I have the same car but it's maroon or as Lotus calls it, regency red. 4218R. When I removed the servos, it stopped like a truck so I went to a master cylinder with a smaller bore. As I recall, it was a Spitfire master cylinder. Can't believe your brakes work well with the same size bore. Those wheels look beautiful. How/where did you get the refinished?
😎 Mine is 4139R….not much before yours! I never drove this car with servos, so nothing to compare it with. It probably stopped easier with them, but I don’t mind it without them. The wheels…..I just stripped the old clear coat off the chrome and polished the chrome with Mothers wheel polish and repainted the inserts with hammered black rust oleum.👍
@@Jimbos_garage I wonder if the P.O. changed the master cylinder because when I drove mine without servos, it was really really difficult to put enough pressure on the pedal to make the car come to a stop. Not to be sexist, but my wife could never stop the car. I have an Elan that never came with servos and it's very easy to stop. One problem I had when I bought the car in 1988 was that it was very hard to start. I traced the problem down to the funky ballast resistor that I thought came with the car from the factory. Rather than being a resistance "spring" mounted on a porcelain base, it was a disc the size of a quarter mounted directly to one side of the coil. The problem went away when I ditched it and installed a conventional porcelain ballast resistor. Which one does your car have? Great job on the wheels. They look like they've been done professionally.
@@frankhoward7645 The MC looks original 🤷♂️. My car has the original rectangular porcelain ballast resistor. The wheels aren’t perfect ,but turned out great for a driver👍
@@Jimbos_garage So apparently, a P.O. had installed that weird ballast resistor. Thanks for clearing up that mystery. Here's a practical modification you might want to consider. The hood prop was designed for right hand steering cars. In order to use it, you get out, walk around the car, open the hood, and use the prop. The prop is too short and the hood is weak, so when propped up, it droops down. I purchased a piece of solid rod just like the hood prop but at the same time I was making the necessary bends, I also made sure that it was longer than the original. I drilled a hole (for the base of the prop) in the top left of the "firewall" and cut the rod so it would fit diagonally ending at the bottom right of the firewall making sure that it cleared the hole for the blower. Had to drill another hole for the clip that holds it in place. Finally, I held the hood absolutely vertical, marked where the end of the prop rod would end up, and drilled another hole in the edge of the hood. Now when I take it to shows, I don't have to walk around the car to open the hood and I can display the car with the hood completely vertical thus no droop. Something to think about.
@@Jimbos_garage Yep! Webers or Dellortos. I had a +2S 130 with the same engine. I fitted electronic ignition and weekends were spent balancing the carbs to perfection. Came very close to buying a Europa before I bought the plus 2 but bailed out after discovering chassis crash damage.
