Really nice snag! Seriously a good looking set of wheels on it, and I don't know that I'd change much more anything about it! Really cool! Thanks for sharing!
Thanks, I like how it looks and want to keep the rustic look. I would like to find some plain steel wheels for it I stead of the Chevy rally wheels. Someday.
Our first Willys Jeep was 1951 with the navy sheld my father was good hunter parthner our 2nd was 1965 jeep wagoneer 3thrd was 1969 jeep pickup k20 we love Willys Jeep since 1941 my father was born in 1908 he lived 1 & 2 world wars
My brother has a 78 j10 with 8 inch lift and 35x15.50 15 tsl sx tires and the 360, needs a select-a-trac t case, his is a th 400 GM/amc bell housing auto trans
Nice J-truck! I used 3” K-5 blazer springs up front SOA, and stock 63” Chevy springs in the rear with a shackle flip, flexes really good, on 37s. rides way nicer than the 4” spring under lift I had before.You can see some of the build on my channel. Where are you at in Idaho? I’m up in Spokane area.
I just was looking at this again while I was thinking about lift. I'm in Pocatello area, and just picked up a fs Cherokee. I haven't posted a video up yet but I already got the 35's under it with some fender cutting.
Hey dude how's going. First of all, nice truck, im looking forward to get one of these and dress this baby with 35" shoes but here in Argentina our law says the distance from the bumper to the floor must be 18" max. It's very low compared to usa so Idk if It'll go beyond 18 or not. Would you be up to measure the distance from the rear/front bumper of your truck to the floor? Would be really helpful
So I'm a younger guy, but I've always loved seeing older trucks, being in them. I grew up with and around them. And yesterday after watching Twister for the first time in years I realized that might have been the movie that really solidified my love for vehicles like this, and also explain why I drive like a bat shit insane person.
That's pretty cool. Yeah older trucks have souch character and personality. Twister was one of those movies for me as well. I rember seeing the jeep truck in that movie and just falling in love with it. Probably why I eventually got one.
And it’s got the Idaho plates on it 👌 Just contacted and old friend about one of these. He has a 74 with 34k miles in very nice condition sitting in his garage. I asked him what he wants to do with it and I think I he may be considering some options right now. He’s 70 so Who knows how this will go. Nice pick up
Btw, i see you have idaho plates, i just created a Utah FSJ group on Facebook so we can more easily locate parts and possibly have meets. Most of us live near Salt Lake City. You are more than welcome to join.
I love the 258 just not the one in my other jeep. Lol if I could get it running like a champ I would be perfectly happy with a 258. The 360 in this truck though is pretty good.
Nice. I am looking at a 77 J10. 360 V8. 3 speed manual. 4x4. One thing I will do is get either tougher duty shocks for it. Or look to fit another leaf spring on each axle. So it can match a 3/4 ton rate load.
Remove the kick panel vents and you will most likely find 3 to 6 inches of rotten leaves etc. The pieces of leaves and small sticks etc. always get trapped inside the lower cowl section where the kick panel vents are located. the small drainage areas will get plugged up and cause things to rot out causing all sorts of rust issues. Once you have cleaned out each side and or made repairs to the floor and lower cowl kick panel areas then remove the outer cowl grill near the bottom of the front glass and cut either a piece of screen or small hole hardware cloth to fit the inner section of the cowl grill and reinstall.the grill. This will help keep larger pieces of leaves etc. from being trapped in the future to help minimize future rust and rot issues. This is a common problem for all or most older FSJ's that needs attention if you want to keep your rig. It doesn't matter how solid you repair your floors water always seems to find a way in through the cowl system via the kick panel vents but not having 4 inches of wet rotten mud in the bottom on each side will help .
@@nathanmitton4612 I currently have 3 J trucks and all three had the same issue. I am making rust repairs on the third now new floors, cab corners, etc. I was forced to weld in new metal on the kick panel areas both inside the cab and the outer part that can only be accessed by removing the front fenders. There was around 5 inches of damp muck trapped on either side that helped cause lots of rot issues. Watch Fitzees fabrications on you tube if you need any sheet metal welding and fabrication tips. I have learned plenty just by watching his videos and can now make repairs I never thought possible before. His cut and butt method is very useful and he shows you how to fabricate things with simple tools.
Did it not have locking hubs before? Im pretty sure the auto trans quadratrac was the only ones without locking hubs. Put stock springs back on it and do a spring over axle in the front and shackle flip in the rear. 6 inches of lift with a Cadillac like ride.
I believe that is correct about the hubs. However, they are simple to swap from locking to fulltime, and were likely swapped to fulltime before hand. The front axle might not even be original to this truck, having come out of a mid 1970s QT Jtruck. Some people think getting out to lock the hubs is an inconvenience...however, spinning a non-driving front axle and driveshaft accelerates wear, and sucks gas.
@@nathanmitton4612 okay thanks. I’m on my second cracked tank. Hairline near the top and on a corner. I’m worried it’s a suspension issue and it’s getting smooshed between the bed and straps holding it tight
Yes, I have this rig still but I'm not really interested in swapping it with anything, Thanks though! I kinda have a thing for old government vehicles.
@@nathanmitton4612 I ha a ol M818 5 tom 6x6 that was a toy at one time... down sized to smaller rigs :-) I found a 77 J10 with a dana 60 n dana 44 axles with amc 360 2 barrel but I have to shed the XJ first
@@NetworkDesign3598 sounds like a cool rig. I'm sure you can sell the xj no problem they are starting to get more value as people realize they are pretty good for off-roading and customizing.
They are really cool trucks, can't beat the styling on them. Good luck with your truck and the restoration. Should bring many years of awesome memories.
I should add...aside from the minor suspension bugaboo...this is a really cool J-truck! No one else made trucks like Jeep did. 4WD was designed into the chassis from the beginning...so it doesn't need to have a ton of skid plates hanging down to protect a massive t-case slung 6 inches below the frame rails like Ford, Dodge, and GM all did with their 4WD trucks from that era. It also doesn't run 10* of drive-line angle to accommodate the massive lift. Well, it may now. You might want to check. Or just get used to swapping out U-joints when you feel that queasy vibration in your seat. Your 35" tires still clear, even with only mild lift. Yes, you'll have to get a 3" or 4" rear suspension lift for a J10 to get the ride height and re-center the rear axle. Your relocation plates sound interesting. I don't like "adapters" for load bearing things, but It might work for your needs. You may be able to jump on a couple of the Full Size Jeep Forums and search for used J10 springs, and add some rear blocks, or add-a-laefs...or just get a few extra leaves and rebuild the spring packs. Dont skimp on the spring-pack retention bands when you reassemble them...trust me. If you go "Heathen" and cut the flares off, or trim them, you could likely fit 37" tires...the M715s do easily...but they have bigger axles (Dana60 front, Dana70 rear) and stupid looking Wheel well lips. It's a pile of American Made Truck potential. Have fun and enjoy it!
Yeah I love that Jeep's designed the trucks from the start with 4wd. I does mean they sit lower than say a Chevy or ford under the doors but that also means when you lift it a little you don't end up a mile high. The Comanche was the same way. My Comanche with a 6" lift and 36's is the same height as a stock Toyota truck so I feel way more stable. Again jeep wrote the book on 4wd. Lol
@@nathanmitton4612 Very true. I've gotten really stuck a few times...from lack of clearance under the frame rails...and from no lateral suspension flex. That was in my first 1979 J20 with 30" Big Foot XT tires...which looked like mini Swampers, and stock springs. I found out: Long WB, plus low ride height, plus small tires, plus stiff springs, plus NO LOCKERSplus deep snow...equals "high-centered". That's why I went with bigger tires and on my newer modded J20, I have some lift, a 119" WB, more flex, and a bobbed tail. I don't go out looking to get stuck anymore though. I just enjoy driving the truck.
@@nathanmitton4612 It would be fun to hear it run and maybe see what it is like while driving, from the inside. Enjoy the truck and any video would be great.
Looks good! If you don't mind me. Asking what did you give for it ? I have a 1982 j20 with 42k original miles and no rust on the truck at all ! Original paint that looks great ! Been in the garage its hole life a rare fine ! But I love your j10 they are fun trucks to drive! I put a 3" lift on mine with 20" wheels and 34" tires. I gave 14k for the truck .
@@nathanmitton4612 you got a steal on that ! I have a neighbor down the road that has a j10 ,Yours is much nicer he priced it to me for 2,200 . Have fun with your truck ! You will get alot of thumbs up and looks in your truck !
@@jamesbrede8700 yeah I was watching it for a while. It was originally for sale for $2000 but over the course of a month it slowly dropped to $1000 and when I told the guy I wanted it he said he would give it to me for $900 because I drove an hour to get it, which I didn't think was that far but oh well. I drove it home. Only had to remove the front drive shaft cause the ujoints were so bad and I didn't have lockable hubs yet.
@@nathanmitton4612 my wife and I love to drive our's on the weekends and will be using our's for a fly fishing rig this summer. Have lots of fun with your truck it looks great ! Has great patina!
My father had old 76 j/10 in this color and then later on a 1979 brown gold j/10 I belive it may have been step side I remember tge bed was shorter then the blue one he had.. the blue died and then someone rear/end the gold one.. I prefer the 1970’s- mid 1980’s jeeep compared to the mall crawlers of today...
@@nathanmitton4612 I would like to get one or a CJ-7 Yes they I have character sorry I had to re-edit my comment so I think I lost your like I put J 10 and somehow it wrote J 19 but I think you know what I meant.. I wish they had built this in a retro or even an FC model I’m like just basically giving a wrangler a pick up truck bed... cheap looking.. No character
@@nathanmitton4612 Stale thinking....They should’ve stuck with the 2005 concepts jeep pick up truck look at with the Ford bronco what they did they basically stayed almost completely with the 2004 concept look.. I’m a Ford guy not a dodge guy.. Fords and Jeeps have one thing in common.. Ford help build jeeps Because bantam couldn’t keep up.
J20 rear springs also have a different center bolt location. It looks like your rear axle is riding about an inch too far forward. I noticed this on mine when I tried the same thing. Ultimately i rearranged a set of J10 springs, adding and subtracting leaves until I got the ride I wanted. Then mounted the J20 Dana60 rear axle to them. It rides in the proper place. But the stock J10 rear drive shaft had to be shortened. The Dana60 Pinion's snout is longer than the Dana44. Good luck. Truck looks cool with Chevy Rally wheels and 35s.
@@nathanmitton4612 J20 springs. Jeep. K20 springs are Chevy. I never worked with those. The difference in spring length or centerbolt location I personally noticed on my Jeeps was when using J10 springs off a 119" wheelbase 1977 J10. And trying to swap 1979 J20 springs in their place.It relocated the axle in the wrong position, so the rear tires were not centered in the wheel house. J20s are all 131" wheelbase. Some J10s are also 131" WB. I've never worked on a 131" WB J10 though, so I won't comment there. The difference between long and short wheelbase J-trucks is where on the frame rail the front spring hanger box (for the rear leaf springs) was mounted. 131" WB trucks even have the 119" WB spring mount boss stamped into the frame rails! On the 119" WB trucks the spring box is mounted on a straight section of frame-rail ahead of the wheel-arch in the frame rail, it is parallel with the ground. On the 131" WB trucks the spring mount box is mounted in the forward section of the wheel-arch in the frame rail. It is NOT parralel with the ground. I don't know if this is why the 119" WB and 131" WB springs are different, but I'd assume so for locating the rear axle properly so the rear tires are centered in the rear wheel house.
@@tinkerjeeppublications9823 that is good info. I never did pay attention to where my spring box is located, but I looked and mine is on the flat spot. I actually made some spring center pin relocation plates that bolt onto the leaf spring pack to move it an inch forward or back for the rear but never installed them. So I guess if I get some j10 springs for it I won't need them. But I would have to have lifted j10 springs cause I like the height.
@@tinkerjeeppublications9823 I also have no idea what year the j20 springs came off of but like you said the spring hanger is located differently and all j20's were long bed so the year probably wouldn't matter much
