Thank you! Very informative. Picking up CV axels for my owned since new '88 PU tomorrow. Will install this weekend with my 15yr old grandson who will do the work and thinks I might give him the truck. We'll see. He's a good kid and has a good chance.
This is so nice.I wish I had this type of father/grandfather to teach me about car repairs when I was young, and even today, but tough luck. Hope the truck is still around and you or the grandson are taking good care of it!
This is a great video and I'm sure this is the proper way to do it, but I just swapped mine and all I had to do was remove the bottom of the shock absorber so it could move out of the way, jack the rotor up a little and pull it out. no removal of the ball joint or brake line or anything
You love your Yoder like I love mine(s). If you level the hub face nuts with the studs you can tap the end to shock the cone washers out. Keeps a guy from putting gouges in things. 🤙
Those bottle jacks are so dangerous. My 1991 4Runner has already fallen off it on 2 occasions on the street while the wheels on the 4r were still on. In 1 occasion I kept my head clear of the 4runner while raising the vehicle to change the tire. In another occasion if fell of the bottle jack while I was lowering the vehicle after checking something under the 4r. I kept my head very close to the ground. Had I not done this, the 4R would have smacked & cracked my skull when it fell off the bottle jack. Both occasion were on the street. I will now buy a light weight Titanium jacks to carry on the 4R but I will be designing a storage box along the tire well inside the vehicle to carry the jack & at least 1 stand. Great video though.
Nice job! All those bolts seemed to come off easily, did you have them off before? My 88’ needs new rotors,but have never removed any nut,bolts in last 30 yrs. scared!
Just a note, not everyone may need to open the manual hub body to remove the snap ring. As mentioned in the video, snap ring removers (plier) might save you some time and the agony of having to deal with those infamous cone washers. And a question for you bro: How long do your CVs last bumping your truck off rocks up the hill? Did you buy aftermarket?
@@toplessrunners Yeah, I got busted boots too. I'm planning on doing the boot extension mod that some do on 3rd gens. You basically cut off and save one end of the old boot and slip the new one over it. That's supposed to eliminate wrinkling and rubbing that leads to torn boots. I'll fill you in on details when I attempt it.
how the hell do you get the nuts undone as ive already got wheel off mine must be near welded on cause ive swung on them and they wont budge,, even tryed the rattle gun still frozen on..
I've had that issue in the past (assuming you're talking about the CV to Diff nuts), best I can tell you is: soak in PB Blaster overnight, lock the hubs in, wrench on the bolt head and torque off with a breaker bar. It's probably worth putting the tire back on to counter the torque.
@@stephenreagin got it thanks with 1 socket and bar on the back and locked against chassis and yes a extension pole on the other but i tell you they were stuck
So I don’t have to remove the bearings/spacers? Also, is there a torque spec for the thin nut under the locking hub? (After you returned the clamp thing)
Without seeing what you're talking about , I can't really say. If it's a minimal clearance problem trying to get the axle to clear the differential, make sure ball joint and shock absorber are disconnected and I'd try pushing down on lower control arm. Good luck
I've bought a few aftermarket CVAs and they did good but 1 snapped when I when trail riding and since then I only buy OEM stuff like that. I know it costs more but its definitely worth it in the long run man
