1984 Mercedes 300SD W126 - Idler Arm Bushing Replacement 

Your enthusiasm and humor associated with repairing your Mercedes is a treat to see. Your video shows clearly what you are doing - and your experience and skill make it look easier than I'm sure most of us would find it to be. You are a talented mechanic, sir. Thank you for sharing your knowledge!

great video. Enjoyed watching it 🙂

Great website by the way and I really do appreciate the videos

Yes most definitely with a lift that was very Well done! If only! Thanks for sharing your great knowledge of these Beautiful classics!

Impalaman's Garage I congratulate you for your videos, you have helped me a lot with my w126, keep making videos, greetings from Ecuador

Thanks and good job ! 🙏

I am grateful for what we have learned, and it is true that I benefit from you, and I have learned a lot from you. Thank you very much

You helped me restore my w126 Thank you very much 😀😀

Thank you for your video. I do the same last week on my 1987 420 SEC. 👍😃

Watching various methods of removal on youtube, and doing this task on the ground I was expecting a rough time. Soon as I took the bolt out my bushing just fell out with it. Was so easy 😂

Exelente.... exelente trabajo... saludos amigo

Compared to your oil filter. This is meer Childs play! Great Videos. Great Knowledge and experience! And that Amazing Attitude!

great information on the Mercedes however I have a 71 Cadillac Fleetwood and I would love more information on the 472 engine as well as other advice. Keep up the great videos

That lift you have sure makes a difference. Can you imagine having to do something like that with the car on jackstands? I've done lots of those. I'd go for pulling the transmission to get at the rms. You have a transmission jack, right? If not that, what's next? Like Chauncey Gardener (Peter Sellers) said in 'Being There,' "I like to watch." Lol

Sorry to hear about your rear main seal! Why can't you simply remove the transmission to gain access? I have done it this way several times. Until you can get around to doing it, I would recommend a bottle of AT-205 Reseal. It should at the VERY least slow the leak to a more acceptable rate of loss. For the idler arm, those bushings are almost always worn out. Nice job replacing it, your vehicles seem to be extremely well maintained! To test it for play, just have someone operate the steering wheel back and forth, while you watch carefully. Normally, there is up/down play in the arm as it move back and forth. Nice video!

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drops the trans and get a crank seal repair kit at the same time from rock auto i believe they call them speeded sleeves i have had great luck on m103. rear, front crank, cam seal, trans out put

Thanks for the like. I have a problem with my 71 caddy Fleetwood the defroster won't work in the sense that when I try to direct it to go from floor to defroster it will not turn up into defroster do you have any ideas or suggestions. mind you it is a 1971 caddy Fleetwood with the original front disc brake rotors that's how well maintained the car was before I got it. She needs the usual TLC. the front end was completely professionally rebuilt the transmission was completely professionally rebuilt and the drive shaft was completely rebuilt and balanced.

my mercedes manual states to tighten the idler bush to 120nm, you tightened to 180nm, which is the correct torque please, my lemforder item lasted 500 miles after which it started squeaking and making metallic noises on turning the steering did you tighten when car was on its weight or when on axle stands

In watching the video, is it really necessary to remove the tie rod? Can you remove the idler bushing without removing the tie rod first?

Remove engine to replace rear main seal! And the crankshaft! Foul language has been deleted.

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