Excellent! I think I forgot to mention in the video that after cleaning, coat your cylinders, mating surfaces, and lifter holes with wheel bearing grease so they won't rust if it sits for some time.
I'm happy to hear you found these helpful, that's exactly why I decided to create these videos. I found a lot of misinformation in online forums and in other videos. I wanted to remove speculation, misconceptions, and demonstrate what Oldsmobile engine building looks like in reality.
What's the name of that temperature sensor you took off on the timing chain cover? Mines had coolant coming out the top and needs replaced. But I didn't know the name
The temperature sending unit is located on the intake manifold, you see it in this video just to the right of the thermostat opening. In the video the oil sending unit is located on the shelf above the the timing cover and below the intake manifold. Speaking of engines pre 1973, the temperature sender for cars with a temp gauge is Standard (manufacturers name is "Standard") TS-6, for cars with the light it's a TS-11. The part numbers are vehicle specific but the TS-11 is the most common. For the oil sender, If your car has gauges the Standard part number is PS-157, for the oil light without gauges it's PS-12X. You can use those part numbers to cross reference delco or other manufacturers.
When re installing the oil fill tube and oil dip stick tube is a snug fit essential? My 69' 350#555 is having the problem where both are loose; Suggestions? New parts or rtv?
Both should fit snug. I don't suggest ever using RTV on an engine, (few exceptions). Both parts are pretty inexpensive. You can get a properly numbered oil fill tube on ebay for around $30 from "inline tube". Sometimes you need to tap both of these parts in place, carefully with something non destructive like a dead blow or rubber hammer. If the dipstick tube is loose when inserted to the collar then it should be replaced. I hope this helps, and thank you for dropping a comment!
Great question! I know 350's from 1968 to 1972 had cylinder head combustion areas from 68cc to 70cc. The 350's from 1973 and up had 79-80cc combustion areas, though some 1977 heads had 75cc. I know some of the early high performance 350's had lesser dished pistons, but I haven't verified dish variance on non-performance variants over the years. Thank you for the question, and I will have to start paying more attention to dish volume on 350 pistons I come across.
This is indeed what they call a "Rocket 350". The oil fill tube, the front timing cover top, block, and the heads will have codes on them to help decipher the year and possibly what it came out of.
I have never built a windowed Olds with more than 9.5:1 compression. I used restrictors, a high volume/pressure oil pump, shallow dished pistons, a nodular crankshaft, ARP bolts with a set of main cap straps to add strength. There is a great article on an Oldsmobile 307 that Joe Mondello built, if you can find it, there may be some helpful info if he used higher compression.
Oldsmobile uses 2 different bolt sizes, older engines use 7/16" and newer engines use 1/2" bolts. I believe the 7/16 bolts have a head size of 11/16 and I don't recall what the newer 1/2" bolts have for a head size. I will check and see if I have an old set laying around and update this if I find some.
Speaking of a 72 Cutlass 350 Rocket , I was wondering if anyone knows how to get a seized distributor out of the block 😅 the outer shaft is broke off from the engine block & there is no force I can generate enough to pull it all out & I definitely don’t want to pull the motor 😅 any suggestions would be greatly appreciated 🙏🏻
Sounds like a possibility that bit of Aluminum oxide buildup made the housing seize, from sitting. My go to for seized parts is soaking for two to three 24 hour applications of PB Blaster (NOT WD40). Heat the cast iron parts with a torch, careful with aluminum parts, then try extraction.
