1982 Honda MB5 Big Update, Start, and Short Ride 

That's just VTEC

Need a red left side cover.:) I think I have you on FB? I'm sorry, I'm still new at this PC action.

+Evan Patterson It's all about how you ride it really, the bike only makes power above 8000rpm so as long as you rev it out before you shift it's fine. My friends who have these have all upgraded the carb to a Mikuni VM20 with different reeds and report snappier acceleration, so that's probably in my future.

AudiophileTubes Ooooh I've learned my lesson riding on ancient rubber, so these tires will get replaced soon with some wider tires, both for better handling and to lessen the chance they'll get caught in streetcar tracks. These ones don't have any cracking or visible dry rot on them so I'm not overly worried about riding them while I'm troubleshooting the last of the issues on this thing. I've actually heard the opposite, that a dead battery acts as a voltage regulator and it's better to ride with a dead battery than no battery at all for a system that was meant to have it. If your headlight is the OG sealed beam you can do a mod where you cut out the back and epoxy in a bulb & holder, or treats actually just started selling a replacement.

Jeremy Lozano Is it all original or does it have any speed upgrade parts on it? Still the OG 12 bing? Was it idling good when you got it and just stopped? So, the more you tighten the idle screw the more it raises the throttle slide to let more air in and the higher your idle goes. You want it set so when the bike is warm and on the stand, it runs fast enough to keep it alive but not so fast it spins the back wheel. There are many factors which can make that sweet spot difficult to find, common ones are air leaks and a dirty carb - I'll be able to advise a little better once I know your setup.

TravisTutorial It has a few upgrades on it, I bought it from a guy that put some work into it. It's a 1976 Puch Maxi-N with a Puch E50 engine, a Dellorto 16.16 SHA Lever Choke, a puch technigas, and I believe he ported it as well. I just got done cleaning out the tank with evapo rust and I'm pretty sure I did a good job with that. I put a new fuel line and fuel filter on and cleaned the carb before trying to start it up again. I also have a new spark plug it in that was gapped to .4mm. After watching a couple of your videos and checking the mopedarmy forum I'm gonna take a look at the jet and order a range from treats. I live in colorado and the bike came from a slightly higher altitude than where i'm from. With all the elevation changes here I figure it might be a good idea to keep the set of jets on me.

Yep buying a range of jets is a good start, that should be a fairly solid setup once it's all working right. I've had sha carbs on other bikes but never on a Puch, to help get you a ballpark you can see what other people are rocking on the tuning spreadsheet if you haven't looked already: www.mopedarmy.com/wiki/Moped_tuners_spreadsheet

TravisTutorial It definitely is a nice set up, I had it up to 45 on flat roads before the rust in the tank made its way to the carb. Wasn't thinking very clearly because I had to tweak the Idle screw to get it running so I thought I needed to tweak it more. Now it's all out of wack when I just needed to clean the tank before. Jets are on the way, I also ordered some gaskets. Unfortunately with this set up I have to take the Intake valve off of the block when I want to take the carb off. I'm thinking that gasket needs to be replaced now and that is probably where I might have an air leak. Here's a link to a couple photos of the gasket and my choke slide. imgur.com/a/umKBR I'll have to check when I get home but I can't tell if there is a shim in the carb port where you connect it to the intake valve. Might have an air leak there if there isn't a shim. Does the choke slide look like it's in a good position? I definitely should have done more homework before adjusting the idle screw. I was just so excited and ready to get on the road and the guy mentioned it sounded like it was idling high and it needed to be adjusted so I only glanced at a few things before working on it. I'll take a look at the tuners spreadsheet, I hadn't found that yet. Really appreciate your videos and your replies!

Jeremy Lozano Justttt want to check, you're running an inline fuel filter between the petcock and carb right? Only because after tank cleaning you're still going to get sediment from the gas pump, it's the little things haha. Is there a reason you can't just loosen the screw on the sha and take the carb off the intake? Did the previous owner cheap out and get the stubby little intake that makes the carb hard to wiggle on and off? Honestly the idle screw is an afterthought for most people, if it's too far out it'll stall, so you just turn it until the motor doesn't stall out anymore. If it's really hard to get right...you probably got airleaks. New gasket would be a good start, if you don't own a torque wrench make sure you're getting the intake bolts tightened evenly, they really don't need a lot of force. All shas should have a white plastic shim where they connect to the intake. This is a two stroke there are no valves :P

$75. Moped Army. All of my bike's are from estate's sales. Bummer about this hobby, there all over 40 YO. DISCLAIMER! I read this on the internet and do not indorece this information.

zM* | SlaskerHD Looked up some pictures of that thing and it looks coooooooooool! You Europe dudes got a ton of rad bikes for sure. I'm assuming it's a two stroke, in that case it should be the same principle as any other two stroke - an expansion chamber exhaust, less restricted air filter, and a properly re-jetted carburetor can go a long way! www.mopedarmy.com/wiki/Category:Performance_Tuning

Ok thanks :)

Emil Humble Nice! Those look like a lot of fun