1984 Mercedes 300SD - Part 3 Wood Trim, Door Striker, Seat Back Nets 

Big shout out for this men 👍. If seen a lot of you videos in the past days. And it's really impressive to save almost every big Benz out there 👏

Most of the interior hard plastic is brittle. Most seat-back net frames crack apart and I haven't seen new replacement parts. Also, the plastic trim at the bottom of the interior B pillars cracks. The First Aid plastic covers are now available new (from Turkey) and affordable. Replaced the one in my 1984 300D, though couldn't find which of the colored decals was "correct" for the U.S. Perhaps other plastic parts will have aftermarket replacements soon.

I found a guy on ebay that sells many different book matched burl wood veneer. I use a heatgun to remove the clear finish and vacum bag the burl wood Onto the old pieces. Then lightly stain it and spray 4 coats of high solids Eurathane automotive clear coat. Wet sand with 2000 and polish. Its time consuming but it looks so much better than what M.b put out. But I never did like the look of the zabrano. Looks cheap compared to a nice burl. I am thinking about doing a video on the process.

What is the torque spec for the W126 door striker bolts? You mentioned it at 19:20. Also, your videos are awesome! This is the first place I go for info on how to repair/replace anything on my W126 (1990 300SE).

@woodsandbarclay This wood trim is coated with polyester resin. It is not a laquer. If it was laquered than you would be able to strip it with acetone or a stripper. The only way you can remove this is with a heat gun and right before it starts to bubble you need to use a puddy knife to scrape it off. it actually come off really easily with a heat gun and puddy knife. I recomend that you try using a heat gun on a spare peice of trim just to try it out and you will be amazed with how gorgouse the wood really is. Once I got all the polyester resin off you can actually see the wood grain dance. I used Epifanes Clear Marine Varnish to refinish it to protect the wood from UV light during the summer.

Nitrocellulose lacquer was used up to 1971, after that a 2-part polyester plastic.I used a exterior polyurethane with UV protection.

Very nice job. I saw video before that somebody peals the clear coat buy heat gun. Have you ever tried that? I think it can save a lot of time.

Hii, you are really doing very great work. All my wood trim is burled watnut. Which wood finish will you recommend? Dark Walnut will be fine?

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I need to do this to my door. So you used the original holes with new bolts and moved the striker back 1-2mm.. Did the striker not want to edge back to its original position as you screwed it back?

That looks really great. How hard is it to remove the cracking in the polyurethane?

What did you use to glue the wood on with?