Thanks for taking the time to make these videos and share your builds, its always a pleasure to see the words "MonkeyShred has uploaded a video" in my inbox.
Nice up grade I enjoyed seeing the old shimano 600 ultegra equipment. That was my go to components when i raced as a schoolboy in the early 90's. It always stood up to a good thrashing. I was waiting to see matching areo levers but good ones are like rocking horse dung and so expensive, even with worn out hoods. Great build. Thanks
Great result, very nice. Im excited for you, you said this was your first set of 25c tires (tyres). I too once rode only "tough guy" set-ups...tall gearing and 20c-23c, inflated to 100+psi. But now, usually 28c or wider. I think it's faster. That's what the pros are saying too. I'm excited for you, cause your test ride is gonna be awesome. I urge you to experiment with riding lower pressure. You might be surprised. Thanks for the quality show.
Loved this. Had this bike in the 80s. Would have preferred a full resto but like what you’ve done with it. Subbed. Off to check out the Bomber video next😎👍🏻
Great build. Be careful though of that rear quick release skewer and how long it is. I had a modern wheelset on my steel bike a few weeks ago with a QR that was too long for the rear width of the chainstays and whenever I got out of the saddle the rear wheel would slip out. It happened once when I got out of the saddle cycling across an intersection. The rear tyre slammed into the frame and brought the bike to a complete stop with me going over the front of the bars at a fair speed. I swapped the QR for an old Shimano one that was much shorter and allowed the QR to grip to the chainstays correctly and I haven't had a problem since. You might not have the same problem but I just dont want you to have another crash!
Haha yeh hopefully not more crashes. I'm not actually sure why that skewer looks so big as they wheelset has been used in both my DB Apex when it was more of a hybrid and on my old roadie. I have had issues like that before, pulling the wheel out with hence legs but I think that was down to a worn skewer head. I will check it though just to be certain!
Love watching you work. I got a beat up Bianchi, sadly needs new rims, crank, and cassette. I’m finding the only profitable way to do this is to be able to source the parts from other bikes. To buy these id drop over $200, while similar bikes are going for $100 over here. We are a driving culture here in San Diego unfortunately. Key is to find a bike with all good parts that can be cleaned up,greased and reused. My first bike I did went nice like that. The Bianchi not so much. Brilliant work
You're spot on there. I've kept cost on many a build by buying a "donor" bike. I did it with the Al Carter and Coventry Eagle and I've used parts in other builds too. I also buy job lots in case there are some good parts, in fact, I've got 2 MTB builds coming up there are mostly from job lots and selling off the extra parts have pretty much negated any costs.
So refreshing a youngster likes proper bikes , nice build lad ! 600 lovely stuff , personally I like 1st generation 600 , an has to be non aero levers n only ever friction , loooove me friction , but I'm an old git lol ! you usually ride 21mm ? Wow you is brave , I used to ride 18/20 MM great in the dry , but man in the wet it's crazy ! Lol so 23mm for me , it's great ya saving these lovely bikes , n 501 is not bad as soooo many people say it's crap , I disagree 531 what I have but 501 is not far behind in my opinion ! My hack is just tensile steel , it's ok but on look out for 501
Those shimano pedals are actually very good! I have the same ones and so far i've ridden them for 13k km (8k miles), never changed the bearings, but unfortunately the contact plate does wear and is non serviceable for this model
I just bought one of these a 1984 one. Cost me £45. Great bike. I'm going to restore it and keep it as original as possible. Think I'm going to give those tyres a go. theres loads of room for 28s, but I'm not sure they'd sit happy on the original rims. Maybe 25s would sit a bit better.
Lovely bike :) I like it without the sticker on moreso :D Makes me want to share my modern fitted out Equipe (that I wrote about on your facebook). Love these old Raleigh's :D
Sorry if I missed it But please can you tell me what brand is the cassette and what number teeth do you have on each of the 7 sprockets I am desperate to change my original 14-24 to lower the gearing after a 2000km tour into Europe this summer Thanks very much
There's lots of 7 speed cassettes around in larger ratios - mountain bike ratios. SRAM, Shimano, Sunrace or any of the copy brands. Just make sure your derailleur can handle the extra wrap
You should of sprayed the bike components of the bike gold.. Sticken to the traditional original look.. And another thing..ln relation to the handlebars, the drops are typical to what you would see on these modern day slanted down monstrosities trying to pass themselves off. In some absurd way as a racing bike.. They are completely unworkable and dangerous, and you have probably discovered this by now.. Well done in your restoration endeavours anyway.. !
Just a quick question which could be to your advantage. Have you ever heard of a Major Nichols Frame/bike? (Nothing to do with the military style Major BTW!)
Nice looking bike, I like the "basic black" look with the shiny parts. As for the decals not sticking, have you tried a glue primer for stick on parts? www.sailrite.com/3M-Tape-Primer-94-Adhesive-Promoter Not this exact product, I'm sure you can get something like it more local to you, this is just where I know it is... It "kinda" works like contact cement, but doesn't look like contact cement would. It dries clear and thin but helps a great deal with adhesion.
His, great videos, I need some help. I believe I have the very same bike but it has no decals and I can't find a serial number - are you able to get in touch? Many thanks Sean
Better. Getting there. I can just about use it to (for example) push myself up and out of bed with that arm but it's still aching and slightly swollen. The bruises have almost completely gone on my leg but I'm getting shooting pains in certain positions in that area now. That's not fun.
That's a serious beauty, man. Well done and great eye for potential. Maybe I missed it but I don't think you discussed how you converted from 6 speed (i think it was 6 originally and not 7 right?) to 8-10 speed hub and spacing. Did you have to do any cold setting? If so maybe this could have been the source of your mysterious chain line wonkiness.
Thank you! With regards to the 6 speed to 8-10 speed wheels, the difference was 126mm to 130mm. For me, that wasn't enough to warrant any form of cold setting as I could spread the dropouts by hand when inserting the wheel. I might not be right doing it that way but it went in. I've since put a 113mm BB in and that's brought the chainset in to a better position still with plenty of gap between the rings / chainstays. I did measure the chainline after too and it was about 5mm+ out. The problem was only with backpedaling if you were to be in big front and big rear. It didn't like that aggressive cross chain and threw it.
I don't even remember talking about WD40 ha. True. Everyone advertises it as a lubricant BUT the label doesn't strictly say it is. "Frees sticky mechanisms" "Loosen rusted parts" "Cleans and protects" "Drives out moisture" "Stops squeaks" It kind of hints at the properties of a lubricant though and that's why people would assume it is.
Totally agree! Saw the WD40 on the bench and wanted to make a singular point to any in the audience that may not know. Nice upgrade btw! love the Shimano 600 tricolor groupset. So sexy!
Ah rightio! Yeh I use it to soak rusted parts in mainly. I use the Teflon spray if I want to "lube" anything. Shimano 600 tricolor is my favourite set I think.
@@MonkeyShred hi comrade! do you know the square taper type that would of been fitted originally? i make mine to be 114mm long 68mm barrel. does that sound right. I know there are at least two types of square taper...
