Love the the Nova. Daughter and I are building one. Carbureted 6.0 LS stage 4 cam, 200 shot, TH400 with a brake and 3k converter. It should be a fun little street car.
Very smart of you to jailbreak it from the woes of EFI and an electronic transmission. Did the same thing when I swapped a 5.9 Magnum into my Mopar. Keeps the car simple, reliable and tunable as it was intended to be. Too many people ruin classic muscle cars with BS "modern technology" that is horribly inefficient, convoluted and unnecessary.
@@markusbester9864 Is that why my dads LS silverado is sitting in the yard broken down and my stock carbureted 84 Trans Am and 79 Cutlass next to it will both crank up and run? The LS motors are even simpler and more reliable when you ditch the EFI and electronically controlled transmission. It only takes two half inch bolts and two hose clamps to change the fuel pump on one of those classics and you don't have to drop the darn tank to do it. I drive a 50+ year old pre computer car for a reason, its so simple its literally EMP proof. If we got nuked tomorrow I'd be driving after 5 minutes swapping a couple simple electrical components while you'd be fretting about your diagnostic tools being fried in the blast.
I know this is a video from 6years ago. But this is a good example of just picking random parts from a catalog and not matching all engine components and drive train to get a good combination. But hey it’s loud and is lumpy that’s what most guys want.
3.73:1 gear or 4.11:1 , and at least 3000 stall, 27inch tire. It will launch so much better. My wife has a 70 with 383, and mine is a 71 Acadian 396. Been playing with combinations for a few years.
It’s been awhile since this car and I’m have trouble remembering the details but I’m fairly positive it had a 4.56 gear and a 4500 stall. This video is not a good example given that we had just broke cam an engine in, was the first test drive and he was babying the hell outta it.
I have a '73 Nova with a 383 (450 hp) 3.73 posi, 2800-3000 stall and 27" tires and I can't even use first gear at full throttle, nothing but wheelspin. This is with a built turbo 350.
@@Aus78Formula first thing I thought of too. What ass end ratio in it. I run 3.90's in mine, and had them in another car. Tremec 6 speed, two overdrives. get down on it
@@blueridgemountainprepper2166 Really this cam needs at least 13.5:1 to be good. The nova is a pump gas compromise street build with a road race cam 350, that ended up using the next octane up. swap in a drag cam and a super victor with a high stall and gears and you ain walkin anyone did you see 00:25 = 00:28 the only full 3 seconds of 3/4 throttle in this entire video? there are no 60' here from a launch of any kind, just a soft roll on with a short hit of gas pedal one time, except the time before it was visible. The gearing is for highway. This was meant for an LSD and a transmission with more than 2 gears, not a spooL, not for drag. Real easy on valvetrain, this could finish a 24 hour race then go country side driving with no ill effects. Your all out drag car does not have this car's streetability, not even remotely close. This is a super mild street car that runs 12's naturally aspirated and 10's on bottle. Do that with some other combo in a nova that is as cool sounding, performing, as easy on fuel consumption, and drivable without power adders. You don't even know what your seeing by 28 seconds from 26 seconds where it hit 70 mph and is hard on the brakes again. i would love this car with a 4 speed or more as a daily driver.
@@Marshall.Mikers oh man. I hope you have good luck getting it back on the road. Painless wiring could probably help. Of course, if you want to do any body work and paint, now might be a good time, since you'd need to pull at least part of the interior out for wire routing. Don't give up on it, and it will be a nice car when done.
sounds like a zesty glimmerin golden top clockwork spinnin, classic retro elegant road race street cam there. i am using it in my next build, i don't care. :o) looks like 0-60 in 3 sec range
I did a 350 bored .030 over, dished pistons, roller cam (thumper comp cam), performance water pump, fuel pump, dual plane intake edelbrok intake, 600 holley carb, 305 heads with 1.94s and 1.72s and performance springs, aluminum radiator, electric fans, hedman long tube headers and a red clutches th350 with shift kit, what do you think of this set up?
Switch out that dual plane for a single plane, swap that carb to a 750 dp, swap them heads to dart sportsman heads, utradine cam, 4,000 stall converter, if u feel spicy throw some Harland sharp roller rockers in there
It will work fine make sure you check deck height and intake to valve clearance if your quench is terrible and piston is to far in the hole you won’t get any power out of it. Dual plane is good if it’s for the streets since single plane is more for race engines that are WOT most of the time. You should have a 650 at the most but a 600 will work those heads don’t flow enough to warrant anything bigger then a 650
Swap the 600 for a 650... that 350's a thirsty bitch at .30 over, I know most guys ROCK A HOLLEY.. but I always went with a big ass QUADRAJET... REASON BEING unless your full throttle all the time the PRIMARYS are suffice at cruising speed but the SECONDARIES.... STRAIGHT TRASH CANS at FOOT THROUGH THE FLOOR BOARD SPEEDS, LOL.... PLUS, they're easy to rebuild.
@@Tschida2004 THis..650 is the perfect size for a hot st 350 tried them all Your hold up is those 305 heads...save up get something aftermarket it will be night and day DOnt listen to the guys raving about them they are puky, make no power. But will get you by for awhile.
yes you need really good flow heads like AFR 195 or comp cut 180's that turn out to be like 195cc or more, or some general ball park cc pro maxx 'MAXX SERIES' only heads. here is a 327 build with 6" rods 3.25" stroke 4.030" bore 4.060" gasket bore 0.039" compressed gasket thickness 66cc measured heads all sharp edges smoothed on pistons and head chambers slightly worked then milled to the 66cc. -7cc flat top (reverse dome) measured after smoothing of sharp edges on pistons. 331.6 C.I.D. Static compression: 11.098:01 with this cam Dynamic compression is: 8.00504:01. this is the sweet spot for this cam and pump gas. you want 7.5 to 9 dynamic for pump fuels & to have 9 takes a lot of help. hittin 205 PSI with 91 octane AFR 195 aluminum heads.
i got a question for u ..i got a 1990 k5 blazer 700r trans 2000 to 2400 torque converter in it and im thinking about buying this race motor it has 12.5 to 1 sbc 355 030 over with elgin e-1090p solid flat tappet cam with scorpion 1.6 rockers for total lift of 573intake 594 exhust can i use the torque converter i have on this engine,,..i no i got alot of things to change because it is a tbi fuel injection
No way. May sound tempting will be fun for a week but youll slowly realize you put a pig under hood that only sounds good If you cant afford more than a 350...open up the ring gap some, put a mild torque cam in it. good 170180cc head, B and M 144 blower headers, DUI HEI distributor done! It will still sound tuff, but pull like a big block even in 3rd gear. You want as much torque as possible in a heavy truck. It should fit under your stock hood too. Trust me on this! Freind had a 72 4x4 longbed C10...same combo but a 400 Did 4 wheel burnouts, daily drove it as his work truck for over 20 yrs never touched it.
@@scummbagracing4241 Its a great old grind for solid, it does build power ifeel it is more streetable than the more modern solid 'RACE' designs, the pull isn't bad in the stall and when it gets in power band you see it makes speed and gets traction, its a great baseline cam , a classic that still performs, however if your going closer to the race only , strictly you can use a modern Comp Cams Solid or solid roller that can make a little more torque and horsepower at the same time however cylinder pressures will be high with a modern induction system and so will higher octane be in more demand. what this cam really is a streetable race track cam with turns that makes good low end with traction and pulls towards the top in the midrange, it would be great behind a six speed, and limited slip diff. on street. cam wear is still higher as with all solid cams. you need to use an efficient solid roller cam with hydraulic roller lifters so only ground with less of a dip than a street hydraulic roller. they will act like solid roller lifters though and on the dyno. something imay try to do to not adjust valvetrain too often on a daily driver. this solid lifter cam, if you have comp make it can make it out of higher quality material and the specs are not as hard on wear as a completely track only solid cam, as this is older and slightly lazier but wicked for street. a good induction is going to cause supercharger effect because it will over pack the cylinders beyond estimated making it very effective. its a circle track solid cam that slams the midrange -upper
@@7REDDRACO7 Yes the cam specifications show the lift being much lower than a modern power grind, i feel this cam is easier on the valvetrain and keep you at the end of the race and on the street. durations are 259/269 @ O.O5O" lift and .562/.584" lift with a modern solid roller and ramp rates in mind being balanced we can get a lot more lift than that with those duration figures, however it is still something to shake a stick at. This is a great high performance solid cam that i feel is easier on valvetrain as well. You can see it can get the heads to flow if you got camel humps or vorrtecs.
Need at least 18-24 inch collector pipe to scavenge properly, my 427 small block stroker, picked up on the 60 ft. And 2-3 tenths in the 8th. Running stubs, as opposed to open headers.✌️
@@ronniecox109 a little trick we learned on the stubs years and years ago… make them lawn and spray paint them…. Make a pass.… and then chop the stubs off where the paint stopped burning…. Also.… if you’re going to put a cross over tube in,,, even if the burn marks are uneven… attached, the tube at the end of the burn mark
factory block 350 small block chevy. Bored .030" more than the stock factory 4.00" bore making it a 4.O3O" bore size and piston diameter. it is 12.5:1 static compression ratio, not liters.
Dying to know if this is running on pump gas in the clip! The textbooks would say too much dynamic comp for pump on this setup but I'm hearing from some people who say otherwise and run tight lobe separation without even checking their DCR lol
@@fsca72 Thank you - I've got an 11.9:1 static comp 406sbc in progress, would like to have a tighter lobe separation cam for the midrange power but also would like to run on 94. debating how far I should push my luck with DCR