Here in the UK 2024 we can luckily still buy scruffy NAs for $1,500 and even the BEST stock sell for no more than $6,000 . But a really good one needing no welding is on average no more than $4000, half what you guys have to pay.?
You can still certainly score a rough example with rust and zero maintenance history at that price point, but in general, clean examples fetch a fair bit more. Sure there are examples of someone finding a clean low mileage example in the cheap, but that’s an exception not the rule.
I just drove mine today on a beautiful fall day. Looks exactly like what you are driving. I’m the original owner. My husband bought it for my 30th birthday. No mods except a new top that was shredded in a hail storm about 10 years ago. Paint is original. It still drives like a dream. 115k miles. Even the clutch has never been replaced. I do need to replace the visors, which fell off a few years ago, and were pretty comical anyway. Mine is a base five-speed with just AC, which stops working in intense heat of the South. (We bought it in PA, and was hilariously bad in the snow, but it’s been in hot, humid climate for 26 years.) We didn’t bother getting AC fixed this year, just waited it out. We just had to get new tires for first tire in over 30 years. Got cheapies because we were told all that was available at the small size. We never took great care of it and it’s never been in a garage. But whenever an expensive sports car pulls up next to me, I always think, “I got the better deal.” The maintenance cost has been incredibly low. And it’s been paid off since 1997. I don’t see many on the road anymore, so don’t get the chance to do the headlight hello very often. We know nothing about cars, so this was the perfect car for us. 😄 I am thinking about having some upgrades done, and this is really helpful advice!
Now that is an absolutely amazing Miata story. You will very much enjoy some handling upgrades as time has probably worn down some components. Keep that great little car on the road and definitely keep enjoying it!
Those metallic racing brake pads are annoyingly and obnoxiously squeaky. No stopping performance on the street is worth having to endure the nerve-grinding squeal every time you brake. I suppose on the track it may be worth it, however.
Wow, I think I got a good deal. 91 with 162k. Clean title. Had the timing belt and water pump done. All one color. No dents and rockers were solid. Paid 1500.00. I have replaced all the hoses and rad. Can’t trust 30 yr old parts. Replaced the original shocks and rebuilt the shifter. So maybe in for a total of 2200. Car is a blast to drive
Sounds like a great deal! Hit some of the other maintenance items and ensure the timing belt and water pump are good and you’re all set to really enjoy it with no worries.
Would you consider fender braces, roll bars, frame rails or a hardtop as 'handling mods'? One of the biggest topics I see when it comes to Miatas are chassis roll, vibration, and noise and things that can be done to make them more rigid. Coilovers and sway bars are obvious go-to's, what else would you consider for a better handling Miata? I love to see people still making videos about these things, hope to see more Miata content in the future!
I would certainly consider those items to be more “advanced” handling and chassis dynamics mods. I would start with what I’ve done and graduate to those items afterwards to optimize their impact. There is suck a thing as to o rigid of a street car, but that really comes down to personal taste as well. I documented the entire project on the channel, it was quite an endeavor to get it where it is today.
