Repowering a 1972 Troy Bilt Horse. Original motor was a Tecumseh HH60. New motor came from Harbor Freight. Please email if you have any questions or concerns. avgguy@bigguyreviews.com Like us and sign up if you find us useful.
Very helpful video especially the comments, thanks. I’ll be putting one on dads old 77 Horse1 TB from Garden Way. Recently I bought a genuine brass Troy Bilt Horse belt buckle on EBay. Now I’ll have Tiller Swagger🫑🤠🌾
Great video. Thank you! Just completed this myself today. Very straightforward, though I did have to flatten the round bar on the front cage in order to clear the air filter cover.
I just did this swap on a 1978 tiller. Shaft bolt is same diameter as engine mount bolt. Shaft bolt is a 5/16 24 1 1/2 length. You can download the manual from harbor freight for this engine. Thanks for the video
+rwes2940 tx for clarifying the bolt size. That will definitely help some of our other viewers. Congratulations on your repower. did it go smoothly for you?
Seeing how straight forward the swap was I'm gonna buy the motor tonight! I don't have a HF in my area but they only want 7 dollar shipping. With a coupon it tilts the scale at around 107 coconuts to my shop. The money saved from not purchasing a Honda will be new tines and shaft seals. Good vid
That all sounds like a really great plan to me. Good luck with everything and please don’t hesitate to reach out if you have any questions along the way. I’d be happy to help
The predators are a excellent swap. You only have to disconnect the low oil shut off wire, or it will keep shutting off because of the tiller angle when in use.
Great video, my original HH60 lost an adjustment screw on the carb this last go round in the garden, can't find the screw in garden or for sale and the carb is still $100! Found this engine at local HF for about $120 and thought about the swap... turns out I'm not the first. Good to know it should go smooth.
I have an old HH60 that self destructed. Getting ready to install the Predator. If there are any parts you need, I'd be glad to send them to you. I think the carb is the original.
Wished someone would show the belt process on how to get them put on. I'm having trouble getting the belts back on, and managed to mess the reverse disc up in the process and still dont have the belts on. Other than that , great video.
awesome video...i recently bought this tiller with the hh60 and the connecting rod snapped within days of buying the tiller. so instead of messing around with replacing the connecting rod, i ran across the 212cc engine and was wanting to know if it would work with little adjustment. looking forward to getting it running again! thank you for sharing.
+Chris Gilbert Hey Chris Congrats on ur purchase. Sorry abt the connecting rod. How'd you determine that was the failure point? As for another motor...what 212cc engine are u referring to?
+Big Guy Reviews i was referring to the 212cc predator engine from harbor freight. The initial issue was the engine died abruptly and then would not even try to start. the flywheel would just spin freely after pulling the rip cord. After testing for spark, air, fuel, and cleaning the carb, i ended up removing the block head and found that the piston was not responding ( i previously had mistaken the intake valve for the piston when i had taken off the carb - i am not too keen on the internals of an engine block) also if i pulled the cord while it was in gear it would still try to move forward or backward.
+Big Guy Reviews Also if i pushed down on the piston and rotated the fly wheel, what i assume would be the connecting rod was pushing up against or getting stuck on the piston every rotation.
Okay, I have a 1972 Coast to Coast PlowHorse 800 8 h.p. front tine tiller! Push! 20" wide, 10" deep! A real Tim the tool man Taylor tiller! I've never saw a man, work that tiller, like that tiller, can work a man! Hit me up for photos! It's a beast!
What did you do wiht the HH60 motor? I have an HH60 smoking with 12 volt electric start, I looking for an old engine. My wife can't start the pull rope. Even the Predator I have one on the log splitter.
My Tecumseh HH60 needed a new carb a week ago so I got a new one at my local outdoor equipment dealer for $35. It ran like a champ until it started fogging mosquitoes because of a broken oil ring. I removed the old girl and am buying a Predator replacement tomorrow but was disappointed with this video. I was hoping to see more info on the best way to install the new engine with the least amount of profanity and bloody knuckles. FYI, I am not going to spend $250-300 bucks on a good engine for something I use once a year. A Chinese knockoff of a Honda engine is cool with me.
Everything works great. No issues at all other than the shaft bolt size. But that was easily fixed by purchasing a new one. Reverse works great. I'm pleased with this outcome. I hope it goes well for you if you choose to do it.
I see a lot of people fooling around with the throttle cable. I have the same engine. The engine has a throttle lever on it. With an air cooled engine you want full throttle to keep the engine cool. Running it less than full throttle is not good.You have to go to the front to start it. Push the lever over to full throttle after you start the engine. When done tilling walk around and throttle down for a few seconds then shut off. Simple, no need for the original lever.
j jones I agree. I put a brand new kohler 7hp on mine last fall. Engine runs like a dream. I'm removing my throttle cable and lever from the handle. I agree with you start it let it warm up go full throttle, when done walk around front and lower the throttle and shut her off.
Down in the comments this question was answered a while back. That reply says 5/16 24. I don’t remember personally but I’m betting that person has the right answer for ya.
+Robb W The Econo Horse has a 2nd PTO shaft to run the reverse gear on the tiller. So you would have to find a 2 shaft engine to do that. You could I guess use this engine but you will not have reverse.
Robb W well that's good if it works it works, the replacement best price I found is $400 having reverse isn't worth that much for sure. I repowered my Horse with this engine I just need to make a few small adjustment but this is by far the easiest engine project I have ever done.
how to disable the low oil shutoff on a 6.5 kohler that comes on the cub cadet 65xx tiller? the engine looks just like a predator.. will not run, use only no ethanal , carb is clean, and it started running with a drastic lope, as if running out of fuel, then shuts off and usually wont start again til much later... ran fine for 1.5 years, but for 6 months, have this shutdown problem. Already replaced the coil/sparkplug and it's still doing it.. wont run for 5 minutes w/o going into shutdown mode... sound like the low oil sensor malfuntioning.. where is the ?wire to disable that ? tks.
+Randy Robertson I think I know what you mean now. Loosen the bolt on the side of the sleeve and then use a screwdriver or a center punch and a mallet to tap those rods down and out the bottom of the sleeve. The rods themselves have a groove partway down that when they are inserted in the sleeve and the bolt is tightened up it fits in that groove and stops the rod from working it's way out. But your question was which direction and The answer is down
Big Guy Reviews www.amazon.com/TECUMSEH-TROY-HORSE-TILLERS-CARBURETOR/dp/B00KI11E5G/ref=asc_df_B00KI11E5G/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=241967373029&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=10184467840950944770&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9005815&hvtargid=pla-469184689194&psc=1# less than 15
Yep. That would’ve been great had it fit my tiller. But my choke, throttle and governor linkages are all very diff. The carb for mine is over the price of a new engine. Trust me - for 15 bux I would’ve saved the money and the time of repair if it was as easy as the carb u sent. But thanx. I do appreciate u trying to help
They’re not the same. The carb u sent will indeed fit my machine. But it’s not the carb design which came on the tiller. The one u sent turns the choke into a manual lever actuated at the carb. The choke on my tiller today is engaged by the throttle lever on the handle bar of the tiller. That’s how mine came originally. At the time of this video they were over 120 dollars. I found one today one online for 95. For all those reading this thread -not all hh60s had the same carb design. I believe The link to the carb sent by Scott will work on any hh60. But if ur model has the choke set by the throttle handle - the model in the link is NOT for u.
To adjust the belt tension: Put the machine in neutral, slip the belt off 1 pulley, then adjust that 9/16 BOLT and tap the adjustment wedge up or down. The manual is the most hideous piece of toilet paper I have ever read. Only second in hideousness to the design of the Troy-Bilt Horse itself. God help you if you ever let those those big guide pins rust up. I'm repairing a neighbor's tiller in prep for selling the POS, and his first mistake was bending that spring that holds it in gear, so it wouldn't stay in gear, so he had to hold the FORWARD stick down, while tilling, and bent the krap out of it, as well as earning a serious backache. I replaced the spring, and it stays in gear now, but I still absolutely detest that thing. And you better not attempt to use it with 1 hand like they advertise. Useless scrap metal.
First of all yes. I did replace it. An entire engine cost less than the carb. And the original engine was a bitch to start - and it was 40 years old. Second of all I kept the Tecumseh engine. And third of all - it’s mine. So I get to do what I want with it. You see it as a waste. I see it as a tiller that’s starts the first time I pull it. It’s quieter and Uses less gas and it’s reliable.
Btw I rebuilt the carb several times before I replaced the motor. The last time I was doing it I slipped and damaged the carb beyond repair. So it needed a full new carb. Not a rebuild. That new carb cost more than a new motor.
+Travis Hoeffel had to do a little rerouting. You have to go over the motor and insert the throttle cable from the front towards the back of the motor. Does that help?
