull it back apart and investigate. I don't know what "too tight" feels like.
It is a bit tight at the beginning, no worries. As long as it moves, it should be good. If the bearings are too tight you wouldn't be able to spin it at all unless you are using a big breaker bar. You are using assembly lube, right? Don't forget :)
What did you find concerning the crank end float? Had the thrust washers fallen out of their space? Any damage to the block/crank if so? Coming up is my favorite part of the assembly because it's the part I least understand. Thanks again for the informative videos.
The trust washers were still in their spaces, but they were extremely worn. No other damage to the engine, so with the new washers the problem was solved.
@@RustyBeauties They wear because they need solid lubricant on them or they start dry, been there and done that. Always prime these motors with a drill and adaptor to drive the oil pump before installing and starting the motor.
I didn't think it was necessary since I measured the crank and all the measurements were the right ones for standard bearings. Unless the bearings sizes were off for some reason everything should be OK.
Elin - Love your video's! They have been so great and helpful... I had a question about this video... did you not put the 2 freeze plugs underneath the front engine plate?
Thanks Craig! I never took out any freeze plugs on this engine. You can see at 14:48 they are there. The engine started and I even drove the chassis with it later on so if there were no freeze plugs it would be a big mess :)
Oh, that was tricky! I had to do it 3 or 4 times until I finally got it, but my camera ran out of battery and I don't have video of that. Now it is hard for me to explain. I put the rubber gaskets a little bit lower than the block (actually much lower - maybe 1/4") and then I put in first one side of the block just enough so it holds the rubber between itself and the engine block and then the other side. Then I started taping it with a soft hammer and I was hoping that the rubbers were going to move slower than the block as any other time, but they didn't. What happened was they stretched and and at the end the top end became even with the top of the block, while the bottom end was still sticking below it. So when the block was almost at it's place I had to reach underneath it with an exactor knife and cut the excess and then kept going down. I don't think this is the right way though. I have to look around for a solution so next time I know.
Just watched it.... Something makes me stay away from anything with that type of advertisement. It is obviously paid audience, superexited host, "ladies and jentlemen - this has never been done before...." Bla, bla.... It might be a good additive, but the way they advertise it makes me want to look for another one. I am sorry!
