Thank you so much for uploading this video. I have an 89 that was doing the EXACT same thing. I already had a replacement coil and your video confirmed my theory. Me and my son went right out and changed it out immediately. Took it for a put around town and she was her old self again. Thank you very much. Oh, by the way. I think your video is the only one in the world like that. Probably not but it sure seems like it. Thanks again for sharing your info it really helped.
Check your ground wires that go along the left side of the throttle body. There are three I think. Sometimes they get old and ground to the intake and it causes the comp to shut everything right down. I noticed mine was doing that when it warmed up. And that's because it goes into the open loop system when it gets warm. Which includes those grounds. Either way make sure the wires are in good shape and insulated from heat and no worries.
Thanks for sharing the fix, I had a similar issue. After seeing that you fixed yours with a new coil, I tried a new coil and it fixed my problem as well. I had previously replaced the O2 sensor, the MAP sensor, the ignition module, checked and cleaned the egr valve and Idle Control valve. It was the coil that fix my rough idle on startup problem.
Thought I would add this in, came to find out my idle needed to be adjusted, the idle screw is covered by a steel plug, if you take a drill and drill just even with it enough to get behind it with a chisel you can get in there and adjust it (with a star driver) fixed me right up and runs great
hey mines been sputtering usuall on 'pulls ovr a graded bridge or frm stop lights' im going to change my ignition coil Saturday I hope thts the problem w/mine haaha....glad u updated the info here......(mine was popping through the tbi on acceleration tho).....ill get back to you if mine runs better or not......
This could be from one condition or a combination. Just have to start troubleshooting parts. Your on the right path. Old suburbans as a daily driver are an adventure.
Have to replace that next. I went with the idle air control valve first, definitely helped, but still idles rough, and sometimes dies when shifting into Dr/Rev from P/N.
Did you figure out your problem? I have the same issues and get figure it out. I’m trying to hold off till i give in and take it to the shop. I’ve replaced over 10 parts
@@A_Castro_3 oh man, here’s a list of eeeverything i did, its for sale now. I think the rough idle was mostly caused by intake manifold gasket, which i haven’t changed. Its like every time i changed a sensor, truck got angry that other sensors were old. Biggest thing was when i got a timing light and set the timing. My best source of info was facebook groups, one called OBS Addicts has like 60k people, questions always answered in minutes. Here’s the listing, i changed frikin everything. Check out this item on OfferUp. offerup.co/p2AFRzLWShb
I going big and installing a new distributor , coil , ICM, and crankshaft sensor. The new Delphi distributor comes with a cap,rotor and Hall effect switch in my 1999 Chevrolet 7.4 with160,000 miles.. Just to be sure. Happy trails
I had an old Subaru that needed a coil. It would start to ru bad and all the gauges and dash lights would go crazy. Took a while to figure that one out.
I have the same year truck on a 1500 platform with the same symptoms after replacing the wires, plugs, dist. cap/rotor, & ignition coil. I'm picking up the ecm tomorrow hoping that's the magic peice. Fingers crossed!
Check the EGR on these too. I know this one was the coil, but the EGR is a big offender in stalling. If you have smog testing you can clean or replace it. If you don’t, make a block off plate from thin aluminum or such and run it. It won’t throw a code because it will think it’s working. Bear in mind whatever you make the plate from will have a bearing on how long it lasts. Aluminum can lasts a couple years before it burns out. Coils are harder to test without a good meter, but swapping in a known good one will tell you right away if it’s an issue.
I have a problem with a 95 two-door Chevy Tahoe. 5.7 my truck will idle for 10 to 20 seconds and then stall. I wonder if it's my EGR valve malfunctioning? Try checking yours
+Fernando Hernandez I changed out the Module, Cap,Rotor,Fuel pressure regulator, temp sensor, Throttle position sensor, plugs and wires. all made incremental improvements...but the same issue shown above remains. i will check in to the pick up coil. thanks for the input! my last resort is replacing the entire distributor.
I seem to have to have the same problem you had. I'm curious, before you had it fixed, at a full stop in drive or reverse, if you turned your power steering without hitting the gas would you get a sure stall? My stalling issues seem exactly like yours, just a little less severe when fully stopped in gear. When I am in drive or reverse after the engine is fully warmed up and completely stopped it idles super low but has not stalled on me yet. It's only if I turn the steering in that situation that it will cause a stall. I'm also curious if you noticed any issues other then stalling when in gear on your truck. Mine seems to run perfectly other then the stalling issue.
well, the power steering is belt driven, so it puts load on the engine, so if you are not making power, any little extra bit trying for the available power will stall the system read through the comments, other experience the same issues with a different reason. i can't confirm that the power steering was affected, but i don't see how it could not be. as for stalling in gear, YES! revers or drive it bucked like crazy and stalled out, i had to give it tons of power just to get it moving. Good luck!
Brian Buckley Thanks for the reply! I don't have any bucking issues nor is there any hesitation when starting from a full stop. I'll check those comments out, thanks again.
I replaced my ignition coil and fuel pump recently. the truck - 91 gmc sierra c1500 5.7l - starts and runs fine. it's when i let go of the gas pedal to slow down, it would died. i then would have to put it in neutral and turn the key off and restart. could this be related to the idle module or something else i don't know. i'm getting fuel and spark.
try replacing the Ignition module under the distributor. you may be getting spark, but it may not be strong. also check the injectors that they are a full cone. check idle air control(iac) module and the throttle position sensor(tps).
I have a 77 cheyenne with a 350 in it and it starts and runs fantastic but when I put it in gear it spudders and wants to die unless I give it gas what could this be?
EGR are common as well and will shut engine down. Never seen a coil operate intermittently, but if it worked, great. Engine mounts. Your engine jumps too much at shift.
I'm fighting the same battle with my 95. Replaced Fuel pump, filter, ignition coil, ignition module, distributor pick up coil, cap, rotor, fuel pressure regulator, IAC idle air control, cleaned injectors/rebuilt throttle body and truck still stalls.
holly hell i replace all the distributor new coil new MAP New TPS New AI fuel is good new PCV but it still stalls could it be O2 but it lean out when it warm up
Did you figure it out. My trucks doing the same thing but it’s a 454 tbi. I rebuilt carb and change the distributor completely and changed oaks the engine block temp sensors and idle air and TBS and still the same. Let me know I’m curious
My 95 5.7 starts fine runs fine until it starts warming up and rpm goes down. Then give it gas and falls on face. Im stumped. Thinking fuel related still trying to figure it out.
I'm kinda having the same problem..... I'm "running" from what I was told a 90 Camaro 5.7 TBI with cast heads with about 100k on motor. And a 90s ECU for management from aperently a 90s Chey truck!!..this is what I was told!!! But egr is deleted as well as heater core and all vacuum hoses. I'm Running a t56 transmission as well.....NOW THIS "SWAP" is in my 92 Nissan 240sx. Lol. So everything is okay I guess but power is garbage dyno at 184 hp and 270 ft lbs I'm running a walbro 255 fuel pump for fuel delivery. And my O2 sensor is garbage and just zip tied to the side of fire wall haven't made a bung in my down pipe yet.. but really shouldn't cause it to idle and die. None the less here's the problem. When starting the car/motor I have to constantly keep the revs/rpm at about 1000 rpm.. if not motor wants to "TRY" and run at 400 to 600 rpm and stall/die. Drove it at a DRIFT event a few weeks ago.. and was really honestly trying to blow motor so I can put another 350 in it. But NO GO. Full cast iron motor/heads aperently hard to blow up. Lol But motor/car would still runs fine after beating the ever Living shit out of it. But when coming back around to start line it would want to stall. Same as driving in the street I have to heal/toe= drive with heal on throttle and toe on brake..or vice versa depending on how you drive to keep revs/rpms up. Haven't really had time to track down the problem because I work a lot but this week I picked up a summit/ Holly 650cfm dubble pump carberator!! Probably too small for what I want to do. But I also picked up an elderbrock high performance intake for the carberator going to throw it on the motor with a HEI distributor to gain my damn HP back. but it's still cold here in GA and need a good daily driver so this is gonna be my daily for a bit. And don't want to install carberator/ intake/ HEI just yet because the TBI is more reliable as a daily driver..... But I need to figure out idle/stall issue on the motor before I start driving it about 500+ miles a week for the next few weeks... I know the IACV An TPS could cause these problems I'm having.. but everything it's all okay I've checked resistance and voltage on both and installed new just incase an still same issue. the only thing I might think it could be is that my alternator is only producing about 11 to 12 volts at a low idle "below1500 rpms" and then upon running above 1500 RPM it will do about 13 to 14 volts but that's just my voltmeter that I have inside on the dash so whether or not that's a hundred percent is I don't know... As I said will run.. an run fine but letting off throttle and trying to get it to idle on it's own it just wants to stall and die now I am running a smaller alternator off a John Deere diesel tractor from the 1950s but it's able to produce enough amperage and voltage be able to continue running the motor find the battery has been relocated to the rear of the car using 0 gauge wire... I am running a front plate Mount on the motor and a trans mount only no motor mounts but also having charging issues. Will post video later. Altenator is rewired as a single wire with internal regulator I have grounds from chassis to motor but it's a damn headache. I honestly do not know what stock/standard proper fuel pressure is susposed to be ran on 5.7tbi either. Any help would be greatly appreciated..
So you just changed the coil. Did you do any testing with a volt/ohm meter to definitively say that's the issue. I'm going to change mine out and see if that fixes the problem but for some reason I don't feel like it will. Thanks for the video!
@@cardadbods2007 if you followed and listen to the video i chronicle what i did previously...including replacing the fuel pressure regulator......YES< all i did was take off the coil, and replace it with a brand new coil....everything returned to normal....Read the previous posts, i cover this....
I'm at my wits end with this 93 Chevy Van I'm working on. I have no codes to work from... So guess what, I have to go through all 50 sensors to try to eliminate the stall problem. So far replaced o2 sensor, egr valve, egr solenoid, tps, map sensor, and then finally the ECM. Still no codes... Doing exact same thing.
unfortunately no. i have not given it any time recently. i will comment here when and if a solution presents itself...Please, if you resolve yours before i do, share your result!!!
+Brian Buckley (ZombieRot - Ingress) I replaced fuel filter, fuel pump, distributer cap, rotor, plugs, wires, ignition coil, MAP sensor, coolant temperature control sensor, IAC sensor and the thermostat. It still won't idle without firing out. Today I put new gas and oriley's brand gas treatment and it held a perfect idle for about 3 minutes and then died. I'm lost.
Mahmoud j. The v2500 suburbans use two shocks per side on the front axle, as u noted from the vid showing excessive shock recoil when weight is put on/off leaf springs, most likely it's time for them to be replaced. Uploader I would start with new fuel filter (on pass side inner frame rail, just past the the 4wd transfer case)
No, i have not had time or money to put in to any more troubleshooting. I will get back at it soon, but it now needs a set of 4 tires and i need to replace the wheels to make getting tires cost effective. LOL so much....Never ending. rest assured if i come up with a solution i WILL be putting it here. and same with any of you! PLEASE post solutions as they come up!
ya if you already changed ur spark plugs and gapped them correctly and it stalls check the MAP sensor it looks like a lil black box on the right top side u gotta take the air cleaner housing off to see it I thnk.....my burban (89 4x4 tbi also) kinda trys to stall out if taking off from a stop light but I thnk my trucks gotta bad valve...anyways yea replace tht MAP sensor see if tht doesn't clear up ur prob...
+will cottengim picked up the MAP and the Colant temp sensor. I have already replaced IGN module, cap/rotor , fuel regulator valve, New set of wires.....it happened out of the blue on a trip. I'll update soon.
make sure n change the 'right coolant sensor' these burbans I found out have 2....one is for the gauge only and one is gauge/temp sensor..i changed both on mine..(my gauge wont read still lol).....im kinda thnking its ur MAP sensor unit if its never been changed out...
+Luke Clifton unfortunately no, been told either fuel pump(i still doubt) or the entire ignition. system......no time or money right now to put in to it, sadness.
And this is a V series...... Again Google is your friend. I love how you come here and tell me I'm wrong about the year of my vehicle? Like "Oops, gosh I sure mistook an 87 for a 1991....silly me.
