Great video. Love how you get straight to the point and keep it moving. You don't get hung up on the little stuff like not having a specific tool etc. - and no fluff. Thank you
Just doing the same job on 1971 85hp Johnson. Thanks for posting. It's been about 30 years since I've rebuilt a carb. I think the line going from the fuel pump to the crank case is the source of positive an negative pressure that runs the pump...pretty sure these were never engineered with efficiency and emissions in mind! But that old engine still starts with the first crank. Had to rebuild the transom and all stringers in boat, so thought I'd rebuild the carbs this winter because I think idle jets are worn (original carb, never rebuilt).
Hi Brandon, I have the exact motor & have done everything you have done. The only difference is is when cleaning my choke solenoid it has a spring in it between the solenoid piston & the solenoid itself. I checked my 74 evinrude solenoid (older 3 wire) & it also has a spring. I know it's an older video but I thought it would help by posting my findings. Both choke solenoids work as they should, no sticking. The motor runs great after doing exactly what you did.
Thanks Brandon. I recently bought my first boat and it's got a 15hp 76 Evinrude. I just post a video with it, I'm impressed by the condition of the engine and how it runs still. Watching your videos and trying to learn more about carbs, mine idles a little weird but runs well-
I got a 79 100hp and is leaking gas, looks like it builds up in the breather cover from the looks.. does that just mean the needles getting stuck and overflowing/ overfilling the carbs? Ive ran the motor with no issues for years but always had the fuel leak and tired if the gas headache and risking a mid lake fire.. it has started to get bad enough that when you cut it off you can see the gas mix run down the outside of the lower unit from pooling up in the motor case so much.. like i said though runs fine. Idles smooth at 800 and high throttle it pushes me about 50mph on my ole dynatrak.. hoping replacing everything in the carbs and gaskets will stop the gas leak.. gotta get it all ship shape to sell it to pay for my funeral. A quick reply would be awesome as i got to get everything done before my strength goes. They stopped my radiation other day so guess im pretty ate up inside.. Ps. Spend half of life learning so the other half can be spent teaching. Thoughts die but words can live on...
Im still here! So those prayers helped.. minus half a stomach, colon and worst part is they took my left nut.. that crap will make you walk funny for a while.. never sold the boat either, couldnt find a buyer but things still leaking gas..
Excellent video. I am working on a 85hp Johnson. Looks very similar to this one. I have never worked on an engine with a carb. I am getting the manual for it soon. Mine runs then revs up really high at idle. I am noticing there is a lot of fuel in the intake area just before the butterfly’s. I noticed this when I took the intake cover off. Floats don’t make sense to me right now because what if the engine is not level, like the trim is not flat, wouldn’t it not be working properly? I think something is going on with my floats because this seems to be the only thing controlling fuel delivery. As for the measurements of the float travel the important part would be at the closing point. Need to make sure that is closing at flat position. The other direction seem to not matter to much as long as it gets full travel to bottom of the bowl. Would this be correct? Thanks for making these vids.
Hey those old stories you heard about carb cleaner were totally true... A little 175 psi compressed air works wonders... It's called a "needle & seat"... Do you really wanna run ethanol in your boat engine...? They are called Corbin clamps...and Corbin clam pliers... Just spray the gaskets with Permatex copper coat...
I have a 115 hp crossflow V4. 4200rpms it would act like it ran out of gas. 4000 rmps runs perfect all day. I replaced and tightened all the lines up. Replaced all coils with oem. The vro is deleted. Now will run great till 4200rpms. 4300 it hits a wall and not as smooth sounding. What do you think? Fuel pump? High speed jets?
Brandon, When I went to your site to buy a Carb Float Gage, my computer gave me a warning saying that the site was a potential security risk. Is there any other way I can still buy one of your gages without risking bringing harm to my computer? Thank You.
It's saying that because I didn't buy a SSL certificate; as I don't handle the credit card processing, or payment at all (PayPal does), this would have been a waste. I can't get more secure than paypal.
Thank you for the info. I'm new to boats . have a 1978 115 evenrude hard start cold have to idle up when going into neutral even warm . are all the adjustments done in the linkage? Iv set carbs on old VW bugs and dirt bikes . I don't see u set any air fuel stuff any info would be much appreciated thank you for your content
Also choke solenoid inop so ill surely try my power probe on it before and after the rebuild u just showed. But even manual choke still hard start ether only
you won't see any air-fuel needles because, and this is the best part: nothing to adjust with FIXED jets! So really just make sure they are absolutely clean and you are good to go.
I know this is a old video. I got the same motor this is my first boat when I tried to clean the carbs the first time I had the floats bent to far not I got them measured out the boat won't even start. Any suggestions?
I have a 1979 100hp johnson javelin. It runs pretty bad at low speeds on a load but really good at fast speeds on a load. How can i make it run better at low speeds?
Do you know what part numbers the rebuild kit was. Have exact motor and fuel line and carbs all clogged. Also where did you order from if you remember. Thanks Shop wanted over $650 to do the work.
When you took apart the first carb there was no hanger for your float pin. You replaced it WITH the hanger. Does this matter? Mine is bogging and I’m thinking it’s becuase the pin is getting stuck becuase it doesn’t have a hanger. Could I be correct? Was this why you put a hanger in???
So, Years ago I had a 1984 Honda ATC 200x. The float worked, but the needle got stuck up there all the time. When the thing wouldn't start, or would start, then die after using the gas in the float bowl, I would find a rock and tap on the carb, then I was good to go! Years later, I was helping a friend move some stuff around a yard, and there was a Ford 9N tractor there for us to use, which didn't run because of a carburetor problem. Once again a rock was used to remedy this. So, do I believe that happens, YES! New kits come with the little arm to pull the needle down and I love it. Keep in mind, the engines I reference were gravity fed. Out motors use a fuel pump, and thus have pressure to push the float down. If you're ever stuck somewhere, you would be surprised how handy a rock is. A rock is just natures hammer.
Awesome channel!!!....I recently bought a 1966 Rivers with an 80hp Johnson Seahorse previous owner said just needed to be fined tuned. I really don't know anything about boats but couldn't pass up the deal was wondering if you've worked on this type of motor before?
1966 80 Hp. I'm not that familiar with them - but you should be able to get a manual pretty cheap. But, you might want to look into a newer motor with more available parts.
@@dougfleming8816 Most carburetor kits have the new plugs and you just put them in place where the old one was in tap them in with a soft metal or wood punch. When you said it in place it’s convex like a little button and then when you tap it down in the middle it’s concave and it seals tight metal to metal. I’ve been extremely sick with Covid and not able to reply to anything for sometime so sorry for the delay
Brandon's Garage hey I was curious if you could help with som wiring questions I need to know what color wire does goin to the ignition switch. Rats chewed up the wires pretty good. It has a dash mounted ignition switch
that carb cleaner is nasty stuff. i recommend a cheap ultrasonic cleaner with simple green HD (not regular as it can be corrosive). cleans the carb in 20-30 minutes way better than just a soak, and you won't risk getting lymphoma lol.
Well, talking to old timers they would say the carburetor would get clean when it came in contact with the fumes from the 'old stuff'. You dare not let it soak. Even the factory manuals mention this. This modern junk, naw.
@@BrandonsGarage Yea i'm sure some of that stuff was bad. I guess they way the factory wants you to do it is with alcohol and a syringe. never tried that either.
